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THE 

FASHIONABLE TOUR: 

A GUIDE TO TRA.VELLERS 

VISITING THE 



MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, 
It 



AND THE 



PROVINCES OF CANADA. 



FOURTH EDITION — ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. 



Sarartofia Sjirfnfls: 

PUBLISHED BY G. M. DAVISON ; AND Bl G. & C. & H. 
CARVILL, NEW-YORK. 



MDCCCXXX. 



# 






Mern District of JVew-York. ss. 

3Se ft rBmrmfteretr, That on the twenty first 
day of April, in the fifty fourth year of 
the Independence of the United States of 
America, A. D. 1830, G. M. Davison, of 
the said district, has deposited in this of- 
fice the title of a book, the right whereof 
he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit: 
" The Fashionable Tour : a guide to Travellers visi* 
ing the Middle and Northern States and the Provin es 
of Canada. Fourth edition — enlarged and improved." 
In conformity to the act of the Congress of the Uni- 
ted States, entitled " An act for the encouragement of , 
learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and 
Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies 
during the times therein mentioned ;" and also to the 
act entitled " An act supplementary to an act entitled 
' An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing 
the copies of Maps, Chprts and Books to the authors 
and proprietors of such copies during the times therein 
mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the 
arts of designing, engraving and etching historical and 
other prints." 

R. R. LANSING, 
Clerk of the Di^t. Court qfthe U. States for the 
tN'orthem Dist. of Js^etc-York. 



m 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Introduction, 17 

From Savannah to Charleston. 

Savannah, .«» 19 

Steam-boat route.. ..table of distances, id 

Land route.... table of distances, 20 

Charleston, 21 

Sullivan's Island, 22 

From Charleston to J^eiv-York. 

Route by water.. ..table of distances, 23 

From Charleston to J^Torfolk. 

Table of distances, 24 

Santee river.. ..Georgetown.. ..Wilmington, id 

Nevvbern.... Washington. ...Plymouth, , , 25 

Roanoke river.... Albemarle Sound, id 

Elizabeth City.. ..Dismal Swamp, 26 

Dismal Swamp Canal... .Portsmouth, id 

Norfolk, 27 

From J^orfolk to Washington. 

Table of distances, 28 

From Norfolk to Baltimore. 

Table of distances, 28 

Chesapeake Bay, id 

From J^orfolk to Richmond. 

Table of distances Williamsburgh, 29 

Jamestown 30 



VI ^ INDEX. 

Richmond, 31 

Manchester, 32 

From Richmond to Monticello. 

Monticello Grave of Jefferson, 32 

Frovi Monticello to the Warm Springs. 

Warm Springs Natural Bridge, 34 

From Richmond to Washington City. 

Route and table of distances, 35 

Fredericksburgh.... Mount Vernon, 36 

Alexandria, 37 

Washington city, ,....■ 38 

Georgetown, 41 

Chesapeake and Ohio canal, 43 

From Washington to Baltimore. 

Table of distances, 43 

Baltimore, 44 

Baltimore and Ohio Rail road, 48 

Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail road, 50 

From Baltimore to Philadelphia. 

Stage route.. ..Wilmington, 52 

Steam-boat and Canal route, 53 

Chesapeake and Delaware canal, 54 

City of Delaware Philadelphia, 55 

Internal improvements in Pennsylvania, 61 

Union canal^ id 

Pennsylvania canal, , 63 

Delaware canal, ' 65 

Schuykill canal Lehigh canal, 67 

Coal Mines of Pennsylvania, 68 

From Philadelphia to the Schnjlkill Coal Mines. 

Schuylkill river.. .Manayunk Plymouth Locks, . . 72 

Norristo\vn....Pottptown... Reading.. ..Hamburgh, . * 73 

Schuylkill Water Gap.. .Mount Carbon, 74 



:'A 



INDEX. Vll 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 

Directions, 77 

Mauch Chunk Mauch Chunk Rail road,. 78 

From Mauch Chunk to Easton. 

Lehigh river, 79 

Lehighton, 80 

Lehigh Water Gap Bethlehem, 81 

Easton, 82 

Morris Canal, 83 

Delaware Water Gap Delaware Wind Gap,. . . . 84 

From Easton to J^ew-York, via Schooly*s Mountain. 

Table of distances, 84 

Schooly's Mountain Newark, N. J.. 85 

From Philadelphia to J^ew-York. 

Various routes, 85 

Table of distances.... State of New-Jersey, 87 

Burhngton. ... Bristol. ...Bordentown... Trenton,. ... 88 

Princeton, 89 

New-Brunswick.. ..Perth Amboy, 90 

£lizabethtown....Staten Island, id 

New- York, 91 

Excursions from J^eio-York. 

Passaic Falls.. ..Schooly's Mountain....Long Branch, 1 03 

Hoboken....Weehawk.... Brooklyn, 104 

Manhattan Island, 105 

Hurl Gate, 106 

Discovery of the Hudson, 107 

From J^eW'York to Albany. 

Table of distances 110 

Remarks. ...Steam Boats, &c Ill 

Passage of the Hudson.... Weehawk en, 112 

Palisadoes....Fort Lee....Fort Washington 113 

Tappan Bay....Tarrytown, 114 

Paulding's Monument, 115 

1* 



VJII INDEX. 

Haverstraw Bay ....Highland*, , Il6 

West Point, lis 

Major Andre, 122- 

Pollopel Island, 127 

New- Windsor... .Ncwburgh, 128 

Milton.... Poughkeepsie.... Hyde Park Landing,. . , 129 

Delaware and Hudson Canal.. ..Catskill, 130 

Pine Orchard, 131 

Athens....Hud3on....Coxsackie Landing, 134 

Albany, 135 

Buell's Farm, 139 

Shaker settlement at Niskayujja, 141 

From Albany to Saratoga Spring.i. 

Table of distances, 144 

Mansion of Gen. Van Rensselaer, id 

M'Adamized iload....U. States Arsenal, 145 

Watcrvliet, 146 

Troy, 147 

Lansingburgh.,.. Waterford, 148 

Junction and Cnlioes route.. ..Cohoes Falls, 149 

Van Schaick's Island, 15(J 

Meclianickville..., Dunning Street, 151 

Ballston Spa, 152 

Saratoga Springs, 157 

From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. 

Saratoga Lake, 169 

Bemus' Heights, 1 70 

Freeman's Farm, ISl 

Gen. Frazer, 162 

SchuylervilL', 1S5 

From Schuyleriittc to Lake George. 

Fort Edward, 186 

Sandy Hill. ...Glens' Falls, 187 

Jossup's Falls....Hadley Falls, IHS 

Bloody Pond, 189 

Caldwell. ...Lake George, 1I>0 

Fort Wiliiaui Henry, 191 



INDEX. IJS 

Passage of Lake George, 193 

Ticonderoga, 196 

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS* 

BY STAGE. 

From Saratoga Springs to Utica. 

Stages, 199 

Table of distances... .Stimson's Farm, 200 

Fonda's Bush.. ..Johnstown, id 

Cau£ihnawaga....Fort Plain, 201 

Little Falls, 202 

Petrifactions at Osquake creek.... Herkimer, 205 

Utica, 206 

Stages from Utica, distances, &c 211 

From Utica to Trenton Falls. 
Route and description of the Falls, 210 

Stage Route from Utica to Buffalo. 

New-Hartford, 215 

Manchester.. ..Vernon....Oneida Castle, 216 

Lenox.. ..Quality Hill....Chitteningo, 217 

Manlius, T 218 

Jamesville.... Onondaga Hollow, 219 

Onondaga Hill....MarceIlus, id' 

Skaneateles, 220 

Auburn, 221 

Cayuga.. ..Seneca Falls, 22li 

Waterloo....Geneva, 224 

Seneca Lake, 225 

Canandaigua, 226 

Burning Springs, 227 

East Bloomfield....Lima, 230 

East Avon.... Avon Spring, id 

Caledonia.. ..Le Roy, 2.31 

Batavia, 232 

Buffalo, 233 



X INDEX. 

ERIE CANAL. 

Description of, 233 

Canal Passage,. 236 

Table of distances, 237 

Canal Route from Schenectady to Rochester. 

Schenectady, 239 

Amsterdam....Schoharie Creek, 240 

Caughnawaga.. ..Anthony's Nose, 241 

Canajoharie....Fort Plain, id 

East Canada Creek. ...Mohawk Castle, , id 

Little Falls....Utica....Whitesborough....Oriskany, 242 

Rome, 243 

Oneida Creek. . . Canistota 244 

New Boston.. ..Chitteningo.... Syracuse, id 

Salina, 245 

Oswego Canal... .Geddes, 247 

Nine Mile Creek, id 

Canton.. ..Jordan. ...Weed's Basin, id 

Port Byron.. ..Montezuma, 248 

Clyde.. ..Lyons....Newark, 249 

Palmyra....Fullom's Basin, id 

Great Embankment....Pittsford, id 

Rochester, 250 

Stage Routes from Rochester to Buffalo,. 253 

From Rochester to Carthage Falls. 

Carthage, 254 

Ontario Steam Boat, id 

Canal Route from Rochester to Buffalo. 

Description, 255 

Ogden...Brockport....Holley, id 

Newport.. ..Oak Orchard, id 

Middleport. • .Lockport, 256 

Pendleton... .Tonnewanta Creek, 257 

Niagara River....Buffalo, id 

Western Lakes, 260 



INDEX. XI 

From Buffalo to Jfiagara Falls. 

Stage and Steam-boat routes, 262 

Black Rock....Waterloo, 263 

Chippewa Battle Ground, 264 

Chippewa Village, 265 

Bridgewater, or Lundy's Lane, 266 

Burning Spring.. ..Niagara Falls, 268 

Welland Canal, 275 

From J^iagara Falls to Forts George and JsTiagara. 

Queenston, 277 

Brock's Monument, 273 

Fort George....Newark, 279 

Fort Niagara....Young3town, id 

From Foi't J^iagara to the Falls on the American side. 

Lewiston, 279 

Ridge Road, or Alluvial way, 280 

Tuscarora Village....Devil's Hole, 281 

Whirlpool....Sulphur Spring... .American Fall,. .. . 282 

LAKE ONTARIO. 
Description of, 282 

Route from J^^iagara to Montreal. 

Directions and description, 283 

Table of distances, 284 

Charlotte.. ..Great Sodus Bay....Oswego, id 

Sacket's Harbor,. ..Cape Vincent. ...Morristown, . , 285 

Ogdensburgh.... Rapids of the St. Lawrence, 286 

Gallop Islands, 287 

St. Regis.... Lachine....Montreal, 288 

From Montreal to Q,iiebec. 

Steam-boats, &c 29 1 

William Henry, 292 

Lake St. Peter. ...Three River8....RicheUeu Rapids, 293 

Sillery River. . .Wolfe's Cove...Point Levi... Quebec, 294 

Plains of Abraham, 304 



XU IWDEX. 

Martello Towers....Falls of Montmorenci, 306 

Lorette....Chaudiere Falls, 309 

Return to Montreal, 31 1 

Route from Montreal to the White Mountains,. . , id 

From Montreal to Whitehall. 

Table of distances. ...Chambly....St. Johns, 312 

Description of Lake Champlain....Isle aux Noix,. . 313 

Rouse's Point....Plattsburgh, 314 

Downie's Monument, 315 

Port Kent, 316 

Adffate's Falls... .High Bridge, 317 

Burlington.. ..Split Rock....Crown Point, 318 

Ticonderoga.... Mount Independence, 319 

South and East Bays, id 

Whitehall, 320 

NORTHERN CANAL. 

Description of, 320 

Canal Route from Whitehall to Albany. 

Table of distances....Wood Creek, 321 

Fort Anne....Burgoyne'8 Road, 322 

Fort Anne to Albany, id 

ROUTES TO BOSTON. 

Remarks relating to, 322 

From Saratoga Springs to Boston. 

Table of distances...Schuyler-Ville... Union Village, 323 

Manchester... .Chester....Bellows Falls, 324 

Walpole, 325 

Keene....Groton.... Concord. ...Lexington, 326 

Cambridge....Boston, 328 

From Whitehall to Boston. 

Fairhaven....CaBtleton, 329 

Rutland....Chester to Boston, 330 



INDEX. XIU 

From Burlington to Boston, through Windsor, Vt. 

Table of distances., ..Montpeiier, 331 

Gulf road,...Randolph.... Woodstock 332 

Windsor.. ..Windsor to Boston, id 

From Burlington to Boston, by way of the White J\^oun~ 
tains and Concord, J^. H. 

Table of distances....Hanover (see note,) 333 

White Mountains, 334 

Conway....Fryeburgh, 341 

From Conway to Concord. 

Centre Harbor....Red Mountain, 342 

Squam Lake.. ..Concord, id 

From Concord to Boston. 

Pembroke. ...Hooksett.... Chester, 343 

Londonderry.... Methuen....Andover, 344 

Lowell.. ..Medford.... Boston, id 

From Albany to Boston. 

Stages... .table of distances... .New-Lebanon, 345 

Pittsfield, ^ .-. . . 346 

Natural Bridge. ...Northampton, 347 

Mount Holyoke, 348 

Southampton Lead Mine, 349 

Hadley, 351 

Regicide Judges Whalley and Goffe, 352 

Belchertown.... Ware, 353 

Brookfield... .Leicester, 354 

Worcester.. ..Blackstone Canal, 355 

Boston, 356 

Quincy.... Railway, 363 

Dorchester.. .. Brighton. ..Watertown...Charlestown, 364 

Ursuline Convent, 365 

Breed's Hill, battle of, 366 

Bunker Hill Monument, 369 

Fort Independence.... Nahant, 370 

Fortfl around Boston erected during the revolution, 373 



XIV INDEX. 

From Boston to Portland. 

Table of distances....Lynn.... Salem, 380 

Newburyport.... Portsmouth, 381 

Portland, 382 

From Portland to Q,uebec. 

Remarks relative to the route, 383 

Table of distances.. ..North Yarmouth, 384 

Freeport... Brunswick, id 

Bowdointown....Hallowell, 385 

Augusta... Sidney.. .Waterville, id 

Bloomfield.. ..Norridgework, 386 

Remainder of the route to Quebecj id 

From Portland to Eastport, 

Table of distances, 386 

Bath... .Wiscasset... Newcastle, 387 

Waldoborough....Warren....Thomastown, id 

Camden.. ..Belfast... .Buckstown, 388 

Penobscot... .Castine, id 

Machias....Eastport....Robbinstown, 389 

From Boston to J^eio-YorJc: 
Remarks relating to and directions, 390 

From Boston to Providence. 

Remarks and directions, 390 

Table of distances.. ..Roxbury.... Dorchester, 391 

Dedham.<..Pawtucket, id 

Providence, 392 

From Providence to J^ewport. 

Bristol....Newport, 394 

Return to Providence, 396 

Fort Green.... Mount Hope....Kmg Phihp, 397 

From Providence to J^eto-London. 

Remarks, 400 

CentrevLlie....Stonington, 401 



INDEX. JCV 

New-London, » 402 

Steam-boat and stages from New-London, 404 

From J^ew-London to J^orwich. 

The Thames river, 404 

Mohegan....Trading Cove....Norwich, 405 

Fro7n J^onoich to Hartford. 
Table of distances.. ..East Hartford. ... Hartford,. .. 407 
Steam-boats and stages from Hartford, 410 

From Hartford to J^ew-Haven. 

Table of distances....Wethersfield, . , . ; 411 

Rocky Hill....Middletovvn, 412 

Natural Ice Houses, 413 

Haddam....Saybrook, (note,) id 

New-Haven, 415 

West and East Rocks.. ..Farmington Canal, 418 

From J^eio-Haven to J^ew- York. 
Steam Boats, Stages, and sketch of the route,. . . . 419 

From J^ew -Haven to Litchfield. 

Beacon Mountain, 420 

Watertown....Litchfield, 421 

Mount Tom....Great Pond.... Chalybeate Spring,., id 

Mount Prospect, id 

From Litchfield to Albany, 
Stages and intervening places, 422 

From Litchfield to Hartford. 
Harwinton.... Burlington.... Farmington, 422 

Route up the Valley of the Connecticut River. 

Windsor.... Enfield Canal, 423 

Suffield.... West Springfield, 424 

Springfield, 425 

2 



Xvi INDEX. 

South Hadley Falls, 42G 

Northampton....Hadley....Hatfield, 427 

Muddy Brook, *. id 

Deerfield, 429 

Greenfield, 430 

Turner's Falls, 431 

Vernon.... Guilford....Brattleboro'....Westminster, . . 432 
Walpole.. ..Bellows Falls.... Charlestown, N. H.... 433 

Springfield.. ..Weathersfield, Vt AVindsor, 434 

Hartland.... Hartford, Vt.... Hanover, id 



INTKODUCTION. 



The oppressive heat of summer in the southern sec» 
lions of the United States, and the consequent expo- 
sure to illness, have long induced the wealthy part of 
the population to seek, at that season of the year, the 
more salub^ous cUmate of the north. But the recent 
gigantic internal improvements in the northern and mid- 
dle states, and the developement of new and highly 
interesting natural scenery, together with the increas- 
ed faciUties for travelling, have greatly augmented 
the number of tourists within a short period. The 
rail-roads, canals, coal mines, the Springs, the Falls, 
the Lakes, the fortifications of Quebec, the sublime 
mountain scenery in New- York and New-England, 
with the various attractions presented in the large 
commercial cities, cannot fail of insuring to a traveller 
a rich compensation for the toils incident to a journey. 

This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide 
to travellers visiting these places. Our limits forbid 
that we should indulge in elaborate descriptions or mi- 
nute geographical and statistical details. We have 
therefore confined ourselves to subjects of more imme- 
diate interest to the tourist ; directing him in his course, 
and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most de- 
serve his notice and regard. 

The Tour, it will be perceived, commences at Savan- 
nah, in Georgia, though a rapid glance of the country 
merely is taken until reaching Washington City. The 
travelling- from south to north being more generally by 
water than otherwise, a minute description of the coun- 
try between Savannah and Washington would be unin- 
teresting and unimportant to a great proportion of the 
readers of these pages. We therefore briefly notice 
some of the prominent cities and towns, and pass on to 
those sections embraced within what has been usually 
denominated the Fashionable or Northern Tour. 



PJLATES 

ACCOMPANYING THIS WORK. 

1 . The village of Saratoga Springs. — The view is taken 
when entering the village from the south, with the Con- 
gress spring on the right. The first house on the right 
is Congress Hall ; opposite to which is Union Hall, and 
farther north, on the left, the U. S. Hotel. The Pavil- 
ion is still farther north, on the right, though not seen 
in the engraving. 

2. The place of-Burgoyne's surrender.— li is in the vil- 
lage of Schuyler-Yille, twelve miles east of Saratoga 
Springs. 

3. Hadley Falls. — These are 19 miles north of Sarato- 
ga Springs on the Hudson river. The plate represents 
the bridge extending over the rapids, and also the sur- 
rounding scenery. 

4. Lake George. — The view is from the head of the 
lake, near the ruins of Fort William Henry, with the 
village of Caldwell on the left. 

5. Trenton Falls. — The view is taken below one of 
the principal falls. 

6. tN'iagara Falls. — The view is taken from Goat Isl- 
and, and exhibits the entire curve of the British or horse 
shoe fall, with Forsyth's hotel and other houses on the 
heights of the Canada shore. The drawing was made 
by Mr. Bennett, the author of several very elegant 
views of the Falls, published by Mr. H.McGarey, N. Y. 

7. Q,uebec. — From an original drawing of Edward 
Knight, Esq. The view is taken from neaj" the fortifi- 
cations on the heights at Point Levi. In tlie foreground 
is a small chapel built by the Duke of Richmond ; on 
the left the river St. Lawrence, and on the right the St. 
Charles. On the heights at the left is the signal station 
and fortifications on Cape Diamond. In the centre of the 
heights, and immediately on the right of the forest trees 
in the foreground, is seen the Castle of St. Lewis, with 
the steeple of the Episcopal church in the rear. The 
next steeple on the right is the Roman catholic cathe- 
dral ; in front of which, near the water, is the lower 
town. 

8. State House, Bonton, w'lih. the common in front. 



THE 



FASHIONABLE TOUR. 



Savannah, the principal city in the state of Georgia, 
is located on the south-west bank of the Savannah riv- 
er, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city 
is built on elevated ground, and exhibits a beautiful 
appearance from the water ; its tall spires and other 
public buildings, with the groves of trees planted along 
its streets, giving it an air of peculiar fascination. The 
streets are wdde and regularly laid out, and the build- 
ings, together with the public squares, exhibit much 
taste and elegance. Of the public buildings, the city 
contains a court house, jail, hospital, theatre, exchange, 
a public library, 3 banks, and 10 churches. Savannah 
is by far the most important commercial town in Geor- 
gia, and is the great mart of the cotton planters for an 
extensive and well settled region of country. Steam 
boats ply regularly between Savannah and Charleston, 
distance 110 miles, as follows : 

Miles, Miles. 



Tybee Sound, 12 

Port Republican, 25 

Beaufort, 10 

South Edisto, IS 

B 



North Edisto Sound, 10 

Light House, 25 

Charleston Bar, 3 

Charleston, 7 



20 FROM SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON. 

By land, the distance between the two cities is 118 
miles, as follows : 

Miles. Miles, 



From Savannah to 

Beck's Ferry, on 

the Savannah r. . . . 25 

Fitch's, Echan road, . 19 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotaligo, 6 

Saltketcher Church,. 7 



Thompson's Tavern, 9 
Pompon P. Office,, . . 11 
Jackson Borough, ... 3 

Hick's Tavern, 10 

Green's Tavern, 10 

Ashley River, 8 

Charleston, 6 



On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river, 
which is navigable for steam boats to Augusta, 105 
miles above Savannah, having its rise 150 miles north- 
west of the former place ; 

The Coosauhatchie river, which rises 47 miles north- 
west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- 
saw river, 6 miles south-east ; 

The Cambahee river, which rises 75 miles north-west 
of Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 
miles south-east from that place ; 

The Edisto river, which rises 90 miles north-west of 
Jacksonboro', and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles 
south-east; and 

The ,ishley river, which rises about 40 miles north- 
west of Charleston. 

Tliis route is interspersed with rice and cotton plan- 
tations, and several handsome country seats of the op- 
ulent owners of the soil. In the spring, the whole face 
of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly pic- 
turesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes dried 
and withered during the burning heat of a summer's 
sun. 



CHARLESTON. 21 

CHARLESTON, 

The metropolis of South Carolina, is alike distin- 
guished for the opulence and hospitality of its inhabi- 
tants. On entering the city from the bay, an interest- 
ing prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its 
public edifices are well calculated to give animation to 
the scene. Some of its streets are extremely beautiful, 
and many of the houses are truly elegant. Orange 
trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, 
and peach trees clothed with blossoms, meet the eye of 
the traveller, and united with the climate of the coun- 
try at that time, render Charleston one of the most at- 
tractive cities in the union. The society is refined, in- 
telligent, frank and afiable. 

The city was founded and made the seat of govern- 
ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level 
with the sea, two noble rivers, the Ashley and the 
Cooper, enclosing it on a wide peninsula called the 
Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending 
from the ground to the top, giving to the rooms in each 
story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial 
parts of the town, the houses, which are mostly paint- 
ed white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees 
and shrubbery, giving to them a peculiarly romantic 
and rich appearance. 

The most celebrated edifices of this city, are the Or- 
phan Asylum and the Circular Church. The former 
IS one of the best institutions of the kind in the United 
States. It is highly honorable to the characteristic hu- 
manity and benevolence of the place, and is a happy il- 
lustration of the tone of public feeling. 



85 Sullivan's island. 

Sullivan's Island, which lays at the distance of 7 
miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, is a 
spot consecrated as the theatre of important events 
during the revolution. On this island is Fort Moul- 
trie, rendered glorious by the unyielding desperation 
with which it sustained the attack of the British fleet 
in the war of our independence. The fleet consisted of 
about fifty sail ; and on the first annunciation of its ap- 
proach, lay within six leagues of the island. It was a 
time of a^vfiU and anxious suspense to the garrison in 
the fort, and to the inhabitants of the city. The pub- 
lic mind had become deeply impressed with ideas of En- 
gUsh valor ; and diffident of its own power, looked with 
painful anxiety towards the issue of the coming contest. 

About this period a proclamation reached the shore, 
under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- 
mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of 
pardon to all who would resign their arms and co-ope- 
rate in the re-establishment of loyalty. But the royal 
proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. 
The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets 
of Charleston ; the citizens threw down their imple- 
ments of industry, and grasped their arms in defence 
of their native city. On the 28th of June, 1776, Fori 
Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and 
sloops, and was defended in a manner that would have 
honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. 

During this engagement, the inhabitants stood at 
their respective posts, prepared to meet the advancing 
foe. They had determined to grapple with the enemy 
as he landed, and surrender their Uberty only with their 
lives. But ao mani\illy did the garrison withstand the 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. ^ 

conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- 
ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of 
their rights. 

The influence of this expedition was most auspicious 
to the cause of American liberty. It strengthened the 
trembling hopes and dispersed the fears of the inhabi- 
tants. They had seen the result of this attempt, and 
now felt the triumphant assurance that the sacred 
cause in which they had enlisted would eventually suc- 
ceed. 

The communication between Charleston and New- 
York is rendered frequent by convenient and com- 
modious packets that ply from one place to the other. 
A journey by land, until reaching Norfolk, is tedious 
and uninteresting ; the public inns, except in the large 
towns, are generally poor, and a voyage by water is the 
uniform choice of the fashionable and genteel portion 
of the community. 

The distance by water from Charleston to New- 
York is 670 miles, and the intermediate distances are 
as follows : 



Ofi" Cape Fear, 120 

Cape Look Out, 75 
Cape Hatteras,. 78 
Capes of Virginia, 140 
Cape May,.'^... 120 



MUes. 
Off' Barnegat Inlet,.. 70 

The Bar, 45 

Sandy Hook, 3 

The Nan-ows, 11 

New- York, 8 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK, 

by the coasty 
Is 419 miles, and the intermediate distances are as 
follows : 

b2 



94 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 



Miles. 
By la7id. 

Greenwich, 4 

Wapetan Church,... 15 

Tvveeden Cottons, ... 17 

Santee R., S. Branch, 10 

N. Branch, 2 

Georgetown, 14 

On the Sands, 20 

Varenncs, N. C 13 

Smithville, 26 

Brunswick, 12 

Wihnington, 18 

Hermitage, 6 

S. Washington, 24 

Rhode'Sj £4 



Miles, 

Trenton, 11 

Newbern, 20 

Washington, 35 

Plymouth, 35 

Mouth of Roanoke R. 8 

By steam boat. 
Wade's Point, Albe- 
marle Sound,.... 45 

Elizabeth Ci»y, 17 

By land. 
Pasquotank River,., 12 
N. Carolina state line, 10 

Portsmoutli, 20 

Norfolk, 1 



The Santee, passed on tliis route, is the principal riv- 
er in South Carolina. It is formed by a union of the 
Congaree and Wateree about 25 miles south east of 
Columbia, and falls into the ocean by two mouths 
about 12 miles south cast from where it is crossed. A 
canal, 22 miles long, connects the Santee with Cooper 
river, through which large quantities of produce are 
annually conveyed to Charleston. 

Georgetown the capitol of the district of that name, 
is located on W inyaw bay, near the mouth of the Po- 
dee river, and 13 miles from the ocean. It contains a 
population of between 2 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a 
place of very considerable trade. 

Wilmington, N. C. is the capitol of New-Hanover 
county. It is situate on the north east side of Cape 
Fear river, just below a union of hs branches, to which 
place the river is navigable for vessels. The town con- 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. \lJ 

tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 2 cliurches, 
and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. It is the great- 
est shipping port in tlie state. 

Neweerx is situated on the south side of Neuse riv- 
er, 30 miles from Panilico Sound. It is the largest 
town in North Carolina, c ataining a population of 
nearly 4000 inhabitants. There are in this place a 
court house, jail, theatre, 2 banks and 3 churches. 

Washington is located on the north side of the Pam- 
lico river, and contains a population of about 1200 in- 
habitants. 

Plymouth, the capital of Washington county, is sit- 
uate on the south side of the Iloanoke river, and 5 
miles from Albemarle Sound. 

The Roanoke river rises in the state of Virginia, pur- 
suing a crooked course to Albemarle Sound, into which 
it empties by several channels, 230 miles from its 
source. It is navigable for about 30 miles for vessels 
of consideraljlc burthen, and for boats, 70 miles. The 
banks are fertile and well settled. 

Albemarle Sound is in the north east part of North 
Carolina, on the coast. It extends from east to west 
62 miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles wide. It is con- 
nected with Pamlico Sound by several narrow inlets, 
and with the Chesapeake Bay by a canal through the 
Dismal Swamp. 

A steam boat is taken at the mouth of the Roanoke 
across the Albemarle Sound to 



% FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 

Elizabeth City, the capital of Pasquotank county, 
N. C. The town is located on the bank of the Pas- 
quotank river, which has its source in the Dismal 
Swamp. It contains a court house, jail and 4 church- 
es. From Elizabeth City the road to Norfolk lies on 
the bank of the canal, 23 miles long, cut through the 

Dismal Sioamp. This swamp is a tract of marshy 
land, generally covered with pine, juniper and cypress 
trees. It is 30 miles long from north to south, and 10 
broad. In the centre is Drummond's Pond, 1 5 miles in 
circumference. 

The Canal, which has been completed but a short 
time, already proves of immense advantage to the east- 
ern section of North-Carolina. Formerly their coast- 
ing trade was through the Ockracock inlet, by the tedi- 
ous, hazardous and expensive sea route ; but the canal 
proves an easy, safe and cheap means of conveyance, 
and affords more extensive markets. Near the centre 
of its extreme points is the junction of what is called the 
North West Canal, which is six miles long, and con- 
nects North West River (which empties into Currituck 
Sound in North Carolina) with the main canal, open- 
ing an avenue to market for the vast stores of timber in 
that section suitable for naval purposes, besides the va- 
rious other products of the country. On the main ca- 
nal, the basin at Deep Creek is a beautiful sheet of 
water, half a mile long, and 15 feet above tide water. 
The lockage is 40 feet ; and the locks, which are stone, 
are of the best workmanship. 

Portsmouth is pleasantly located on the south west 
side of Elizabeth river, opposite Norfolk. It contains a 



NOEFOLK. 27 

court-house, jail and 4 churches, and between 3 and 
3000 inhabitanta. 

Norfolk, the commercial capital of Virginia, is situ- 
ated on the east side of Elizabeth river, immediately 
below the junction of its two main branches, and eight 
miles above Hampton roads. The town lies low, and 
is in some places marshy, though the principal streets 
are well paved. Among the public buildings are a the- 
atre, 3 banks, an academy, marine hospital, atheneum, 
and 6 churches. The harbor, which is capacious and 
safe, is defended by several forts. One is on Craney 
island, near the mouth of Elizabeth river. There are 
also fortifications at Hampton roads ; the principal of 
which. Fort Calhoun, is not yet completed. 

The J^avy Yard at Gosport, on the bank of the Eliza- 
beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the at- 
tention of strangers. A superb dock is now in progress 
at this place, similar to that forming at Charlestown, 
near Boston . The length of the bottom, from the inner 
or foremost block, to that which is nearest the gates, is 
to be 206 feet, besides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient 
to hold a small vessel if requisite. The width of the 
dock, at the top, is to be 86 feet. As the tide rises and 
falls but 3 or 4 feet, the water is to be pumped out, when 
necessary, by steam engines. 

From Norfolk to Washington City or Baltimore, the 
routes are usually performed by steam-boats. The in- 
termediate distances are as follows : 



28 



CHESAPEAKE BAY. 



FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON— 195 miles.* 



Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth 
river, 9 

Mouth of James river, 6 
Mouth of York river, 

Old Point Comfort, 20 
New Point Comfort,. . 10 
Rappahannock river, . 15 



FROM NORFOLK TO 

Miles. 
To the mouth of the 
Rappahannock, as 
in the preceding ta- 
ble, 60 

Smith's Point 25 

Outletof Potomac,.. , 10 
Outlet of Patuxent 
river, 18 



Off Outlet St. Mary's 

river, 42 

Off Port Tobacco 38 

Mouth of Potomac riv- 
er, 15 

Mount Vernon 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 

BALTIMORE— 191 miles. 
Miles. 

Cone Point, 5 

Sharp's Island, 15 

Three Sisters, 16 

Annapolis, 10 

Sandy Point, 6 

Mouth of the Pataps- 

co river, 11 

Baltimore,! 15 



The Chesapeake Bay, the principal water communi- 
cation on the foregoing routes, stretches in a direction 
nearly north from the mouth of James river, or Lynha- 
ven Bay, to the mouth of the Susquehannah river, near 
the north line of Maryland. It is 180 miles long, and va- 
ries from 10 to 25 miles in breadth, dividing the states 
of Virginia and Maryland into two parts, called the 
eastern and western shores. It has numerous com- 



* The route is down the Ehzabeth river till it enters 
the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth 
of of the Potomac, which is entered, the boat proceed- 
ing up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alex- 
andria, noticed at pa^cs 36, 37. 

t See page 44. 



FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. 29 

modious harbors, and afibrds a safe navigation. Among 
the waters which flow into it, (commencing north) are 
the Susquehannah, Potomac, Rappahannock, York 
and James Rivers. It has been estimated that the 
Chesapeake Bay, including its minor bays and inlets, 
contains an aggregate of 3600 square miles. 

FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. 

The usual route is by water up the James river ; 
on wliich steam boats are constantly plying between 
the two places. We, however, give the routes by land 
and water, with the intermediate distances : 

By water — 122 miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 



Day's Point, 10 

Hog Island, 16 

Swan's Point, 9 

Chickahomany r. . . . 4 
Fort Powhatan, ..... 21 

Eppe's Island, 17 

Chesterfield, 23 

Richmond, 13 



By land — 110 miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth of Ehzabeth r. 9 
Cross Hampton Roads 

to Hampton, ... 8 
Half-way House,... 11 

York, 10 

Williamsburgh, 12 

Chiswell, 14 

Cumberland, 16 

Chickahomany river, 16 
Richmond, 14 



Williamsburgh, 50 miles from Norfolk, is situated 
between York and James rivers, and was formerly the 
metropolis of the state. Its streets are regularly laid 
out, and many of the buildings are handsome. Wil- 
liam and Mary's College, located in this place, was 
founded in 1691, and was liberally endowed at that 
time by the reigning king and queen of England. It 
has a library of between 3 and 4000 volumes, and a 
valuable philosophical apparatus. 



30 JAMESTOWN. 

Jamestown, between 50 and 60 miles below Rich- 
mond, on the north side of James river, was founded 
in 1608, and was the first English settlement in the 
United States. The scite is a very beautiful one, and 
the settlement itself must have been but a few steps 
from the river. On each side there is a delightful and 
variegated succession of woodlands, meadows, pas- 
tures, and green fields : in front, appears the broad 
expanse of James river, with its multitude of white, 
gliding sails. The opposite hills are picturesque: 
some are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly 
cleared, presenting, in the proper season, patches of 
white, wavy com. To increase the richness of this 
scenery, here and there are distinguished the old and 
elegant mansions of the Virginia planters, Uke points 
of beauty in a fine picture. 

No vestige of Jamestovni is now to be seen, except 
the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and 
fringed to its summit with running ivy. Near by is a 
burying ground with its venerable tombstones, and 
spotted with dark green shrubbery and melancholy 
flowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented place, 
and there is something deeply interesting in contem- 
plating these vestiges of an ag"e gone by. 

In this scene of silence and of sohtude, the rude fore- 
fathers of the hamlet have, for ages, rested. Nothing 
at this day remains but the land they cultivated, and 
the graves in which they repose ; but the places are 
well known, and with increasing years will grow more 
venerable and illustrious. 

The celebrated Pochahontas, (daughter of the Indian 
chief, Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this set- 



RICHMOND. 81 

tkmcnt ; and some of her descendants we now Bving 
in "Virginia. Among the most distinguished, is the 
Hon, John Randolph. His descent is thus given in a 
late Virginia paper : 

" Pochahontas was afterwards in London in compa- 
ny with her husband, whose name was Rolf, an Eng- 
lishman by birth. She was presented to the King and 
Queen, by Lady Delaware and her husband. She was 
present at several masquerades and assemblies, all 
which sights gave her great gratification. Soon after- 
wards, having embarked on board the ship George, 
from London, for Virginia, she fell sick, and died at 
Gravesend. 

" Her young child, Thomas Rolf, was left at Pljrm- 
outh, under the care of Sir Thomas Stukely, who de- 
sired to keep it. Pochahontas died in 1617, aged 23. 
Thomas Rolf, her son, afterwards became a citizen of 
Virginia. He left at his death a daughter, this daugh- 
ter married Col. Robert Boiling, by whom she left an 
only son and five daughters, who were married res- 
pectively to Col. Richard Randolph, Col. John Fleming, 
Dr. William Gay, Mr. Thomas Eldridge, and Mr. James 
Murray. 

"The noble blood of Pochahontas flows in many 
veins ; and the orator of Roanoke boasts his descent 
from the daughter of Powhatan." 

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situated on the 
north bank of James river, directly at its lower falls, 
and at the head of tide water. The town rises in an 
aclivity from the water, and presents a beautiful and 
highly picturesque appearance. A part of the town, 



32 MONTICELLO. 

on what is called Schockoe hill, overlooks the lower 
part ; and from the capitol, which is on the greatest 
eminence, a most delightful prospect is had of the river 
and adjacent country. Besides the capitol, which is a 
handsome edifice, the city contains an elegant court 
house, a state prison, (which cost $135,000) an alms- 
house, 2 markets, a museum, an academy of fine arts, 
a female orphan asylum, 3 banks and 8 churches. At 
the Virginiary armory, which is erected here, are man- 
ufactured between 4 and 5000 muskets and rifles an- 
nually. The population of the city is nearly 30,000. 

Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with 
Richmond by two substantial bridges, and is a flourish- 
ing place. 

Among the many objects of attraction in Virginia, are 
Monticello, the former residence of ex-president Jeffer- 
son, the Warm and Hot Springs, the Natural Bridge, 
and the Berkley Springs. 

From Richmond to Monticello, the distance is 80 miles, 
in a north-westerly direction ; the road passing Gooch- 
land county line, distant 20 miles ; Fluvanna county 
line, 33 ; Gordonsville, 12 ; Milton, on the Rivanna riv- 
er, 12 ; Monticello, 3. 

Monticello, was much resorted to during the hfe 
time of its sage and pliilosopher ; and since his de- 
cease, the consecrated spot of his interment is a place 
of frequent visitation. It is thus described by a late 
traveller : 

"I ascended the winding road which leads from 
Charlottesville to Monticello. The path leads a cir- 



MONTICELLO. 33 

cuitous ascent of about 2 miles up the miniature moun- 
tain, on which stand the mansion, the farm, and the 
grave of Jefferson. On entering the gate which opens 
into the enclosure, numerous paths diverge in various 
directions, winding through beautiful groves to the 
summit of the hill. From the peak on which the house 
stands, a grand and nearly illuminated view opens, of 
the thickly wooded hills and fertile vallies, which 
stretch out on either side. The University, with its 
dome, porticoes, and colonades, looks like a fair city in 
the plain j Charlottesville seems to be directly beneath. 
No spot can be imagined as combining greater advan- 
tages of grandeur, healthfulness .and seclusion. The 
house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns 
support a portico, which extends from the wings, and 
into it the front door opens. The apartments are neat- 
ly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, por- 
traits, and natural curiosities. The grounds and out 
houses have been neglected ; Mr. Jefferson's attention 
being absorbed from such personal concerns, by the 
cares attendant on the superintendance of the Univer- 
sity, which, when in health, he visited daily since its 
erection commenced. 

" At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, 
shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, sur- 
rounded by a low unmortered stone wall, which he en- 
ters by a neat wooden gate. This is the family burial 
ground, containing 10 or 15 graves, none of them 
marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by 
any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetry, is 
the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. When 
I saw it, the vault was just arched, and in readiness for 



34 NATURAL BRIDGE. 

the plain stone which is to cover it. May it ever con- 
tinue like Washington's, without any adventitious at- 
tractions or conspicuousness ; for, when we or our pos- 
terity need any other momento of our debt of honor to 
those names, than their simple inscription on paper, 
wood or stone, gorgeous tombs would be a mockery to 
their memories. When gratitude shall cease to con- 
secrate their remembrance in the hearts of our citi- 
zens, no cenotaph will inspire the reverence we owe to 
them." 

From MoJiticello to the Warm Springs, is 91 miles, in a 
westerly direction, passing through Chariottesville 2 
miles, Rockfish Gap 24, Waynesboro' 2, Staunton 12, 
Cloverdale 28, Green Valley 10 ; from whence to the 
Warm Springs is 13 miles. The temperature of these 
springs is about 96'^, and sufficient water issues from 
them to turn a mill. They are used for batliing, and 
are esteemed valuable in rheumatic complaints. 

The Bath or Hot Spring is 5 miles farther. The 
stream is small ; but the temperature is much greater 
than that of the Warm Springs, being 112.'^ 

These springs flow into the Jackson, a source of the 
James river. 

The Natural Bridge is 150 miles west of Richmond, 
and by diverging to the left, without visiting Monticel- 
lo, may be taken in the route to the Warm Springs. 
This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rockbridge county, 
12 miles south west of Lexington, and is justly consid- 
ered one of the greatest natural curiosities in the world. 
T\\Q river at this plaxjo runs through a cliasra in a liill. 



FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 35 

The chasm is 90 feet wide at the the top, 200 feet deep, 
and the sides almost perpendicular. The bridge is 
formed by a huge rock thrown completely across this 
chasm at the top. The rock forming the bridge is 60 
feet broad in the middle, and is covered with earth and 
trees. It forms a sublime spectacle when examined 
from the margin of the river beneath.* 

FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON CITY, 

120 miles. 
A stage is generally taken at Richmond for the mouth 
of the Potomac creek, 9 miles beyond Fredericksburgh ; 
from whence steam-boats pass up the Potomac to 
Washington. The intermediate distances are as fol- 
lows : 



♦ A student of one of the Virginia colleg-es, a few 
years since, attempted the daring effort of climbing up 
one of the sides of this precipice. He had ascended 50 
or 60 feet before he was aware of the extreme hazard of 
the undertaking. It was then too late to retreat, and 
to progress seemed certain destruction. He, however, 
continued ascending from one crevice to another, hold- 
ing on the occasional protuberances of the rock, until 
he reached the top. But so arduous was the labor, 
that his hands and limbs were severely lacerated, and 
such was the effect on his mind of the perils and dan- 
gers encountered, that he became partially deranged, 
and never fully recovered the possession of his men- 
tal faculties. 



c2 



36 MOUNT VERNON. 



By Btage. Miles. 
From Richmond to 
Chickahomany riv- 
er, 10 

Hanover Court House, 10 
White Chimneys, .... 10 
Mattapony river, .... 8 

Bowhng Green, 6 

Vileboro', 8 



Miles, 

Fredericksburg, 14 

Mouth of Potomac 

creek, 9 

By steam-boat. 

Mount Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 



Fredericksburgh is situated on the south side of the 
Rappahannock river, 110 miles from its outlet into the 
Chesapeake Bay. It contains a court-house, jail, acad- 
emy, 2 banks, 4 churches, and about 500 dwelling-hou- 
ses ; and being near the head of navigation and sur- 
rounded by a fertile country, it enjoys an extensive and 
advantageous trade. 

The first object of immediate interest on ascending 
the Potomac, is 

Mount Vernon, on the south side of the river, 39 
miles from the mouth of Potomac creek. To this sa- 
cred spot the mind of every American recurs with the 
most enthusiastic devotion. He looks upon it as conse- 
crated ground. Here the immortal Washington, after 
having conducted the American armies forth to victory 
and independence, retired to enjoy the rich reward of 
his services in the warm hearted gratitude of his coun- 
trymen, and in the peaceful seclusion of private life. 

Tliis place was, till recently, the re'sidence of Judge 
Washington, the nephew of the General ; but since his 
decease in 1829, the estate has descended to John Ad- 
ams Washington, a nephew of the Judge. The road to 
it is almost uninhabited, and difficult to trace. The 



ALEXANDRIA. 37 

house stands on an eminence, embracing a delightful 
view of the Potomac, with a rich and beautiful lawn ex- 
tending in front to the river. 

The Tomb of Washington is visited as an interest- 
ing object of contemplation. Here slumber in peaceful 
silence the ashes of the great and patriotic Father of 
Liberty. Americans will repair to his grave and moist- 
en with their tears the sod that presses upon his bosom. 
No monument has yet been erected to his memory ; 
but it vnll survive, long after monuments shall have 
crumbled into dust. 

Alexandria, an incorporated city, 9 miles farther, 
on the west bank of the river, is a place of extensive 
business and of fashionable resort during the sittings of 
Congress. It contains a court house, 6 churches and 
a theological seminary. 

The Museum at this place, among other things, con- 
tains an elegant satin robe, scarlet on one side and white 
on the other, in which Gen. Washington was baptized ; 
a penknife with a pearl handle, given to him by his 
mother when he was in his twelfth year, and which he 
kept fifty-six years ; a pearl button, from the coat he 
wore at his first inauguration as President of the Uni- 
ted States in the old City Hall, New- York ; a black 
glove, worn by him while in mourning for his mother ; 
part of the last stick of sealing wax which he used ; the 
original of the last letter written by him, being a polite 
apology, in behalf of himself and Mrs. Wasliington, for 
declining an invitation to a ball at Alexandria ; it is penn- 
ed with singular neatness, accuracy and precision, and 
contains this expression — " Alas ! our dancing days are 



.38 WASHINGTON CITY. 

over ;" o hemdifid masonic apron, with the belt of scarlet 
satin and the white kid gloves worn by him the last 
time he shared in the social ceremonies of the " mys- 
tic tie." 

The country between this city and the capital is but 
thinly inhabited, and the soil poor and unproductive ; 
but the road is good, and a ride to Alexandria consti- 
tutes one of the amusements of a winter at Washington. 

WASHINGTON CITY 

Is 6 miles from Alexandria. As the seat of govern- 
ment of the Union, it is a place of much resort during' 
the session of congress in the winter ; but is mostly de- 
serted by strangers in the summer. It is situated on the 
Maryland side of the Potomac, and on a point of land 
formed by the junction of the Eastern Branch. The 
District of Columbia, in wliich the city is located, was 
ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia 
in 1790, and in 1800 it became the seat of the general 
government. This District is about 10 miles square, 
lying on both sides of the Potomac, and is under the 
immediate direction of congress. 

The original plan of Washington when completed, 
its pubhc edifices, and the elegance of its situation, will 
render it one of the most splendid cities in the world. 

Tlie Capitol stands on a high and lofty eminence, 
and commands a delightful prospect of the Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue, the President's House, Georgetown and 
the Potomac, the General Post-office, the Navy Yard, 
Grecnlears Point, the bridge on the river, and the road 
to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The capitol is built 
of white free stone, has two wings, and is a very mag- 
nificent edifice. 



WASHINGTON CITY. 39 

The Rotunda comprehends the spacious area between 
the two wings of the structure, and is of a circular form. 
It is entirely of marble, (and bo indeed is every perma- 
nent part of the capitol,) excepting the light doors cov- 
ered with green baize that lead out of it, and the frame 
of the sky light above. The height of the dome soars 
beyond the roof, and it may well be imagined, is most 
imposing and sublime. The floor is beautifully paved, 
and the sound of a single voice, uttering words in an or- 
dinary tone, reverberates aloft hke the faint rumbling 
of distant thunder. When two or more converse, there 
is an incessant roaring, absorbing the entire medium of 
60und. Even the simple touch of a walking stick on 
the pavement distictly echoes along the circumference, 
and dies away slowly in the capacious vault ; so ex- 
tremely elastic is the air wdthin. There is nothing that 
equals it in this country ; and, of itself, it well deserves 
a journey to Washington. 

In the niches designedly left about fifteen feet from 
the floor, are four sculptured pieces as large as life, de- 
signed to commemorate the aboriginal character and 
some of the prominent events in the early history of 
the country. The scene of the first device is laid in 
1773, and is designed to represent a fearful contest be- 
tween Daniel Boon, an early settler in one of the west- 
ern states, and an Indian chief. The second represents 
the landing of the Pilgiims at Plymouth in 1610. The 
third is a representation of William Penn and two In- 
dian chiefs in a treaty in 1682, under the memorable 
elm on the right bank of the Delaware, near Philadel- 
phia. And the fourth represents the narrow escape in 
1606 of Capt. John Smith, the first successful adventur- 



40 WASHINGTON CITY. 

er in Virginia, from the uplifted war club of King Pow- 
hatan. The figure of Pocahontas, in the attitude of 
supplicating the mercy of her father in behalf of the in- 
tended victim, is beautifully wrought, and the whole 
exhibits much elegance of design and workmanship. 

The Chamber of the House of Representatives is one of 
the richest and most splendid apartments of the kind 
that has ever been constructed. It is semi-circular, 
with dark blue columns of polished stone, and is light- 
ed from the roof. 

The J^ational Library is in the same edifice, and con- 
tains the paintings execcuted by Col. Trumbull. They 
are the Declaration of Independence, the surrender of 
the English armies on the plains of Saratoga and at 
York town, and General Washington in the act of re- 
signing his commission.* 

The President's House, which is also constructed of 
stone, two stories high, with four spacious buildings 
near it for the accommodation of the heads of depart- 
ment, make together an interesting spectacle for the 
visitant. 

Perhaps there is no spot in the United States that 
holds out more inducements to a traveller than this city 
during the sessions of congress. It is the theatre on 

* Capt. Hall, in his travels in the U. S. speaking of 
the Capitol, says : " By some strange perversity of taste, 
however, for which I never could learn to whom the 
public were indebted, this fine building has been cover- 
ed over with a coating of paint !" He should have been 
told that the painting was designed to hide the smoke 
occasioned by the conflagration which succeeded the 
capture of the city by the British troops in 1814. 



GEOnGETOVVN. 41 

which the pride and power of the American nation are 
congregated to control the destinies of a mighty people. 
It is the residence of all the foreign ministers, and em- 
braces a large portion of the gay and fashionable world. 
The levees at the house of the president are fascinat- 
ing ; and the apartments on these occasions are open 
and accessible to every citizen of the republic. 

The Navy Yard, located on the eastern branch of 
the Potomac, is an object worthy of attention. An ele- 
gant monument is here erected to the memory of the 
American officers who fell in the Tripolitan war. 

Georgetown is on the same side of the Potomac with 
Washington, at the distance of 3 miles west of the capi- 
tol. It is very pleasantly situated, and is a place of 
considerable trade. The country around it is richly di- 
versified, and the location of the Catholic Monastery 
is very dehghtful. It stands on the borders of " the 
heights," in the north west part of the town, and over- 
looks the body of the town below. The enclosure em- 
braces about one acre. On the north side is the acad- 
emy conducted by the nuns, consisting of a long range 
of buildings three stories high. In the middle of the 
front or eastern side stands the chapel. On the left 
of the chapel is the room of the father confessor, and 
also the private apartment of the nuns, into which no 
unhallowed tread of the worldly and profane is ever ad- 
mitted. 

The Academy, or High School for Ladies, is the most 
interesting appendage of the convent. It contains a 
boarding school of upwards of one hundred pupils, and 
a free or charity school of a much larger number of day 



42 GEORGETOWN. 

scholars. What strikes the visitor with most pleasure 
is the perfect system and order with which every thing 
is done. The young misses who compose the school 
are regularly and rigidly trained to do every thing on 
plan and method. 

The seminary is divided into four classes. The hall 
of the first class contains an extensive cabinet of miner- 
als, to wliich many rare and valuable specimens have 
been presented by the officers of our navy, and by cath- 
olics of the eastern world. It has also many rich spe- 
cimens of art ; the contributions of wealthy and pow- 
erful patrons of the church. The sword, sheath and 
belt of Iturbide, once a hero of South America, two of 
whose daughters are now in this convent, were recently 
presented to the cabinet by Commodore Rodgers. It 
also claims to have many sacred relics, such as shreds 
or scraps from the garments of numerous saints — frag- 
ments from the church and tomb of St. Peter, and of 
other saints — pieces of the wood of the cross, &c. of 
which the industry and credulity of the Catholics in the 
east have collected enough in the last 1400 years to 
build a ship of the Une. These relics, so says tradition, 
have been carefully preserved by a long line of popes, 
bishops and priests, and distributed among the church- 
es and their convents, as the memorials of many pre- 
cious and hallowed associations. The veneration with 
which they are regarded by catholics is well known. 
The same hall containing the cabinet has a good chem- 
ical labaratory. 

The number of nuns in this convent, at present, is 
about sixty. Among them are descendants of rich and 
powerful families. Their employment consists in con- 



FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE. 43 

fessions, vigils, fasts, penances, reading and religious 
exercises, in teaching, in domestic concerns, and in 
making fine needle-work for sale. The charity school 
embraces about 200 day pupils. For their humanity 
and benevolence in collecting and teaching these chil- 
dren, the nuns deserve praise. In these employments 
they appear happy ; but the happiness of these devo- 
tees, if real, must be of the negative kind. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, was commenced 
on the 4th of July, 1828, and is now in a state of for- 
wardness. It is to extend from Georgetown, D. C. to 
near Pittsburgh, Penn. where it will unite with the 
Pennsylvania canal and the Ohio river. Its length will 
be 360 miles, and its lockage 4004 feet. Tliis canal, 
towards the construction of which the United States 
have subscribed 5^200,000, will pass through an interest- 
ing part of the state of Pennsylvania, which it will 
greatly benefit, and prove of immense importance to the 
city of Pittsburgh. 

FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE— 38 mUes. 
There are from 12 to 15 lines of stages running daily 
between Washington and Baltimore ; so that a passage 
can be taken at almost any hour of the day. The in- 
termediate distances are as follows : 

MUes. MUes, 

Bladensburgh, 6 Patapsco river, 9 

Vansville, 8 Gwinn's Falls, 5 

Patuxent r. W. Branch, 3 Baltimore, 3 

do. E. Branch, 4 



44 BALTIMORE. 

BALTIMORE.* 

The rapid growth and present extent and population 
of this city is truly remarkable, and to be ascribed no 
less to the spirit of enterprise which has always char- 
acterised its inhabitants, than to the natural advantages 
of its position. Its scite is on the north side, and at 
the head of tide water on the Patapsco river, 14 miles 
above its entrance into the Cliesapeake. The centena- 
ry of its existence was celebrated in August, 1829. On 
the 8th of that month, in 1729, the first act was passed 
for laying out the town on sixty acres of land, from 
which the native forests had then but partially given 
place to the axe and the plough. These sixty acres were 
purchased at forty shillings per acre, to be paid in mon- 
ey, or tobacco at one penny per pound. The progress 
of the city at first was sluggish and unpromising. Thir- 
ty-three years after its location, (1752,) it contained 
but twenty-five houses, and a small brig and sloop were 
the only vessels owned in the town. Even up to 1773, 
the merchants were compelled to send their advertise- 
ments to Annapolis or Philadelphia, there being no 
newspaper then published in Baltimore. Now, with 
its population rising above 70,000, it may be consider- 
ed the third city in the union ; whilst, for its various 
manufactories and pubUc buildings, ornamental to the 

♦ For the description of Baltimore and its environs, 
(excepting that part relating to the rail road whdch is 
quoted,) I am indebted to John S. Skinner, Esq., the 
Post Master of that city, and able editor of the Ameri- 
can Farmer ; a work which has an extensive patron- 
age, but which cannot be too widely disseminated. 



BALTIMORE. 45 

city and remarkable for their costliness, taste andcom- 
modiousness, it stands undoubtedly in the first rank for 
enterprise and public spirit. For tobacco and flour 
Baltimore is the leading market ; for flour, the first in 
the world. Within 20 miles around, the water power 
is almost incalculable. It drives at present more than 
sixty flour mills, one of which has turned out 32,000 bar- 
rels in one year. There are, too, within that compass, 
twelve cotton manufactories, keeping in motion 30,000 
spindles, besides manufactories of cloth, powder, paper, 
iron, glass, steam engines, extensive chemical works, 
and one mill by steam power for manufacturing flour 
and copper, that has turned off" 200 barrels a day, and 
works annually about 600,000 pounds of raw copper. 
Many of these may conveniently be visited by sojourn- 
ers in the city, on foot or by short rides in the immedi- 
ate vicinity. 

The city, as re-chartered in 1816, contains 10,000 
acres, and embraces within the limits built upon, a 
court house, jail, penitentiary, lunatic asylum, two the- 
atres, the largest circus in America, an exchange, an 
observatory founded by the father of the gallant Com- 
modore Porter, two museums, five market houses, ten 
banks, gas works, (the first in this country for lighting 
the streets and houses,) a public library, a medical col- 
lege, and 45 houses of public worship. 

Most of these estabhshments would be worthy of the 
regard of tourists. It cannot be expected that we 
should describe them minutely, our object being but 
briefly to indicate their existence ; but almost all stran- 
gers make a visit to the cathedral, the exchange, the 
public fountains, of which there are four tastefully or- 



46 ' BALTIMORE. 

namented and giving a copious supply of pure spring 
water ; the museums, the monuments, and the rail 
roads. 

The Cathedral is built after the Grecian Ionic order, 
on a plan drawn by that distinguished and lamented 
architect, the late H. B. Latrobe. Its outward length 
is 190 feet, its width 177, and its height to the summit 
of the cross that surmounts the dome is 127 feet. A 
minute description of the numerous ornaments and spe- 
cimens of taste in the fine arts that abound in this 
magnificent building, would be incompatible with the 
plan of this work ; but we may advise the tourist that, 
amongst others, it contains the largest organ in the 
United States, with 6000 pipes and 36 stops, and two 
very splendid paintings— one the descent from the cross, 
by Paulin Guerin, a present from Louis XVI — another, 
presented by the present King of France, representing 
St. Louis, attended by his chaplain and armor-bearer, 
bvirying one of his officers slain before Tunis, as an en- 
couragement to his officers and soldiers, who, for fear 
of contagion, would have left their comrades to be de- 
voured by beasts and birds of prey. 

The Merchants' Exchange, built by private sub- 
scription, is another monument to the public spirit of 
the citizens. This edifice, from Water to Second, front- 
ing on Gay-street, is 255 by a depth on the two first of 
141 feet, and is three stories high exclusive of the base- 
ment. In the centre is the great hall, 86 feet by 53, 
lighted from the dome, which is 90 feet from the floor. 
In this hall, to which they have access by three entran- 
ces from three streets, the merchants convene daily 
from 1 to 2 o'clock. 



BALTIMORE. 47 

On a Bcale corresponding with these buildings in ex- 
tent and convenience, according to their several de- 
signs and objects, the traveller may be edified and 
amused by an inspection of the other public edifices, 
which here we could only designate by name. But in 
any thing hke a picture of Baltimore as a guide for the 
tourist, its monuments and its rail roads, leading to the 
Ohio and the Susquehannah, are decidedly the most 
striking features. The one called the Battle Monu- 
ment, an elegant marble structure about 55 feet high, 
was commenced on the scite of the old court house in 
Washington Square, on the 12th of September, 1815, in 
memory of those who, on the 12th and 13th of the 
same month in the preceding year, had fallen gallantly 
in defence of the city. 

Another splendid monument called the Washington 
Monument, built of white marble, ornamental to the 
city and honourable to its inhabitants, (but vain as 
an efibrt to extend the fame of him whose glory is as 
wide and imperishable as the empire of letters,) has 
been erected on an elevation a little north of the com- 
pact part of the city, presented for that purpose by the 
late Col. John E. Howard, the hero of Eutaw and of 
the Cowpens. The base is 50 feet square and 23 high, 
on which is placed another square of about half the ex- 
tent and elevation. On this, is a column 20 feet in di- 
ameter at the base, and 14 at the top. The colossal 
statue of Washington, the largest one in modem ages, 
is placed on the summit 163 feet from the ground. 
This monument is to be embellished with has reliefs 
and other decorations. 
d2 



48 BALTIMORE. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road commences a 
short distance from the Washington turnpike road on 
West Pratt street, where the company have estabhsh- 
ed a depot. It is finished as far as EUicott's mills, and 
supplied with rails a considerable portion of this dis- 
tance ; so that carriages are daily passing on it, and in 
the course of the summer, (1S30) it is expected that 
passengers and transportation waggons will regularly 
occupy the road, and afford to citizens and strangers 
one of the most delightful trips imaginable. There are 
few more romantic scenes than that of EUicott's mills 
and the vicinity on the Patapsco, through the most pic- 
turesque part of which the road passes ; and as the 
time occupied in going will only be about an hour, and 
the mode of travelling being as free from jolt and jar as 
a sleigh ride, it is anticipated that few will leave the 
city without having taken one of these airings. There 
are many points on the rail road worthy of particular 
notice, the most prominent of which is the bridge (or 
Carrollton Viaduct as it is called,) over Gwynn's Falls, 
about one and a half miles from the city. This is one 
of the most magnificent pieces of architecture in Ameri- 
ca — alike beautiful in proportion, materials and work- 
manship. This bridge is built of a beautifiil granite, 
contains one arch of about 80 feet span, and 10 fpot in 
height, and is 312 feet in length from end to end of the 
parapets. 

" The Jackson Bridge, Is a single arch 109 feet long, 
of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, 
of the company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut, 
through a high and broad ridge of land, is about three 
fouiths of a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, 



BATIMOKE. 49 

and its width, at the summit of the ridge, 184 feet. 
Quantities of carbonized wood were found sixty feet 
below the natural surface, and the stump of a tree with 
its roots at forty feet. The entire excavation is 263,- 
848 cubic yards. The Great Embankment at Gadsbxfs 
Run, five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in 
length, its greatest elevation 56 feet, and its greatest 
width 191 feet. At the top, the usual width of 26 feet 
is preserved for a double set of rails. Gadsby^s Run 
Viaduct, affords a passage to the waters of the run 
through the embankment. The arch, composed of 
dressed granite blocks, is of the extraordinary width of 
120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Via- 
duct, is an immense structure of granite, by which the 
road is carried to the opposite bank of the Petapsco. It 
is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in 
weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four 
beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 
feet, with extensive wings and water walls, abutments, 
&c. The height from the water to the crown of the 
arches is 30 feet. The corner stone of this structure 
was laid on the 6th May, 1829, and on the 4th of De- 
cember it was crossed on horseback by William Pat- 
terson, esq. for whom the honor had been reserved, and 
whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,0C0 
perches of masonry. Besides these are the embank- 
ments at Stillhouse Run, two granite viaducts, the 
rock-side cutting at Buzzard's Rock, &c." 

This road is to extend to the Ohio river at Pitts- 
burgh, Penn. a distance of about 300 miles ; and will 
be travelled, it is calculated, with horse power in 30, and 
with steam power in 20 hours through the whole line. 



50 BALTIMORE. 

The Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail road haa 
also been commenced. It is to extend from Baltimore 
to York Haven on the Susquehannah river, distant 60 
miles. The cost is estimated at $7,500 per mile. 

For its houses for the accommodation of travellers, 
Baltimore is not remarkable, except for its City Hotel. 
This is the most splendid edifice of its kind in the un- 
ion, if not in the world. It is centrally and most con- 
veniently situated, presenting a front on Calvert street 
of 117 feet, running back 183 — taking in two spacious 
buildings formerly occupied as private residences, so 
connected with the establishment as to afford two dis- 
tinct private entrances on Fayette street, which lead to 
thirteen parlors arranged expressly for the accommoda- 
tion of private families, with chambers so connected 
%vith them as to make them as convenient for ladies and 
children as any private house. The City Hotel con- 
tains 172 apartments, and was built expressly for a ho- 
tel, under the direction of its experienced proprietor, 
Mr. Bamum. In the basement of the building on Cal- 
vert street is situated the Post-Office, into which the 
traveller may deposit his letters by a conduit from the 
large Reading Room above, where they can peruse, 
gratuitously, the papers from all parts of the union. 
There are also in the basement the offices of the Amer- 
ican Turf Register and of the American Farmer, as also 
the General Stage Office of Stockton & Stokes. All 
the mail coaches start from this hotel. To all other con- 
veniences combined in this establishment which travel- 
lers can desire, is added an observatory on the top of it, 
constructed expressly to afford to its guests views of the 
harbor and Fort M'Henry, and the town, and the coun- 
try seats that surround it. 



BALTIMORE. 61 

The Indian Queen, the next largest establishment, 
is well and liberally kept by Mr. Bettzhower, its obli- 
ging and popular tenant. 

And here we may close this sketch of that patriotic 
city by the remark, that it is in nothing more distin- 
guished from our other large cities, than by the beauty 
of its envirms. A succession of elevated scites rising 
one above another encircle it from the Philadelphia 
road on the east to the Washington turnpike on the 
west. From these eminences the stranger obtains, at a 
single cmip cPail, a view of the town and its numerous ap- 
proaches by land and water, its monuments, its domes, 
its steeples and its towers. 

Some of these heights are crowned with private res- 
idences, displaying all the taste and magnificence that 
characterize the seats of European opulence and re- 
finement. Of these, the most expensively embellished 
and conspicuous is " Green Mount," the elegant sum- 
mer retreat of a gentleman whose taste and hospitality 
happily correspond with his ample possessions. To 
the splendid mansion, with all its incidental accommo- 
dations, on the most extensive and liberal scale, is con- 
nected a circular promenade of three quarters of a mile 
in length, overshadowed by trees from every clime, 
tempting to healthful exercise, and offering on either 
hand every variety of fruit and flower that cultivated 
nature has prepared to dehght the eye and gratify the 
palate. Whilst for the benevolent proprietor a sentiment 
of universal and profound respect consecrates his 100 
acres that border on this line of the city, guarding them 
from the hand of depredation, strangers entitled to con- 



53 



rfiOM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 



sideration visit Green Mount without difficulty and ad- 
mire it without measure. 

Finally, in contemplating Baltimore in its various ob- 
jects of attraction for the tourist, it is not possible to 
forget one living monument, around which the most in- 
teresting moral associations are entwined ; for it is 
there that still resides the last of the ancient fathers 
who sent forth our glorious proclamation of independ- 
ence to the world. Whilst its principles continue to be 
cherished and honored, posterity will hallow with 
grateful admiration the name of Charles Carroll of 
Carrollton. 

FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

A daily land or water route can be taken ; but since 
the completion of the Chesapeake and Delaware Ca- 
nal, the latter is generally preferred. Both routes, 
however, are given, wath the intermediate distances : 
Stage Route — 101 miles. 



Miles. 
From Baltimore to 

Herring's Run, 4 

Bird's Run, 8 

Great Gunpowder 

falls, 3 

Little do 2 

Winter's Run, 4 

Hartford, 4 

Havre de Grace, ... , 11 

Susquehannah river, 1 

Charleston, 5 

North East river, ... 2 



Miles. 

Elkton, 8 

Big Elk Creek, 1 

Delaware state hne,, 2 

Christiana Creek, ... 3 

Christiana, . , 5 

Newport, . , . , 5 

Wilmington,* .,.,.« 4 

Brandywine Creek,. 1 

Chester, 13 

Darby, 8 

Schuylhill river, ..... 6 

Philadelplaia, 1 



♦Wilmington, a port of entry and the largest town 
in the state of Delaware, is the only place oTmudi im- 



PROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. &3 



Steam boat and Canal Route — 9Q miles. 



Miles. 
Steam boat. 
From Baltimore to 
North Point, Ches- 

apeak bay,) 12 

Poole's Island, 10 

Mouth of Elk river,. 18 
Chesapeake village, 
on Back river, 
where the Canal 
commences....... 4 

Canal boat. 
Passage on the Ca- 



Milet. 
nal to Delaware 

city, 14 

Steam boat. 

Newcastle, 5 

Outlet of Brandy- 
wine creek, 4 

Marcus Hook, 9 

Chester, 3 

Lazaretto, 3 

Fort Mifflin, 8 

Gloucester, 2 

Philadelphia, 4 

Tliis route is usually performed in about 12 hours. 
The steam boat, after leaving the Chesapeake bay en- 
ters Elk river, but instead of pursuing the old route up 
the river to Frenchtown, her course is directed up Back 
Creek to the village of Chester. This creek is narrow 
and tortuous in its course, and the banks are for the 
most part covered with a thick foliage of the richest 



portance on this route. The town is situated between 
Christiana and Brandywine creeks, 1 mile above their 
confluence, and 2 miles west of the Delaware river. 
The great faciUties afibrded here make it an important 
manufacturing town ; it having some of the finest flour- 
ing mills and cotton factories in the union. It con- 
tains from 10 to 12,000 inhabitants, a spacious alms- 
house, 3 banks, a U. S. arsenal, and 9 churches. An 
ancient building, called the old Swedish church, erect- 
ed in 1698, stands near the Christiana creek in this 
town; opposite to which is an ancient church-yard, 
used by the first settlers of the place. It contains a 
few tomb-stones, the inscriptions of which are nearly 
defaced by the hand of time. 



54 CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE CANAL. 

and most delightful kind, rendered more picturesque 
by being interspersed with an occasional fishing hut. 
At the village of Chesapeake, the 

Chesapeake and Delaware Canal commences, 
where a packet is taken, drawn by six horses. These 
packets are fitted up in good style, and move at the 
rate of about 7 miles an hour. This canal, which con- 
nects the waters of the Chesapeake bay with those of 
the Delaware river, is 14 miles long, 36 feet wide on 
the bottom and 60 feet at the surface. It is calculated 
for the passage of vessels drawing 8 feet of water, 
though the banks are constructed so as to retain 10 
feet, if necessary. There are two tide and two lift 
locks, and the summit level is a little more than 9 
miles long, and 10 feet above ordinary flood tide. Be- 
tween 2 and 3 miles from Chesapeake village com- 
mences what is called the Deep Cut. Its length is 
nearly four miles, and the embankments vary from 8 
to 70 feet in height. To furnish something of an idea 
of the magnitude of the work, it is stated that the earth 
excavated to form this part of the canal and the neces- 
sary drains was more than 90 milUons of cubic feet. 
At the greatest elevation a most imposing work, called 
Summit Bridge has been extended across. It is built 
on a hard firm bank, where the original surface attains 
an elevation of 65 feet, above which the abutments are 
built 20 feet in thickness. The sides of the canal be- 
low the abutments are protected by a slope wall laid 
from the bottom of the canal to the top of the bank, 
from six to two feet in tliickness. The floor of the 
bridge is 90 feet above the bottom of the canal ; ex- 
treme length 280 feet. Independently of the interest 



PHILADELPHIA. 55 

excited by the bridge, the view of the canal from its 
commanding height is grand beyond description. A 
flight of steps have been erected, to facilitate the as- 
cent from the tow-path up the bank. 

After leaving the Deep Cut, the canal enters what 
is called The Old Mill Pond, three miles beyond the 
Cranberry Marshes. Three miles farther are the St. 
Ceorge's Marshes, the forming of the banks of the ca- 
nal through which was an immense labor. The spe- 
cific gravity of the earth used for the purpose exceed- 
ing that of the surroundmg marshes, it sunk in many 
places as fast as it could be carted on, and in some in- 
stances it is calculated to have gone to a depth of from 
60 to 80 feet, and in one place 100 feet below the orig-- 
inal surface, raising many ares of the adjacent marsh- 
es several feet above original level. 

At the eastern termination of the canal, the City of 
Delaware has sprung up like many of the flourishing 
villages on the banks of the Erie canal in New- York. 
It will probably become a place of considerable impor- 
tance. At this village a steam boat is again taken, 
which, proceeding up the Delaware river, passes in suc- 
cession the villages of Newcastle, Chester and Laza- 
retto, Fort Mifflin on an island in the Delaware, and 
Gloucester, to 

PHILADELPHIA, 
The flourishing capital of Pennsylvania. It stands 
on the west bank of the river Delaware, five miles from 
its confluence with the Schuylkill, which forms its wes- 
tern boundary. This city was founded in 1682, and 
incorporated in 1701. The charter being abrogated at 



56 PHILADELPHIA. 

the revolution, it remained under a provincial govern- 
ment till 1789, when it was incorporated a second time. 
Its present population is upwards of 130,000. The city 
is built on streets from 50 to 100 feet in width, running 
parallel, and at right angles to each other. They are 
handsomely paved, and are kept remarkably clean. 
The houses exhibit an appearance of neatness, uniform- 
ity and commodiousness, and many of them are orna* 
mented with white marble. Against the city, which 
is 90 miles distant from the sea, the Delaware is about 
a mile wide, and is navigable for ships of a large size. 
The most conspicuous buildings are the churches, the 
state house, the United States and Pennsylvania Banks, 
and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb. The Bank 
of the U. S. was established in the year 1816, with a 
capital of $35,000,000. The banking house is a splen- 
did structure, built on the plan of the Parthenon at 
Athens, and is situated in a north and south direction, 
fronting on Chesnut and Library streets, having 8 fluted 
columns, 4 feet 6 inches in diameter, embracing the 
whole front. From each of the fronts are porticoes, 
projecting 10 feet 6 inches. The whole length of the 
edifice, including the portico, is 161 feet, and its breadth 
in front 87 feet. The main entrance is from Chesnut- 
street, by a flight of six marble steps, extending along 
the whole front of the portico. The banking room oc- 
cupies the centre of the building, being 48 feet wide, 
and 81 feet long. The whole body of the building is 
arched in a bomb proof manner, from the cellar to the 
roof, which is covered with copper. 

There are in this city 88 houses for public worship ; 
10 banks, 13 insurance companies, of which S are ma- 



PHILADELPHIA. 57 

fine, 4 fire, and one for lives and annuities, a custom 
house, an exchange, and a chamber of commerce. 

The J\''e%o Bank of Pennsylvania is an extensive and el- 
egant edifice of marble, of the Ionic order, and con- 
structed after the model of the ancient temple of the 
muses, on the Ilyssus. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is one of the oldest and 
most respectable institutions of that description in the 
Union. 

The State House, in which the continental congress 
sat, and from whence the Declaration of Independence 
issued, is still standing. It is located in Chesnut-street, 
is built of brick, comprising a centre and two wings, and 
has undergone no material alteration since its first erec- 
tion. It has a venerable appearance, and is surmount- 
ed by a cupola, having a clock, the dial of wliich 13 
glass, and is illuminated at night until 10 or 11 o'clock, 
shewing the hour and minutes until that time. The 
front is a considerable distance back from the street, 
the walk being paved to the curb-stone with brick, and 
two elegant rows of trees extending its whole length. 
East of the main entrance, in the front room, the ses- 
sions of congress were held, and the question of inde- 
pendence decided. 

The Arcade in Philadelphia, like that at New- York, 
iias proved a bad speculation — though the former is 
twice the size of the latter, and appears to be more de- 
serted. It contains Peale's Museum, one of the best 
in the United States, comprising the most complete 
skeleton of the Mammoth perhaps in the world. It is 
perfect, with the exception of a few bones, which have 



58 PHILADELPHIA. 

been supplied by imitating the others. This skeleton 
was found in Ulster county, New- York. 

The Academy of Arts, in Chesnut-street, contains 
a large number of paintings, several of which are the 
property of Joseph Bonaparte. Among these is one 
executed by David, representing Napoleon crossing the 
Alps. Another is a full length portrait of Joseph him- 
self, as king of Spain. 

The U. S. Mint, estabhshed here, is at present in an 
ordinary building ; though a new and handsome edi- 
fice is constructing for the purpose. 

Of the pubhc works of Philadelphia, there is none of 
which its inhabitants are more justly proud than those 
at Fair Mount, by which the city is supphed with wa- 
ter of the best quality, in the greatest plenty. Fair 
Mount is in the rear of the city upon the bank of the 
Schuylkill, the neighborhood of which affords a variety 
of romantic scenery. The situation is such as peculiar- 
ly adapts it for the purpose to M^Iiich it has been devot- 
ed. The reservoirs are situated on the top of a hill ris- 
ing from the river, a part of it perpendicular rock, up- 
wards of one hundred feet. The ascent from the river 
to the reservoirs is by a flight of substantial wood- 
en steps, with resting places, over one of which is a 
temple. The reservoirs, which are surrounded with 
a pale fence, outside of which is a gi-avelled walk, 
contain upwards of twelve millions of gallons, supply- 
ing the city through between 15 and 20 miles of ipipes. 
The water was formerly forced to the reservoirs by 
steam, which is no longer used ; it is now raised by 
machinery propelled by the Schuylkill. The machinery 
is simple, and is turned by large water wheels, of which 



PHILADELPHIA. 59 

there are five, one of them of iron of 24 tons weight. 
Their speed may be graduated to any required number 
of revolutions per minute ; and if all are in motion, they 
will raise seven millions of gallons 'in 24 hours. To 
turn them, the Schuylkill has been dammed its whole 
breadth, by which the water is thrown back into a res- 
ervoir lock, whence it is admitted as required to ope- 
rate upon the wheels, and is discharged into the river 
below the dam. The whole expense of these works, 
including estimated cost of works abandoned, was 
$1,783,000. That required to keep them in operation 
is comparatively trifling. The quantity of water thus 
disseminated through the city, is not only sufficient for 
every family, but is used to wash the streets. It is of 
immense service in case of fire, as it is only necessary 
to screw the hose to hydrants, which are placed at con- 
venient distances, to secure a constant stream of suffi- 
cient force to reach an ordinary height. 

The Navy Yard (on the Delaware) receives the vis- 
its of strangers more particularly in consequence of the 
immense vessel, the Pennsylvania, there erecting. Her 
dimensions are 198 feet keel, 57 feet beam, and 45 feet 
in depth from the upper deck to the keel. She has four 
decks, on which are to be mounted from 140 to 180 
guns, manned by 1200 men. 

The New Penitentiary, located on elevated ground 
near the city, and nearly completed, is designed to 
carry the principle of solitary confinement completely 
into effect. Ten acres of land are occupied for the pur- 
pose, forming a square of 650 feet each way, and en- 
closed by massy walls of granite, 35 feet high, with 
towers and battlements. The prison is in the centre 
e2 



60 PHILADELPHIA. 

of the square, and is admirably calculated for the pur- 
poses for which it was designed. The expense already 
incurred in its erection is $300,000. 

In amount of shipping, Philadelphia occupies the 
fourth rank in the U. S. ; and three lines of regular and 
commodious packets now run between the city and 
Liverpool. 

Its principal hotels are, the U. S. Hotel, in Chesnut- 
street ; the Mansion House, in 3d street ; and Judd's, 
in 2d street, between Market and Chesnut ; and its 
principal boarding houses are Mrs. Frazier's in Spen- 
cer-street, Mrs. Sword's in Walnut, and Mrs. Allen's 
in 6th street, near the State House. 

The banks of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia, con- 
tain numerous elegant country seats, and several pub- 
lic buildings. Among the private residences, none are 
perhaps more justly admired than that of Henry Pratt, 
Esq. on Lemon Hill. The mansion house is situated 
on the eastern bank of the river, and directly above the 
Fair Mount Water Works, about a mile from the city. 
Connected with the mansion are gardens of the most 
extensive kind, laid out in a style of much elegance and 
taste. To these gardens, respectable citizens and 
strangers have free access ; and a ride to them is among 
the various pleasant excursions in the vicinity of the 
city. 

The Shot Toaver of Mr. Beck is also an object of 
much curiosity to strangers visiting Philadelphia. It 
stands on the east bank of the Schuylkill, in the rear of 
the city, and is a lofty edifice, from the top of which a 
very extensive view ran bp had of the surrounding 
country. 



PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 61 

The Philadelphia and Liverpool Packets, which 
are handsomely fitted up, sail from Philadelphia on the 
20th and from Liverpool on the 8th of each month. 
Price of passage in the cabin, £30 sterling, and in the 
steerage, ^25, including accommodations. 

In the NEW LINE BY WAY OF Savannah, the packets 
sail from Philadelphia the 20th of each month. 

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

The first turnpike in America was made in Pennsyl- 
vania ; and the state at this time contains near 3000 
miles of turnpiked roads, at a cost of about $8,000,000. 
Among the bridges built across its principal rivers, for- 
ty five are estimated to have cost $3,000,000 ; and more 
than $10,000,000 have been expended within the state 
on canals. 

The Union Canal was commenced about 40 years 
since, by a private company ; but having to encounter 
the expense of an extensive timnel at the summit, of 
236 yards in length, and an insufficiency of water for 
the western section, which is drawn up twenty feet by 
a steam engine, it was partially abandoned ; but since 
the completion and successful operation of the Erie and 
Champlain canals, and a stimulus having been produ- 
ced in Pennsylvania, this canal was re- commenced and 
completed, and is in successful operation. It commen- 
ces near Reading on the Schuylkill river, 51 miles north 
west of Philadelphia, and extends thence in a westerly 
direction to Lebanon, and thence along the Swatara 
creek to Middletown, on the Su)=quehannah river, nine 
miles below Ilnrrishnrgh, the ?<»at of government of the 
Ftate. 



62 PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 

The length of this canal is 79 miles ; the water for 
the principal supply of the eastern section, a distance of 
40 miles, is drawn from the Tulpehockan river, a branch 
of the Schuylkill. The lockage on this section is 276 1-2 
feet in 53 locks : the locks are of various lifts, and cost 
$650 per foot. The western section extends 39 miles, 
having a lockage of 226 1-2 feet in 37 locks, besides an 
expensive tunnel. 

By a law of the Pennsylvania legislature, charter- 
ing the Union Canal Company, passed in 1826, they 
were prohibited from erecting any works which should 
prevent the descent of rafts in the channel of the Swa- 
tara. This provision having been repealed in 1829, the 
company subsequently resolved on extending the canal 
to a point at or near the village of Pine Grove, about 
four miles from what is called " The Coal Region." 
From the basin at the northern extremity of the canal, 
it is contemplated to extend rail roads along the vallies 
of the Swatara and its various branches, which inter- 
sect the country in every direction, and afRjrd ground 
admirably adapted for their construction. Another 
opening at Fishing creek, near the termination of the 
great reservoir, is said to possess equal advantages, 
both as respects the position of its coal and the facility 
of access. 

These mines, it is supposed by competent judges, can 
be wrought as easily and economically as those of 
Mount Carbon ; and it is confidently predicted, that at 
no very distant day, the Swatara coal will form an im- 
portant item of the consumption and exportation of the 
city of Philadelphia. 



i?ENNSYLVAl«IA CANALS. 68 

By means of the Union Canal and the Schuylkill 
slack water navigation, there is a communication from 
Philadelphia to the Susquehannah river ; and this com- 
munication is to be greatly extended by means of the 

Pennsylvania Canal, which is rapidly progressing. 
This canal commences at Columbia, 80 miles north 
west of Philadelphia, and unites with the Union Canal 
at Middletown, 18 miles farther. From thence it pro- 
ceeds in a westerly direction to the Juniata — thence up 
that river to the foot of the Allegany mountains, which 
are to be crossed by a rail road, 40 miles long ;* at the 
end^f which the canal re-commences, uniting with the 
Allegany and Ohio rivers at Pittsburgh. The whole 
length of this canal, including the rail road across the 
mountains, will be 314 miles, and the lockage rising of 
1100 feet. At its eastern termination, a rail road is to 
be constructed, 80 miles long, passing through the city 
of Lancaster, to Philadelphia. When this canal, with 
others in progress in Pennsylvania, shall have been 
completed, that state (in the language of her canal com- 
missioners) " will present to the trade of the western 
country an avenue to the Atlantic coast, equal, if not 
superior, to any which has been, or can be constructed. 
Besides, her own manufactures and agricultural pro- 
ducts, which will seek a market through the canal, are 
equal in amount to those of any other state, independ- 
ently of her coal, iron, salt and lumber, which in ton- 



♦ Another plan proposed is to pass the summit by a 
tunnel of one mile in length, and overcoming the eleva- 
tion by five levels on each side. The expense is es- 
timated at a little short of ^1,000,000. 



64 PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 

nage must exceed all other articles transported to 
market." 

The Pennsylvania canal will ultimately be added to 
the list of interesting routes already presented to trav- 
ellers visiting the middle and northern states. After 
reaching the Juniata, a singularly romantic and beauti- 
ful stream, the canal winds along a gentle and practica- 
ble acclivity, following the bed of the river for nearly a 
hundred miles. Two mighty ranges of mountains rise 
from the limpid Juniata, like two green leaves of an im- 
mense opening volume. These mountains, apparently 
arranged to the course of this stream, seem to lie al- 
most at right angles to the great parallel ridges. The 
Juniata finds a passage by a very equable and gentle 
declivity through all the mountains except the last ridge 
that parts its waters from those of the Ohio. More 
beautiful forms of mountains than these which skirt this 
river, can no where be seen. Sometimes, for many 
miles together, they rise, smooth, verdant and unbrok- 
en, by equable slopes, from the very verge of the stream 
to the height of twelve hundred feet ; and here, appar- 
ently, when the fountains of the great deep were brok- 
en up, the rocky summits of the mountains were dis- 
membered at the same time. For miles together, and 
in many places the whole sides of the grand slope, from 
summit to base, are strown with large fragments of 
smooth building stone; and it is inconceivable how 
smoothly and completely they line the sides of these 
mighty hills. Layers of these rocks cover thousands of 
acres, for a depth apparently of forty or fifty feet ; and 
for a considerable distance the road is formed by the re- 
moval of these layers along the roots of the mountains, 



PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 65 

the carriage winding its way many hundred feet above 
the canal, which is perpendicularly below. 

In other places, more recent slides of the earth and 
rocks from the summits of the mountains have cut away 
a visible and uniform path, sweeping trees and every 
obstacle before it, until the spoils are accumulated at 
the foot of the mountains. Indeed, every foot of this 
route of a hundred miles is enriched with scenery of 
unexampled sublimity ; and we can imagine no higher 
treat for the tourist than a passage along its banks, 
connected with the crossing of the Alleganies, and a 
trip to Pittsburgh. 

In addition to the foregoing, the state have construct- 
ed, or are constructing, a canal from Middletown, at the 
junction of the Union Canal with the Susquehannah, to 
Muncy Hills upon the West Branch of that river, 90 
miles in length ; another from Northumberland, at the 
junction of the East and West Branches of the Susque- 
hannah, up the former branch, to Nanticoke falls, 55 
miles ; another from Bristol, up the Delaware river, to 
Easton, near the junction of the Lehigh and Delaware, 
60 miles ;* and another from French creek (a navigable 



* This is what is usually called the Delaware canal, 
and is designed to be completed ultimately from 
Philadelphia to Carpenter's Point, forming a junction 
with the Morris and Lehigh canals at Easton, and 
with the Delaware and Hudson canal at Carpenter's 
Point, the boundary hne between Pennsylvania and 
New- York. [These canals are noticed in the subsequent 
pages of this loork.] It is divided into three sections : 
the lower section extends from Philadelphia to Bristol, 
distance 17 1-2 miles, estimated at $11,474 per mile. 



66 PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 

Stream which rises within 10 miles of Lake Erie, and 
joins the Allegany 80 miles from Pittsburgh) to Muddy 
run, in the north west part of the state, 19 1-2 miles. 
The whole extent of canals placed under contract by 
the state commissioners in 1829, was 428 1-2 miles ; of 
which distance, 195 miles were then navigable, vir. 



which is $202,799. The middle section commences at 
Bristol and extends to Easton, distance 60 miles, es- 
timated cost $11,443 per mile, which is $686,596. Up- 
per section from Easton to Carpenter's Point, distance 
70 miles, lockage 268 1-3 feet. Estimated by the com- 
missioners to cost $20,438 per mile ; do. by H. G. 
Sergeant, civil engineer, at $18,530, which is $1,300,- 
608 34 : whole length of this canal 147 1-2 miles, cost 
$2,190,003 34. This canal, when connected with the 
Delaware and Hudson canal, and the Belmont rail road 
to be constructed from the head of the canal at Dyber- 
ry, up a branch of the Lackawaxen and down the Sta- 
rucca to Harmony, will open a communication be- 
tween Philadelphia and the Susquehannah river, dis- 
tance 227 miles. The length of the rail road will be 
about 30 miles, elevation and depression about 1200 
feet. The location is favorable for a rail road, as there 
is an abundance of water on the whole route to operate 
the necessary stationary engines to overcome the grav- 
ity by inclined planes. 

The state of New- Jersey also contemplates construct- 
ing a canal from the Rariton river in that state to the 
Delaware, distance 40 miles ; and an arrangement has 
been made by commissioners appointed by New-Jersey 
and Pennsylvania, by which each state, on certain con- 
ditions, shall have liberty to erect dams on the Dela- 
ware (which forms the boundary line between the two 
states) for the uses of the respective canals, and for hy- 
draulic purposes. 



PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 67 

From Pittsburgh to the head of the dam at Blairsville, 
75 miles ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Lewiston, 
45 miles ; from Middletown to Clark's Ferry, 24 miles ; 
from the mouth of the Juniata to Northumberland, 41 
miles ; and on the French creek feeder, 10 miles. A 
great portion of the remaining 233 1-4 miles they re- 
ported to be nearly finished, and the whole in a state of 
rapid progress to the completion. 

The amount then expended on these works was $6,- 
406,000 ; the debts due, ^1,398,780 67 ; and the estima- 
ted amount of labor to be performed, of ever}'^ descrip- 
tion, $2,060,742 39— making the total cost $9,865,- 
533 06. 

Besides these canals, are the following, belonging to 
incorporated companies : 

The Schuylkill Canal, from Philadelphia up the 
Schuylkill river, intersecting the Union canal at Read- 
ing, to the Schuylkill coal mines at Mount Carbon — 
lockage 588 feet — length 108 miles, including 46 miles 
of slack water on the river. The navigation commen- 
ced in 1825, when the tolls received by the company 
amounted to only $15,775 ; since which there has been 
a great annual increase — the tolls in 1829 having 
amounted to $120,039. 

The Lehigh Canal, from Easton, on the Delaware, 
up the Lehigh river to the coal mines at Mauch Chunk, 
and from thence to Stoddartsville. Length of the ca- 
nal 46 miles, lockage 35 feet, slack water 38 miles, 
whole distance 84 miles. 



68 THE COAL MINES. 

THE COAL MINES. 

Since the discovery and opening of the extensive 
coal mines in Pennsylvania, and the great internal im- 
provements which have been made in the state, pro- 
viding an easy communication to them, it has become 
almost a matter of course to embrace them within the 
tour of the middle and northern states. The Lehigh 
and Schuylkill, the principal mines already explored, 
are located from 100 to 120 miles in a north-easterly 
direction from Philadelphia, between a chain of moun- 
tains denominated the Blue Ridge and the Susque- 
hannah river. The anthracite district is principally 
occupied by mountains running parallel to the Blue 
Ridge, often broad with table land summits, and rising 
generally about 1500 feet above the ocean. These 
summits, by repeated fires, have been principally di- 
vested of timber, and are generally too stony for til- 
lage. The beds and veins of anthracite range from 
north-east to south-west, and may often be traced for 
a considerable distance by the compass ; but they 
have been found in the greatest quantity in sections 
most accessible by water. Extensive beds and veins 
range from the Lehigh to the Susquehannah, crossing 
the head waters of the Schuylkill and Swatara about 
ten miles north-west of the Blue Ridge. They are al- 
so found contiguous to the Susquehannah and Lacka- 
wanna. But in no part of the district does the anthra- 
cite exist in such apparently inexhaustible beds as in 
the vicinity of Mauch Chunk, a village situated on the 
Lehigh, 35 miles from Easton, and lOS by water from 
Philadelphia. The coal is there excavated on the flat 



THE COAL MINES. 69 

summit of a mountain that rises near 1 500 feet above 
the ocean. It is disclosed for several miles on the 
summit wherever excavations have been made, and is 
indicated in many places by coal slate in a pulverulent 
st3,te, on the surface. The mountain rises with steep 
acclivity, particularly on the north-west side, and when 
penetrated at various altitudes, discloses coal at about 
the same distance from the surface. In the deep exca- 
vations made on the summit, no termination of the 
coal has been found, and it is not improbable that an- 
thracite forms the nucleus of the mountain for a con- 
siderable distance. 

The coal is rendered accessible by removing from 
the flat summit gravelly loam, which is from a few 
inches to four feet in depth, and disintegrated slate 
with impure coal, from two to four feet. The coal 
rests in a horizontal position, narrow parallel seams of 
argillaceous schist intervening. Strong chalybeate 
springs, holding in solution sulphate of iron, issue from 
the mountain's side. The coal excavation on the sur- 
face is extensive, and from 30 to 40 feet deep, forming 
a hollow square, bounded by lofty mural precipices of 
coal. Waggons are admitted by avenues that serve to 
discharge water from the mine. 

Next to Mauch Chunk, Mount Carbon, or Pottsville, 
situated at the head of the Schuylkill canal, has been 
the principal source of the supply of anthracite. Many 
large veins are worked within three miles of the lan- 
ding ; and some have been opened seven miles to the 
north-east in the direction of the Lehigh beds. The 
chief veins wrought are, one situated on an eminence 
adjacent to the village ; Bailey's mine, about 2 miles 



70 THE COAL. MINES. 

from Pottsville and near the turnpike to Lunbury, and 
on the territory of the New- York Schuylkill company 
about 3 miles from the village. On almost every em- 
inence adjacent to Pottsville, indications of coal are dis- 
closed. The veins generally run in a north-east direc- 
tion, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and are 
from 3 to 9 feet in thickness. Commencing at or near 
the surface, they penetrate to an unknown depth, and 
can often be traced on hills for a considerable distance, 
by sounding in a north-east or south-west direction. 
Some veins have been wrought to a depth of 200 feet 
without a necessity of draining, the inclined slate roof 
shielding them from water. Where the ground admits, 
it is considered the best mode of working veins to com- 
mence at the back of a coal mine eminence, or as low 
as possible, and work up, filling the excavation with 
slate and fine coal, leaving a horizontal passage for the 
coal barrows. A section of a wide vein near Pottsville 
has been excavated by this mode several hundred feet 
into the hill. 

On the extensive tract occupied by the New-York 
company, five miles from Pottsville, there are also in- 
exhaustible coal beds, in the excavating of which from 
300 to 400 hands are employed. 

South-west of Pottsville the coal becomes more easi- 
ly ignited, and that at Peter's mountain, a few miles 
east of Donville, is said to contain bitumen. It is 
probable that the coal in that vicinity embraces, like 
the Wilkesbarre, much more inflammable gas than the 
Lehigh, which may have led to the supposition that it 
was bituminous. 



THE COAL MINES. 71 

Anthracite is found on several of the streams that 
discharge into the Susquehannah, on its eastern side. 
A large bed exists a few miles easterly from Berwick, 
and numerous veins occur from an elevated part of the 
Wilkesbarre mountain, to the Kingston and Shawnese 
mountains, that form the western border of the basin 
of Wyoming. Veins of coal in the vale of the lat- 
ter,* about 125 miles north-west of Philadelphia, are 
not only very numerous, occurring on almost every 
farm, but many are of imcommon thickness.f 

Extensive beds of coal are also found adjoining the 
head waters of the Lycoming creek ; and a Lycoming 
Coal Company has already been chartered, with a cap- 
ital of $250,000. This coal lies in horizontal veins ele- 
vated considerably above the ordinary level of the ad- 
jacent country, and is, of course, mined with much less 
difficulty than in many other districts. The state ca- 
nal up the west branch of the Susquehannah river in- 
tersects with the Lycoming creek, to the mouth of 



♦ The valley of Wyoming is rendered memorable in 
history from the bloody massacre of the white settlers by 
the Indians, commanded by Col. Butler during the rev- 
olution, and immortalized in song by the beautiful po- 
em of Campbell. The village of Wilkesbarre, on the 
Susquehannah river, has been built near the place of 
this massacre. Solomon's creek, a tributary stream, 
and which unites with the Susquehannah in this valley, 
contains two very romantic falls, a short distance from 
Wilkesbarre. 

fFor the preceding sketch of the coal region, the 
editor is mostly indebted to the Journal of Science and 
Arts, an invaluable work, published at New-Haven, 
Conn, by Professor Silliman. 
f2 



4^2 ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL MINES. 

which, the company are authorized to constnict a rail 
road, 20 miles in length. When completed, they will 
have an uninterrupted rail road and canal communica- 
tion to Philadelphia, distant, by land and water, 260 
miles. When the Columbia and Philadelphia rail road 
shall have been completed, this distance will be less- 
ened 40 miles. This mine is advantageously located 
for supplying the city of New- York and the south-wes- 
tern part of the state, and will doubtless prove of great 
value to the company. 

Route to the Schuylkill Coed MineSf by canaL 
Boats leave Philadelphia daily for Mount Carbon, 
and though the progress by canal is somewhat tardy, 
the tourist will nevertheless find himself amply com- 
pensated by selecting this mode of conveyance, in the 
rich and diversified scenery which awaits him. From 
Philadelphia to the Fairmount Dam, the Schuylkill is 
lined with newly erected wharves ; and every thing in- 
dicates the great advantages w^hich are daily resulting 
to a numerous population from the internal improve- 
ments of the state. 

Manatunk, the first village on the route, worthy of 
note, was commenced in 1819 ; since which it has 
grown with much rapidity, and contains several exten- 
Bive manufactories and a number of handsome dwell- 
ings. Shortly after passing Manayunk, the canal en- 
ters a basin connected with the river, which is used for 
boats until reaching the 

Plymouth Locks, where the canal is about two 
thirds of a mile long ; when it again enters the river. 



ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL MINES. 73 

Near these locks is a large spring, from which suffi- 
cient water flows to turn a mill. 

NoRRisTOWN, 16 miles above Philadelphia, is hand- 
somely located on the north bank of the Schuylkill. It 
is the capital of Montgomery county, and contains a 
number of elegant dwellings. It was formerly the res- 
idence of the celebrated Doct. Rittenhouse. 

PoTTSTOWN, or PoTTSGROVE, 18 miles above Norris- 
town, is a pleasant village on the east bank of the 
ri ver. 

Reading, 16 miles farther, and 51 from Philadelphia, 
located on the east side of the river, is the capital of 
Berk's county. It is a flourishing town, regularly laid 
out, and is inhabited principally by Germans. Its pop- 
ulation is between 4000 and 5000. Near this place the 
Union Canal, noticed at page 61, commences. Six 
miles from Reading is a cutting of 60 feet in depth 
through a solid rock ; the contract for which having 
been taken by a Mr. Duncan, the spot is called Dun' 
can^s Job. From this place to the Blue Ridg-e, the Scuyl- 
kill winds through a valley in which there is consider- 
able limestone, the fissures and cavities of which in 
some places rendered the formation of a retentive ca- 
nal difficult, 

Hamburgh is situated on the east side of the river, 
15 miles above Reading, near the Blue Ridge. It is a 
pleasant and thriving village, near which is what is 
called the Mountain Dam, 27 feet high. The passage 
of the Schuylkill and canal through the Blue Ridge is 
interesting and romantic. The moimtains bordering 



74 MOUi^T CARBON. 

the ravine are lofty and precipitous, presenting ledges 
of old and red sand stone, with coarse and fine silicioua 
gray wacke. The turnpike winds on the mountain 
side at a great elevation above the stream, giving to the 
traveller a subhme and varied scenery. The naviga- 
tion through the pass, or what is called the Schuylkill 
Water Gap, is effected by stone dams of magnitude and 
permanent construction ; and groups of locks, water 
falls and broad sheets of water are frequent. 

After passing the Water Gap, the next object of at- 
traction is the Tunnel, which has been bored through a 
hill 375 yards for the canal. The village of Orwisburgh 
is 3 miles farther ; from which to 

Mount Carbon or Pottsville is 8 miles. This 
place, centrally located in the coal region, has attained 
an astonishing growth within a very short period. In 
1824 it was a wilderness ; in 1829 it contained 223 ten- 
ements, and a population of 2700 inhabitants. It also 
contains a printing-office, from wliich a well conduct- 
ed weekly journal is issued, a reading room, and 7 or 8 
large public houses, which are constantly crowded with 
strangers. The town is destined to become a place of 
great business. 

The coal in this region has been described in the pre- 
ceding pages of this work. Besides the numerous fa- 
cilities afforded for its transportation by water, several 
rail-roads have been constructed, or are rapidly pro- 
gressing in the immediate vicinity of Mount Carbon. 
Among these are the Schuylkill Valley Rail Road, 10 
miles ; the Mount Carbon, 8 miles ; the Mill Creek, 3 
miles ; the West Branch, 17 miles ; and the Little 
Scluiylkill, 22 miles — making an aggregate of 61 miles. 



SCHUYLKILL COAL REGION. 75 

The Mount Carbon rail-road, which is nearly com- 
pleted, commences at the landing on the Schuylkill, 
and passes through Pottsville up to the heads of the 
Norwegian creek. From its commencement to its ter- 
mination, there is not a quarter of a mile in which it 
does not cross one or more veins of coal, at right an- 
gles. The whole valley watered by this creek, is redo- 
lent with coal of the finest quality, among which are 
the extensive veins of Messrs. White, Morris, Nichols, 
Offerman, Ridgeway, Wetherill and the North Ameri- 
can and New- York Companies ; the Centreville, Peach 
Mountain, Mulberry, Flowery Field and Mount Laugh- 
fee tracts on the east ; the Maderia, Mine Hill, and 
others on the west. 

The West Branch rail-road commences at Schuylkill 
Haven, and extends up to the confluence of the West 
and west W^est Branches of the Schuylkill, from whence 
branches are to follow the direction of the two streams 
to the foot of the Broad Mountain, making a distance, 
altogether, of about 17 miles. 

The Little Schuylkill rail-road extends to the river of 
that name, a branch of the principal stream. It rises 
20 miles north east of the Gap in the Blue Ridge, the 
place of its outlet. 

The amount of coal sent down the Schuylkill canal 
in 182S, was 47,417 tons ; in 1829 the quantity was in- 
creased to 78,783 tons ; and notwithstanding the vast 
supplies from the Lehigh and other mines, the quanti- 
ty was insufficient for the demand. It is supposed that 
the Schuylkill canal alone is capable of conveying to 
market from 350,000 to 400,000 tons annually. 



76 SCHUYLKILL COAL REGION. 

« 

Speaking of the coal region, and the rapid rise of vil- 
lages and increase of population in its vicinity, the 
Pottsville Journal of the 23d of January, 1830, says : 
" First on the list of fame and improvement is Port Car' 
bon, including the additions of Messrs. Lawton, Rhoads, 
Swift, Pott and Patterson. This was laid out about a 
year ago — it has now about sixty or seventy buidings, 
which will be more than doubled next season. This 
place will in the spring be enlarged by an addition of 
Mr. Coomb's, which is now being laid out by Mr. John 
Smith, jun., surveyor, on the south side of Schuylkill, 
between the upper landings and the first lock. This 
will contribute much to the facilities of the place, as it 
>vill include some fine landings, and a spacious basin 
will also be erected. 

" Pursuing our course up the route of the Valley Rail 
Road, we next come to Tuscarora, Middleport, Patter- 
son, New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora again. The 
three former places are at the intersection of the large 
latercJ road which leads up the creek tributary to the 
river — the latter is at the head of the main rail-road, 
built by Messrs. Lyons and Lawton. 

" Up the Mill Creek Rail Road, about two miles, we 
have St. Clairsville, and at its head New Castle, where 
the road from Port Carbon intersects the Centre Turn- 
pike. Both those places have extensive water powers, 
and are admirably located for mills, &c. 

" At the junction of the West Branch of the Schuylkill 
with the main river, Schuylkill Haven is a beautifully 
situated place, which will be the mart of all the im- 
mense coal region of the West and west West Branch- 
es J this location is destined to be the focus of an ex- 



ROUTE TO THE LEHIGH COAL MINES. 77 

tensive business. Minersville is another site on the 
same branch, nearly west of our place, (Potts ville.) 
This, from its situation among extensive colUeries, will 
soon become a populous place, as the residence of those 
engaged in the coal business. Further up, on the Broad 
Mountain, is Carbondale, which also promises to be a 
place of some importance. These are our principal lo- 
cations — many of them must become places of consid- 
erable importance. The immense accumulation of min- 
ing population, as well as others not directly engaged 
in the coal business, renders it necessary that they 
should congregate in the most favorable situations for 
the conveniences of society." 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines, 
From Orwisburgh, a stage can be taken to Mauch 
Chunk, at the Lehigh coal mines, a distance of 15 
miles in a north-eastwardly direction. This route is 
recommended to travellers from the south, designing a 
general visit to the coal region. From the north, the 
most direct route is, to pursue the line of the Morris 
canal from Newark, N. Jersey, to Easton, or the route 
from New- York to Schooley's Mountain, and from 
thence to Easton, proceeding up the Lehigh to Mauch 
Chunk. A very common route from Philadelphia to 
the Lehigh is by steam-boat to Bristol, 20 miles up the 
Delaware, and from thence by stage through Newton 
and New-Hope to Easton, 50 miles farther. This route 
is mostly on the bank of the Delaware, and passes 
through a pleasant section of the country, affording a 
rich and diversified scenery. 



78 MAUCH CHUNK. 

MAUCH CHUNK. 

The village of Mauch Chunk is situated on the west- 
em bank of the Lehigh, in a deep romantic ravine, be- 
tween rocky mountains that rise in some parts precipi- 
tously to 800 or 1000 feet above the stream. Space was 
procured for dwellings by beaking down the adjacent 
rocks, and by filling a part of the ravine of the Mauch 
Chunk creek. A portion of this stream has been trans- 
ferred to an elevated rail-way, and is used to propel a 
grist mill. The village contains about 150 dwellings, 
belonging principally to the Lehigh Company, who 
have between 800 and 1000 men in their employ. 
Mauch Chunk seems by nature designed for a place of 
business, but as there is not sufficient room, owing to 
the approach of the mountains to the Lehigh, for a 
town of much size, the business of the place will most 
likely be confined pretty much to the shipment of coal. 

The Mauch Chunk Rail-Road leads from near the 
coal mines on the mountain down an inclined plane to 
the Lehigh river. It is eight miles long, and has been 
in operation 3 or 4 years. The sleepers on which the 
rails rest, as well as the rails, are of wood ; the latter 
plated with iron. Experiments have been made as to 
the velocity that might be obtained for the cars loaded 
with coal and the horses and mules to draw them back 
to the summit when the coal had been discharged ; and 
it has been found, that though the speed of the cars 
might be increased to thirty or forty miles an hour \\ith 
safety, yet the beasts, as well as the men who guided 
the cars, became in a few days sickly, on account of 



LEHIGH RR'ER. 79 

the rapid and confused appearance of objects as they 
were passed on the way. The directors of the com- 
pany have therefore been compelled to limit the veloci- 
ty of the cars to 14 miles an hour in their descent, to 
obviate the disagreeable consequences of the more rap- 
id motion. Pleasure carriages sometimes go up this 
rail-way witli strangers ; but the more common prac- 
tice is to go up in the returning cars. The road gen- 
erally passes along a narrow shelf, with precipices on 
its side not unfrequently of from 300 to 600 feet. At 
the end of the rail-road, the cars are let down to the 
river on an incUned plane of 700 feet, equal to a perpen- 
dicular descent of 200 feet. 

A tunnel, 12 feet high, 20 wide and nearly 800 long, 
was cut through the mountain by the company in 1826, 
for the purpose of shortening the passage to a bed of 
coal supposed to lie on the other side. This labor was 
lost, as no coal was found in the direction of the tunnel. 
The beds belonging to the company, however, are in- 
exhaustible in other directions. 

The Lehigh Canal was noticed at page 67. The 
Lehigh River is a copious rapid stream, and rises by 
various mountain branches forty miles north-west of 
Mauch Chunk, which unite below Stoddartsville, (to 
which place it is designed to extend the navigation,) 25 
miles above Mauch Chunk. The fall of the river be- 
tween these two places is 845 feet. Eleven miles be- 
low Mauch Chunk, it passes through the Kittatinny 
range of mountains, and in the intermediate space falls 
245 feet. From the Lehigh Water Gap, or passage thro' 
the Kittatinny, to its junction with the Delaware at 

G 



80 LANDING — LEHIGHTON. 

Easton, 35 miles, it falls 205 feet ; making the entire 
fall from Stoddartsville 1210 feet. To overcome the 
descent from Mauch Chunk to Easton, 21 dams and 
52 locks have been found necessary. They are located 
at the head of rapids, enabling the navigator to com- 
mand an artificial freshet, when the stream from its 
dispersion would not otherwise admit of the passage of 
boats. Water from the dam is copiously admitted in- 
to a rail- way that extends to the foot of the rapid. The 
gates are attached by hinges to the bottom of the lock, 
and rise by the force of water admitted from a floom, 
constructed parallel with the lock, and remain suspend- 
ed, forming a section of the dam. If the gate of the 
iloom is closed, the water between the gates passes off, 
and they fall by their own weight and the pressure of 
the water from the dam. 

The Landing, or Lausanne, above Mauch Chunk, 
from its location at the head of the navigation, and 
at the commencement of the turnpike road leading 
to the Susquehannah, will in a short time become 
a place of deposit for merchandize and produce, destin- 
ed to and from the upper country. The Nesquehoning 
creek here empties into the Lehigh, and will tend much 
to bring the town forward and render it a place of bu- 
siness, as from the extensive water power which tliis 
stream affords, manufactories canbeestabhshed at com- 
paratively a very small expense. Eight ^miles below 
Mauch Chunk is the pleasant village of 

Lehighton. The ground plot of the town is laid out 
upon an elevated piece of table land, and the lots are 
sufficiently large to afford an extensive garden and yard 



LEHIGH WATER GAP BETHLEHEM. 81 

to each dwelling. The village commands a prospect 
of the river and canal ; the valley in which the town 
of Weiss Port is located ; the Blue Mountain in the 
distance, and a nearer view of the Mahoning mountain 
and the Lehigh hills. The Mahoning creek flows at 
the foot of the Mahoning mountain, and empties into 
the Lehigh within half a mile of the village, where has 
been discovered a mineral spring, the waters of which 
have proved highly beneficial in many cases of disease 
and debility. 

The Lehigh Water Gap is 3 miles farther. The 
river is here confined within very narrow limits, being 
bounded on either side with the bold and precipitous 
Kittatinny mountains. The scenery is in a high de- 
gree wild, picturesque and frequently sublime. Be- 
low the mountains the features of nature are less 
magnificent, but still follow in a romantic succession 
of strongly contrasted and elegant landscapes. 

Bethlehem is 11 miles from the Water Gap. It is a 
settlement of the Moravians, or United Brethren. The 
situation is healthful and pleasant, and it is a place much 
resorted to in the summer months. The church belong- 
ing to the society, is one of the largest in the state, 
though exhibiting in its structure much plainness. 
From its steeple, a very beautiful, picturesque and ex- 
tended view can be obtained. In one direction the 
scene stretches for upwards of 20 miles along the course 
of the Lehigh and the Water Gap, the wandering ex- 
plorations of the eye terminating at the Blue Mountain 
range. 



82 EASTON. 

When a death occurs, a part of the choir ascend the 
steeple, where a requiem or funeral hymn is sung for 
their departed brother or sister. The body is subse- 
quently placed in what is termed the " corpse house," a 
building detached from all others, where it remains 
three days, typical of the death and burial of the Sav- 
iour, and then is interred in the church yard. This is di- 
vided into various departments and methodically arran- 
ged, though with much plainness and simplicity. 

The society take charge of their own poor, of which, 
however, there are very few ; a strong argument in fa- 
vor of their regulations. 

The town is supphed with water from the Monockosy 
creek. The works are said to be the oldest in the 
state, having been in operation more than eighty years. 
Those at Fairmount, Philadelphia, are constructed upon 
similar principles. The house where Gen. La Fayette 
lay during his recovery from the wound he received at 
the battle of Brandywine, is pointed out here. His 
nurse on that occasion has continued to reside in the 
place ever since, and received a visit from him wheri he 
was last in this country. 

E ASTON is 12 miles from Bethlehem, and is the capi- 
tal of Northampton county, Penn. It is located on the 
Delaware river, innnediately above the entrance of the 
Lehigh, in a valley between the Musconetcunk moun- 
tains. Several rude and isolated hills stand in the val- 
ley, commanding extensive views and giving to the 
place a picturesque appearance. The town is tasteful- 
ly laid out, with an open square in the centre, and con- 
tains several handsome dwellings. Its public buildings 



MORRIS CANAL. 8S 

are a court house, jail, poor house, 3 churches, a bank 
and an academy. A bridge extending across the Dela- 
ware at this place cost $60,000. There is also a chain 
bridge across the Lehigh. 

The location of Easton is highly favorable for trade ; 
and it will ultimately become one of the most important 
towns in the state. Besides the great advantages here 
possessed for manufacturing purposes, and the contigu- 
ity of the place to the Delaware and Lehigh rivers, it is 
the point at which three important canals, the Dela- 
ware, the Lehigh and the Morris, when completed, will 
concentrate. The two first liave been already noticed. 
(See pages 65 and 67.) 

The Morris Canal extends from Easton to Newark, 
N. Jersey, a distance of 86 miles, and from thonce to 
Powle's Hook, opposite New- York, 8 miles further, 
lockage 1600 feet, which is to be surmounted by inchn- 
ed planes. The eastern section of this canal was com- 
pleted in 1829. From Newark to Patterson, the coun- 
try through which the canal passes is beautiful. At the 
latter place, a view of the extensive manufactories is 
had, located on the north. On the south, the canal for 
some distance is bounded by mountainous rugged cliffs, 
the rocky excavations through which were attended 
with great labor and expense. Four miles above Pat- 
terson is what is called the Grand Aqueduct across the 
Passaic river at the Little Falls. This aqueduct may 
justly be ranked, for its admirable construction, work- 
manship, space of the arch and elevation, with the 
greatest object? of curiosity in artificial navigation, and 
altogether may be considered superior to anv thing of 
g2 



84 ROUTES FROM EASTON. 

the kind in this country. Half a mile further is an 
aqueduct across the Pompton river, a work of consid- 
erable magnitude. The whole route, indeed, from 
Newark to Easton is interesting ; and when the canal 
is completed, which is contemplated the present season 
(1830) it will not only greatly lessen the price of Lehigh 
coal at New- York, but will be frequently used by stran- 
gers as the travelling route between the coal region 
and that city. 

From Easton to the Delaware Water Gaj), the distance 
is 23 miles. The route proceeds up the river to Rich- 
mond, 14 miles ; from thence to Williamsburgh, 4 
miles ; and from the latter place to the Water Gap, 5 
miles. The current of the stream is here contracted at 
the base of two lofty mountains in opposite directions, 
between which the passage is extremely narrow. It is 
supposed that here was formerly a barrier over which 
the river flowed in the form of a cataract, which was 
subsequently worn away, leaving a smooth unruffled 
current. The scene is wild and highly mterestincr. 

From Easton to the Delaware Wind Gap, an important 
passage through the Blue Mountains, is 12 miles, in a 
northwardly direction. 

From Easton to Schoohfs J\Iotintain, and thence to J^'ew- 
York, the whole distance is 71 miles, as follows : 



Miles. 
From Easton to Phil- 
ipsburgh, 1 



Miles. 

Morristown, *. . 6 

Passaic river, 7 



Top of Schooly's Newark, 11 



Mountain, 24 

Mendham, 12 



New- York, 10 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 85 

Schooly's Mountain, in New-Jersey, is a place of 
fashionable resort from New- York, in the summer 
months, owing to its cool, airy and, healthful situation, 
and to the extensive prospect afforded from its top ; on 
which there is an excellent public house. Within a 
mile of its summit there are mineral springs, which 
are usually resorted to by visitants at the mountain 
house. 

Newark, N. J. which is located on the route, and 
which is witliin 10 miles of that city, is one of the most 
elegant villages in the union. It is situated near the 
west bank of the Passaic river, 3 miles from its mouth, 
and is laid out in regular streets, the principal being 
200 feet wide. The public square, near the centre, is 
very handsome, and is surrounded by a number of ele- 
gant private dwellings. The public buildings in the 
place are a court house, jail, two banks, an academy and 
six churches. The population is between 6000 and 
7000. 

Having thus far diverged from the usual route to the 
north, for the purpose of describing the coal region, and 
the most interesting natural and artificial objects con- 
nected therewith, we return to Philadelphia, to resume 
the regular excursion. 

FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

The routes and modes of conveyance being various, 
we give a sketch of each, that the traveller may make 
such selection as shall be most agreeable. 

BY LAND AND WATER. 

Variety 1. By the Trenton and Meui-Bnmsxoiclt 
steam-boat line. — A steam-boat is taken at Philadelphia 



86 FROM PHTLADBLPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

at 6 A. M. which proceeds up the Delaware, touching 
at Burlington, N. J. distant 18 miles, Bristol 1 mile, 
Bordentown 9 miles, to Trenton 5 miles farther. Here 
a stage is taken for New-Brunswick, N. J. 26 miles 
from Trenton, the route passing through Lawrenceville 
6 miles, Princeton 4 miles, Kingston 2 miles, from 
whence to New-Brunswick is 14 miles. A steam-boat 
is again taken, which touches at Amboy 1 3 miles, Eliz- 
abethtown Point 12 miles, from whence to New- York 
is 10 miles. The whole distance on this route is 94 
miles, and the boats run daily, starting from each city 
at the same hour in the morning. 

Variety 2. By B(yrdentoion and South-Amhoy. — Boats 
leave at 6 A. M. and land passengers at Bordentown, 
28 miles distant, from whence a stage is taken, passing 
through Cranberry 15, Spottiswood 10, South-Amboy 
8, to North- Amboy 2 miles. A steam-boat is here tak- 
en, which passes Elizabethtown Point as before. The 
whole distance on this route is 85 miles, and is per- 
formed between the two cities by day-light. 

Variety 3. By Staten Island. — ^The route is the same 
as that mentioned in Variety 1 to New-Brunswick ; 
from whence a steam-boat is taken, passing Wood- 
bridge 10, Staten Island Sound (new ferry) 4, Castle- 
ton 7, Lazaretto 1, to New- York 5 miles. Whole dis- 
tance 84 miles. The A-iew afforded of Staten Island 
and its scenery on this route is unusually fine and in- 
teresting. 



NEW-JERSEY. 



87 



LAND ROUTE — 94 milcs. 



Miles. 
From Philadelphia to 

Rising Sun, 4 

Milestown, 3 

Tacony creek, 2 

Jenkintown, 2 

Abington, 1 

Willowgrove, 2 

Hatborough, 2 

Cross Roads, 4 

Neshaminy Bridge, . . 3 

Greenville, 5 

Great Spring, 3 

New Hope, 2 



Miles. 
Cross the Delaware to 

Lambertsville, N.J. 1 

New Meeting, 3 

OldRingos, 3 

Rariton Bridge, 14 

Somerville, 4 

Roundbrook, 4 

Plainfield, 6 

Scotch Plains, 3 

Springfield, 6 

Camptown, 4 

Newark, 3 

New- York, 10 



This route may be varied so as to pass through New- 
Brunswick ; or it may be continued up the Pennsylva- 
nia side to Easton, and from thence by Schooly's 
Mountain to New- York. (See p. 84.) 

The prices of fare from Philadelphia to New- York 
vary from $2 to $3.50, and the route is usually per- 
formed in 12 hours. 



THE STATE OF NEW-JERSEY, 
Through which the route extends, is bounded on the 
north by New- York; east by New- York and the At- 
lantic ocean ; south-west by the Delaware Bay, which 
divides it fiom Delaware; and west by Pennsylvania. 
The south-east part of the state is low and sandy ; the 
middle part abounds with hills, and in the upper part 
there is a continuation of the Blue Ridge and South 
Mountains commencing in Pennsylvania. On the lat- 
ter chain is Schooly's Mountain, noticed at page 85. 
The principal towns through which the traveller gen- 



88 BURLINGTON — TRENTON. 

erally passes are Burlington, Bristol, Bordentown, 
Trenton, Princeton and New-Brunswick. 

Burlington is the capital of the county of the same 
name, is 12 miles below Trenton and 18 above Phil- 
adelphia. It is delightfully situated, and contains some 
handsome public and private houses. 

Bristol is on the opposite side of the Delaware, 19 
miles from Philadelphia, in Bucks county, Pennsylva- 
nia. This place contains several fine residences, and is 
an attractive and interesting country village. Some of 
its flower gardens, which are unusually elegant, and 
located on the margin of the river, add much to the 
beauty of its appearance. 

Bordentown, 24 miles from Philadelphia, and 6 be- 
low Trenton, is noted as the residence of the Count de 
Survilliers, the ex-king of Spain, whose elegant mansion 
was within a few years burnt by accident, but is now 
rebuilt with additional embellishment and magnifi- 
cence. His villa commands a fine view of the river. 
The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of 
culture and art, his residence now exhibits an appear- 
ance of taste and munificence worthy the princely for- 
ture and dignity of its proprietor. From Bordentown 
a staae route is established to South-Amboy. (See 
p. 86.) 

Trenton, the capital of the state of New-Jersey, is 
situated on the Delaware river, 30 miles from Philadel- 
phia. It contains about 4000 inhabitants, a state house, 
two banks, and six houses of public worship. At Tren- 



PRINCETON. 89 

ton the steam-boat navigation on the Delaware ter- 
minates. The river here forms a considerable rapid or 
falls, near which is an elevated bridge, about a quarter 
of a mile long, neatly roofed, and the sides enclosed to 
secure it from the weather. The distance between 
Trenton and New-Brunswick is passed by an excel- 
lent line of post-coaches, which leave the former place 
immediately on the arrival of the boat. This route af- 
fords the traveller a fine view of the most fertile section 
of the state; and, making all allowances for roads, 
which are ordrnary, it is, in other respects, by no means 
devoid of interest. 

This section of New- Jersey is full of interest. Some 
of the most important scenes of the revolution, and 
those which gave a point and character to the Amer- 
ican war, here transpired at the most gloomy period of 
that contest. It was for a length of time in the pos- 
session of the English, and was the theatre of much 
carnage and bloodshed. The capture of a detachment 
of English and German troops in December, 1776, at 
Trenton, M'as the first signal victory that crowned our 
arms in the revolutionary contest. It cheered the droop- 
ing and depressed spirits of our little army, and impart- 
ed new vigor to the cause of liberty. The retreat of 
Washington with his troops, from Trenton, considering 
the circumstances which surrounded him, and the se- 
crecy with which it was accompUshed, may be justly 
contemplated as one of the most successful movements 
of that eventful period. 

Princeton is located on an elevated piece of land 10 
miles from Trenton, 16 from New-Brunswick, 40 from 



90 STATEN ISLAND. 

Philadelphia, and 50 from New-Xork. It overlooks 
an extensive prospect, and is a very handsome village. 
It contains a college, theological seminary, a presbyte- 
rian church, and about 100 dwelling houses. The col- 
lege of New- Jersey was founded in 1738. It has a 
president, 3 professors, and 2 tutors. 

The theological seminary was established in 1812, 
by the general assembly of the presbyterian church. 
It has 3 professors, a respectable library, and upwarsds 
of 100 students. 

In the college yard are the remains of the presidents 
of the institution. Burr, Edwards, Davis, Finley, With- 
erspoon and Smith. 

New-Brunswick is the starting place for the New- 
York steamboats. In this village is the theological 
seminary, under the direction of the synod of the Dutch 
reformed church. The village also contains a court 
house, gaol, a college edifice, and five churches. 

Perth Amboy is 13 miles from New-Brunswick, 35 
south-west of New- York, and 74 north-east of Phil- 
adelphia. Its harbor is one of the best on the conti- 
nent, audits shipping in 1816 amounted to 10,899 tons. 

Elizabethtown, 12 miles in a south-westwardly di- 
rection from New- York, is pleasantly situated on a 
creek emptying itself into Staten Island Sound. A 
steamboat plies between the point and New- York. 

Staten Island, constituting the county of Rich- 
mond, is 14 miles long and 8 wide. It was the resi- 
dence of the late vice-president Tompkins, and con- 
tains several deUghtful country seats. 



NEW-YORK. 01 

On approaching New- York, the most prominent ob- 
jects that meet the eye, are Fort La Fayette, Castle 
Williams, the lofty spires of Trinity and St, Paul's 
churches, and the Catholic cathedral. 

NEW-YORK. 

This city is situated on the point of York Island, at 
the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, in lati- 
tude 40. It was founded by the Dutch, in 1615, under 
the name of New- Amsterdam, and was incorporated by 
the British in 1696. The island on which it stands is 
15 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. The city 
is situated on the south part of the island, and extends 
along the Hudson about 2 miles, and from the Battery 
along East river nearly 4 miles. The early settlements 
were commenced at and near the Battery, from wliich 
streets were extended without reference to order or 
regularity ; and this accounts for the seeming want of 
taste in laying out the streets towards the docks and 
harbor. 

The Battery is situated at the south-west point of 
the city, opposite to Governor's island. It is hand- 
somely laid out into gravel walks, and tastefully deco- 
rated with shrubbery and trees. It is much frequent- 
ed by the citizens in the warm season, as well for the 
purpose of partaking of the refreshing sea breeze, as 
for enjoying the prospect, which, from this place, in- 
cludes the harbor with its various shipping. Governor's 
island, Bedlow's island, and Ellis' island, on each of 
which are military stations, the shores of New-Jersey 
and Long Island, with the flourishing town of Brook- 
lyn, and the numerous country seats in its vicinity. 



93 NEW-YORK. 

Castlf. Garden, connected with the battery by a 
bridge, is much frequented during the summer evenings. 
It has a fine promenade, and is often rendered attract- 
ive by a display of fire works from its enclosure, and 
other amusements. 

Broadway, the most splendid street in the city, runs 
tlirough the centre and extends 3 miles in length and 
about 80 feet in width. It is the great and fashionable 
resort for citizens and strangers, and is much crowded 
during pleasant weather. In this avenue are Grace, 
Trinity and St. Paul's churches, the Adelphi Hotel, City 
Hotel, National Hotel, Franklin House, American Ho- 
tel, Washington Hall, Masonic Hall, and a variety of 
shops with elegant and extensive assortments of mer- 
chandize of every description. 

Opposite Trinity church, Wall-street opens, which 
contains the Exchange, most of the banks, together 
with the principal part of the brokers' and insurance 
offices. At the termination of Wall-street, is the Ton- 
tine coffee house, an extensive and handsome estabhsh- 
ment. 

On passing up Broadway still farther, is Cedar and 
Courtland streets, both of which lead to the Hudson 
river, where the steam-boats start for Albany. At the 
foot of Courtland-street is the ferry to Jersey city. A 
little further up is Fulton-street, on the corner of which 
and Broadway stands St. Paul's church. Fulton-street 
leads to the East river ; along the docks of which are 
the steam-boats for the New-England ports. A little 
below are the boats for Newport and Providence — 
above, for Brideport, Saybrook, Hartford, New-Lon- 



NEW-YORK. 93 

don and Norwich. The New-Haven boats lie at Fly 
market dock, still farther below. 

Above St. Paul's church is the Park and City Hall, 
situated in the centre of the city, the former containing- 
about 11 acres, which are ornamented with much taste, 
and enclosed by a substantial iron railing. It furnish- 
es a cool and fashionable resort for men of business and 
pleasure, after the fatigue and heat of a summer's day. 
On the right is the Park Theatre, and on the left Park 
Place, on the west side of which is Columbia College. 
The next street above Park Place is Murray, which 
leads to the Hoboken ferry. 

Of the public building-s, the most prominent and im- 
portant is the 

City Hall, the front of which is built of white mar- 
ble. It is 216 feet long, 105 feet broad, and, including 
the attic story, 65 feet high. The rooms for holding the 
different courts of law are fitted up in a rich and ex- 
pensive style. The room for holding the mayor's court 
contains portraits of Washington, of the different gov- 
ernors of the state, and many of the most celebrated 
commanders of the army and navy of the United States. 
The foundation stone of this building was laid in 1803, 
and the whole finished in 1812, at an expense of $500,- 
000. It is one of the most elegant edifices in America, 
and reflects great credit on the inhabitants for their 
munificence and taste. 

The Merchant's Exchange in Wall-street, is also 
a superb structure of white marble. Its front on Wall- 
street is 114 feet, and its depth, extending to Garden- 
street, 150 feet. The main body of the building is two 
stories high, besides the basement and an attic story. 



94 NEW-YORK. 

About two thirds of the basement is occupied for the 
post-office, including a spacious corridor for the con- 
venience of persons visiting the office, with entrances 
leading thereto from Wall and Exchange streets. The 
portico of the building, to which a flight of marble steps 
ascends, is ornamented with Ionic columns 27 feet 
high. In the centre is the Exchange, of an oval form, 
85 feet long, 55 feet wide and 45 feet high, surmounted 
with a dome, from wliich light is reflected. The whole 
is imposing, and affords a delightful promenade. From 
the Exchange are doors and passages leading to a com- 
mercial reading room and numerous newspaper and 
other offices within the edifice. From the attic story, 
a flight of stairs leads to a telegraphic room in the cu- 
pola, where signals are made, and returned from the 
telegraph at the Narrows, 7 1-2 miles distant. The 
height of the cupola above the attic story is 60 feet. 
The cost of this building, including the ground, was 
$230,000. It was commenced in 1S24, and completed 
in 3 years thereafter. 

The United States Branch Bank, in Wall-street, 
is an elegant white marble building, 60 feet in front. 
The lot on which it was erected cost {$40,000. 

Trinity Church, in Broadway, at the head of Wall 
street, from its antique appearance, generally attracts 
the notice of strangers. The first church on this spot 
was erected in 1696. Originally small, it was enlarged 
in 1737 ; but during the fire which destroyed the west 
part of the city in 1776, while the British troops were in 
possession, it was destroyed, and not re-built till 1788. 
The present building is of stone, in Gothic style, and 
much like the old one, except a diminution in size, and 



NEW-YOUK. 95 

has a eteeple 198 feet higli. It contains a chime of 
bells, the only set in the city, and an excellent organ. 

The cemetery surrounding it is ancient, and is enclos- 
ed by a substantial and costly iroa railing. No inter- 
ments have taken place in this cemetery for some years, 
owing to a law prohil^iting sepulture within the popu- 
lous parts of the city ; but it has been ascertained by 
authentic records kept, that more than one hundred and 
sixty thousand bodies have been here deposited (exclu- 
sive of the 7 years of the revolutionary war, when no 
records were kept) — an amount nearly equal to the 
present population of the city. Among the illustrious 
dead who repose in this hallowed spot are the remains 
of Gen. Hamilton and Capt. Lawrence. The monu- 
ment over the grave of the former contains the follow- 
ing inscription : 

" To the memory of Alexander Hamilton, the 
corporation of Trinity church has erected this mon- 
ument in testimony of their respect for the patriot of in- 
corruptible integrity, the soldier of approved valor, the 
statesman of consummate wisdom, whose talents and 
whose virtues will be admired by grateful posterity 
long after this marble shall have mouldered into dust. 
He died July 2, 1804, aged 47." 

Near this monument there is an inscription on a 

tomb so singularly and aflectingly beautiful, we cannot 

forbear to record it, and the emotions it awakened in 

the bosom of a stranger, (whose words we quote.) It is 

an oblong pile of masonry, surmounted by a slab stone, 

on which are deeply cut the following words : 

"MY MOTHER. 

Tlie trumpet shall soitnd and the dead shall rise." 
h2 



06 NEW-YORK. 

There are no other letters or characters to be found 
on the slab or pile. If there is one inscription in the 
thousand languages that are or have been of earth, fit- 
ted to retain its sublime meaning through every period 
of time up to the resurrection morning, it is this. The 
writer seemed aware that names would be forgotten 
and titles fade from the memory of the world. He, 
therefore, engraved the name by which he first knew 
her who gave him birth, on the stone — and the dearest 
of all names, that of mother, shall send a thrill through 
the heart of every one who may ever lean over this mon- 
umental pile. If any shall wish to know further of her 
who had a child to engrave her most enduring name up- 
on a rock, he is sublimely referred to the sounding of 
the trumpet and the rising of the dead, when he may 
know all. 

The monument to the memory of Capt. Lawrence, 
who was killed during the last war in an engagement 
between the U. S. frigate Chesapeake, which he com- 
manded, and the British frigate Shannon, represents a 
broken column, as emblematical of his premature death. 
It was erected at the expense of the corporation. 

St. Paul's Chapel is a superb structure further up 
Broadway, near the Park. It contains a portico of the 
Ionic order, consisting of four fluted pillars of brown 
Btone, supporting a pediment, with a niche in the cen- 
tre containing a statue of St. Paul. Under the portico 
is a handsome monument erected by order of congress 
to the memory of Gen. Montgomery, who fell at the 
storming of Quebec in 1775, and whose remains were 
brought to New- York and interred beneath the monu- 
ment in 1820. The spire of this church is 234 feet high ; 



NEW-TOR K. 07 

and the whole building is esteemed one of the best epo* 
cimens of architecture in the city. In the church yard 
adjoining is an elegant monument, recently erected to 
the memory of Thomas Addis Emmet, an eminent 
counsellor at law, and brother of the unfortunate Irish 
orator, Robert Emmet. The plinth of the monument is 
one entire block, 7 feet square and 12 inches thick. 
The Egyptian obelisk, standing on its base, is also in a 
single piece, and is rising of thirty two feet high. The 
face towards Broadway is embeUished with the Ameri- 
can eagle, sheltering a harp unstrung, with a medallion 
likeness of Emmet, and with two clasped hands, hav- 
ing stars around one wrist and shamrocks around the 
other. On the north side is a Latin and on the south 
an Irish inscription. 

St. John's Chapel, in Varick street, opposite Hud- 
son Square, is an elegant edifice, and the most expen- 
sive in the city, having cost more than $200,000. Ita 
spire is 240 feet in height. 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, 
in Mott street, is the largest religious edifice in New- 
York. It is built of stone, is 120 feet long, 80 feet wide, 
and is a conspicuous object in approaching the city 
from the east. 

There are nearly 100 other churches in the city, ma- 
ny of which were erected at a very considerable ex- 
pense, and are an ornament to the sections of the city 
in which they stand. 

Columbia College, above the City Hall, was char- 
tered in 1750 under the name of King's College. The 
edifice and grounds attached are extensive, and are ad- 
vantageously and handsomely located. The college 



98 NEW-YORK. 

contains a chapel, lecture room?, hall, library, musoum, 
and an extensive philosophical and astronomical appa- 
ratus. The Hon. William A. Duer, a gentleman of 
distinguished talents and learning, has been recently 
appointed president of the institution. 

The New- York Society Library, in Nassau street, 
was commenced in 1740, and at the commencement of 
the revolution contained 3000 volumes, which were de- 
stroyed or taken away by the British troops. It was 
re-established in 1789, and now consists of about 20,000 
volumes, many of which are very rare and valuable. 

The Athexeum, Broadway, corner of Pine street, 
contains a reading room, which is open daily, except 
Sundays. 

The New- York Institution is in therear of the City 
Hall. Its apartments are occupied by the Literary and 
Philosophical Society, the Historical Society, the Amer- 
ican Academy of Fine Arts, the Lyceum of Natural 
History, the American Museum, and the Asylum for 
the Deaf and Dumb. The Historical Society has a li- 
brary of 10,000 volumes, embracing many valuable 
works. 

Near the institution are the Savings Bank and Pan- 
orama Rotunda ; and a little further up Broadway, the 
New- York Hospital. The annual expenditure in this 
institution is about $40,000, and the annual number of 
patients from 140 to 180. 

The Park Theatre is a spacious edifice, adjoining 
the Park. It was originally built in 1798, at an expense 
of $179,000, was destroyed by fire in 1820, and re-built 
the following year. It is 80 feet long, 165 deep, and 55 



NEW-YOBK. 99 

high, and has generally been more liberally patronized 
than any other theatre in the city. 

The New-York Theatre, in the Bowery, displays 
much architectural beauty, and, among the modern or- 
naments of the city, stands pre-eminent. It has a front 
of 75 feet, is 175 feet deep, and 50 feet high. It enjoys 
a handsome patronage. 

Besides these places of amusement, there is a the- 
atre in Chatham street, and a circus in Broadway, be- 
tween Canal and Grand streets. 

PRINCIPAL HOTELS. 

The Adelphi Hotel, corner of Beaver street and 
Broadway, kept by Mr. John Ford, one of the propri- 
etors of the U. S. Hotel at Saratoga Springs, is an el- 
egant establishment, built of brick, and stuccoed. Its 
situation is in a most delightful part of the city, front- 
ing the Bowling Green and in full view of the Battery 
and harbor. It is six stories high, possesses spacious 
and airy accommodations, and contains several private 
parlors on the English plan, richly furnished, and ren- 
dered peculiarly desirable from the fine views present- 
ed, and the refreshing breeze which is experienced from 
the water. 

The Mansion House, 39 Broadway, is a commodi- 
ous establishment, pleasantly located, and enjoys a 
handsome patronage of genteel company. 

The City Hotel, a few doors north of Trinity church 
in Broadway, kept by Mr. Jennings, is an old and high- 
ly respectable establishment, and one of the most ex- 
tensive in the city, containing more than 100 parlors 



100 NEW-YORK. 

and lodging rooms, (many of them designed for private 
families) besides an assembly room, principally used 
for concerts. The rooms are furnished in the best 
style, and the house, from its central location and good 
accommodations, has always enjoyed an extensive pat- 
ronage.* 

The National Hotel, kept by Messrs. Underwood 
& Curtis, nearly opposite the City Hotel, is a large and 
excellent house, well furnished, and well supported. 

Franklin House, Broadway, corner of Day street, 
kept by Mr. Seymour, though not so extensive as some 
of the other establishments, is pleasantly located, fur- 
nished in good style, and enjoys a handsome patronage. 

The American Hotel is delightfully situated, front- 
ing the Park in Broadway, and is among the most fa- 
vored establishments in the city. It is five stories high, 
and extends on Barclay street to the college of Physi- 
cians and Surgeons. Its public and private parlours 
and lodging rooms, which are numerous, are furnished 
in the best style, and it is extensively patronized by a 
fashionable and respectable company. 

The Washington Hall is another extensive estab- 
lishment in Broadway, corner of Reed street, hand- 
somely fitted up and possessing excellent accommoda- 
tions. 

Besides these are Park Place House, Broadway, 
opposite the Park ; Pearl-Street House, Nos. 86 and 
88, Pearl street ; Niblo's Bank Coffee-House in Pine 



* Several of the principal bookstores and libraries are 
in this part of Broadway. 



NEW-YORK. !0l 

Street ; Tontine Coffee-House, corner of Wall and 
Water streets ; Tammany Hall, corner of Nassau and 
Frankfort streets, and several others of respectability, 
an enumeration of which will not be deemed necessary 
in this work. 

Private Boarding-Houses. The following are 
among the genteel and respectable private boarding- 
houses in Broadway, many of which are extensive, and 
fitted up in a style not inferior to the best hotels : M'ln- 
tyre's, No. 5 ; Mrs. Baker's, No. 13; Mrs. Wood's, No. 
24 ; Mrs. Chapman's, No. 33 ; Mrs. Casati's, No. 35 ; 
Street's, No. 36 ; Mrs. W. C. Barker's, No. 40 ; Mrs. 
Keese's, No. 52 ; Pearcy's, No. 5Q ; Mrs. Miller's, No. 
57 ; Mrs. Helme's, No. 58 ; Mrs. Mann's, No. 61 ; Mrs. 
Southart's, No. 65 ; Storer's, No. 66 ; Mrs. Waldron's, 
No. 126 ; Mrs. Rowland's, No. 140 ; Miss Wade's, No. 
110. 

The prices at these houses vary from $1 to $2 per 
day, and from $5 to $10 per week. 

In point of population, this city is the first in the 
United States, containing probably not less than 190,- 
000 inhabitants, and in respect of trade it is now and 
will probably continue the first commercial metropolis 
in America. Though it cannot vie with Philadelphia, 
in point of beauty and regularity. New- York exhibits 
an air of novelty and grandeur very imposing to a 
stranger. Its ever bustling streets and crowded 
wharves, indicate an uncommon spirit of commercial 
enterprize. Its local situation embraces every advan- 
tage for commerce ; and the canals, by opening an 
easy communication between the fertile regions of the 
west and north and the city of New-York, have pro- 
duced an astonishing change in its growth and prosper- 



102 



NEW-YOBK. 



ity. At no very distant period, New-York, with all its 
natural and artificial advantages, will probably become 
the greatest commercial metropolis in the world. 

The New-York and Liverpool Packets, which are 
fine vessels and elegantly furnished, sail from New- 
York, on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month ; 
and in returning, leave Liverpool on the same days. 
There are 20 ships in this line. Passage in the cabin 
30 guineas, including beds, bedding, wine, and stores 
of every description. 

The New- York and London Packets, touching at 
Cowes, sail from New- York on the 1st and 16th of ev- 
ery month ; and in returning, leave London on the 10th 
and 25th of each month. There are 8 ships in this hne. 
Passage to and from London, the same as to and from 
Liverpool, with similar accommodations. 

New- York and Havre (France) Packets, sail from 
New- York on the 1st and 15th of each month ; and 
from Havre on the same days. There are 12 sliips in 
this line. Passage to or from Havre, 140 dollars, in- 
cluding the same accommodations as in the London 
and Liverpool packets. 

Packets also sail from New-York for Savannah, once 
in each week — office 181 Front street ; for CharlestoHf 
every Thursday — office at the same place ; for J^eio-Or- 
leans, on the 1st and 15th of each month — office 62 
South street ; and for Boston, every Saturday. 

PUBLIC COACHES. 

Strangers visiting New- York are Uable to suffer from 
exorbitant exactions for coach hire. To guard against 
this, the corporation have licensed an adequate num- 



NEW- YORK. 103 

ber of hackmen, who may be found at several conven- 
ient stands in the city, each coach being numbered. 
The rules and regulations to which they are subjected, 
can be found in the " Picture of New- York and Stran- 
ger's Guide,"* a very useful and valuable directory, 
which should be in the hands of visitants. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Among the numerous places of fashionable resort in 
the vicinity of New- York, are Governor's, Bedlow's 
and Staten Islands, within the harbor ; Orange Springs, 
near Newark, Passaic Falls, Schooley's Mountain, Long 
Branch, Hoboken and Weehawk, in New-Jersey, on 
the west ; the tour of Long-Island, on the east ; and 
Manhattan-Island, on the north. 

The Passaic Falls are in Patterson, N. J. 22 miles 
north-west of New- York. The perpendicular pitch is 70 
feet into a narow and rocky chasm.f The scenery is 
wild and imposing ; and the falls are among the geat- 
est natural curiosities of this country. The Morris ca- 
nal, noticed at page 83, passes near them. 

Schooly^s Mountain, 50 miles west of New- York, was 
noticed at page 85. 

Long Branch, is 30 miles south of New- York, on the 
eastern shore of New-Jersey, and on the immediate 



♦Published by Mr. A. T. Goodrich, No. 124 Broad- 
way, who keeps an excellent circulating-Ubrary and 
map establishment. 

■fit was at this place that the celebrated Sam 
Patch commenced his jumping career, which finally ter- 
minated at the falls on the Genesee river at Rochester. 



104 BROOKLYN. 

bank of the Atlantic ocean, an extensive view of which 
is here obtained. A bathing establishment is erected, 
and the bank, which is elevated to a height of 30 or 
40 feet for several miles, affords a beautiful promenade. 
Sandy Hook and Neversink can be visited on this route, 
the heights of the latter affording an extensive view of 
the marine coast. 

Hoboken and Weehawk are on the west side of the 
Hudson river, opposite the northern parts of New- 
York, near which is the Hoboken duelling ground^ 
which cannot be easily approached, except in a boat. 
A monument was here erected some years since to the 
memory of Gen. Hamilton : but it has since been re- 
moved. 

Govern(yr''s and Bedlow^s Islands are usually approach- 
ed only in row boats, and are less frequented on that 
account. 

Staten Island, south of the city, was noticed at page 90. 

Brooklyn, (on Long-Island,) directly opposite New- 
York, from which it is separated by the East river, is 
usually reached by steam-boats which are constantly 
plying between the foot of Fulton street and that vil- 
lage. It is a large town, having a population of about 
15,000, and witliin a few years has arisen to much im- 
portance. Its contiguity to New- York, and the facil- 
ities afforded for communicating between the two pla- 
ces, have induced many merchants and men of busi- 
ness to select it as a place of residence in preference to 
the upper parts of the city. The village also contains 
several elegant country seats and public gardens. 
Those on the bank contiguous to the East river, from 
their elevated situation, overlooking the bay of New- 



MANHATTAN ISLAND, 106 

York, and commanding a view of a great part of the 
city, are peculiarly attractive and romantic. North- 
eastwardly of the village, on a tract of land called the 
Wallabout, is a U. S. navy yard, where are erected a 
house for the commandant, several spacious ware-hous- 
es, and an immense wooden edifice, under which the 
largest ships of war are built. The steam frigate Ful- 
ton, which lay near the navy yard, and which was an 
object of attraction, was blown up at this place in 1829, 
occasioning the loss of several lives. 

Brooklyn is intimately connected with important 
events of the revolution, and in its vicinity are pointed 
out some remaining vestiges of fortifications and mil- 
itary works erected during that eventful period. The 
road to Flatbush (4 miles east) crosses the ground on 
which the battle of the 27th July, 1776, was fought, 
which resulted in a severe loss to the An>ericans and 
the capture of Generals Sullivan and Sterhng. The 
marshes in which so many lives were lost in retreating 
from the British army, are south of this. 

From Brooklyn to Jamaica, a pleasant village, and 
the capitol of the county of Queens, is 12 miles ; and 
from thence to Rockaway, bordering on the Atlantic, is 
9 miles farther. The roads to this place being excellent, 
it is much resorted to in the summer months, A fine 
view of the ocean is obtained, which, from its unceas- 
ing roar and turbulence, is rendered unusually sublime. 

Mayihattan Islmid, on which New- York is located, is 
15 miles long, and on an average one and a half broad ; 
the Hudson river bounding it on the west, the Harlaem 
river on the north, the East river on the east, and the 
bay on the south. A tour of the island can he per- 
formed in a few hours, and will be found to be highly 



106 HURL GATE. 

diversified and interesting. Passing up on the west 
side, the Asylum for the Insane, on very elevated 
ground about 7 miles from the city, the heights of Fort 
Washington, Harlsem and Kingsbridge, are visited ; 
and in returning on the east side, Hurl Gate, the Aims- 
House and House of Refuge. 

Hurl Gate is a narrow and apparently a dangerous 
strait in the East river, in which, at low water, there 
are numerous wliirlpools or currents, occasioned by 
huge masses of rock projecting in various places, giv- 
ing to the river only a very contracted passage. At 
high water, these masses are more or less concealed, 
and the current is in a degree unruffled. Losses of 
vessels were formerly experienced here ; but none have 
been known in some years. To avoid the dangers, 
however, incident to the navigation, a project has been 
broached of opening a ship canal between Pot and 
Hallet's Coves. A survey of the proposed route has been 
made, and the result of the examination is, that the 
length of the canal, to secure a sufficient depth of wa- 
ter in the coves, will be 2439 running feet, viz. 470 of 
excavation below high water, 1369 of high upland with 
indication of rock, and 600 of salt marsh. As the 
tide rises and falls in Hallet's Cove several minutes 
sooner than in the Pot, (Hurl Gate,) it would be ne- 
cessary to have two pairs or gates at each extremity. 
A draw-bridge would also be necessary, to accommo- 
date the ferry road which communicates from the Point 
at Hallet's Cove with the New- York shore, at the foot 
of 87th-street. The maximum cost is rated at $162,- 
152 for the entire completion of a canal 137 feet in 
width at high water on the surface, 80 at bottom, and 



DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 107 

28 in depth, which would be Bufficiently capacious 
for a line of battle ship. It is, however, believed 
that a ship canal 17 feet deep at high water, 82 feet 
wide between the banks, and 40 at bottom, would be 
preferable ; in which case the cost of completion has 
been estimated at $54,548. 

DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 

From the collections of the New- York Historical So- 
ciety, we are enabled to glean the following sketch of 
the first discovery of the Hudson river ; which may not 
be uninteresting to tourists about to embark on its wa- 
ters : 

John D. Verrazzano, a Florentine, in the service of 
Francis I. of France, had been entrusted with the com- 
mand of four ships, in cruising against the Spaniards. 
These vessels being separated in a storm, the com- 
mander resolved, with one of them, to undertake a 
voyage for the discovery of new countries. About the 
middle of March, 1554, he accordingly arrived on the 
American coast, and after having visited the coasts of 
North- Carolina and Georgia, he directed his course 
northward, and entered the harbor of the present city 
of New-York. He describes the islands (Staten, Man- 
hattan, &c.) as " fruitful and pleasant, full of hie and 
broad trees, among the which islands any navie may 
ride safe, without any feare of tempest or other dan- 
ger." He stayed in the harbor about 15 days. 

Nearly a century elapsed before any farther discove- 
ries were made on this part of the continent. It was 
reserved for Henry Hudson to make the first voyage 
up the Hudson river. After having visited several har- 
i2 



109 DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 

bors, he entered the strait now called the Narrows on 
the 6th September, 1609. A boat was manned and des- 
patched by him to explore what appeared to be a river. 
In this service the boat's crew were engaged in the bay 
and adjacent waters during the day. On their way back 
to the ship, they were attacked by the natives in two 
canoes. A skirmish ensued, in which one of Hudson's 
men, named Colman, was killed by an arrow which 
struck him in the throat, and two more wounded. The 
next day the remains of Colman were interred on a 
point of land not far from the ship ; which, from that 
circumstance, received the name of Colman's Point, 
and which was probably the same that is now called 
Sandy Hook. 

On the 12th, Hudson first entered the river which 
bears his name, and sailed up about two leagues. He 
was visited by great numbers of the natives, who 
brought him Indian corn, tobacco, beans and oysters in 
great abundance. They had pipes of yellow copper, 
in which they smoked ; and earthen pots, in which 
they dressed their food. 

From the 12th to the 22d September, Hudson was 
employed in ascending the river. He describes it as 
abounding with great stores of salmon. In his passage 
he was visited by many of the natives, but always in 
an amicable manner. He sailed up, as is supposed, a 
little above where the city of Hudson now stands ; be- 
yond which be himself never ascended. From this 
place he despatched a boat, (not considering it safe to 
proceed farther with his vessel,) manned with five 
hands, which ascended the river, it is supposed, as far 
as where the city of Albany now stands?. 



\ 



DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 109 

During this excursion, Hudson gave to some of the 
Indians ardent spirits for the purpose of making an ex- 
periment on their tempers. He says they all became 
merry ; but only one was completely intoxicated. A 
tradition still exists among the six nations, that a scene 
of intoxication occurred when the first ship arrived ; 
having reference, doubtless, to this event. 

Hudson began to descend the river on the 23d of 
September, having frequent intercourse with the Indi- 
ans on his way down, from whom he experienced kind 
treatment, until he descended below the Highlands. 
Here they attempted to rob the ship, and repeatedly 
shot at the crew. He directed several muskets to be 
discharged at them, which killed ten or twelve. These 
conflicts occurred frequently during the 1st and 2d of 
October ; but none of the ship's crew were injured. 

On the 4th of October, one month from the time he 
first landed at Sandy Hook, he sailed out of the river 
and proceeded to sea, reaching England the 7th of No- 
vember following. 

Hudson did not give his own name to the river he 
discovered. It was called by the Iroquois Indians, 
Cahohatatea ; by the Mohiccans, Mahakaneghtuc, and 
'sometimes Shatemuck. Hudson styled it the " Great 
River," or the " Great River of the Mountains." The 
name of its discoverer, however, was given to it soon 
afterwards. 

Hudson, in a subsequent voyage for the East India 
Company, became a prey to the mutiny of his men in 
the bay which bears his name. He was forcibly put 
into a boat with his son and seven others, who were 
mostly invalids, and, in this manner, inhumanly aban- 
doned. They were never heard of more. 



1 10 FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY, 

A distance, by water, of 144 miles, and by land, 
measuring between the respective post-offices, of 160 
miles, a communication is alternately kept up by a line 
of stages in the winter season, and by steam-boats dur- 
ing the absence of the ice in the Hudson. The mo- 
nopoly which formerly existed in favor of the North 
River Steam-boat Company, has, by a decision of the 
United States Court, been done away ; the conse- 
quence of which has been to multiply the number of 
opposition steam-boats upon the Hudson, and to reduce 
the price of fare, which, at present, including board, is 
not over $3 to Albany, and in some of the boats not 
more than ^I. The following is a table of distances 
between the two places : 

DISTAXCE BY WATER FROM 



O 

o 
a 

o 



C3 



O 

"H. 12; < 

New- York, 144 

Wehawken, 6 6 138 

Palisadoes, southern termination, .. . 2 8 136 

Fort Washington, 4 12 132 

Tappan Bay, southern extremity, .. , 12 24 120 

SingSinsf, 8 32 112 

Haverstraw Bay, 2 34 110 

Stoney Point 5 39 105 

Terplank's Point, 1 40 104 

Horse Race, (Highlands,) 2 42 102 

Anthony's Nose, 3 45 99 

West Point, 5 50 94 



FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. U 1 



DISTANCE BY WATER FROM 

o 
o 

s S i^ 

,y ;S n 

Pollopel Island, 6 56 88 

Newburgh, 4 60 84 

Milton, 11 71 73 

Poughkeepsie, 4 75 68 

Hyde Park, 5 80 63 

Rhinebeck, 10 90 53 

Redhook, lower landing, 7 97 46 

Redhook, upper do 3 100 43 

Catskill, 11 111 32 

Hudson, 5 116 27 

Coxackie, 8 124 19 

Kinderhook, 1 125 18 

New Baltimore, 5 130 13 

Schodack, 4 134 9 

Albany, 10 144 

Boats leave New- York and Albany at 6 and 10 
o'clock A. M. and 5 P. M., and the trip is usually per- 
formed in from 12 to 14 hours. An early morning boat 
will prove the most interesting to those who have nev- 
er performed the route by day-light ; as it will afford 
an opportunity of witnessing the rich scenery and nu- 
merous villages and country seats between the two 
cities. 

All the boats stop at the principal places on the river 
for the purpose of landing and receiving passengers. 
Till within two or three years, accidents were not un- 
common at the landing places, owing to the continued 
motion of the boat ; but by a late law, captains and 



1 12 PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. | 

i 

masters are required to stop their boats, whenever pas- 
Bengers are landed or received on board. 

The spirit of accommodation which is manifested in 
all the boats, is owing probably to the rivalship exist- 
ing between them. Passengers are well entertained, 
and every attention is shewn that can contribute to 
their comfort and convenience. 

THE PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. 
Besides the pleasure of a steam-boat passage, the 
Hudson river presents to the tourist a variety of natu- 
ral scenery which it will be difficult to find elsewhere 
in a journey of the same extent. To the gratification de- 
rived from a prospect of the beautiful and sublime ob- 
jects of nature, the effect of the most striking contrast 
is added, to render the scene truly picturesque and en- 
chanting. On the one hand are seen summits, crown- 
ed with forests, apparently impenetrable to the foot- 
steps of cultivation, and on the other, beautiful and ex- 
tensive lawns, checkered with the abodes of husband- 
ry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer; 
while in the same circumstances of vision may be seen 
the fading view of some town or city, and in perspec- 
tive a perpetual opening scenery of forests and cultiva- 
tion, plains and mountains, towns and villages, impart- 
ing to the beholder all the charms of novelty, with the 
highest emotions of the sublime. 

Weehawken, about 6 miles from the city, on the 
west side of the river, is pointed out to the traveller as 
the ground on which Gen. Hamilton fell in a duel with 
Col. Burr. It is a small spot on the margin of the riv- 
er, with huge rocks on three sides, effectually screen- 



THE PALISADOES. 113 

ing it from the observation of man, except from the riv- 
er ; and probably has, for that cause, been selected as 
a suitable place for settling affairs of honor. Till with- 
in a few years, it contained a monument erected to the 
memory of Gen. Hamilton by the St. Andrews society ; 
but it has been removed. His body was deposited in 
the ground attached to Trinity church in the city, where 
there is a handsome monument, enclosed in an iron 
raihng. (See pages 95 and 104.) 

The Palisadoes, which make their first appearance 
on the Hudson, about 8 miles from New- York, are a 
range of rocks, from 20 to 550 feet in height, and ex- 
tend from thence to Tappan, a distance of about 20 
miles. In some places they rise almost perpendicular- 
ly from the shore, and form, for several miles in extent, 
a sohd wall of rock, diversified only by an occasional 
fishing hut on the beach at their base, or wood slides 
down their sides, and sometimes by an interval of a 
few acres of arable land, affording an opening for a land- 
ing place and a steep road leading to their top. On 
the opposite side of the river the land is varied by hill 
and dale, cultivated fields and woods, with cottages 
and country seats. The land in this place, however, 
back from the river, rises in rocky hills, and becomes 
more precipitous as you advance into Westchester 
county. 

Twelve miles from New- York, the boat passes the 
site of Fort Lee, on the brow of the Palisadoes, at the 
height of 300 feet above the river ; nearly opposite to 
which, on a high hill on the east side of the river, 
stood Fort Washington. In October, 1776, after the 



114 TARRYTOWN. 

evacuation of New- York by the American troops, fol- 
lowed the battle of White Plains, by which name is 
known the high ground on the east, between the Hud- 
son river and the Sound above Kingsbridge, whence 
Washington retreated to Peekskill. Fort Washington 
was then taken by the Hessians and British, and the 
garrison, composed of 2600 militia and regular troops, 
surrendered prisoners of war. The surrender of Fort 
Lee followed soon after Washington crossed the Hud- 
son. There was also on the east side another fort, 
called Independence. 

Twenty four miles above New- York the river ex- 
pands and forms what is called Tafpan Bay. The lit- 
tle village of Tappan, a place of much note during An- 
dre's and Arnold's conspiracy, is situated on its western 
shore. The spot of Andre's grave is still pointed out 
near this village, though his remains, a few years since, 
were conveyed to England, by order of the British gov- 
ernment. This bay is from 2 to 5 miles wide, and 8 
miles long, terminating at Teller's Point. 

About a mile above Tappan village, on the eastern 
shore, is the village of Tarrytown, where Andre was 
captured by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, the 
American militia-men. Paulding died some years ago, 
and a monument was erected over his grave by the cor- 
poration of New- York. Van Wart died more recently, 
and a monument to his memory has been erected by 
the citizens of Westchester county. It is a neat struc- 
ture of white marble, consisting of a base of three as- 
cending steps, and a pedestal upon which stands an ob- 
ehsk ; in all being from fifteen to eighteen feet high. 
It stands by the road side, in a retired valley in the 



Paulding's monument. 115 

town of Greensburgh, about three miles east of Tarry- 
town. A little creek winds its way through the valley, 
bending round to the north in the course of a few miles, 
until it leaps into the bosom of the Hudson at Yonkers. 
The following inscriptions are copied from the pedestal 
of the monument : 

ox THE NORTH SIDE. 

" Here repose the mortal remains of 

ISAAC VAN WART, 

An elder of Greensburgh church, who died on the 23d of 

May, 1828, in the 69th year of his age. Having lived 

the life, he died the death of a christian." 

ON THE SOUTH SIDE. 

« FIDELITY. 
"On the 23d of September, 1780, Isaac Van Wart, 
accompanied by John Paulding and David Williams, all 
farmers of the county of Westchester, intercepted Maj. 
Andre, on his return from the American lines in the 
character of a spy ; and, notwithstanding the large 
bribes offered them for his release, nobly disdained to 
sacrifice their country for gold — secured and carried 
him to the commanding officer of the district, whereby 
the dangerous and traitorous conspiracy of Arnold was 
brought to light — the insidious designs of the enemy 
baffled — the American army saved — and our beloved 
country, now free and independent, rescued from most 
imminent peril." 

ON THE east side. 

" VINCIT AMOR PATRIiE. 
" Nearly half a century before this monument was 
built, the conscript fathers of America had, in the sen- 
ate chamber, voted that Isaac Van Wart was a faith- 

K 



116 THE HIGHLANDS. 

fill patriot — one in whom the love of country was hv- 
vincible — and this tomb bears testimony that the rec- 
ord 13 true.** 

ON THE WEST SIDE. 

•* The citizens of the county of Westchester erected 
this tomb in testimony of the high sense they entertain- 
ed for the virtuous and patriotic conduct of their fellow 
citizen, and as a memorial sacred to public gratitude." 

Near the northern extremity of Tappan Bay, on the 
eastern shore, is the Sing Sing state prison. It com- 
prises 800 dormitaries or solitary cells, is 4 stories high, 
and occupies about 50 by 500 feet of ground. From 
each end of the main building, which stands parallel 
with the river, in a westerly direction, are carried out 
wings, 300 feet in extent, forming a spacious inner 
yard open only to the river. The wings, composed of 
marble, are constructed for workshops, a chapel, kitch- 
en, hospital, &c. The chapel is of sufficient dimensions 
to hold 900 persons. The keeper's house, on the south 
eastern end of the main building, is also constructed of 
marble. The number of convicts in the prison in 1829, 
was about 600. Its erection was commenced in 1825 j 
and its cost is estimated at rising of ^200,000* 

Haverstraw Bay commences 34 miles from New- 
York, and terminates at Stoney and Verplanck's Points • 
being about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in width. 
Haverstraw village is on the west side of this bay. 

The Highlands, or Fishkill Mountains, which first 
appear about 40 miles from New- York, will attract no- 
tice, not only from their grandeur and sublimity, but al- 
so from their association with some of the most impor- 



THE HIGHLANDS. 117 

tant events of the revolution. This chain of mountains 
is about 16 miles in width, and extends along both sides 
of the Hudson, to the distance of 20 miles. The height 
of the principal has been estimated at 1565 feet. Ac- 
cording to the theory of Doctor Mitchell, this thick and 
solid barrier seems in ancient days to have impeded the 
course of the water, and to have raised a lake high 
enough to cover all the country to Quaker Hill and the 
Laconick Mountains on the east, and to Shawangunk 
and the Catskill Moimtains on the west ; extending to 
the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to Hadley Falls on 
the Hudson — but by some convulsion of nature, the 
mountain chain has been broken, and the rushing wa- 
ters found their way to the now New- York bay. At 
the entrance of the Highlands, on the south, is the eito 
of an old fort on Verpiank's Point, opposite to which 
stood the fort of Stoney Point, which was taken from 
Gen. Wayne in 1778, and re-taken by him the same 
year. About two miles north of this, what is termed the 
Horse Race commences. This consists of an angle in tho 
river, which, for a little more than a mile, takes an east- 
wardly direction, contracted to a very narrow space 
within bold and rocky mountains ; one of which, An- 
thony's Nose, is 1228 feet high, and is opposite the 
mouth of Montgomery creek, overlooking Forts Mont- 
gomery and Chnton. These forts, under command of 
Gen. Putnam, were captured by the British troops un- 
der Sir Henry Clinton in 1777, when on his way to co- 
operate with Gen. Burgoyne, the news of whose surren- 
der, however, reached Sir Henry when he had proceed- 
ed as far as Kingston, 50 miles higher up, and changed 
his advance into a retreat. Bloody Pond, so called, 



118 WEST POINT. 

from its being the place in which the bodies of the slain 
were thrown after the defences of these forts, is in the 
rear of Fort Clinton. 

West Point, one of the most impregnable posts dur- 
ing the revolutionary war, is situated on the west 
side of the Hudson, near the entrance of the High- 
lands on the north. It formed one of the most im- 
portant fastnesses of the American army during the 
eight years contest with the British nation ; and the 
consequence attached to it, in a military point of view, 
was evinced by the repeated but unsuccessful efforts of 
the enemy to obtain it. It was here that Arnold con- 
ceived the horrid purpose of bartering his country for 
gold. This conspiracy, hoAvever, which aimed a death 
blow at liberty in the western hemisphere, resulted on- 
ly in the universal contempt and ignominy of Arnold, 
and in the lamented death of the unfortunate Andre. 
There are here at present a number of dwelling-houses, 
and a military academy, built on the plain which forms 
the bank of the river, 18S feet in height, to which a road 
ascends on the north side of the point. In the back 
ground, and elevated on a mass of rocks 598 feet in 
height, is the site of Fort Putnam. Silence and decay 
now mark the spot of this once formidable fortress. Its 
mouldering ruins, however, convey a pretty correct 
idea of the impregnable barrier its ramparts once pre- 
sented to the enemies of freedom. 

The Military Academy here established by con- 
gress, was first oi-ganized under the direction of the late 
Gen. Williams, in 1802. Of the number of applicants 
for admission to this institution, a preference is usually 



J 



WEST POINT. 



119 



given, first, to the song of officers of the revolution ; 
and secondly, to the sons of deceased officers of the 
late war. None are admitted under the age of 14 years, 
nor above the age 22. The number of cadets is limited 
to 250, each of whom costs the government $336 annu- 
ally ; and the whole establishment is maintained at 
an annual expense of $115,000. In addition to the va- 
rious sciences which are taught here, the cadets are 
instmcted in all the practical minutioe of tactics ; com- 
prehending the lowest duties of the private soldier, as 
well as the highest duties of the officer. They are al- 
so required to encamp for 6 or 8 weeks in a year ; dur- 
ing which time they are instructed in the manner ol 
pitching and striking tents, in the various infantry ev- 
olutions, and in all the details of the camp. 

The following table, shewing the number of cadets, 
who had entered and left this academy from its organi- 
zation to Sept. 2, 1823, may not be uninteresting to 
many of the readers of these pages : 



ta 

a 



n3 








o 




• 




c- 




TS 














T) 


tn 






<U 


;-! 




s 


tl) 




^ 


s 


'w 


o 




o 


o 






O 


C5 


Q 


Q 



Maine, 20 

New-Hampshire, 30 

Massachusetts, 91 

Connecticut, 39 

Rhode Island, 14 

Vermont, 48 

New-York, 218 

New-Jersey, 30 

Pennsylvania, 110 

k2 



3 


6 


2 




17 


6 


2 




53 


32 


3 


2 


27 


9 


1 




5 


4 


2 




38 


8 


3 


2 


107 


69 


29 


3 


14 


10 


3 




42 


43 


17 


2 



9 
9 

12 
8 
4 
4 

32 
7 

26 



120 



WEST POINT. 





^ 










i 




• 






a 




■^ 




■73 


"w 


ID 


be 




O 


m 


O 




-•-> 


p 


C 


ej 






p 


fcf; 


"o 




'O 


O 


o 


a: 


O) 


<! 


O 


Qi 


Q 


■q 



bO 

c 
'S 
"3 
S 



Delaware, 

Maryland, 

Virginia, 

North Carolina, 

South Carolina, 

Georgia, 

Kentucky, 

Tennessee, 

Ohio, 

Indiana, 

Louisiana, 

Alabama, 

Mississippi, 

Illinois, 

INIissouri, 

Michigan, 

Arkansas, 

England, 

Florida, 

District of Columbia,, 
Not Designated, 



18 

75 

140 

62 

50 

31 

59 

39 

44 

14 

11 

8 

9 

7 

14 

6 

2 



61 
35 



6 


7 


2 




31 


29 


11 


I 


49 


63 


24 


l' 


18 


30 


7 


1 


21 


27 


3 




8 


13 


2 


2 


16 


22 


11 




10 


15 


7 


3 


15 


13 


7 


1 


5 


6 


2 




4 


4 


2 




2 


2 


3 




4 


4 






2 


1 


2 




8 


5 


2 




3 


2 








1 


1 




1 


1 
1 






24 


27 


5 


2 


1 


18 


9 





4 

12 

20 

13 

7 

9 

17 

8 

14 

4 

3 

3 

2 

3 

1 

2 

1 



Total, 



1289 1 5401 4771 162|202| 39 



The report of the Board of Visiters to this institution 
in 1829, -was highly creditable to the superintendant, 
Col. Thayer, and the officers and cadets. As impor- 
tant appendages to the present buildings, the board re- 
commend the erection of one for military and other ex- 
ercises in winter and bad weather, and a house for pub- 
lic worship. 

Several of the buildings at West Point arc elegant, 
and among the number may be ranked a new and spa- 



WEST POINT. 121 

cious hotel. It has been erected in a style and on a 
scale which render it a great ornament to the grounds. 
It is substantially built of stone, painted yellow, and the 
lower story is surrounded on its sides with extensive 
piazzas, forming a dehghtful promenade. Its rear is 
upon the Hudson, and presents a delightful view up the 
river through the Highlands. The front faces the pa- 
rade ground and the ground used for the encampment. 

In the morning, the cadets drill as artiller}', in front 
of the camp. The system followed is that of Lalle- 
mand. The drill of the afternoon is that of infantry. 
But the principal attraction to the visiter is the morn- 
ing and evening parade, in which the whole battalion, 
with the exception of the guard, is drawn out and car- 
ried through the manual, by the officer commanding. 

Near the north eastern extremity of the grounds, at 
the projecting point forming the abrupt bend of the 
river, stands a monument of white marble, consisting 
of a base and short column, on the former of which is 
simply inscribed on one side, " Kosciusko," it having 
been erected to the memorj^ of that distinguished patri- 
ot, who resided here. Another monument stands on 
the N. W. corner of the grounds near the road from the 
landing to the hotel, upon a small hillock. It is a plain 
obehsk about 20 feet high, erected by Gen. Brown to 
the memory of Col. E. D. Wood, a pupil of the institu- 
tion, who fell leading a charge at the sortie from Fort 
Erie, on the 17th September, 1814, 

On the bank of the Hudson at the south eastern ex- 
tremity of the parade ground, and several yards be- 
neath, is a spot called Kosciusko's garden, or Koscius- 
ko's retreat. It is the place to which the Polish patri- 



123 MAJOR ANDRE. 

ot was accustomed to retire to study, and which was 
cultivated by his own hands. Though now neglected, 
the marks of cultivation are perceptible in the regular- 
ity of the walks and the arrangement of the trees. A 
more delightful spot for recreation or repose cannot be 
imagined, nor one more suitable as a retreat from the 
cares of the great world, or a sanctuary for unfortunate 
patriotism or persecutd virtue. 

Major Andre, 

The fate of tliis gallant young officer will ever be as- 
sociated with the scenes at West Point. It was here 
the .infamous Arnold conceived his traitorous purposes 
against the liberties of his country, which brought upon 
him the contempt and execration of the world, and cost 
the unfortunate Andre his life. 

Benedict Arnold was a native of the state of Connec- 
ticut, and from the first commencement of hostilities ho 
had distinguished himself as a brave soldier, and an en- 
terprising and skilful commander. He had succeeded 
in the bold and difficult attempt to invade the Canadas 
from the state of Maine, where the sufferings of himself 
and soldiers had excited the sensibility of the nation 
towards him. At Quebec, on Lake Champlain and at 
Saratoga, he had acted a distinguished part ; and at the 
time of his appointment to the command of West Point, 
which was in November, 1779, he bore an honorable 
testimonial of his attachment to his country, in the 
wounds which he had recently received at the surrender 
of Burgoyne. 

The residence of Gen. Arnold was at the house and 
farm of Col. Beverly Robinson, opposite West Point, on 



MAJOR ANDRE. 123 

the east bank of the Hudson.* It was here that Gen. 
Arnold made the first proposals to surrender West 
Point, and the forces under his command, to the British 
army. The agents on the part of the British were Col. 
Beverly Robinson and Maj. John Andre, "\^■ho held fre- 
quent communications with the American general from 
on board the Vulture sloop of war, then lying at Haver- 
straw Bay, about ten miles below Stoney and Ver- 
plank's Points. 

Major Andre, at that time 29 years of age, had, from 
the natural amiableness of his character, and his supe- 
rior accomplishments as a citizen and a soldier, acquir- 
ed the unreserved confidence of his officers, and was 
emphatically considered the favorite of the British ar- 
my. In early life he had formed an attachment with a 
lady whom he addresses by the name of Delia, and to 
whom he had devoted all the leisure afforded from the 
intervals of a mercantile profession, until the news of 
her marriage with a more siiccessful rival, drove him, 
disappointed and unfortunate, to the bustling pursuits 
of the camp. His biographer remarks : " There was 
something singularly interesting in the character and 
fortunes of Andre. To an excellent understanding, well 
improved by education and travel, he united a peculiar 
elegance of mind and manners, and the advantages of 
a pleasing person. His knowledge appeared without 
ostentation. His sentiments were elevated, and in- 



* This house is still a conspicuous object. The 
house, also, in which Arnold fixed his head quarters at 
the latter place is still standing, and is occupied. 



134 MAJOR ANDRE. 

spired esteem, as they had a softness that conciliated 
affection. His elocution was handsome — his address 
easy, polite and insinuating. By his merit he had ac- 
quired the unlimited confidence of his general, and was 
making rapid progress in military rank and reputation. 
But in the height of his career, flushed with new hopes 
from the execution of a project the most beneficial to 
his party that could be devised, he is at once precipita- 
ted from the summit of prosperity, and sees all the ex- 
pectations of his ambition blasted, and himself ruined." 
A night in the month of September, 1780, was chos- 
en for the fatal interview between Arnold and Andre. 
Under the pretence of a correspondence with the Brit- 
ish general, on the subject of a treaty of peace, Arnold 
had succeeded in enUsting in his service an intelligent 
and respectable citizen of the name of Smith. Under his 
direction a boat was despatched to the Vulture sloop of 
war, then lying across the Bay of Haverstraw, about 12 
miles distant, to convey the British agent to the place 
appointed by Arnold for their meeting. On examining 
the papers, it was found that a pass had been sent for 
Col. Beverly Robinson, and also a blank pass for whom- 
soever should be selected for the important trust. In 
the latter pass was inserted the name of John Anderson, 
under which name Andre consented to be conveyed to 
the shore from whence he was destined never to return. 
The place appointed for the interview was at the foot 
of a mountain called Long Clove, on the west side of 
the Hudson. Hither Gen. Arnold had repaired, and on 
the arrival of Andre was found secreted in a thick grove 
of firs, the scene of their subsequent conference. After 
considerable conversation, which lasted till the dawn of 



MAJOR ANDRE. 125 

day, it was found impracticable for Andre to return 
without being discovered from the neighboring forts of 
Stoney and Verplank's Points. He was, therefore, 
conveyed to the house of Smith, the person who had 
brought him to the shore, and who afterwards accom- 
panied him on his way to New- York. At this house he 
procured a coat in exchange for his military dress 
which he had worn on shore, and on the evening of the 
day after his arrival, set out in company with Smith, 
and under a pass from Gen. Arnold, for White Plains. 
The first night of their journey was spent at a Mr. 
M'Koy's, about 8 miles from the place of their departure. 
The next day they rode, without any interruption, as 
far as Pine's Bridge, across the Croton river, wliich 
empties into the Hudson on its west side, at the head 
of Tappan Bay. Here, having received the necessary 
instructions as to the road he was to take, Andre the 
next morning took leave of his guide, and pursued his 
journey. He had not proceeded more than six miles, 
when he was arrested by three militia-men by the 
names of Paulding, Williams and Van Wart, who, with 
others, were on a scouting party between the out-posts 
of the two armies. These men stopped Major Andre 
in a narrow part of the road, at a place near Tarrytown, 
by suddenly seizing his horse by the bridle. Instead of 
immediately producing the pass which had been furnish- 
ed him by Gen. Arnold, Andre inquired where they be- 
longed to ? They answered, " To below." Not sus- 
pecting any deception, he replied, " So do I ;" and de- 
claring himself to be a British officer, he entreated that 
he might not be detained, being on pressing business. 
This declaration was followed by further inquiries. 



126 MAJOR ANDRE. 

which excited still more suspicion, and at length indu- 
ced a resolution on their part to detain him. Finding 
himself thus surprized, and a prisoner, he made use of 
every persuasion to regain his liberty, and offered a very 
valuable gold watch for his release ; but it was all to 
no effect. They asked for his papers, wliich being re- 
fused, they commenced searching him, and memoran- 
dums, in Arnold's hand-writing, relating to the forces 
and defences of West Point, were found concealed in 
his boots. 

Despatches were immediately forwarded to General 
Washington, together with a letter from Major Andre 
to General Arnold, apprizing him of his arrest and de- 
tention. In consequence of some mistake of the mes- 
senger, information of the circumstances reached Ar- 
nold some time before Washington was apprized at all 
of them. Upon the receipt of the letter, Arnold seized 
the messenger's horse, and immediately proceeded 
down a precipice to the river, where boats were al- 
ways ready to pass to and from West Point, and jump- 
ing into one of them, he directed the hands to row him 
down the river to the Vulture sloop of war. In the 
mean time information had been received by Washing- 
ton, and scarce had Arnold passed Stoney and Ver- 
plank's Points when Col, Hamilton arrived at the latter 
place with orders to stop him. 

Andre was arrested on the 23d of September ; and a 
board of general officers were immediately summoned, 
by order of Gen. Wasliington, for his trial. The cir- 
cumstances of the case were the subject of much ex- 
citement in both the American and British armies, and 
created much sympathy in favor of Andre. After an 



POLLOPEL ISLAND. 127 

inquiry of a number of days, the court determined that 
Andre ought to be considered as a spy from the enemy, 
and that, agreeably to the law and usage of nations, he 
ought to suffer death. 

This sentence was protested against, on the ground 
that Andre had been admitted into the American camp 
under the protection of a flag, and at the immediate in- 
stance of Arnold, the commanding officer of the district, 
whose safe passport and return he had a right to de- 
mand. But the sentence was consented to be waived 
only on condition of delivering Arnold into the custody 
of the American army ; which being refused by the 
British general, Andre was executed on the 2d of Octo- 
ber, 1780, at Tappan or Orangetown, where his remains 
were deposited. 

A respect to his memory induced the British govern- 
ment, a few years since, to convey his remains to Eng- 
land, where they were deposited in the family vault of 
the prince regent, the now reigning monarch, George 
IV. The place of his interment on the Hudson was 
marked by a solitary cypress. On opening the re- 
mains, it was discovered that the roots of the cypress 
had entwined their branches around the skull of the de- 
ceased. The tree, it is said, now serves to embellish 
the private garden of George IV. 

The four surviving children of Gen. Arnold have be- 
come pensioners of Great Britain, and receive annuities 
of £100 sterhng each. 

PoLLOPEL Island is situate at the northern en- 
trance of the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. It 
consists of a mass of rock, and rises near the centre of 

L 



128 NEWBUEGH. 

tbe river, between Breakneck Hill on the east and But- 
ter Hill on the west. The altitude of the latter is 1529 
feet — the former is 1187 feet In height, and contains 
the rock called the Upper Anthony's Nose. 

New-Windsor. Passing the Highlands, the proa- 
.pect changes into a very agreeable contrast. The bay 
of Newburgh with the village of the same name, and 
New- Windsor, and on the opposite shore the village of 
Fishkill, with its numerous adjacent manufactories and 
country seats, together with a view of the Hudson for 
many miles above, form a prospect which cannot fail 
to impart much interest. The village of New- Windsor 
stands on the margin of the river, 7 miles from West 
Point. It is calculated for a pleasant place of res- 
idence, but in business it must yield to the rival vil- 
lage of 

Newburgh. This is an incorporated village, situa- 
ted on the declivity of a hill on the west side of the 
Hudson, 10 miles north from West Point, and 84 south 
from Albany. It contains about 600 houses, and a 
population of 4000 inhabitants. From its situation it 
commands an extensive intercourse and trade Avith the 
country on the west, and, by means of the Hudson riv- 
er, with New-York. This place was for some time the 
head quarters of the American army during the revolu- 
tionary war ; and the " stone house" in which Gen. 
Washington quartered is still standing. On the oppo- 
site side of the river from Newburgh is Beacon Hill, 
one of the highest summits of the Fishkill mountains, 
where parties of pleasure frequently resort, in the sum- 
mer season, to witness an extent of prospect including 



HYDE PARK LANDING. 1C9 

U 

a part of the territories of five different states. This hill 

is 1471 feet in height. Haifa mile south is the New 
Beacon, or Grand Sachem, 16S5 feet above the level of 
the Hudson. They are called Beacon Hills, from the 
circumstance that beacons were erected on their sum- 
mits during the revolutionary war. The continuation 
of this chain of mountains is lost in the Appalachian 
Range on the north east, and extends south as far as 
the eye can reach. Diminished in distance, is seen 
West Point, environed by mountains, apparently repo- 
sing on the surface of the Hudson, and bathing their 
rocky summits in the clouds. 

Milton, is a small hamlet, situated on the west side 
of the Hudson river, in the town of Marlborough, 11 
miles from Newburgh. This place is called the half- 
way place between New- York and Albany, being 72 
1-2 miles distant from each. Two and a half miles 
south of Milton, on the east side of the Hudson, is the 
mansion house of the late Governor George Clinton. 

PouGHKEEPSiE, 15 milcs north of Newburgh, is sit- 
uated one mile east from the Hudson, on the post 
road from Albany to New- York, and was incorporated 
in 1801. The village is about the same size of New- 
burgh, handsomely located, and a place of considera- 
ble trade. It is laid out in the form of a cross, the two 
principal streets crossing each other at right angles. 
A road leads down a long steep hill from Poughkeep- 
sie to the landing on the Hudson river. This landing 
is 3 miles above Milton. About 5 miles farther north ia 

Htde Park Landino, on the east side of the Hud- 
son river, near which arc a number of country seats. 



130 CATSKILL. 

The first is the mansion of Judge Pendleton — one mile 
farther is the seat of H. Wilkes, Esq. — from thence 3 
miles up the river, stands the residence of Gen. M, 
Lewis, where is a landing place, leading to Staatsberg, 
one mile distant, in the town of Hyde Park. Two 
miles farther north is the residence of R. Tillotson, Esq, 
From thence to Rhinebeck Landing is 3 miles* — thenco 
to Rcdhook Lower Landing, where are the mansions 
of J. R. Livingston and W. RadclifF, is 7 miles — thence 
to Redhook Upper Landing, 3 miles — thence 2 miles 
to the seat of the late Chancellor Livingston — thence 7 
miles to the manor house of the late Lord Livingston — 
thence one mile to Oakhill, the residence of the late 
J. Livingston, now possessed by Harmon Livingston, 
Esq. — thence one mile to 

Catskill. This village takes its name from a largo 
creek which flows through it, and empties into the 
Hudson at that place. It is situated on the west bank 
of the river, 32 miles from Albany, and contains about 
two hundred and fifty dwellings, and 2000 inhabitants. 
On Catskill creek are already a number of mills and 
manufactories, and the general appearance of the vil- 

* Near this place, on the west side of the river, is the 
commencement of the Delaware and Hudson canal. It 
extends in a south-westwardly direction to the forks of 
the Dyberry on the Lackawaxen river, Pennsylvania, 
distance 103 miles, lockage 1438 feet. It was origin- 
ally intended by the company to have extended this 
canal to Keen's pond, 13 miles from its present termin- 
ation, but it has been abandoned and a rail road sub- 
stituted, which extends 3 miles west of Keen's pond to 
the Anthracite coal mines of Pennsylvania, 



PINE OnCHARD. 131 

lage is liighly tlattering-, as it respects ita future growth 
and prosperity. This village is in the immediate neigh- 
borhood of the Katsbergs or Catksill mountains, which 
are seen for many miles along the Hudson, and here 
assume a truly majestic and subhme appearance. The 
highest elevation of this range of mountains is in the 
county of Greene, from 8 to 12 miles distant from the 
river, including the Round Top, 3804 feet, and High 
Peal', 3718 feet in height. The village of Catskill, 
which has hitherto been visited, principally by men of 
business, has recently become the resort of people of 
fashion and pleasure, who design a tour to the 

Pine Orchard, a place which, for five or six years 
past, has attracted the attention of all classes of men, 
and still continues to draw to it numbers of those who 
are fond of novelty, and especially of the sublime and 
romantic scenery in which it abounds. Regular stages 
leave Catskill for the Pine Orchard twice a day. The 
fare is the moderate price of one dollar. The whole 
distance is 12 miles, computed as follows : From the 
village to Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles — from thence to 
the foot of the mountain, 2 miles — from thence to Pine 
Orchard, 3 miles. This distance is passed, in going, in 
about 4 hours — in returning, in about 2 hours. The 
country through which the road passes has nothing in- 
teresting in its appearance, until it reaches the moun- 
tain, being generally uneven and barren, and diversi- 
fied with but one or two comparatively small spots of 
cultivation, upon which the eye can rest with satisfac- 
tion. A short time is usually taken up nt Lawrence's, 

ior tliP purpose of refreshTnonf, before encountering the 
1.2 



139 PINE ORCHARD, 

rugged ascent of the mountains. This part of the road 
is generally good, but circuitous, and often passes on 
the brink of some deep ravine, or at the foot of soma 
frowning precipice, inspiring at times an unwelcome 
degree of terror. The rock upon which stands the ho- 
tel of Mr. Charles H. Webb, forms a circular platform, 
is of an uneven surface, and includes about six acres. 
It is elevated above the Hudson upwards of 2200 feet.* 
The Hotel is 140 feet in length, 24 feet in width, and 4 
stories high, and has piazzas in front the whole length, 
and a wing extending in the rear for lodging rooms. 



* Capt. Patridge, who visited the Catskill moun- 
tains in 182S, made the following barometrical observa- 
tions : 

Altitude of the Mountaiii House, at the Pine Or- 
chard, above the surface of the Hudson river at Cats- 
kill village, 2212 feet. 

Do. of the same above site of Lawrence's tavern, 7 
miles from Catskill, 1S82 feet. 

Do. of the same above the turnpike gate at the fool 
of the mountain, 1574 feet. 

Do. of the same above Green's bridge, 947 feet. 

The foregoing results were derived from a series of 
barometrical and thermometrical observations, made on 
the 17th July, 1828. The altitude of the Mountain 
House, as above stated, was the result of two distinct 
series of observations, made in going from the Catskill 
village to the house, and returning from the same to the 
village. The ascending series gave an altitude of 2225 
feet, and the descending series an altitude of 2203 feet. 
The mean of these two extremes gives 2212 feet. This 
result Capt. P. considersed as a very near approxima- 
tion to the true altitude. 



PINE OHCHAHD. I S3 

The buUding is owned by the " Catskill Mountain As- 
sociation," an incorporated company, with a capital 
of $10,000. It is well furnished, and possesses every 
convenience and accommodation requisite to the com- 
fort and good cheer of its numerous guests. The pros- 
pect from Pine Orchard eml^races a greater extent and 
more diversity of scenery than is to be found in any 
other part of the state, or perhaps in the United States. 
The vast variety of fields, farms, villages, towns and 
cities between the green mountains of Vermont on the 
north, the highlands on the south, and the Taghkanick 
mountains on the east, together with the Hudson river, 
studded with islands and vessels, some of which may 
be seen at even the distance of 60 miles, are apparent in 
a clear atmosphere to the naked eye ; and when the 
scene is gradually unfolded, at the opening of the day, 
it assumes rather the appearance of enchantment than 
a reality. It is not uncommon, at this place, to wit- 
ness storms of snow and rain in their reasons, midway 
the mountain, while all is clear and serene on its sum- 
mit. About two miles from the Hotel, are the Kaat- 
ERSKiLL Falls, which take their name from the stream 
on which they are situated. This stream takes its rise 
from two small lakes, half a mile in the rear of the Ho- 
tel ; and after a westerly course of a mile and a half, 
the waters fall perpendicularly 175 feet, and after paus- 
ing a moment on a projection of the rock, plunge again 
down a precipice of S5 feet more, making the whole de- 
scent of the falls 260 feet. The road to the falls is ex- 
tremely rough ; but this objection will hardly deter the 
traveller from a visit to a spot so novel and romantic. 



134 HUDSON COXSACKIE LANDING. 

Athens, five miles above Catskill, is an incorporated 
village, and contains 1000 inhabitants. Its situation, 
on a gentle slope of land, rising gradually from the riv- 
er, gives it a very favorable appearance. The vicinity 
of Athens to Hudson, immediately opposite, seems to 
forbid that importance in point of trade, its location 
might otherwise warrant. Athens furnishes a number 
of beautiful scites on the bank of the river ; some of 
which are already occupied by the elegant mansions of 
private gentlemen. 

The City of Hudson stands on the east side of the 
river, 27 miles south from Albany. The plain on which 
Hudson is situated rises abruptly from the river, by 
banks from 50 to 60 feet in height ; and terminates on 
the east, at the foot of high lands, which overlook the 
city at an elevation of some hundred feet, and furnish 
a prospect of tlie Hudson river and scenery for many 
miles in extent. The city contains a population of 
about 7000 inhabitants, and is daily increasing in 
M'ealth, population and commerce. Claverack creek 
on the east, and Kinderhook creek on the north, afford 
every facility for mills and manufactories, in which 
Hudson abounds ; and which have entitled it to the 
third rank, in manufactures, in the state. On the op- 
posite side of the Hudson appear a number of country 
seats with the farm houses and cultivation in the neigh- 
borhood of Athens and Catskill, bounded by the lofty 
Katsberghs, rising in the back ground and mingling 
their rugged summits with the clouds. 

CoxsACKiE LANDING, whcrc .are several houses and 
stores, is eight miles north of Hudson. From thence 
to Kinderhook landing is 1 mile. Hf re are about 2r> 



ALBANY. 186 

dwellings and a post offica The village of Kinder- 
hook is situated 5 miles east. Five miles further 
north, is the village of New-Baltimore ; thence to Coey- 
mans, 2 miles — thence to Schodac village,^ 2 miles— 
thence to Castleton landing, 2 miles — thence to Alba- 
ny 8 miles. 

ALBANY 

Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in point 
of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the sec- 
ond city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the 
Union. It is situated on the west side of the Hudson 
river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled 
in 1612 ; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the 
oldest settlement in the U. S. In 1614, a small fort 
and trading house were built by the Dutch on an isl- 
and half a mile below the scite of the present city ; and 
soon aftewards fort Orange where the city now stands. 
The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck 
till 1625 ; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt 
till 1664. For a long time after its foundation it was 
enclosed with palisadoes or pickets, as a defence against 
the Indians, who were then numerous and powerful in 
its vicinity. Its charter was granted in the year 1686, 
and embraced an area of 7160 acres. A great propor- 
tion of its soil is sandy and unproductive, and under no 
system of useful cultivation. 

Though the first appearance of this city is not 
prepossessing to a stranger, still the taste which has 
been displayed in the construction of its public and 
private buildings — the constant din of commercial bu- 
siness which assails the ear of the traveller — the ter- 
mination of the Erie canal at this place, and many 



136 ALBANY. 

Other atiendant circumstances, render Albany an im- 
portant and interesting spot. 

The town is divided into five wards, and contains 
many superb and elegant buildings. The principal 
streets are Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two 
former run parallel with the river, and the latter is a 
spacious one, extending from the Capitol to the Hud- 
son, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are 
many other streets, less considerable in extent, but 
populous, and crowded with shops and stores. 

The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, 
the common council chamber of the corporation, the 
supreme and chancery court rooms of the state, the 
county clerk's office, the state library, and other 
apartments for public business, stands at the head of 
State street, on an elevation of 130 feet abovje the level 
of the river. It is a substantial stone edifice, erected 
at the expense of $120,000; of which sum, $34,000 
was paid by the corporation of the city. It is 115 feet 
in length, 90 in breadth, and is 50 high, consisting of 
two stories, and a basement of 10 feet. The east front 
is adorned with a portico of the Ionic order, having 4 
magnificent columns, 3 feet 8 inches in diameter, and 
33 feet in height. In the senate and assembly cham- 
bers and in the room used for holding the court of 
chancery are full length portraits of Washington, of 
the various executives who have administered the gov- 
ernment of the state, and of Abraham Van Vechten, 
Esq. an eminent counsellor at law residing in Albany. 
There is also in the senate chnmber a good bust of 
Doct. Franklin. 



ALBANY. 137 

The Public Square, on the S. W. of which etanda 
the Capitol, is arranged in the style of a park, and has 
several delightful walks and avenues. 

North of the Capitol, stands the Academy, the most 
elegantly constructed and executed building in the city. 
It cost about $92,000 exclusive of the lot on which it is 
erected, and some donations. It is built of free stone, 
3 stories in height, and 90 feet in front. It is one of 
the most flourishing institutions in the state ; has 5 
teachers and about 140 students. 

The State Hall, for the offices of the secretary of 
state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor-general, attor- 
ney-general, and clerk of the supreme court, is sit- 
uated on the south side of State-street, nearly equi- 
distant from the Capitol and the Albany, Farmers' and 
Mechanics' Banks ; both of which stand at the foot of 
State-street, and are elegant white marble edifices. 
There are in this city 4 banks and 14 houses for public 
worship. Also a large brick building for the Lancas- 
ter school, a theatre in South Pearl street, an athe- 
neum, and an arsenal in North Market street. The 
museum is in South Market street, and is one of the 
best in the country. 

The American Hotel, kept by Mr. Drake in State 
street, about equi-distant from the capitol and the foot 
of the street, is one of the best public houses in the 
Union. The building is 5 stories high, besides the 
base, presenting an exterior of stucco work, and is cal- 
culated to accommodate from 80 to 100 guests. Its 
parlours, dining and lodging-rooms are spacious and 
richly furnished ; and every thing connected with the 



138 ALBANY* 

house i8 calculated to render it an elegant and desir* 
able resting place for a stranger. The keeper, Mr. 
Drake, was a former proprietor of Congress Hall al 
Saratoga Springs, at which place he gained much c^ 
lebrity for his skill and taste as a conductor of an ex- 
tensive public establishment. 

The other principal hotels are, the Mansion Houses 
and City Hotel in North Market street, the State Street 
House in State street, Cruttenden's, near the Capitol, 
and the Eagle Tavern in South Market street ; which 
are furnished and kept in superior style, reflecting equal 
credit upon the city and the proprietors. 

During the sessions of the New- York legislature, 
Albany is crowded with strangers, and contains much 
of the legal talent and learning of the state. 

The city is supplied with water from a distance of 3 
miles. It is eligibly situated for trade, being the great 
thorough fare for the northern and western sections of 
the state. 

The Albany Basin, where the waters of the canal 
unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the river 
included between the shore and an artificial pier erect- 
ed 80 feet in width and 4,300 feet in length. The pier 
contains about 8 acres, and is connected with the city 
by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous work, 
on which spacious and extensive stores have been 
erected, and where an immense quantity of lumber and 
other articles of trade are deposited. Is original cost 
was {5130,000, and the difll^rent lots were sold at pub- 
lic auction at a considerable advance. The basin cov- 
ers a surface of 32 acres. 



ALDAN Y. 139 

A mineral spring was discovered in Albany a few 
years since, by boring through a slate rock to the 
depth of 500 feet. The partners in this, however, hav- 
ing disagreed, one of them, (McCulloch, a Scotchman) 
commenced boring on his own account, in the same 
neighborhood, and at the depth of 617 feet struck upon 
another, much superior in its qualities, and approach- 
ing more nearly to the Congress Spring at Saratoga 
than any other in the United States. It contains rather 
more muriate of soda, and is an active carthartic. Its 
taste is much more disagreeable than the Congress 
Spring, which is attributed to the iron contained in it. 
The gas escaping from it is highly combustible, burning 
furiously on the application of a burning paper to the 
water when running from the vent. The spring is en- 
closed in a handsome garden, and is a place of fashion- 
able resort for citizens and strangers. 

The environs of Albany are pleasant, affording many 
delightful walks and rides, and the adjacent cities of 
Troy and Schenectady, and the villages of Lansing*- 
burgh and Waterford, the Cohoes Falls, the Shaker 
settlement at Niskayuna, &c. furnish points for short 
and interesting excursions. But perhaps nothing in 
the vicinity of Albany will afford more pleasure to the 
tourist, than a visit to the highly cultivated 

Farm of J. Buell, Esq.* about 2 miles west of the 
capitol on the Cherry Valley turnpike. This farm, con- 
sisting of 80 acres, has been wholly reclaimed from 
commons since 1818, and is now under profitable cul- 



Formerly editor of the Albany Argus. 

M 



I 



140 ALBANY. 

tivation. Mr. B. possessed the first requisite for im- 
provement — o consciousness of the icant of knowledge in 
his neto employment. Ho diligently sought for this 
knowledge In the practice of the best farmers, and in 
the study of the sciences upon which agriculture is 
based ; directing and superintending himself the labors 
of his farm. His improvements consist in selecting the 
best implements adapted to his soil — in substituting 
fallow crops for naked fallows — in extensively and suc- 
cessfully cultivating the Swedish and common turnip 
as a second crop, after clover and small grains — in in- 
troducing new and valuable grasses — in the cultiva- 
tion of live fences, which he has growing of the white 
European thorn, of the native thorn of our woods, and 
of the three thorncd or honey locust — and in the econ- 
omy and application of ordinary, and the use of new 
manures. His object has been to grow only good 
crops, and these with the least expense. In 1827, he 
sold from 64 acres in tillage and grass, under farm cul- 
ture, produce to the amount of more than $1500, ex- 
clusive of the consumption of a large family. His 
kitchen and flower gardens, abounding in the finest 
native and foreign fruits, ornamental trees, shrubs and 
flowers, will also be visited with interest. Upon the 
same farm is the 

Albany Nursery, which is under the management 
of Messrs. Buell & Wilson. It already covers 10 or 12 
acres, and is extended annually, embracing not only 
the most choice American fruits and ornamental plants, 
but also the finer varieties of France, Germany, Eng- 
land, &c. many of which have been received from the 
London Horticultural Society, of which Mr. B. was 



SHAKER SETTLEMENT. 141 

elected a corresponding member in 1824. Attached to 
this estabUshment is a green house, containing an ex- 
tensive collection of beautiful exotics, among which 
are several varieties of the splendid Cornelia or Japan 
rose, and other rare Asiatic plants. There are few 
establishments of the kind, indeed, in the country, pos- 
sessing more interest, or entitling their proprietors to 
greater commendation. 

The Shaker settlement at Niskayuna, is 8 miles 
north-west of Albany. A visit to these singular people 
is well deserving the attention of the traveller. The 
Shakers are the followers of Ann Lee, called by them 
Mother Ann, a religious enthusiast, who was born in 
England some time antecedent to the revolutionary 
war, and while yet in her youth, suffered much tribu- 
lation, and deep exercises of spirit, in her conversion 
from the sin of this world to a state of greater perfec- 
tion. She endured severe trials and much persecu- 
tion, according to iier own account, from her country- 
men ; but was afterwards favored with visions and 
an exhibition of miracles in her favor. Although in 
early life herself the wife of a poor blacksmith, the 
principal tenet of her creed is absolute and entire celib- 
acy, which is defended on various spiritual grounds, 
and fully set forth in a work recently published by the 
society. In consequence of the persecutions experi- 
enced by mother Ann in England, she came to this 
country and established a small society which has been 
followed by the establishment of others, of which this is 
one. Her followers regard her memory with pious ven- 
eration, and consider themselves as the only people in 
possession of the true light. Some of the oldest and 



14^2 SHAKER SETTLEMENT. 

most perfect members, it is said, pretend to "speak 
with tongues," heal diseases by a touch, &c. The 
marriage contract is dissolved on joining their society ; 
their association is a perfect community of goods, all 
private property being thrown into the common stock, 
and they profess to banish the love of ambition, wealth 
and luxury from their gloomy territories. 

They own at this place two thousand acres of ex- 
cellent land, laid out and kept in the order, neatness 
and cleanliness, which always distinguish their sect. 
This is divided into four farms, or families, as they are 
called, occupied by about seventy-five persons each, of 
both sexes and all ages. They cultivate garden stuffs, 
seeds, &c. for sale, as well as every thing necessary for 
their own support, and they manufacture various use- 
ful and ornamental articles. These, as well as the sur- 
plus produce of the farm, are sold and the avails de- 
posited in one of the Albany banks until required. 
The division of labor which they carry into practice, 
every occupation being entrusted to separate members, 
and their economical habits, render their gains very 
considerable. The men work as farmers, carpenters, 
shoemakers, tailors, &c. ; the women at weaving, spin- 
ning, washing, cooking and in the duties of the farm, 
making and mending clothes, the occupations of each 
sex being performed in separate buildings. They 
also eat separately, and neither of them will sit down 
to a meal with what they call the " world's people." 
The dress of the men is the usual quaker drab, perfect- 
ly plain ; that of the women grey, with white caps, all 
made as plain and easy as possible. They all have a 
peculiar walk, but especially the females, in conse- 
quenco of their mode of worship, from which they de- 



SHAKEB SETTLEMENT, 143 

live their name of Shakers, a strange and disagreeable 
mode of dancing, accompanied with a monotonous 
song. The young members of the community are 
regularly taught the steps in this dance by the older 
ones, before they are permitted to join in pubhc wor- 
ship. It is usual before the admission of a member to 
all the privileges of the society, to impose a noviciate 
of three months, when if he so desires he may leave 
them ; if not he is regularly admitted a member, and 
throws his property into the common stock. 

Notwithstanding the severity of their discipline as to 
celibacy, it is said the harmony of their society \ras 
lately much disturbed in consequence of a "love af- 
fair." A young man and woman, both belonging to 
the society, in despite of the doctrines of their leader, 
fell from their estate of " single blessedness," and yield- 
ed to a worldly attachment. This heresy, as might be 
expected, produced considerable commotion. The 
members wrestled with the tempter, and the elders 
prayed for and with the victims to the dreaded enemy 
of the sect ; but all to no purpose. They left the so- 
ciety and were married. It is creditable, however, 
to the members, that after finding their efforts to pre- 
vent this result unavaiUng, they sent the happy pair 
sufficient furniture for comfortable house-keeping, as- 
signing as a reason that they had labored for the so- 
ciety, and that it was no more than justice to reward 
them.* 



* Since the foregoing event, we are told another de- 
rilection from the rules of Mother Ann has taken place 
in the society, which also resulted in marriage. 
m2 



144 FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

STAGES. 

Perhaps there is no place in the union from which sta- 
ges leave in so many directions, and are so well arran- 
ged, as at Albany. The best of horses and carriages 
and careful drivers are generally employed, and every 
attention is paid to the comfort and convenience of 
travellers. Among the lines may be enumerated three 
or four daily stages to Utica and Buffalo ; about the 
same number to Boston, passing on different roads ; 
and the same number to Wliitehall on Lake Champlain. 
A daily line is also established between Albany and the 
Springs throughout the year, and several daily lines dur- 
ing the summer months. These generally leave about 
9 o'clock A. M. after the arrival of the morning boats 
from New-York, and at 2 P. M. Fare from ,$1,50 
to $2. 

FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

The distance (via Ballston Spa) is 37 miles, and the 
intermediate distances as follows : 



J\Iile.<f. 

Dunning Street, 8* 

Ballston Spa, 4 

Saratoga Springs, ... 7 



JMiles. 

Troy, 6 

Lansingburgh, 3 

Waterford, 1 

Mechanic's Ville, .... 8 

The first object which usually attracts the attention 
of the tourist on departing from Albany, is the mansion 
of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer, the patroon of the 



* From Dunning Street direct to Saratoga Springs, 
without passing through Ballston Spa, the distance is 
but 8 miles. 



m'adamized road. 145 

manor of Rensselaervvick*, which stands at its northern 
extremity, and which is one of the most elegant situa- 
tions in the United States. The munificence and lib- 
eraUty of its opulent and distinguished proprietor are 
proverbial. There are few charitable or scientific in- 
stitutions in the state of which he is not a benefactor ; 
and he has probably contributed more than any other 
citizen towards the fostering of agricultural and litera- 
ary improvements. 

The McAdamized Road between Albany and Wa- 
tervliet, opposite Troy, commences at this place. It 
nms parallel with the Erie canal, near its western bank, 
is between 5 and 6 miles long, of a width sufficient for 
three carriages to run abreast, and is probably the most 
elegant road on the continent. The vales and hilla 
through which it passes have been sufficiently elevated 
or depressed to afford either a level or a very moderate 
inclination ; so that the speed of a carriage over the 
whole is uninterrupted. It is the property of an incor- 
porated company, who have expended between $90,000 
and $100,000 in its construction. A steam carriage \a 
now in preparation to run on the road ; and it is not 
improbable that this will soon be the ordinary mode of 
travelling between the two cities. 

Five miles from Albany is the U. S. Arsenal, con- 
sisting of handsome brick and stone buildings, beauti- 
fully located on the western bank of the Hudson. 



* This manor comprises a great portion of the coun- 
ties of Alliany and Rensselaer — the city and several 
patents excepted. 



146 WATERVLIET. 

There is here a large quantity of arms and munitions of 
war, with workshops for repairing them, manufacturing 
locks, &c. The muskets, bayonets, swords and pistols 
are arranged in a portion of it with great taste, and 
kept in fine order. Among the cannon in the yard are 
four 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, taken at 
Saratoga ; four 12's and one howitzer, taken at York- 
town ; two long antique pieces and one eight inch mor- 
tar, taken at Stoney Point ; two old French 4 pounders 
and 14 guns, sent by Louis XVI to the continental con- 
gress in the revolution — all of brass, and most of them 
highly ornamented, with each an individual name and 
the inscription " ultima ratio regium." There are also 
three or four howitzers cast in New- York and Philadel- 
phia in the revolution, some of the oldest specimens of 
this manufacture in the country, and bearing the ini- 
tials U. C. for United Colonies. 

Half a mile further is the village of Watervliet, or 
rather from the Arsenal to and including West Troy or 
Port Schuyler, is a continuous village, which has rapid- 
ly increased within a short period. 

From Watervliet, there are two routes to Waterford ; 
one leading through Troy and Lansingburgh, and the 
other by the Junction of the Erie and Northern canals 
and the Cohoes falls. In going to and returning from 
the Springs, the traveller can pass over both routes. 

The Troy and Lansingburgh route. 
The Hudson, which is here about one fourth of a 
mile wide, is crossed in a horse tow-boat from Water- 
vliet to the 



^ Tiio?. 147 

City of Trot. It is bounded on the east by a ranga 
of hills rising abruptly from the alluvial plain on which 
the city is situated, extending to the Hudson river. In 
point of location and beautiful natural scenery, Troy is 
exceeded by few, if any, of the towns and villages on 
the Hudson. The streets, running north and south, 
converge together at the north end of the city, and are 
crossed at right angles by those running east and west. 
The buildings are principally built of brick, and are 
shaded by rows of trees on each side of streets which 
are preserved remarkably clean, by additions of slate 
and gravel, instead of pavements. The city contains 
three banks, seven churches, a court house, jail and mar- 
ket. The Episcopal church is a superb specimen of 
Gothic architecture, probably not exceeded in the Uni- 
ted States. It has a venerable and imposing appear- 
ance, and needs nothing but a quantity of moss and ivy 
to make it the picture of one of those ancient abbeys so 
often to be met with in the writings of Sir Walter Scott. 
A large three story brick building has also been erected 
at the expense of the corporation, for the accommoda- 
tion of the female seminary incorporated at this place. 
This institution is under the government of a female 
principal (Mrs. Willard) and several assistants, whose 
exertions have given it a deserved celebrity over simi- 
lar institutions in the state. There are annually edu- 
cated at this seminary from 60 to 80 females. The 
friends of literature have also established a Lyceum at 
this place ; which, though of recent origin, promises 
much advantage and usefulness to its patrons. The 
population of Troy is estimated at about 13,000. 



148 LANSINGBURGH — WATERFORD. 

Mount Ida, in the rear of Troy, is a romantic spot, 
affording a very extensive prospect of the Hudson river 
and the adjacent country. 

About a mile above the city, a dam has been thrown 
across the river, and a lock constructed, affording a 
sloop navigation to the village of Waterford. 

One mile and a half from Troy is the Rensselaer 
school, which was established, and is under the pat- 
ronage of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer. It is a valua- 
ble and flourishing institution. 

Lansingburgh, three miles from Troy, is principally 
built on a single street, running parallel with the river. 
A high hill rises abruptly behind the village, on which 
is seen the celebrated diamond rock, which at times 
emits a brilliant lustre, from the reflected rays of the 
sun. The appearance of Lansingburgh by no means 
indicates a high state of prosperity, though it contains 
several very handsome private residences. The village 
has a bank, two places of public worship, and an acade- 
my. Its population does not exceed 3,000. About a 
mile north, a well built and handsome bridge extends 
across the Hudson river to the village of 

Waterford. This village has been incorporated, 
and in point of size and commerce may be considered 
the capital of Saratoga county. It is situated at the 
junction of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and derives 
considerable importance from the navigation of small 
vessels, which, by means of the lock and dam below, 
at most seasons of the year arrive and depart to and 
from its docks. The village contains a population of 
about 1700 inhabitants. It already enjoys many ad- 



OOHOES PALLS. 149 

vantages for trade, and its importance is much increas- 
ed by the northern canal, which communicates with 
tlie Hudson river at this place. 

The Junction and Cohoes rmite. 
From Watervliet to Waterford, by the Cohoes falls, 
the distance is about the same as by Troy, (4 miles.) 
West Troy or Port Schyler, which may be considered 
a continuation of Watervliet, owes its origin and 
growth to the Erie canal, which passes through the vil- 
lage, and from which there is a side cut to a basin in 
the river. 

The Junction of the Erie and Northern canals is 
two miles father. Here, within the space of three 
quarters of a mile, are 17 locks ; and the number of 
boats constantly passing through present a spectacle 
of activity and business of a novel character to one 
who has never witnessed canal navigation. The locks 
are of the best workmanship, and are justly ranked 
among the most important works on the canals. About 
a mile farther the Mohawk river is crossed by an excel- 
lent bridge in full view of the 

Cohoes Falls, which are a short distance above. 
The perpendicular fall is about 40, and including the 
descent above, about 70 feet. The lofty barrier of 
rocks which confine the course of the Mohawk — the 
distant roar of the cataract — the dashing of the waters 
as they descend in rapids beneath you — and the strik- 
ing contrast of the torrent with the solitude of the 
scenery above, contribute to render the whole an unu- 
sual scene of sublimity and grandeur. An old tradi- 
tion states, that a chief of the Mohawks attempting to 



150 VAN SCHAICK'S lyi-AND. 

cross ia his canoe, embarked too near the current of 
the falls to escape their descent. Finding himself una- 
ble to resist the influence of the current, which hurried 
him fast to the summit, with true Indian heroism, he 
turned his canoe into the stream, assumed his station 
at the helm, and with a paddle in one hand and his 
bottle in the other, was precipitated over the brink. 
It was in taking a view of these falls, about 30 years 
since, that the poet Moore composed one of his best 
fugitive pieces. Indeed, the scenery and every thing 
connected with this interesting spot, are calculated to 
afford ample subjects for the poet and painter. 

Between this place and Schenectady, (noticed in a 
subsequent page,) the canal is carried twice across the 
Mohawk. The lower aqueduct, as it is called, 2 1-2 
miles from the falls, is 1188 feet long, and rests on 26 
stone piers and abutments — the other aqueduct, 12 
miles further, is 750 feet long, and rests on 16 piers. 
These works were completed at great expense, and 
must have required immense labour. 

From the falls to Waterford (noticed at page 148) ia 
one mile. 

Van Schaick's Island is situated in the vicinity of 
Waterford, and is formed by the sprouts of the Mohawk 
river joining with the Hudson river, 9 miles north of Al- 
bany. This spot is noted for being the head quarters 
of the American army in 1777 ; from whence they 
marched, in September of the same year, to the de- 
cisive victory over Burgoyne, at Bemus' Heights. 
There are few places more fruitful, in sources of inter- 
est and delight to the stranger, than Saratoga. Hebe, 



MECHANIC- VILLE — DUNNING-8TREET. 151 

at one point, beckons him to the pursuit of health, 
promising him a full share of pleasure, consistent with 
her heavenly boon, while Mars, at another, invites him 
to the field where military courage and enterprise re- 
ceived at his hand the palm of victory. Whilst the 
scenes associated with the independence of our coun- 
try shall impart an interest, and so long as health and 
amusement shall remain the pursuit of humanity, Sara- 
toga will continue to be the resort of the invalid, the 
fashionable, the patriot and the philosopher. 

Mechanic Ville, or as it is more commonly called 
the Burrough, is situated 8 miles north of Waterford. 
It contains about 20 dwellings, a post office, and a cot- 
ton factory and mills. The road from Waterford to this 
place lies on the margin of the river, of which a view 
may be had at any point of the distance. Some of the 
old Dutch barns bordering on the turnpike, and which 
are still in a state of tolerable preservation, were used 
by the American troops as barracks during the revolu- 
tionary war. After leaving the Borough, the road is 
circuitous and uneven ; and the country presents but 
little appearance of cultivation, the prospect being gen- 
erally limited by the numerous pines for which this re- 
gion is distinguished. 

DuNNiNG-sTREET is 8 miles in a north-westerly di- 
rection from Mechanic Ville. Here are two public 
houses, a store and number of dwellings. It is called 
Dunning-street from a family of the same name who first 
came to settle there, and who still reside in the neigh- 
borhood. The farms in this section are some of the 
best in the county, and are under very good improve- 

N 



I 52 BALLSTON SPA. 

ment. Ballston Spa is situated four miles from Dun- 
ning-street, in a north-westerly direction ; Saratoga 
Springs 8 miles in a northerly direction. 

BALLSTON SPA. 

This pleasant village lies in the town of Milton in the 
county of Saratoga ; and is situated in a low valley, 
through the centre of which flows a branch of the Kay- 
ederosseras, with whose waters it mingles at the east 
end of the village. The natural boundaries of Balls- 
Bton Spa are well defined by steep and lofty hills of 
Band on the north and west, and by a ridge of land 
which gradually slopes inward, and encircles the vil- 
lage on the south and east. The broad and ample 
Kayaderosseras, whose stream gives motion to a neigh- 
boring mill, flows on the north-east boundary of the 
village, and furnishes a favorite resort for the sports- 
man on the bosom of its waters, or for the loiterer 
along its verdant banks. " The village was incorporated 
in 1807, and is under the direction of three trustees, 
who are chosen annually. It contains 130 houses, and 
about 800 inhabitants. Besides the court house for 
the county, and the clerk's oflice, which are located 
here, there is an Episcopal and a Baptist church, an 
academy, and a female seminary ; likewise a print- 
ing office and a book store, with which a reading 
room is connected for the accommodation of visitants. 

The Female Seminary is under the superintendance 
of Mr. Booth, a gentleman who is eminently qualified 
for the undertaking, having been for a number of years 
the principal instructor in the female academy at Al- 
bany. The scito of the institution is on a pleasant 



BALLSTON 8PA. 153 

and healthy eminence, commanding a view of the whole 
village and the surrounding country for some distance. 
The building itself is spacious and airy, and occupies, 
with the out grounds and improvements, upwards of 
an acre of land. This institution, though of recent es- 
tablishment, has, from the well known experience and 
celebrity of its proprietor, commanded a full share of 
patronage. Among the various branches taught, are 
natural and moral philosophy, belles lettres, chemistry, 
geometry and history ; and when required, competent 
teachers instruct in the several branches of musick, 
drawing and dancing. The terms of tuition and board 
are quite reasonable ; and the general management 
of the institution is spoken of in the highest terms of 
commendation. 

Ballston Spa principally derives its celebrity from 
the mineral springs which flow here and at Saratoga 
in equal abundance. The spring first discovered in the 
vicinity, stands on the flat, nearly opposite the board- 
ing establishment of Mr. Aldridge. It formerly flowed 
out of a common barrel, sunk around it, without any 
other protection from the invasion of cattle, who often 
slacked their thirst in its fountain. Afterwards the Ub- 
erality of the citizens was displayed in a marble curb 
and flagging, and a handsome iron railing. The curb 
and flagging were finally removed, leaving the railing, 
which still serves the purposes of ornament and pro- 
tection. The spring flows now, probably, from tho 
place where it originally issued, some feet below tho 
surrounding surface, which has been elevated by addi- 
tions of earth, for the purpose of improving tho road in 
which it standsw 



154 BALL6T0N SPA. 

Near this spring, in boring two or three years since, 
an excellent mineral fountain was discovered at a con- 
siderable depth beneath the surface. Its qualities are 
said to be superior to those of the spring already men- 
tioned, and, by many, its waters are preferred to any 
other in the village. 

The U. States Spring is situated at the east end of 
the village, on the land of Mr. Loomis. Near this foun- 
tain, a large and commodious bathing house has been 
erected ; to which, not only the waters of this, but of 
a number of other adjacent springs, are tributary, for 
the purpose of bathing. Between the springs already 
mentioned, there was discovered in the summer of 
1817, a mineral spring, called the Washington fountain. 
This latter spring rose on the margin of the creek in 
front of the factory building ; it flowed through a curb 
28 feet in length, sunk to the depth of 23 feet, and was 
liberated at the top in the form of a beautiful jet d'eau ; 
but the spring disappeared in 1S21. Numerous at- 
tempts have since been made to recover it, but they 
have proved fruitless. 

The principal ingredients of these w'aters consist of 
muriate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, 
carbonate of magnesia, and carbonate of iron ; all of 
W'hich, in a greater or less degree, enter into the com- 
position of the waters, both here and at Saratoga. 

The principal boarding houses are the Sans Souci, 
Aldridge's, and the Village Hotel. 

The Sans Souci, with its yards and out houses, oc- 
cupies an area of some acres in the east part of the vil- 
lage* The plan of the building, with the extensive im- 
provements around it, do much credit to the taste and 



BALLexojJ ePA. 155 

Bberality of its proprietor. The establishment was for- 
merly the property of Mr. Low, of New- York ; from 
whom it has passed into the hands of Mr. Loomis, its 
present owner, and under whose management the most 
entire satisfaction is given to its annual visitants. The 
edifice is constructed of wood, three stories high, 160 
feet in length, with two wings extending back 153 feet, 
and is calculated for the accommodation of 130 board- 
ers. It is surrounded by a beautiful yard, ornamented 
with a variety of trees and shrubbery, which, with its 
extensive piazzas and spacious halls, render it a de- 
lightful retreat during the oppressive heat of summer. 

Aldridge's Boarding House, with which is connect- 
ed an extensive garden, at the west end of the village, 
is not inferior in point of accommodation, and receives 
its full share of patronage. Its more retired location, 
and the profusion of i-ural scenery around it, as well as 
the deserved reputation of the establishment, will al- 
ways determine the choice of a large portion of visitants 
during their transient residence at the Springs. 

The Village Hotel, is in a convenient situation ft 
few rods west of the Sans Souci. It is now kept by 
the proprietor, Mr. Clark, and is a very agreeable and 
pleasant boarding place for strangers during the sum- 
mer months. 

Mrs. M'Master's, is a private boarding house, sit- 
uated adjacent to the spring on the flat in the west 
part of the village. Those who arc fond of «. retired 
situation, will be much gratified at this place, and with- 
al will find a hospitable hostess, and very excellent ac- 
n2 



156 BALLSTON SFA. 

commodations, at a moderate price. Besides these, 
there are other houses of accommodation ; the princi- 
pal of which is the 

Mansion House, owned by Mr. Kid. This house is 
situated in a central part of the village, is well kept, 
and every attention is paid which can contribute to the 
comfort and convenience of its guests. 

The price of board per week, at the several houses, 
is from $3 to $8. 

Mails arrive and depart to and from Ballston Spa, 
every day in the week. Besides a post office at the 
village, there is one in the town of Ballston, about three 
miles distant, to which letters are frequently missent, 
owing to the neglect of correspondents in making the 
proper direction. 

The reading room and library may be resorted to at 
all times, and for a moderate compensation. Papers 
are there furnished from all parts of the Union. The 
library, which includes some periodical publications, is 
small ; but valuable selections may be made, either 
for instruction or amusement. 

Six miles from Ballston Spa, in a southerly direction, 
is Ballston Lake, or, as it is sometimes called, the 
Long Lake. The only accommodations, on an excur- 
sion to the lake, are furnished at the farm house, re- 
cently owned by a Mr. M'Donald, on its western mar- 
gin. This gentleman was a native of Ireland, and on 
his first arrival in America, settled with liis brother, in 
1763, on this spot, where he continued to reside until 
his decease, in 1823. It was at this house Sir William 
Johnson passed some time on his first journey to Sai- 
atoga Springs, as early as the year 1767. The lake is 



SARATOGA SPRINGS, 157 

a beautiful sheet of water, 5 miles long and 1 broad. 
The scenery around affords a pleasing landscape of cul- 
tivation and wood lands, no less inviting to the sports- 
man than the soft bosom of the lake and its finny in- 
habitants to the amateurs of the rod. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

Is situated north-easterly from Ballston Spa 7 miles, 
and 24 miles from the village of Waterford. The vil- 
lage is located on an elevated spot of ground, surround- 
ed by a productive plain country, and enjoys, if not the 
advantage of prospect, at least the advantage of a sa- 
lubrious air and climate, contributing much to the 
health and benefit of its numerous visitants. The 
springs, so justly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, 
are situated on the margin of a vale, bordering the vil- 
lage on the east, and are a continuation of a chain of 
springs discovering themselves about 12 miles to the 
south, in the town of Ballston, and extending easterly, 
in the form of a crescent, to the Quaker village. In 
the immediate vicinity are 10 or 12 springs, the princi- 
pal of which are the Couf'^'ess, the Hamilton, the High 
Rock, the Columbian, the Flat Rock, the Washington 
and the President. About a mile east, at the former 
residence of Mr. Taylor, are found a cluster of mineral 
springs which go by the name of the Ten Springs. 

THE CONGRESS SPRING 
Is situated at the south end of the village, and is 
owned by Doct. John Clarke ; to whose liberality the 
public are much indebted for the recent improvements 
that have been made in the grounds adjoining the foun- 
tain, and the purity in which its waters are preserved. 



153 SARATOGA SPRIKGS. 

This spring was first discovered about 30 years stnc^ 
issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feet from its 
present location. Here it flowed for a number of years, 
until an attempt to improve the surface around it pro- 
duced an accidental obstruction of its waters, which 
afterwards made their appearance at the place where 
they now flow. It is enclosed by a tube sunk into the 
earth to the distance of 12 or 14 feet, which secures it 
from the water of the stream, adjoining to which it 
is situated. Besides a handsome enclosure and plat- 
form for promenading, the proprietor has thrown an 
awning over the spring for the convenience of visitants. 

To this spot, perhaps more than any other on the 
globe, are seen repairing in the summer mornings, be- 
fore breakfast, persons of almost every grade and con- 
dition, from the most exalted to the most abject. The 
beautiful and the deformed — the rich and the poor — 
the devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all congregate 
here for purposes as various as are their situations in 
life. To one fond of witnessing the great diversity in 
the human character, this place affords an ample field 
for obser^'ation. So well indeed, has it been improved 
by the little urchins who dip water at the fountain, that 
an imposing exterior is sure to procure for its possessor 
their services ; while individuals less richly attired, and 
whose physiognomy indicate a less liberal disposition, 
are often compelled to wait till it is more convenient 
to attend to their want«. 

Most persons £ ■"• occome ff»nd of the water j but 
the effect on thosi /ho t.Ts': ;, lor the first time is fre- 
quently unpleasan. " uch. tiui other fountains are 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 159 

generally more palatable, having a less saline taste 
than the Congi-ess. . 

The High Rock is situated on the west side of the 
valley, skirting the east side of the village, about half a 
mile north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this 
spring is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its 
base, and 5 feet in height. It seems to have been 
formed by a concretion of particles thrown up by the 
water, which formerly flowed over its summit through 
an aperture of about 12 inches diameter, regularly di- 
verging from the top of the cone to its base. This spring 
was visited in the year 1767 by Sir WiJham Johnson, 
but was known long before by the Indians, who were 
first led to it, either by accident or by the frequent 
haunts of beasts, attracted thither by the sahne proper- 
ties of the water. A building was erected near the spot 
previous to the revolutionary war ; afterwards aban- 
doned, and again resumed ; since which the usefulness 
of the water has, from time to time, occasioned frequent 
settlements within its vicinity. 

The water now rises within 2 feet of the summit, and 
a common notion prevails that it has found a passage 
through a fissure of the rock occasioned by the fall of a 
tree ; since which event it has ceased to flow over its 
brink. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is 
probable that the decay of the rock, which commenced 
its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may 
have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and at 
length opened a passage between its decayed base and 
the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea is 
strengthened from the external appearance of the 
rock at its eastern base, which has already been pcnc- 



160 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

trated by tho implements of curiosity a number of 
inches. 

Between the Red spring in the upper village, and the 
Washington in the south part of the lower village, are 
situated most of the other mineral springs in which this 
place abounds. At three of the principal springs, the 
Hamilton, Monroe and Washington, large and conven- 
ient bathing houses have been erected, which are the 
constant resort for pleasure as well as health, during 
the wann season. 

The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga 
are supposed to be the product of the same great laba- 
ratory, and they all possess nearly the same properties, 
varying only as to the quantity of the different articles 
held in solution. They are denominated acidulous sa- 
line and acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the 
Congress, (which holds the first rank,) the Hamilton, 
High Rock and President, at Saratoga ; and of the lat- 
ter are the Columbian, Flat Rock and Washington, at 
Saratoga, and the Old Spring and United States, at 
Ballston. The waters contain muriate of soda, hydrio- 
date of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, cor- 
bonate of magnesia, oxide of iron, and some of them a 
minute quantity of silica and alumina. Large quanti- 
ties of carbonic acid- gas are also contained in the wa- 
ters, giving to them a sparkling and lively appear- 
ance. The Congress, in particular, the moment 
it is dipped, contains nearly one half more than its bulk 
of gas ; a quantity unprecedented in any natural wa- 
ters elsewhere discovered. 

Doct. Steel, in his geological report of the county of 
Saratoga, published a few years since, remarks, that 



SARATOGA SPiilNGS. 161 

** the temperature of the water in all these wells is 
about the same, ranging from 48 to 52 degrees on jPar- 
enheWs scale ; and they suffer no sensible alteration 
from any variation in the temperature of the atmos- 
phere ; neither do the variations of the seasons appear 
to have much effect on the quantity of water produced. 

" The waters are remarkably limpid, and when first 
dipped sparkle with all the life of good champaigne. 
The saline waters bear bottling very well, particularly 
the Congress, immense quantities of which are put up 
in this way, and transported to various parts of the 
world ; not, however, without a considerable loss of its 
gaseous property, which renders its taste much more in- 
sipid than when drank at the well. The chalybeate water 
is likewise put up in bottles for transportation, but a very 
trifling loss of its gas produces an immediate precipita- 
tion of its iron ; and hence this water, when it has been 
bottled for some time, frequently becomes turbid, and fi- 
nally loses every trace of iron ; tliis substance fixing it- 
self to the walls of the bottle. 

" The most prominent and perceptible effects of 
these waters, when taken into the stomach, are cathar^ 
tic, diuretic and tonic. They are much used in a great 
variety of complaints ; but the diseases in which they 
are most efficacious are, jaundice and billious affections 
generally, dyspepsia, habitual costiveness, hypochon- 
drical complaints, depraved appetite, calculous and ne- 
phritic complaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ul- 
cers, cutaneous eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some 
species or states of gout, some species of dropsy, scro- 
fula, paralysis, scorbutic affections and old scorbutic ul- 
cers, amenorrhea, dysmenorrhea and clorosis. In 



162 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

phthisis, and indeed all other pulmonary affections ari- 
sing from primary diseases of the lungs, the waters are 
manifestly injurious, and evidently tend to increase the 
violence of the disease. 

" Much interest has been excited on the subject of 
the source of these singular waters ; but no researches 
have as yet unfolded the mystery. The large propor- 
tion of common salt found among their constituent 
properties may be accounted for without much difficul- 
ty. All the salt springs of Europe, as well as those of 
America, being found in geological situations exactly 
corresponding to these, but the production of the unex- 
ampled quantity of carbonic acid gas, the medium 
through which the other articles are held in solution, is 
yet, and probably will remain a subject of mere specu- 
lation. The low and regular temperature of the water 
seems to forbid the idea that it is the effect of subterra- 
nean heat, as many have supposed, and the total ab- 
sence of any mineral acid, excepting the muriatic, 
which is combined with soda, does away the possibihty 
of its being the effect of any combination of that kind. 
Its production is therefore truly unaccountable."* 



♦ An analysis of the waters of this place and at 
Ballston Spa was made and published by Doct. Steel, 
some years since, and has received the sanction of the 
most scientific men in this country and in Europe. The 
Doctor has recently prepared and is now publishing 
(1830) an entire new work, embracing not only an anal- 
ysis of the various springs and directions for their use 
m the numerous diseases in which they have proved 
beneficial, but also a full and interesting history of their 
discovery, and of the rise and progress of the villages in 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 163 

The boarding establishments of the first class at Sar- 
atoga Springs are the Congress Hall and Union Hall at 
the south end of the village, the Pavilion at the north, 
and the United States Hotel in a central situation be- 
tween them. Besides these, there are a number of oth- 
er boarding houses on a less extensive scale, the most 
noted of which are, Montgomery Hall in the south part, 
and the Columbian Hotel and Washington Hall in the 
north part of the village ; Fletcher^s, (formerly Doctor 
Porter's,) and IFafo-ftury'^, about half way between the 
Congress and Flat Rock springs ; Monroe's, Putnani's, 
Sadler^ s, and Martin's, in the southern part of the village. 

The Congress Hall, kept by Messrs. J. & J. R. 
Westcott, is situated within a few rods of the Congress 
spring, to which a handsome walk, shaded with trees, 
has been constructed for the convenience of guests. 
The space in front of the building is occupied by three 



which they are located. The literary attainments of 
Doct. S. and his great experience from a long residence 
at this place, give us reason to believe that this work 
will be found to be far superior to any thing of the kind 
which has appeared. It ought also to be remarked, 
that no invalid should attempt the use of these waters 
without the direction of a physician well acquainted 
W'ith their properties, A contrary course, under the 
too prevalent and erroneous impression that they may 
be drank in all complaints, in any quantity, and at all 
hours of the day, has been attended in many instances 
with deleterious and sometimes with fatal consequen- 
ces. There can be no doubt of their great efficacy in 
most complaints, when properly used ; yet ill-timed 
and too copious draughts not only fail of removing com- 
plaints, but frequently engender them, 
o 



164 Saratoga springs, 

apartments, each of which is enclosed by a railing, ter- 
minating at the front entrances of the piazza, and each 
used as a flower garden. The edifice is 200 feet in 
length, 2 1-2 stories high, with two wings extending 
back, one 60, and the other about 1 00 feet. The bil- 
liard rooms belonging- to the establishment are contain- 
ed in a building adjoining the north wing. In front of 
the Hall is a spacious piazza, extending the whole 
length of the building, 20 feet in width, with a canopy 
from the roof, supported by 17 massy cohmms, each of 
which is gracefully entwined with woodbine. There is 
also a back piazza, which opens upon a beautiful gar- 
den annexed to the establishment, and a small grove of 
pines, affording both fragrance and shade to their loi- 
tering guests. The Congress Hall can accommodate 
nearly 200 visitants, and is justly ranked among the 
most elegant establishments in the union. 

The United States Hotel, kept by Messrs. Ford & 
Marvin, with its gardens and out buildings, occupies a 
space in the centre of the village of about five acres. 
The main building is composed, of brick, 125 feet long 
and 34 wide. It is four stories high, and has a wing ex- 
tending west 60 feet, three stories high. The bil- 
liard room is in a building erected for the purpose in the 
pleasure grounds adjoining. A building, 34 by 60, ap- 
propriated to drawing and lodging rooms, has also been 
added on the south, and is connected with the main ed- 
ifice by broad piazzas in front and rear, extending the 
whole length of both buildings. The ground in the 
rear and south of the hotel is handsomely laid out into 
walks, terminating on the west in a garden belonging 
to the establishment, and the whole is tastefully orna- 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 1G5 

raented with trees and shrubbery. The front of the 
edifice is enclosed by a deUcate circular raiUng into 
three apartments, each containing a choice variety of 
flowers and shrubs, and shaded by a row of forest trees 
extending the whole length of the building. The hotel 
is situated equally distant between the Congress and 
Flat Rock springs, and commands a view of the whole 
village, and from its fourth story a distinct view is had 
of the surrounding country for a number of miles. This 
establishment can accommodate nearly 200 visitants, 
and is one of the largest and most splendid edifices in 
the United States. 

The Pavilion is situated in a pleasant part of the vil- 
lage, immediately in front of the Flat Rock spring. The 
building is constructed of wood, 133 feet in length, with 
a wing extending back from the centre of the main 
builing, 80 feet. It is 2 1-2 stories high, with the ad- 
dition of an attiek story, which, with the handsome 
portico in front, sustained by delicate colonades, ren- 
ders it, in beauty and proportion, one of the finest 
models of architecture this country can produce. The 
large rooms of the Pavilion are less spacious than those 
of the United States Hotel or Congress Hall, but are 
so constructed that by means of folding doors the 
whole of the lower apartments may be thrown into 
one — ^an advantage which gives much additional inter- 
est to the promenade and cotillion parties, which fre- 
quently assemble on this extensive area. A large gar- 
den is connected with the establishment, and also a 
billiard room. The Pavilion is calculated for the ac- 
commodation of about 130 visitants, though it frequent- 
ly contains a much gi*eater number. It is kept by Mr. 
X C. Dillftn. 



166 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

The Union Hall is one of the earliest and most re- 
spectable establishments in the vicinity, and is situated 
directly opposite to the Congress Hall. It has, within 
a few years, been much improved in its appearance, 
and enlarged by considerable additions to the main 
building. It now presents an elegant and extensive 
front, 120 feet in length, 3 stories high, with two wings 
extending west 60 feet. It is ornamented in front by 
10 columns, which rise to nearly the height of the 
building, and support the roof of a spacious piazza. A 
garden in the rear of the building, together with a beau- 
tiful flower garden on the north opening to the main 
street, are among the varieties which contribute to the 
pleasantness of the establishment. It is now kept by 
Mr. W. Putnam, a son of the original proprietor, and 
ranks in point of elegance and respectability with the 
most favored establishments in the vicinity. 

The Columbian Hotel, owned and kept by Mr. 
Williams, stands a few yards south of the Pavilion. 
Annexed to the establishment is a handsome garden, 
lying on three sides of the building, which adds much 
to the beauty and advantage it enjoys in point of nat- 
ural location. The well known reputation of this es- 
tablishment, as well as its pleasant situation, in the vi- 
cinity of one of the principal fountains, will always en- 
sure it a full share of patronage. 

The Washington Hall, owned and kept by Mr. I. 
Taylor, is beautifully located at the north part of the 
village ; and is patronized by strangers who do not 
wish to mingle in the pleasures of the larger establish- 
ments. The price of board per week at the respective 
houses, is from $3 to $10. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 167 

The Reading Rooms. There is in the village a print- 
ing office and book-store, with which is connected a 
reading room, a mineralogical room and a library, un- 
der the superintendence of the same proprietor. These 
rooms, a few doors north of the U. S. Hotel, are con- 
tained in the same building with the library and book- 
store, but have their separate apartments. That ap- 
propriated for the reading room, is large and airy. It 
is ornamented with a variety of maps and charts, and 
is furnished by the daily mails with about 100 papers,' 
from different parts of the United States and from the 
Canadas, besides several periodical publications. The 
mineralogical apartment is on the second story, to 
which stairs lead from the reading room. This apart- 
ment contains specimens of all the minerals discovered 
in this vicinity, together with a variety from different 
parts of the union, and from Europe. They are very 
handsomely arranged in glass cases, have been much 
augmented of late by Dr. J. H. Steel, of this place, to 
whom the proprietor is principally indebted for their 
collection and arrangement. An apartment adjoining 
the reading room, contains a library of about 2000 vol- 
umes, which are well selected, and receive constant 
additions from the most fashionable productions of the 
day. There is also kept at these rooms a register of 
the names of visitants at the Springs, their residence 
and places of board. The names thus entered fre- 
quently number from 6 to 8000 in the course of a sea- 
son. 

These rooms afford a pleasant retreat from the noise 
and bustle of the boarding establishments, and are 
much frequented by ladies and gentlemen of taste and 
o2 



16S SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

fashion. The terms are reasonable, and are scarcely 
an equivalent considering the extent and usefulness of 
the institution. 

The mail arrives at the Springs every evening at 6 
o'clock in 24 hours from New-York, and leaves every 
morning at 8 for Albany, intersecting with the Boston 
mail at that place. Strangers should be apprized that 
a post-office is established in the to-wn of Saratoga, 
about 12 miles distant, to which letters intended for 
the Springs are often missent, in consequence of their 
mis-direction. 

At both the villages of Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
there are always sufficient objects of amusement to 
render the transient residence of their summer guests 
pleasant and agreeable. Those whose taste is not 
gratified at the billiard rooms, which ai-e annexed to 
most of the boarding establishments, can always enjoy 
a mental recreation at the reading rooms, or a short 
excursion in the neighborhood, where sufficient beauty 
and novelty of scenery are always presented to render 
it interesting. The amusements of the day are usually 
crowned with a ball or promenade. The respective 
apartments appropriated for these occasions are calcu- 
lated to accommodate from 150 to 200 guests; but 
they often contain a much greater number. 

The spacious areas of the cotillion rooms are be- 
tween 80 and 90 feet in length, and when enlivened by 
the associated beauty and gaiety resorting to the 
springs, present a scene of novelty and fascination sel- 
dom equalled. 

Among other amusements in the place may be men- 
tioned the trout fishery at Mr. Manger's pond, near the 



SARATOGA LAKE. 169 

Washington Spring in the south part of the village. 
The location is pleasant, and the pond is surrounded 
with trees, rendering it a cool and desirable retreat. 

About two miles east from Saratoga Springs there is 
also a small fish pond, situated on the farm of a Mr. Bar- 
hyte. Parties often resort thither as well to enjoy tho 
amusements of fishing as to partake of a repast on 
trout, the proprietor reserving to himself the exclusive 
privilege of serving them up. Still further east, about 
four miles from the Springs, is situated 

Saratoga Lake. This lake is 9 miles long and 3 
broad. A resort is constantly kept up at Greene's and 
at Riley's, on the western margin of the lake, the for- 
mer about four and the latter about six miles distant 
from Saratoga Springs, and the same distance from 
Ballson Spa. The visitants of both villages frequently 
resort thither, to enjoy the advantages of air and pros- 
pect during the months of July and August. Sail boats 
are here fitted up for the accommodation of parties of 
pleasure, and implements for fishing are always in 
readiness for those who take pleasure in this fashiona- 
ble diversion. The western shores of this lake are ac- 
cessible but in a few places, in consequence of the ad- 
jacent marshes ; on the east side the land is more ele- 
vated, and presents a fine prospect of farms imder good 
improvement. Besides a variety of excellent fish, an 
abundance of wild game is found on the lake and marsh- 
es and along its borders. This lake is supplied with 
water from the Kayadcrosseras creek, which, taking its 
rise about 20 miles in a northwest direction, and receiv- 
ing in its course a number of tributary streams, flows 
into the lake on the west side. Fish creek forms ita 



ITO BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 

©utlet, through which the waters of the lake are com- 
municated to the Hudson river about 8 miles distant, 
in an easterly direction. This creek empties into tho 
Hudson river at Schuyler-Ville, noticed at page 185. 

Bemus' Heights, rendered memorable as the spot 
on which the British army under Gen. Burgoyne was 
defeated, in the revolutionary contest, are about 8 miles 
in a south-eastwardly direction from Greene's on the 
Saratoga Lake. The battle ground is about two miles 
west of the Hudson river ; and though without much 
to attract in its location or surrounding scenery, will 
nevertheless at all times prove interesting from its as- 
sociation with events which greatly contributed to the 
establishment of American independence. 

The two actions which preceded the surrender of 
the British army were fought on the 19th of Septem- 
ber, 1777, and on the 7th of October followiug. The 
movements and position of the two armies previous to 
the 19th, are thus described by General Wilkinson : 

" General Burgoyne crossed the Hudson river the 
13th and 14th of September, and advanced with great 
circumspection on the 15th from Saratoga to Davocote, 
where he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 
16th was employed in this labour, and in reconnoiter- 
ing: on the 17th he advanced a mile or two, resumed 
his march on the ISth, and General Arnold was de- 
tached by General Gates, with 1500 men to harrass 
him ; but after a light skirmish, he returned without 
loss or effecting any thing more than picking up a few 
stragglers : and the enemy moved forward and en- 
camped in two lines, about two miles from General 
Gates ; his left on the river, and his right extending at 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 171 

right angles to it, across the low grounds about six 
hundred yards, to a range of steep and lofty heights 
occupied by his elite, having a creek or gulley in his 
front, made by a rivulet which issued from a great ra- 
vine, formed by the hills which ran in a direction near- 
ly parallel to the river, until within half a mile of the 
American camp. 

" General Gates' right occupied the brow of the hill 
near the river, with which it was connected by a deep 
intrenchmcnt ; his camp in the form of a segment of a 
great circle, the convex towards the enemy, extended 
rather obliquely to his rear, about three fourths of a 
mile to a knoll occupied by his left ; his front was cov- 
ered from the right to the left of the centre by a sharp 
ravine running parallel with his line and closely wood- 
ed ; from thence to the knoll at his extreme left, the 
ground was level and had been partially cleared, some 
of the trees being felled and others girdled, beyond 
which, in front of his left flank, and extending to the 
enemy's right, there were several small fields in a very 
imperfect cultivation, the surface bioken and obstruct- 
ed with stumps and fallen timber, and the vv hole boun- 
ded on the west by a steep eminenee. The extremi- 
ties of this camp were defended by strong batteries, 
and the interval was strengthened by a breast work 
without intrenchments, constructed of the bodies of 
felled trees, logs and rails, with an additional battery 
at an opening left of the centre. The right was almost 
impracticable ; the left difficult of approach. I describe 
the defences of this position as they appeared about 
the 4th of October. 



172 EEMUS' HEIGHTS. 

** The intermediate space between the adverse ar- 
mies, on the low grounds of the river, was open and in 
cultivation ; the high land jvas clothed in its native 
woods, with the exception of three or four small, new- 
ly opened and deserted farms, separated by intervals 
of wood land, and bordering on the flanks of the two 
armies, most remote from the river ; the principal of 
these was an oblong field, belonging to a person of the 
name of Freeman, (noticed at p. 181 ;) there was also 
exclusive of the ravines fronting the respective camps, 
a third ravine about mid-way between them, running 
at right angles to the river. The interv+^ning forest 
rendered it utterly impracticable to obtain a front view 
of the American position, or any part of the British ex- 
cept its left, near the river." 

On the morning of the 19th, Colonel Colburn, who 
had been detached the day previous to observe the 
movements of the enemy, reported that the British ar- 
my was in motion and ascending the heights in a di- 
rection towards the American left. On receiving this 
intelligence, Col. Morgan, with his rifle corps, was de- 
tached by Gen. Gates, with orders to retard the march 
of the enemy, and to cripple them as much as possible. 
The engagement of Morgan's corps was announced by 
the report of small arms about 12 o'clock. At about 
3 in the afternoon the action became general, and con- 
tinued to rage till night closed upon the scene of com- 
bat. The number of troops engaged on the part of the 
Americans was 3000. That of the British amounted to 

3500. General Wilkinson remarks that, 

"This battle was perfectly accidental: neither ot 

the generals meditated an attack at the time, and but 



BEMUS HEIGHTS. 173 

tor Lieutenant Colonel Colburn's report, it would not 
have taken place ; Burgoyne's movement being merely 
to take gi-ound on the heights in front of the great ra- 
vine, to give his several corps their proper places in 
line, to embrace our front and cover his transport, 
stores, provisions and baggage, in the rear of his left ; 
and on our side the defences of our camp being not 
half completed, and reinforcements daily arriving, it 
xvas not General Gate's policy to court an action. 

" The theatre of action was such, that although the 
combatants changed ground a dozen times in the course 
of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where 
it began. This may be explained in a few words. The 
British line was formed on an eminence in a thin pine 
wood, having before it Freeman's farm, an oblong field 
stretching from the centre towards its right, the ground 
in front sloping gently down to the verge of this field, 
which was bordering on the opposite side by a close 
wood ; the sanguinary scene lay in the cleared ground, 
between the eminence occupied by the enemy and the 
wood just described ; the fire of our marksmen from 
this wood was two deadly to be withstood by the en- 
emy in line, and when they gave way and broke, our 
men rushing from their covert, pursued them to the 
eminence, where, having their flanks protected, they 
rallied, and charging in turn, drove us back into the 
wood, from whence a dreadful fire would again force 
them to fall back ; and in this manner did the battle 
fluctuate, like waves of a stormy sea, with alternate 
advantage, for four hours, without one moment's inter- 
mission. The British artillery fell into our possession 
at every charge, but we could neither turn the pieces 



174 

upon the enemy, nor bring them off; the wood prevent- 
ed the last, and the want of a match the first, as the 
hnt stock was invariably carried off, and the rapidity 
of the transitions did not allow us time to provide one. 
The slaughter of this brigade of artillerists was remark- 
able, the captain and 36 men being killed or wounded, 
out of 48. It was truly a gallant conflict, in which 
death by familiarity lost his terrors, and certainly a 
drawn battle, as night alone terminated it ; the British 
army keeping its ground in rear of the field of action, 
and our corps, when they could no longer distinguish 
objects, retiring to their own camp." 

The interval between the 19th of September and the 
7th of October was employed by both armies in fortify- 
ing their respective camps. Gen. Burgoyne had con- 
templated an attack on the 20th and 21st September, 
which, had it been made, would probably have result- 
ed much to his advantage, as the American camp was 
then in an unfortified state, and the troops wholly un- 
prepared for a vigorous resistance. For some cause, 
however, the attack was delayed. This gave time to 
Gen. Gates to complete the unfinished works, and to 
strengthen his army by reinforcements of militiamen, 
who were daily flocking to his camp. Satisfied that a 
delay would operate to the advantage of the American 
army, by increasing their strength and numbers, whilst 
at the same time it must prove disadvantageous to the 
enemy. General Gates, it seems, determined to wait 
their movements within his own entrenchments. Here 
he remained until the 7th October, when the last deci- 
sive action was fought, which decided the fate of the 
army under Gen. Burgoyne, and ultimately resulted in 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 175 

the triumph of American liberty. The commencement, 
progress and termination of this brilliant engagement 
are thus described by Gen. Wilkinson : 

" On the afternoon of October 7th, the advanced 
guard of the centre beat to arms ; the alarm was re- 
peated throughout the line, and the troops repaired to 
their alarm posts. I was at head quarters when this 
happened, and, with the approbation of the General, 
mounted my horse to inquire the cause ; but on reach- 
ing the guard where the beat commenced, I could ob- 
tain no other satisfaction, but that some person had re- 
ported the enemy to be advancing against our left. I 
proceeded over open ground, and ascending a gentle 
acclivity in front of the guard, I perceived about half a 
mile from the line of our encampment, several columns 
of the enemy, 60 or 70 rods from me, entering a wheat 
field which had not been cut, and was separated from 
me by a small rivulet ; and without my glass I could 
distinctly mark their every movement. After entering 
the field they displayed, formed the line, and eet'down 
in double ranks with their arms between their legs. 
Foragers then proceeded to cut the wheat or standing 
straw, and I soon after observed several officers, mount- 
ed on the top of a cabin, from whence with their glass- 
es they were endeavoring to reconnoitre our left, which 
was concealed from their view by intervening woods. 

" Having satisfied myself, after fifteen minutes at- 
tentive observation, that no attack was meditated, I 
returned and reported to the General, who asked me 
what appeared to be the intentions of the enemy. 
"They are foraging, and endeavoring to reconnoitre 
your left; and I think, sir, they offer you battle." 



176 

" What IS the nature of the ground, and what 3'ouf 
opinion ?" " Their front is open, and their flanks rest 
on the woods, under cover of which they may be at- 
tacked ; their right is skirted by a lofty height. I 
would indulge them." " Well, then, order on Morgan 
to begin the game." I waited on the Colonel, whose 
corps was formed in front of our centre, and delivered 
the order ; he knew the ground, and inquired the posi- 
tion of the enemy ; they were formed across a newly 
cultivated field, their grenadiers with several field pie- 
ces on the left, bordering on a wood and a small ravine 
formed by the rivulet before alluded to ; their hght in- 
fantry on the right, covered by a worm fence at the 
foot of the hill before mentioned, thickly covered with 
wood ; their centre composed of British and German 
battalions. Col. Morgan, with his usual sagacity, pro- 
posed to make a circuit with his corps by our left, and 
under cover of the wood to gain the height on the right 
of the enemy, and from thence commence his attack, 
so sodn as our fire should be opened against their left ; 
the plan was the best which could be devised, and no 
doubt contributed essentially to the prompt and deci- 
sive victory we gained. 

"This proposition was approved by the General, and 
it was concerted that time should be allowed the Col- 
onel to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station 
on the enemy's right before the attack should be made 
on their left ; Poor's brigade was ordered for this ser- 
vice, and the attack was commenced in due season on 
the flank and front of the British grenadiers, by the 
New-Hampshire and New- York troops. True to his 
purpose, Morgan at this critical moment poured down 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 177 

iikc a torrent from the hill, and attacked the right of 
the enemy in front and flank. Dearborn, at the mo- 
ment when the enemy's hght infantry were attempting 
to change front, pressed forward with ardor, and de- 
iivered a close fire ; then leaped the fence, shouted, 
charged, and gallantly forced them to retire in disor- 
der ; yet, headed by that intrepid soldier, the Earl of 
Balcarras, they were immediately rallied, and re-formed 
behind a fence in rear of their first position ; but being 
now attacked with great audacity, in front and flank, 
by superior numbers, resistartce became vain, and the 
whole line, commanded by Burgoyne in person, gave 
way, and made a precipitate and disorderly retreat to 
liis camp, leaving two twelve and six six-pounders on 
the field, with the loss of more than 400 officers and 
men, killed, wounded and captured, and among them 
the flower of his officers, viz. Brigadier General Frazer; 
Major Ackland, commanding the grenadiers ; Sir Fran- 
cis Clark, his first aid-de-camp ; Major Williams, com- 
manding oflTicer of the artillery ; Captain Mooney, de- 
puty quarter-master-general ; and many others. After 
delivering the order to General Poor, and directing him 
to the point of attack, I was peremptorily commanded 
to repair to the rear, and order up Ten Broeck's regi- 
ment of New- York militia, 3000 strong. I performed 
this service and regained the field of battle at the mo- 
ment the enemy had turned their backs-— 52 minutes 
after the first shot was fired. The ground which had 
been occupied by the British grenadiers, presented a 
scene of complicated horror and exultation. In the 
square space of twelve or fifteen yards lay eighteen 
grenadiers in the agonies of death, and three officers 



178 BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 

propped up against stumps of trees, two of them mor- 
tally wounded, bleeding, and almost speechless. What 
a spectacle for oris whose bosom glowed with philan- 
thropy ; and how vehement the impulse which excites 
men of sensibility to seek such scenes of barbarism ! I 
found the courageous Col. Cilley a-straddle on a brass 
twelve pounder, and exulting in the capture ; whilst a 
surgeon, a man of great worth, who was dressing one 
of the officers, raising- his blood-besmeared hands in 
the phrensy of patriotism, exclaimed, " Wilkinson, I 
have dipped my hands in British blood." He received 
a sharp rebuke for his brutality ; and with the troops I 
pursued the hard pressed flying enemy, passing over 
killed and wounded, until I heard one exclaim, " Pro- 
tect me, sir, against this boy." Turning my eyes, it 
was my fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad thirteen 
or fourteen years old, in the act of takmg aim at a 
wounded officer, who lay in the angle of a worm fence. 
Inquiring his rank, he answered, "I had the honor to 
command the grenadiers." Of course, I knew him to 
be Major Ackland, who had been brought from the 
field to this place, on the back of a Captain Shrimpton, 
of his own corps, under a heavy fire, and was here de- 
posited, to save the lives of both. I dismounted, took 
him by the hand, and expressed my hopes that he was 
not badly wounded. " Not badly," replied this gallant 
officer and accomplished gentleiaan, *' but very incon- 
veniently. I am shot through both legs. Will you, 
sir, have the goodness to have me conveyed to your 
camp ?" I directed my servant to alight, and we lifted 
Ackland into his seat, and ordered him to be conducted 
to head quarters. I then proceeded to the scene of 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 179 

renewed action, which embraced Burjroyne's right 
flank defence, and extending to his left, crossed a hol- 
low covered with wood, about 40 rods, to the intrench- 
ment of the hght infantry. The roar of the cannon 
and small arms, at this juncture, was sublime, between 
the enemy, behind their works, and our troops entirely 
exposed, or partially sheltered by trees, stumps or hol- 
lows, at various distances, not exceeding 120 yards. 
This right flank defence of the enemy, occupied by the 
German corps of Breyman, consisted of a breast work 
of rails piled horizontally between perpendicular pick- 
ets, driven into the earth, en potence to the rest of his 
line, and extended about 250 yards across an open 
field, and was covered on the right by a battery of two 
guns. The interval from the left to the British hght 
infantry, was committed to the defence of the provin- 
cialists, who occupied a couple of log cabins. The 
Germans were encamped immediately behind the rail 
breast work, and the ground in front of it declined, in 
a very gentle slope, for about 120 yards, when it sunk 
abruptly. Our troops had formed a line under this de- 
clivity, and covered breast high, were war':idy engaged 
with the Germans. From this position, about sunset, 
I perceived Brigadier General Learned advancing to- 
wards the enemy with his brigade, in open column, I 
think with Col. M. Jackson's regiment in front, as I 
saw Lieutenant Colonel Brooks, who commanded it, 
near the General when I rode up to him. On saluting 
this brave old soldier, he inquired, " Where can I put in 
with most advantage ?" I had particularly examined 
the ground between the left of the Germans and the 

light infantrv, occupied by the provincialists, from 
p2 



ISO BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 

whence I had observed a slack fire. I therefore recom" 
mended to General Learned to incline to his right, and 
attack at that point. He did so, with great gallantry ; 
the provincialists abandoned their position and fled. 
The German flank was, by this means, left uncovered. 
They were assaulted vigorously, overturned in five 
minutes, and retreated in disorder, leaving their gallant 
commander, Lieut. Colonel Breyman, dead on the field. 
By dislodging this corps, the whole British encamp- 
ment was laid open to us ; but the extreme darkness 
of the night, the fatigue of the men, and the disorder 
incident to undisciplined troops, after so desultory an 
action, put it out of our power to improve, the advan- 
tage ; and, in the course of the night. General Burgoyne 
broke up his camp, and retired to his original position, 
which he had fortified, behind the great ravine." 

On the morning of the 8th, the American army 
marched into the British camp, which had been de- 
serted the evening previous. The enemy continued to 
retreat till they had reached the height beyond the Fish 
creek, where they encamped on the lOth. Finding his 
retreat cut off* by a party of troops, who had taken a 
position in his rear, and his advance impeded by supe- 
rior numbers, General Burgoyne accepted the terms of 
capitulation, proposed by General Gates, and surren- 
dered his whole army to the American forces, on the 
17th October, 1777. The surrender took place at Fort 
Hardy, where the British stacked their arms, and were 
permitted to march out with the honors of war. This 
fortunate event was followed by a succession of bril- 
liant achievements, and finally led to the surrender of 
Lord ComwaUis, which terminated the stmggle of the 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 181 

revolution, after a period of n-early 8 years from its 
commencement. 

Freeman's Farm, on which the principal actions 
were fought, is immediately east of the main road run- 
ning north and south, a road passing directly across it 
to the Hudson river in an eastwardly direction. In a 
meadow adjoining the first mentioned road, about ten 
rods south of a blacksmith's shop, and near the fence, 
is the spot where Gen. Frazerfell. A large bass-wood 
tree marked the place for a time ; but having been cut 
down, several sprouts which have sprung up from the 
parent stock, now designate the spot. A few rods di- 
rectly south of this, on a slight eminence, is shown the 
place where Col. Cilley sat a-straddle of a brass twelve 
pounder, exulting in its capture ; and about half a mile 
still farther south is shown the house, still standing, 
which was used by Gen. Gates as his head-quarters. 

In proceeding to the river, the hill on which General 
Frazer is buried is pointed out, about a mile and a half 
east of the battle ground, and 20 rods north of the road. 
His remains were deposited at his request, within a 
redoubt on the top of this hill. The redoubt, which is 
of an oblong form, from 100 to 150 feet in diameter, is 
still perfectly visibl ^ ; and the spot of Gen. Frazer's in- 
terment is near the centre. The British government, 
a few years since, employed an agent to erect a monu- 
ment to his memory ; but proving faithless, he appro- 
priated the money with which he was entrusted to his 
own use, and returned without effecting the object of 
his mission, pretending his inability to discover the spot 
in question. It therefore continues undistinguished by 
a monument, or even a stone, to mark the place where 
repose the remains of this gallant warrior. 



182 BEMUS' HEHiHTS. 

Smith's House, in which General Frazer died,* and 
which, at that time, stood near the foot of this hill, has 
been removed about 80 rods in a north-eastwardly di- 
rection to the turnpike. It is a low old fashioned 



* General Frazer died on the 8th of October, 1777, 
from wounds received in battle the day previous. A 
narrative of his death is given by the Baroness DeReid- 
sell, who, with her two children, occupied the house in 
which the General expired. The following is an ex- 
tract : 

" But severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th Octo- 
ber our misfortunes began ; I was at breakfast with my 
husband, and heard that something was intended. On 
the same day I expected Generals Burgoyne, Philips 
and Frazer to dine with us. I saw a great movement 
among the troops ; my husband told me, it was merely 
a reconnoissance, which gave me no concern, as it of- 
ten happened. I walked out of the house and met sev- 
-eral Indians in their war dresses, with guns in their 
hands. When I asked them where they were going, 
they cried out, War] War! (meaning that they were 
going to battle.) This filled me with apprehension, 
and I had scarcely got home, before I heard reports of 
cannon and musketry, which grew louder b\' degrees, 
till at last the noise became excessive. About 4 o'clock 
in the afternoon instead of the guests whom I expected. 
Gen. Frazer was brought in on a litter, mortally woun- 
ded. Tiie table which was already set, was instantly 
removed, and a bed placed in its stead for the wounded 
General. I sat trembling in the corner ; the noise 
grew louder and the alarm increased ; the thought thai 
my husband might perhaps be brought in, wounded in 
the same way, was terrible to me, and distressed me 
exceedingly. General Frazer said to the surgeon, ^'tdi 
me if my wound is mortal, do not Jlatter 7n«." The ball 
had passed through his body, and unhappily for the 
General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, bj' which 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 18S 

Dutch building, with the gable end to the river, paint- 
ed yellow — the sides red, and shingle roof. The en- 
trance is towards the river, under an old and dilapida- 
ted portico — and the whole bears the marks of anti- 



the stomach was distended, and the ball, as the sur- 
geon said, had passed through it. I heard him often 
exclaim with a sigh, '* Oh fatal ambition ! Poor General 
Bur^oyne ! Oh iny poor xoife .'" He was asked if he had 
any request to make, to which he replied, that " if Gen, 
Burgoyne would permit it, he should like to be buried at 6 
o'clock in the evening, on the top of a mountain, in, a re- 
doubt which had been built there.'''' I did not know which 
way to turn, all the other rooms were full of sick. To- 
wards evening I saw my husband coming, when 1 for- 
got all my sorrows, and thanked God that he was spar- 
ed to me. He ate in great haste with me and his aid- 
de camp, behind the house. We had been told that we 
had the advantage of the enemy, but the sorrowful 
faces I beheld told a different tale, and before my hus- 
band went away he took me one side, and said every 
thing was going very bad, that I must keep myself in 
readiness to leave the place, but not to mention it to 
any one. I made the pretence that I would move the 
next morning into my new house, and had every thing 
packed up ready. 

*' Lady H. Ackland had a tent not far from our 
house. In this she slept, and the rest of the day she 
was in the camp. All of a sudden, a man came to tell 
her that her husband was mortally wounded and taken 
prisoner. On hearing this, she became very miserable. 
We comforted her by teUing her that the woimd was 
only slight, and at the same time advised her to go over 
to her husband, to do which she would certainly ob- 
tain permission, and then she could atteu'l him heVself. 
She was a charming woman, and very fond of him. I 
spent much of the night in comforting her, and then 
went again to my children, whom I had put to bed. I 



184 BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 

quity — tlie only addition to it being a small out house. 
The room in which Gen. Frazer died is directly in front, 
and has undergone no material change since that period. 



could not go to sleep, as I had Gen. Frazer, and all the 
other wounded gentlemen, in my. room, and I was sad- 
ly afraid my cliildren would awake, and by their crying 
disturb the dying man in his last moments, who often 
addressed me, and apologized "/or the trouble he gave 
me." About three o'clock in the morning I was told 
he could not hold out much longer. I had desired to 
be informed of the near approach of this sad crisis ; 
and I then wrapped up my children in their clothes, 
and went with them into the room below. About 8 
o'clock in the morning he died. After he was laid out, 
and his corpse wrapped in a sheet, we came again into 
the room, and had this sorrowful sight before us the 
whole day ; and to add to the melancholy scene, almost 
every moment some officer of my acquaintance was 
brought in wounded. The cannonade commenced 
again ; a retreat was spoken of, but not the smallest 
motion made towards it. About 4 o'clock in the after- 
noon, I saw the house which had just been built for me 
in flames, and the enemy was not far off". We knew 
that Gen. Burgoyne would not refuse the last request 
of Gen. Frazer, though by his acceding to it, an unne- 
cessary delay was occasioned, by which the inconve- 
nience of the army was much increased. At 6 o'clock 
the corpse was brought out, and we saw all the generals 
attend it to the mountain. The chaplain, Mr. Bruden- 
ell, performed the funeral service, rendered unusually 
solemn and awful from its being accompanied by con- 
stant peals from the enemy's artillery. Many cannon 
balls flew close by me, but I had my eyes directed to- 
wards the mountain, where my husband was standing, 
amidst the fire of the enemy, and of course I could not 
think of my owm danger. Gen. Gates afterwards said, 
that if he had known it had been a funeral, he would 
jjot have permitted it to be fired on." 



SCHUYLER-VILLE. 1:85 

About half a mile south of Smith's house, near the 
river, is the residence of Major Ezra Buell, who was 
in the army of Gen. Gates, and who has since contin- 
ued to reside on this interesting spot. Though advan- 
ced to the age of 86 years, his memory is still good, and 
he yearly accompanies strangers in their excursions 
over the battle ground, pointing out to them the differ- 
ent scites on which the most important events trans- 
pired. Eight miles north of this, on the turnpike, is 
the village of 

Schuyler- ViLLE, noted as the residence of the late 
Gen. Schuyler, and still more so as the place where 
Gen. Burgoyne surrendered to the American army in 
October, 1777. 

The ground on which the surrender took place, was 
in a vale nearly east, and in plain view of Barker's stage 
house on the turnpike in Schuyler- Ville, and still ex- 
hibits the remains of an intrenchment called Fort Har- 
dy. About 40 rods in a south-east direction, at the 
mouth of Fish creek, is the scite of Fort Schuyler. 
The arras of the British were stacked in the vale in 
front of Fort Hardy, and from thence they were march- 
ed to the high grounds a little west of the village, and 
admitted to parol as prisoners of war. At the south- 
ern extremity of the vale is a basin for the northern ca- 
nal, which passes through this place. About half a 
mile south of the basin stands the house of Philip Schuy- 
ler, Esq., located on the spot where once stood the 
mansion of his grandfather, the intrepid Gen. Schuyler, 
which, with other buildings, was burnt, by the British 
army» on their retreat from the battle of the 7th, 



186 FORT-EDWARD. 

The vlilage contains 70 or 80 houses, and an exten- 
sive cotton factory and machine shop — the latter own- 
ed by Mr. Schuyler. 

Fort-Edward is 12 miles north of Schuyler- Ville. 
It is not on the usual route of travellers from the 
Springs to Lake George ; but being a short distance 
only from Sandy-Hill, it may be easily visited. The 
fort, once situated where the village now stands, has 
long since been demolished ; though its former loca- 
tion is easily traced in the mounds of earth w^hich are 
still visible. About 100 rods north of the village is a 
dam across the Hudson river, 27 feet high and 900 feet 
long, supplying with wajter a feeder to the Northern 
Canal. The cost of this dam was v$30,000. There is 
also a permanent bridge across the river a short dis- 
tance below. 

One mile north of Fort-Edward, on the west side of 
the road, the traveller is shown a large pine tree, with 
a spring near its foot, memorable as the spot where 
Miss M'Crea was murdered by the Indians during the 
revolution ai*y war. She was betrothed to a Mr. Jones, 
an American refugee, who was in Burgoyne's army. 
Anxious for a union with his intended bride, he dis- 
patched a party of Indians to escort her to the British 
camp. Against the remonstrance of her friends, she 
committed herself to their charge. She was placed on 
horseback, and accompanied her guides to the spring 
in question, where they were met by another party sent 
on the same errand. An altercation ensued between 
them as to the promised reward, (which was a barrel of 
rum,) and while thus engaged, they were attacked by 
the whites. At the close of the conflict, the unhapp\ 



SANDY HILL — GLEn's FALLS. 187 

young M'oman was found a short distance from the 
spring, tomahawked and scalped. There is a tradition 
that her scalp was divided by the respective parties, 
and carried to her agonized lover. He is said to have 
survived the shock but a short time ; and to have died 
of a broken heart. The name of Miss M'Crea is in- 
scribed on the tree, with the date 1777. Her remains 
were disinterred a few years since, and deposited in 
the church-yard at Sandy Hill. 

Sandy Hill is two miles from Fort Edward, on the 
route from Saratoga Springs to Lake George. It is sit- 
uated on the margin of the Hudson river, immediately 
above Baker's Falls, about 18 miles from the Springs. 
A wooden bridge extends across the river at this place, 
from which the road leads up a precipitous ascent, on 
the summit of which the village is situated. The 
streets are laid out in the form of a triangle. In the 
centre is an open area, surrounded by handsomely 
constructed stores and dwellings. The village con- 
tains upwards of 100 houses, and about 500 inhabi- 
tants. The courts of the county are held alternately 
here and at Salem. 

Glen's Falls, a village of about the same size of 
Sandy Hill, is 3 miles further up the Hudson river, on 
the direct route to Lake George. At this place are the 
celebrated falls from which the village takes its name. 
These are situated about 1-4 of a mJle south of the vil- 
lage, near to a permanent bridge, extending partly over 
the falls, and from which the best view of them may 
be had. The falls "are formed by the, waters of he 
Hudson, which flow in one sheet over the brink of the 
precipice, but are immediately divided by the rock& inttt. 



188 glen's falls. 

three channels. The height of the falls is ascertained, 
by measurement, to be 63 feet ; though the water flows 
in an angular descent of 4 or 500 feet. Some rods be- 
low the falls, is a long cave in the rocks, extending 
from one channel to the other. On its walls are in- 
scribed a variety of names of former guests, who have 
thought proper to pay this customaiy tribute. The 
rocks, which are at some seasons covered with water, 
but at others entirely dry, are chequered by small in- 
dentations, and in many places considerable chasms 
are formed, probably by pebbles kept in motion by the 
falling water. It is very evident that these falls, like 
those of Niagara, were once a considerable distance 
lower down the river — the banks below being compo- 
sed of shelving rocks, from 30 to 70 feet perpendicular 
height. On the north side of the river is a navigable 
feeder, communicating with the Champlain canal. It 
commences nearly two miles above the falls ; and with 
the exception of about a quarter of a mile, which ap- 
pears to have been cut out of a shelving rock, runs 
along a ravine east of Sandy-Hill ; and intersects the 
main canal some distance below.* 



* Jessvp's Falls, which are about 10 miles above 
Glen's Falls on the Hudson, are worthy the attention 
of travellers. The whole scenery is highly romantic and 
picturesque, and the descent of the falls, which are 
perpendicular, and embrace the whole river in an en- 
tire sheet, is nearly 100 feet. Five miles farther north 
are the Hadlet Falls, which are a succession of pitch- 
es over a rocky and imeven bed. The whole descent, 
commencing at the upper fall, is between 80 and 100 
feet. Over the lower fall a permanent bridge, (see en- 
graving,) about 50 feet from the water is erected. The 



HADLEY FALLS. 189 

Conveyances from Sandy Hill, via Glen's Falls, to 
Lake George, may at all times be procured, for the 
moderate fare of one dollar. From Glen's Falls to the 
Lake the distance is 9 miles, over on indifferent road, 
affording little other variety than mountains and forests, 
with here and there a rustic hamlet. Within 3 1-2 
miles of Lake George on the right hand, and a short 
distance from the road, is pointed out the rock, at the 
foot of vv^hich Col. Williams was massacred by the In- 
dians, during the French war. At the distance of 1-2 a 
mile farther, on the same side of the road, is the 
*' Bloody Pond^''^ so called from its waters having been 
crimsoned with the blood of the slain who fell in its vi- 
cinity, during a severe engagement in 1755. It is said, 
that skulls are found in the neighborhood of this pond, 
and that numerous others may be taken from the bot- 
tom. Three miles farther is situated the village of 



river is here contracted to a very narrow space, within 
lofty rocky embankments, between which the water 
rushes with great force and wildness into the basin be- 
low, uniting with the Sacondaga i*iver, a large and rapid 
stream, which rises about 60 miles at the north-west. 
Both of these rivers abound with trout and other fish, 
affording ample employment for those who are fond of 
angling. The country here is extremely rugged and 
mountainous, and presents but little appearance of cul- 
tivation. 

Travellers designing to visit these places, will find it 
the most convenient to take a carriage at Saratoga 
Springs, from which to Jessup's Falls is 14 miles, and 
to Hadley Falls 5 miles farther. The route is over a 
good road, and, including a visit of two or three hours, 
may be easily performed (going and returning) in a day. 



190 LAKE GEORGE. 

Caldwell, on the southwestern margin of the lake. 
This village contains a number of neat little buildings, 
and about 60 inhabitants. The Lake George CofTee- 
House, kept by Mr. Baird, has been fitted up in good 
style, and can accommodate from 80 to 100 visitants. 
There are here, also, a post-office, a church, and a 
court-house. The village is bordered on the east by a 
range of hills, to the highest of which, called Prospect 
Hill, a road has been made, and though difficult of 
ascent, the toil is richly compensated in the diversified 
and extensive prospect afforded from its summit. 

LAKE GEORGE, 

Is situated but a short day's ride from the village of 
Saratoga Springs, (27 miles,) from whence an excur- 
sion to the Lake is considered as a matter of course. 
Indeed, there are few places where a greater variety of 
inducements attract the stranger than at Lake George. 
Besides the interest which is excited from an associa- 
tion of many important historic events, this place is 
rendered peculiarly interesting from the unrivalled ex- 
hibition of the beautiful and romantic scenery present- 
ed by the lake and its environs. At the village of Cald- 
well the lake is about one mile in width, but it general- 
ly varies from 3-4 of a mile to 4 miles. The whole 
length is 36 miles. The waters are discharged into 
Lake Champlain, at Ticonderoga, by an outlet which, 
in the distance of 2 miles, falls ISO feet. 

Lake George is remarkable for the transparency of 
its waters. They are generally very deep, but at an 
ordinary depth the clean gravelly bottom is distinclly 
visible. The great variety of excellent fish wliich are 
caught here, renders it a favorite resort for those who 



LAKE GEORGE. 191 

are fond of angling. The salmon trout is caught in 
abundance, weighing from 12 to 20 pounds. The lake- 
is interspersed with a great number of small islands, 
the principal of which, Diamond Island, once contain- 
ing a military fortification, and Tea Island, on which is 
a summer house erected for the amusement of parties 
of pleasure, are visible from the head of the lake. The 
whole number of islands is said to equal the number of 
days in the year. 

The scenery on the borders of the lake is generally 
mountainous. With the exception of some intervals, 
checkered with fruitful cultivation, the land recedes 
from tlie lake with a gentle acclivity, for a few rods, 
and then, with a bolder ascent, to an elevation of from 
500 to 1 500 feet. The best view of the lake and its 
environs is had from the southern extremity, near the 
remains of old Fort George,* from whence the prospect 
embraces the village of Caldwell and the numerous lit- 
tle islands rising from the calm bosom of the lake, 
whose waters are beautifully contrasted with the paral- 
el ridges of craggy mouniains, through an extent of 
nearly fourteen miles. Near the southern shore of the 
lake are the ruins of an old fortification, called 

Fort William Henry. Vestiges of the walls and 
out- works are still to be seen. Previous to its con- 
struction, the scite of the fort was occupied by the En- 
glish army under the command of Sir William Johnson, 



* A very good prospect is also obtained from the top 
of the Lake George House, to which a flight of stairs 
ascends ; but one far belter from Prospect Hill, pre- 
viously mentioned. 
^ r2 



19'4 LAKE GEORGE. 

who was making preparations for an attack upon 
Crown Point. Before any movement was made by 
Sir William, the French army, under the command of 
Baron Dieskau, marched from Ticonderoga for Fort 
Edward, but afterwards changing his purpose, he was 
proceeding to the head of the lake, when he unexpect- 
edly fell in with a party of the English, who had been 
detached by Sir William for the relief of Fort Edward. 
A severe battle ensued, in which the English were de- 
feated, and compelled hastily to retire from the field. 
They were pursued into their intrenchments by the 
French army, who commenced a furious assault upon 
the English camp, but were repulsed with great slaugh- 
ter. The discomfited Baron, on his retreat from this 
unsuccesful attack, was a third time engaged by a par- 
ty of English, who had been despatched by the garrison 
at Fort Edward, to succour Sir William Johnson, and 
totally defeated. These three several engagements 
took place on the same day, the 6th September, 1755, 
in the vicinity of Bloody Pond, into which the bodies of 
the slain were afterwards thrown. In 1757, Fort Wil- 
liam Henry contained a garrison of 3,000 men, under 
the command of Col. Munroe. The Marquis de Mont- 
calm, after three attempts to besiege the fort in fonn, 
reinforced his army to about 10,000 men, and summon- 
ed Col. Munroe to surrender. This summons being 
refused, Montcalm, after a furious assault, obliged the 
English to capitulate. The , terms of the capitulation, 
though honorable to the English, were shamefully vio- 
lated by the Indians attached to the French army, who 
massacred the whole garrison, except a small remnant, 
who made their escape to Fort Edward. The fort was 



LAKE GEORGE. 19?^ 

razed to the ground by Montcalm, and was never after- 
wards rebuilt. This spot was the scene of embarkation 
©f General Abercrombie, who, in 1758, descended the 
lake with an army of 15,000 men, for an attack on Ti- 
conderoga. About 80 rods farther south, on a com- 
manding eminence, are situated the vestiges of old 
Fort George. This fort, though not distinguished by 
any event of importance, yet in connexion with the his- 
tory of Lake George, imparts an interest which a stran- 
ger will readily embrace in a visit to its mouldering ru- 
ins. A part of the Avails, which were originally built of 
stone, are still visible, from 30 to 40 feet in height. This 
fort was the depot for the stores of General Burgoyne, 
for some time during the revolutionary war. 

The steam-boat Mountaineer usually performs a daily 
trip on Lake George so as to intersect the boats running 
on Lake Champlain ; leaving Caldwell in the morning, 
and returning at evening. The length of the Lake, on 
which the boat runs, is 36 milts — fare $2. From the 
steam-boat landing to Ticonderoga is a distance of 3 
miles ; for which a conveyance is provided, going and 
returning, for 50 cents each way. Refreshments are 
provided at Pierce's tavern, half a mile from the landing, 
after which parties usually proceed to the Fort, and re- 
turn to Pierce's the same evening, from v\ hence they 
may take the boat on its return the next day to Caldwell. 

The Passage of Lake George cannot fail to im- 
part a great degree of interest, even to the most indif- 
ierent observer. Tlxe Lake is interspersed with a great 
variety of islands, some of which are very small, but yet 
6er\-e the purpose of diversifying the prospect. The 
smooth, green surface of the water is strikingly con- 
trastftd with the bold and rugged shores of the Lake, 



194 LAKE GEORGE. 

which vary their distance from 3-4 of a mile to 4 miles 
in width, and occasionally rise to 1500 feet in height. 
These circumstances, added to the numerous histori- 
cal associations which are continually suggested to the 
mind, and to the animation which a fair day and pros- 
perous passage are calculated to impart, serve to create 
impressions which must always be remembered with 
peculiar satisfaction. 

Ten miles from Caldwell, down the Lake, are a range 
of mountains possessed by a celebrated hunter of the 
name of Phelps, as a Deer Pasture. In the spring, 
when the vegitation of the previous year is sufficiently 
dry. he sets fire to the mountains. Subsequently, green 
and tender herbs spring forth, and induce droves of deer 
to resort thither in quest of food ; by which means the 
hunter succeeds in killing hundreds annually. On the 
opposite side of the lake, at a very considerable eleva- 
tion, is the residence ofaM-ealthy farmer of Bolton. 
Two miles further is Twelve Mile Island, being that 
distance from Caldwell. It is of a circular form, of 
about 20 acres, situated in the centre of the lake, and 
is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the water. From thence 
one mile, on the north west side of the lake, is 

Ton CUE Mountain, with West Bat on its west side, 
1 1-2 mile wide, and extending in a northerly direction 
6 miles. What is called the Narrows commences here, 
and continues' for 6 or 7 miles, being 3-4 of a mile 
wide and very deep. A line 500 feet long has been 
ased in soumling, without reaching bottom. 

Black Mountain, 18 miles from the head of the 
Lake, is situated on the east side, and has been ascer- 
tained, by admeasurement, to be 2200 feet in height. 
Opposite to Black Mountain, near the western shore, is 



LAKE GEORGE. 195 

Half Way Island. A short distance north of this 
is some of the finest mouutain scenery on the conti- 
nent. The mountains exhibit an undulating appear- 
ance, are thickly studded with pines and furs, and in- 
terspersed with deep and almost impenetrable caverns. 
Sabbath-Day Poin t, 24 miles from Caldwell, is a pro- 
jection of the main land into the Lake from the west 
side. It is the place on which the English troops lan- 
ded on the sabbath during the French war, and is the 
spot on which a sanguinary battle was fought with the 
Indians. The English, with no chance of retreat, were 
all killed. From thence, 3 miles, is a small island call- 
ed the Scotch Bonnet. Three miles further on the 
west shore of the lake, is a little hamlet called by the 
inhabitants the city of Hague, containing only two or 
three dwellings, and as many saw mills. The lake is 
here 4 miles wide, being its greatest width. From thin 
place to 

Roger's Slide is 3 miles. This is celebrated as 
the spot where Col. Rogers escaped from the Indians 
during the French war. The descent is an angle of 
about 25 degrees, over a tolerably smooth rock, 200 
feet in height. The Col. who had been a great foe to 
the Indians, was nearly surrounded by them on the top 
of the mountain, and found no other means of escape 
than to slide down this precipice. It being winter, and 
having snow shoes on his feet, he landed safely on the 
ice. The Indians afterwards saw him ; but supposing 
that no human being could have made the descent, and 
that he must, of course, be supernatural, they concluded 
it not only useless, but dangerous to follow him. 

Anthony's Nose, so called from its singular shape, is 
a high rock, nearly opposite to Roger's Shde. The shores 



196 TICONDEROGA. 

here are bold and contracted, and exhibit massive rocks, 
which are from 50 to 100 feet in height. From thence to 
Prisoner's Island, is two miles, a spot where pris- 
oners were confined during the French war ; and di- 
rectly west of this is Lord Howe's Point, so called 
from being the place where Lord Howe landed imme- 
diately previous to the battle in which he was killed at 
Ticonderoga. He was a brother of the late Lord Howe, 
who commanded the British forces at Philadelphia du- 
ring the revolutionary war. The water here, from a 
deep green, assumes a lighter color, owing to a clayey 
bottom. From thence to the outlet of the lake, which 
terminates the steam-boat passage, is one mile. Three 
miles further, over a circuitous and uneven road, in an 
easterly direction, are the fort and ruins of 

Ticonderoga. The point projects between the lake 
on one side, which here suddenly expands to the west, 
and the creek on the other, which unites the waters of 
lake George and Champlain, and forms its southern 
boundary. On the opposite side of the lake, in a south- 
east direction, stands Mount Independence. Mount De- 
fiance, 720 feet in height, is situated across the creek 
directly west of the Fort. This height was occupied by 
the artillery of General Burgoyne in 1777, when the 
Americans were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. 
The fortress of Ticonderoga was first constructed by 
the French in 1756. The works appear to have been 
very strong, are elevated about 200 feet above the lev- 
el of lake Champlain, and many of the walls are still 
standing. The Magazine is nearly entire. It is 35 feet 
long, 15 feet wide, and 8 feet high, constructed under 



TICONDEROGA. 1 97 

ground, of stone, and arched. A subterraneous pas- 
sage leads from the southwest comer of the works to 
the lake, 20 or 30 rods in length. Through this pas- 
sage Col. Ethan Allen passed when he took possession 
of the fort " in the name of the Great Jehovah, and the 
Continental Congress.''^ The remains of another fortifi- 
cation, built during the revolutionary war, are still to 
be seen about 60 rods farther south on the point adjoin- 
ing the lake. The walls next the lake are nearly 60 
feet in height. 

In 175S Ticonderoga was attacked by general Aber- 
crombie, who was repulsed with the loss of 2000 men. 
On the approach of Gen. Amherst, in 1759, it was qui- 
etly abandoned by the French, as was also Crown Point. 
It continued in possession of the British until the year 
1775, when it was taken by Col. Allen. On evacuating 
the fort in 1777, Gen. St. Clair ordered a detachment 
to accompany the American stores and baggage to 
Skeensborough, where they were pursued by Gen. Bur- 
goyne and from thence to Fort Ann. At the latter 
place a smart skirmish ensued between the two parties, 
in which the British sustained a considerable loss. The 
main army retired from Ticonderoga to Hubbardton, 
where a party consisting of about 1000, under Col. 
Warner, were overtaken by the British advanced guard, 
and alter a severe action abandoned the field to supe- 
rior numbers. From thence they joined General Schuy- 
ler at Fort-Edward on the 12th July, 1777. 

From Ticonderoga, travellers may be conveyed across 
the lake to Larrabee's, in Shoreham, Vermont, a dis- 
tance of one mile, where those designing a tour to 
Montreal and Quebec, may take passage in the Cham- 



198 EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 

plain steam-boat, for St. John's. The boat arrives at 
Larrabee's towards evening, and the passage from 
thence to Plattsburgh, with the exception of about 1 5 
miles to Crown Point, is generally in the night. At 
present the most usual arrangements of the tourist are, 
after visiting Lake George and Ticonderoga, to return 
to the Springs, from thence to take passage in the reg- 
ular stage to Utica, by way of Johnstown ; or proceed 
to Schenectady, where a post coach or packet boat can 
be taken daily for Niagara. 

EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 

Travellers who design to visit Niagara and return, 
without proceeding down Lake Ontario to Montreal, 
will find an excursion the most pleasant and diversified 
by travelling in stages and canal boats alternately. The- 
stage route affords a better prospect of the populous 
parts of the country ; but is generally so far from the 
canal, that no opportunity is given of witnessing many 
of the thriving villages on its banks. It is therefore ad- 
visable so to arrange a tour that the most interesting 
parts of both routes may be seen in going and return- 
ing. To effect this, a packet boat may be taken at 
Schenectady at evening, which will pass Little Falls 
the next morning, affording the tourist an interesting 
view of the scenery and aqueduct at that place, and 
reach Utica in the afternoon. The next morning a 
stage can be taken for Rochester, via Auburn, reach- 
ing the former place at evening of the second day ; from 
whence a packet boat leaves every morning, reaching 
Lockport at daylight the next morning. Here a stage 
may be taken for the Falls, 20 miles distant, or the pas* 



STAGE ROUTE TO THE WEST. 199 

sQge, by canal, continued to Buffalo. But a better 
method, undoubtedly, if the fatigue of land travelling 
should not prevent, is, to continue on the stage route 
from Utica direct to Buffalo, by way of Auburn, Gene- 
va, Canandaigua and Batavia ; and return by canal from 
Lockport to Utica, stopping at least a day at each of 
the thriving villages of Rochester and Syracuse ; where 
objects of sufficient attraction will be found to warrant 
even a protracted visit. 

Heretofore, the months of July and August have been 
selected for an excursion to the west ; but experience 
has abundantly proved, that the early part of Septem- 
ber is far preferable. The heat of summer having then 
in a measure subsided, the air is more salubrious, and 
the pleasure of a journey less interrupted by dust, per- 
plexity and fatigue. Added to this, it is the season of 
peaches ; of which a great abundance of the most de- 
licious are to be found between Canandaigua and Buf- 
falo. 

That tourists may be the better enabled to gratify their 
taste as to the mode of travelling, we subjoin a sketch 
of the stage and canal routes, disconnected, premising, 
that a change from one to the other may be easily ef- 
^lected at various points. 

THE STAGE ROUTE. 
From Saratoga Springs, a stage leaves every morn- 
mg at 8 o'clock, passing through Ballston Spa, Galway, 
Tohnstown, and Little Falls to Utica, where it arrives 
.i 10 P. M. Distance, 88 miles— fare $3. The inter- 
mediate distances are as follows : 



200 STAGfi UOUTE TO UTICA— JOIiKSTO\\ >'. 

Miles. \ MUcH. 

Ballytun Spa, 7 I Fort Plain,. 3 

GaUv^y, 8 East C^aiuula Crock, 4 

Stimson'8 Farm, ... 1 Little Falls 7 

FoTida'9 Bush,, .... 9 1 Herkimer, S 

Johnstown, 10 j Frankfort, 6 

Caughnawaga, .... 4 Utica, 9 

Palatine, 12 | 

After passing Ballston Spa, the first object of attrac- 
tion is the FARM of Maj. Earl Stimson, in Galway, 16 
miles from Saratoga Springs. It is beautifully located 
on an eminence, commanding a very handsome pros- 
pect ; and, under the successful tillage of its opulent 
and hospitable proprietor, is one of the most favored 
tracts of land in the state. It is generally laid out in- 
to lots of 10 arces each ; all of which appear in the 
highest state of cultivation. To Maj. S. the farmers in 
the county, and particularly in his own town, are much 
indebted for many improvements suggested and adopt- 
ed by him in agriculture. 

Fonda's Bush, a small manufacturing village, is 10 
miles from Galway ; and 10 miles farther is the village of 

Johnstown, celebrated as the former residence of 
Sir William Johnson. The village contains between 
2 and 300 buildings, a court house, jail, 3 churches, an 
academy, and 2 printing offices. It is situated on a 
handsome plain, with streets running at right angles ; 
and though many of the buildings are antiquated, yet 
there are several handsome private residences. The 
court-house, jail and Episcopal church were built by 
Sir William ; beneath the latter of which his remains 
now repose. In opening the vault a few years since, it 
was found to contain so much water that the coffin 



STAGE ROUTE — FORT PLAIN. 201 

was actually floating on its surface. The lid, composed 
of mahogany, M'as taken off, and still remains inside of 
the church. It bears this inscription, formed with brass 
nails : " Sir Wm Johnson Bt Obiit 1774." The house, 
or what is called the " Hall," formerly occupied by Sir 
W. is about a mile from the village. Attached to it is 
a building" which was used by him as a fort ; into which 
he had occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults 
of the Indians. The marks of tomahawks are still vis- 
ible on the stair-case in the main building. 

The battle of Johnstown, October, 1781, in which 
the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on 
the " Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of 
between 4 and 500, were commanded by the venerable 
Col. Willet, who lately died at New- York. After the de- 
feat, the enemy were pursued by him to the Canada 
creek, where several were killed, including Maj. Butler. 
Out of 607 of the hostile force sent on this expedition, 
but 220 returned to Canada. 

Caughnawaga is 4 miles from Johnstown, on the 
turnpike leading from Schenectady to Utica, It has 
little to render it a place of interest, if we except an an- 
tiquated stone church, which has been built between 
GO and 70 years, without having undergone any mate- 
rial improvement or change during that period. 

Twelve miles farther, the stage stops at Palatine ; 
affording a beautiful prospect of the village of Canajo- 
HARiE, situated on the plain below, and on the banks 
of the canal. 

Fort Plain, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles 
vest of Palatine. A fort, from which the place derives 



202 STAGE KOUTE — MTTLE FALLS. 

its name, was constructed here during the revolution- 
ary war ; though but little of its remains are now to be 
seen. The place was originally settled by Germans, 
who suffered severely from the early Indian wars of 
this country. During the revolution, those who had 
taken refuge in the fort, were surprised by Capt. But- 
ler, on his return from burning Cherry Valley, and be- 
came a prey to similar atrocities. 

The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial 
bridge, in going 4 miles farther ; from which to 

Little Falls, is 7 miles. This place takes its name 
from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much 
inferior to the celebrated Cahoes, and has, therefore, 
been denominated the Little Falls of the Mohawk. A 
continuation of the chain of Catsbergs c;iosscs the riv- 
er at this place, and forms a rough bed for the waters 
of the cataract, which pour over the rocky fragments 
in the wildest confusion. Approaching from the south- 
east, a lofty ridge of mountains, frowning in grandeur 
on either side, conceals the course of the river and the 
falls, whose vicinity is announced only by the distant 
din and foam of its waters. For a considerable dis- 
tance, a narrow pass only is allowed for a road, with 
immense natural battlements of rock on either side, af- 
fording a sublime and most interesting spectacle. About 
1-2 a mile from the village the road turns suddenly to 
the left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with 
irresistible violence over a gradual rocky descent of 
about 80 rods. At the termination of the ascent is sit- 
uated the village, containing about 100 houses and 800 
inhabitants. A little cluster of buildings, rising be- 



STAGE ROUTE LITTLE FALLS. "iOiJ 

tween the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one 
hand, and the rugged chfFs and eminences on the oth- 
er ; the smooth current of the stream above gently 
gliding to the tumultuous scene below, and beyond the 
distant vale of the Mohawk diversified with fields, 
orchards, meadows, and farm houses, all contribute to 
set off the romantic appearance for which this place is 
so justly celebrated. This village derives most of its 
importance from the facilities for trade and commerce 
afforded by means of the Mohawk river and the Erie 
canal. Boats were formerly transported around the 
falls by means of a canal on the north side of the river. 
This old canal contains 8 locks and is now connected 
with the Erie canal on the south side of the river by 
means of an aqueduct 184 feet in length. The descent 
of the Erie canal here, in the distance of one mile, is 
40 feet, which is passed by 5 locks. 

Travellers will always find it interesting to spend 
some time at this place, in vie^ving its great natural 
and artificial works. The ^Bqueduct across the river is 
one of the finest specimens of masonry on the whole 
line of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks 
at Lockport, and, in extent, falling considerably short 
of the aqueduct at Rochester. The river is passed on 
three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, 
with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong 
iron railing. After crossing on the flagging, the strang- 
er should return on the wooden bridge west of the 
aqueduct; which being several feet lower, affords a 
fine view of the arches, and of the extensive basin in 
the river, immediately beneath the centre arch ; form- 
s2 



204 STAGE ROUTE — LITTLE FALLS. 

ed, doubtless, by the action of round stones set in mo- 
tion by the water. 

The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the 
river, winds its way for some distance along the side of 
a bold and lofly mountain, the channel resting on a 
wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of 
the river at great expense. The view afforded from a 
packet boat of mountain scenery on either side, with a 
bare passage for the dashing waters of the Mohawk 
between, is highly interesting and sublime. Whichev- 
er way the eye is turned, it rests on huge masses of 
granite and limestone, piled in heaps. These rocks in 
some places rise to a great height, almost perpendicu- 
lar, presenting a bleak black surface, unbleached by the 
thousand storms which have beat upon them ; others 
present a ragged and uneven face, crowned and over- 
hung by dark evergreens, dropping their verdure into 
the foaming torrent below ; the fissures between others 
of these huge piles produce hickory, maple and other 
trees, which hang from them, and with their sombre 
shadow deepen the gloomy darkness of the rocks from 
which they spring ; whilst the scanty soil upon others 
gives life and penurious nourishment to dwarf oaks and 
vegetation peculiar to similar inhospitable regions. In 
this scene, where the rude but magnificent works of 
nature are so profusely displayed, the imagination is 
overpowered, in their sublimity, and the proudest 
works of man, and man himself I'^se their importance. 
Even the canal, cut upon thp mighty and enduring pre- 
cipice — the road entrenched upon the mountain side, 
and the substantial locks and gates, all sink into com- 
parifivc incignifirnnce under the niightv shadows of 
the everlasting hills. 



STAGE ROUTE — HERKIMER. 205 

Crystals of quarts, the most translucent, it. is beliov- 
pcl, of any heretofore discovered ia the state, are found 
in considerable quantities a short distance from the 
village.* 

The road, after leaving Little Falls, follows the bank 
of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called 
the Herkimer and German Flats. This region, now 
glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, was 
once the theatre of the most sanguinary warfare. Du- 
ring the French and revolutionary wars, it was the 
scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as 
well as savages. It was invaded by the French after 
the capture of Fort Oswego in 1756, and in 1757 the 
settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the 
center of these flats is situated the village of 

Herkimer, 8 miles from Little Falls. This village, 
as well as that of Little Falls, forms a part of the town 
of Herkimer, which extends along the banks of the 
Mohawk about 15 miles. West Canada Creek enters 
the river about half a mile east of the village, and is 
passed near its mouth by a well constructed bridge. 
The village is principally built on two parallel streets. 
It contains about 100 houses, and not less than 800 in- 
habitants. Every appearance indicates a thriving and 
prosperous village. Between Herkimer and Utica is 



♦ About 10 miles SE. of this place, on the ravine of 
a small stream, which empties into the Osquake creek, 
are some of the most interesting specimens of petrifac- 
tions ever discovered in the country. They consist of 
a mass from 20 to 25 feet long, and from 3 to 5 feet in 
diameter, composed partly of petrifactions and partly 



206 UTICA. 

the small but thriving village of Frankfort, about 6 
miles from the former and 9 from the latter place. 
The country after leaving Herkimer is quite level, and 
remarkably fertile, though not in a high state of culti- 
vation. 

UTICA. 

This flourishing village stands on the south bank of 
the Mohawk river, 94 miles westwardly of Albany. It 
occupies the scite of old Fort Schuyler, where] a gar- 
rison was kept previous to the revolution. Some re- 
mains of this fort are still to be seen between the east- 
ern extremity of Main street and the river. A few Ger- 
mans were settled here previous to the revolutionary 
war 5 but a part were captured by the Indians and the 

of incrustations. The lower part exhibits the trunk of 
a hemlock tree, 2 feet in diameter, while the other parts 
seem to have been formed of fragments of the same 
kind of tree. The transition from wood to tufa has 
been effected with so much precision, that the whole 
ligneous structure of the wood, its concentric layers, 
coatings or rings, gum, knots, &c. are most perfectly 
preserved. From some unknown cause, the waters 
which issued out of the declivity above the mass have 
failed or been diverted, so that petrifaction has ceased 
at this spot. But in other parts of the declivity from 
which waters issue, they are so highly impregnated 
with calcareous and other matters as to incrust pieces 
of wood coming within their reach. Not far from this 
place, the road has been cut through a tufa rock of very 
large dimensions ; on the sides of which are seen pe- 
trified pieces of wood imbedded within the mass. 
Whenever time will permit, mineralogists will find it 
interesting to stop a day at Herkimer, for the purpose 
ofvisitinff these extraordinarv formations. 



UTICA. 

remnant sought a place of more 
permanent settler established hims( 
of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five ye 
families established themselves n iiir i'".i-. .i •.. .^ 
present village, and in 1798 a village charter was gi'^.; 
ted to the place ; since which it has rapidly increased 
in population. In 1813, it contained 1700 inhabitants ; 
in 1816, 2828 ; in 1820, 2972 ; in 1823, 4017 ; in 1826, 
6040 ; in 1828, 7460 ; and in 1829, 9081. The village ia 
regularly laid out, the streets of good width, and most- 
ly paved. Genesee street, in particular, is peculiarly 
pleasant, and for the most part adorned with elegant 
stores and dwellings. 

There are numerous literary, benevolent and reli- 
gious institutions in this place. Among these the Onei- 
da Institute of Science and Industry is perhaps most 
worthy of remark, from its uniting manual with men- 
tal labor on the part of the students. There is a farm 
attached to it comprising one hundred and fourteen 
acres, upon which each student labors from three to 
four hours per day, and it is said that the experiment 
of two years proves that labor from 3 to 5 hours per day 
pays the board of the student in this plentiful region. 
It is principally intended for the education of those de- 
signed for the ministry, but its privileges are common 
to all youth of unexceptionable character. There are 
also a classical academy, a library, lyceum, and 9 
churches, some of which are very elegant. 

Of the public houses, Brtg-g-'5 Tavern (see plate) by 
Messrs. Bagg and Churchill, is pleasantly located op- 
posite a wide area formed by the junction of Genesee, 
Main, John and Whitcsboro' streets, near the river* 



UTICA, 

and but a short distance from tho canal. It is a large 
establishment, well furnished and well kept, and may 
be justly ranked among tho best public houses in the I 
Union. The Mansion House, by Mr. Sanger ; the Ca- \ 
nal Coffee-House, by Mr. Wells ; the U. S. Hotel, by Mr. ' 
Shepherd ; the Oneida House, and Clinton House, are i 
also highly respectable and commodious establish- 
ments, enjoying an extensive patronage. 

The lands adjoining Utica are richly cultivated, pre- 
senting a succession of beautiful farms and country 
seats. There are also various objects of attraction in 
the vicinity, a visit to which may be ranked among 
the pleasures of an excursion to the west. Of these 
are Trenton Falls, at the north ; and Whitesborough, 
the York Mills, Clinton Village containing Hamilton 
College, and Rome, all within a few miles in a westerly 
direction. 

From what is called tho sitrnmit, an elevated spot 
near the village, a charming prospect may be had of 
the adjacent country, and particularly of the vale of 
the Mohawk for several miles in extent, including the 
beautiful and diversified farms which rise in a gentle 
acclivity from the river. 

Two daily lines of packets rim between Utica and 
Schenectady. The morning line leaves Utica at 8 A. M. 
on the arrival of the western boats, and the evening 
line at 8 P. M. The boats are 24 hours in passing 
from one place to the other. A daily line also runs 
between Utica and Buffalo, leaving Utica at 8 P. M. 
on the arrival of the eastern boats, and reaches Buffalo 
in 3 days. 



STAGES TO THE WEST. 209 

STAGES. 

The Diligence Mail Coach, which travels by duy- 
hght only, leaves Utica, daily, at 5 A. M. and arrives at 
Auburn the first day, Rochester and Avon tlie eecond, 
and Lewiston and Buffalo the third. 

The Pilot Coach leaves Utica, daily, on the arrival 
of the Schenectady packets in the evening, and reach- 
es Buffalo via Batavia, and Lewiston via Rochester, in 
2 days. 

The Eagle Coach leaves Utica every day, immedi- 
ately after the arrival of the 2 o'clock P. M. packet from 
Schenectady, and arrives at Canandaigua the following 
afternoon; at which place passengers may take the 
Pilot Coach for Buffalo via Batavia at 9 P. M. and for 
Rochester at 9 P. M. and 8 A. M. the next morning. 

The Union Line leaves Utica every day at 10 P. M. 
for Canandaigua, through in one day. 

The Pioneer Line also runs daily, Sundays except- 
ed. The stage fare from Utica to Canandaigua, 111 
miles, is §3,50 ; from Utica to Rochester, 142 miles, 
from $4 to $4,50 ; and from Utica to Buffalo, 200 miles, 
$6,50. The intermediate distances are as follows : 



JdUes. 

New-Hartford, 4 

Manchester, 5 

Vernon, 8 

Oneida Castle, 5 

Lenox, 3 

Quality Hill, 3 

Chittcningo, 5 

Manlius, 8 

.lamesville, 6 

Onondaga Hollow, . . 4 

Onondaga Hill, 3 



Miles. 

Marcellus, 8 

vSkaneateles, 6 

Auburn, 7 

Cayuga, 8 

Seneca Falls, 4 

Waterloo, 4 

Geneva, 7 

Canandaigua, 16 

East Bloomfield, ... 9 

West Bloomfield, . . 5 

Lima 4 



210 TRENTOW FALLS. 



Pembroke, 14 

Clarence, 8 

Williamsville, 8 

Buffalo, 10 



Miles. 

East Avon, '. . . 5 

Avon P. Office, 2 

Caledonia, 8 

Leroy, 6 

Batavia, 10 

During the warm season, stages also leave several 
times a day (fare $1 going and returning) for 

Trenton Falls, 14 miles north of Utica. A de- 
scription of these falls has been obligingly furnished to 
the editor of this work by James Macauley, Esq., au- 
thor of a History of the State of New- York, (a work of 
much merit, recently published) from which we make 
the following extracts : 

" These renowned Falls are on West Canada creek, 
between 22 and 24 miles above its confluence with the 
Mohawk. The West Canada creek is a powerful 
stream, and constitutes almost one half of the river at 
the coalescence. They commence a little above the 
high bridge on the Black river road, and terminate at 
Conrad's mills, occupying an extent of rather over 2 
miles. They are 6 in number. 

" The West Canada creek in its way from the sum- 
mit of the higlilands of Black river to its lower valley, 
lying between the latter and Hassenclever mountain, 
crosses a ridge of limestone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, 
stretching through the country from the Mohawk to 
the St. Lawrence, Its course over tliis ridge by its tor- 
tous bed is 6 or 7 miles, 2 1 -2 of which are above the 
/alls. The waters of the creek, soon after they have 
reached the limestone, move with accelerated strides 
over the naked rocks to the head of the upper fall, 
where they are precitated 18 or 20 feet down an ab- 



TRENTON FALLS. 2U 

rupt ledge into a spacious basin. The whole descent 
to the head of this fall in the last 2 miles is computed 
at 60 feet. Here a deep and winding ravine begins, 
which extends down the stream more than 2 miles. 
Its average depth is estimated at 100 feet, and its aver- 
age breadth at the top, 200. The sides and bottom 
consist of limestone disposed in horizontal layers, vary- 
ing in thickness from some inches to a foot and up- 
wards, and abound with organic remains. The sides 
of the ravine are shelving, perpendicular and overhang- 
ing ; and some of the trees that have taken root in the 
fissures of the rocks are now pendant over the abyss, 
where they form the most fanciful appearances imag- 
inable. The country along, and neighboring the ravine, 
descends to the south and is mostly covered with woods 
which exclude every appearance till you arrive upon 
the very verge. There are 6 falls ; that above the hig-h 
bridge on Black river road, called the Upper, and that 
at the end of the ravine, Conrad's Fall. The first in 
the ravine is a mile below the high bridge, and is de- 
nominated the Cascades; the second, a little lower 
down, is called the Mill-dam ; the third, by way of em- 
, inence, are called the High Falls, and are 40 rods be- 
i low the preceding ; the fourth is nearly 70 rods below 
j the High Falls, and is called Sherman's. All these are 
formed by solid reefs of rocks wliich cross the bed of 
the stream. 

"The water at the Upper Fall descends 18 or 20 feet 
perpendicularly. Below, there is a capacious basin, 
out of which the stream issues in a diminished bed in- 
to the ravine, the entrance of which is between lofty 
barriers of rocks. This fall, when viewed from the 

T 



212 



TliENTON FALLf*. 



bridge, or from the high ground w est of the creek, has 
a fine appearance. 

" At the Cascades, consisting of 2 piichee, whh in- 
tervening rapids, the water falls 16 feet. The bed of 
the stream is hero contracted, and the sides serrated, 
the banks of the ravine rising with abruptness almost 
directly in the rear. 

" The Mill-dam Fall, which is the second within the 
ravine, has an abrupt descent of 14 feet, the stream 
being about 60 yards broad at the break. 

" The High Falls are 40 rods below the latter, and 
consist of 3 distinct falls, with intervening slopes and 
some small pitches. The first has a perpendicular de- 
scent of 48 feet ; in floods and rises the water covers 
the whole break and descends in one sheet ; but nt 
other times, mostly in two grooves at the west side ot 
the fall. The second has a descent of about 11 feet ; 
the third 37 feet ; and the three, including the slopes 
and pitches, 109 feet. In freshets and floods, the en- 
tire bed at the High Falls is covered with water of a 
milk white color ; and the spray, which at such times 
ascends in pillars towards the sky, when acted upon 
by the rays of the sun, exhibits the rainbow in all its 
brilliant colors. 

" The fourth fall is Sherman's, and is distant nearly 
70 rods from the High Falls. The descent is 33 feet 
when the stream is low, and 37 wlien high. In drought- 
the water pitches down at the west side. 

" The last fall is at Conrad's mills, at the very foot of 
the ravine, and is 6 feet. 

"Besides the falls, there are several raceways ot 
chutes, from 10 to 20 rods long, through which the 



TBENTON FaLL!^. 213 

waters pass with great rapidity. The whole depres- 
sion of the stream from the top of the Upper Fall above 
tho high bridge to the foot of Conrad's is 312 feet; 
and if we add tho descent above the Upper Fall, M'hich 
is computed to bo 60 feet, and that below Conrad's 
fall in half a mile, which is estimated at 15 feet, we 
shall find that the entire depression in less than 5 miles, 
is 387 feet. 

" The falls, raceways and rapids, and, in truth, tho 
whole bed within the ravine, exVubit very different ap- 
pearances at different times. These are occasioned by 
the elevations and depressions of the stream. In floods, 
the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts 
and several chutes. 

" The best time to \asit these falls is when the stream 
is low, because then there is no inconvenience or diffi- 
culty in ascending the ravine from the foot of Sher- 
man's stairway to the head of the upper raceway. Few 
persons who visit them have resolution to ascend the 
ravine from the stairway to the basin at the upper fall. 
This, however, is not to bo wondered at, because the 
lofty rocky barriers which constitute the sides of the ra- 
vine advance to the water's edge in many places, and ter- 
minate in frightful projections, which cannot be passed 
without the most imminent danger. Some of these 
difficulties, however, have been obviated by blasting 
away portions of the rocks and putting up chains ; and 
persons now go up to tho upper raceway without haz- 
ard. 

"Tho ravine, with some feiv exceptions, is still bor- 
dered by woods, and persons desirous of visiting the 
falls are obliged to go to what is called Sherman's 



214 TRENTON FALLS. 

house, from whence they proceed through the woods 
by some nide paths. One of these leads to the stair- 
way, which descends to the bottom of the ravine, and 
another leads up to the High Falls. The former is usu- 
ally preferred. On reaching the strand at the foot of 
the stairway, you proceed up the stream at first upon 
the strand, and then by a narrow winding foot path 
to Sherman's fall. From thence you advance to the 
High Falls, a part of the way being overhung by large 
jutting rocks which menace jou with destruction. 
From the head of the High Falls to the upper end of 
the raceway above the Cascades, the way is easy when 
the stream is low, but from thence upwardly it is diffi- 
cult and dangerous. 

f* While you are passing along the narrow and sinu- 
ous paths leading by the projections, and by the brinka 
of headlong precipices, you tremble with reverential 
awe when you consider that one false step might pre- 
cipitate you into the resistless torrent below, and in an 
instant consign you to a watery grave. You see what a 
feeble creature man is, and are forcibly impressed with 
ideas of the wisdom and power of that mighty Being^ 
who commanded the earth to emerge from the deep and 
the Avaters to flow. 

" Along the bottom and lower parts of the ravine, 
numerous organic remains are found enveloped in the 
rocks which are easily divisible. The remains lie flat 
in or between the laminae, their contours and compo- 
nent parts usually being little distorted from their ori- 
ginal shape and dimensions. Sometimes there is de- 
fect, occasioned in the transition from the animal to 
the stony or fossil state ; but, in most instances, all the 



«T\GE ROUTE — NKW IIARTFOEl). 215 

parts aro bo completely defined, that not only the or- 
der, but the genera and species may be recognized. 
These remains aro easily separated from the layers in 
which they are enclosed. Their exteriors are common- 
ly glossy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of a dark col- 
or, being transformed into stone, and constituting inte- 
gral parts of the rocks which envelope them. From a 
careful examination of certain of these remains, and 
their positions, we are led to believe that their proto- 
types lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks in 
which they are entombed are of posterior formation." 

Accommodations for visitants are furnished at Sher- 
man's, who keeps the only house at the falls for that 
purpose. Ladies who resort thither, should be furn- 
ished with calf skin shoes or bootees. They not only 
ov/e it to their health to be thus provided, but the best 
pair of cloth shoes will be ruined by a single excursion 
over these rocks. 

Returning to Utica, the traveller, in pursuing a jour- 
ney to the west by stage, first reaches the pleasant 
village of 

New-Hartford, 4 miles from Utica, containing 
about 120 dwellings and stores, three churches, be- 
sides a number of mills and manufactories, located on 
the Sadaquada creek. The land between Utica and 
New-Hartford is level and of an excellent quality, and 
resembles, with its neat and regular enclosures, an ex- 
tensive and highly cultivated garden, There.^rc in the 
vicinity many country residences, constructed and im- 
proved with much taste and elegance. 

One mile from New-Hartford, at Clute's tavern, a 

tolerably good view of Hamilton College, 3 or 4 miles 
t2 



216 STAGE ROUTE ONEIDA CASTLE. 

distant at the S. W. is obtained ; but on ascending a 
more elevated position one mile farther, the prospect 
of the college and several adjoining buildings, is very 
distinct and beautiful. 

Manchester is 5 miles from NeMr-Hartford ; and 
the country between the two villages exhibits some of 
the most highly cultivated and delightful farms in the 
state. 

Vernon, S miles from Manchester, is a flourishing 
town of some magnitude. It contains two churches, a 
number of mills and a glass factory. 

Oneida Castle, 5 miles from Vernon, is situated 
on the Oneida creek, within the Oneida Reservation. 
Here is a considerable settlement, possessed by the 
Oneida and Tuscarora Indians. They still retain the 
customs and dress peculiar to their tribes. In the sum- 
mer they are employed principally in cultivationn ; in 
the fall it is their practice to repair in numbers to the 
hunting grounds in the north part of the state, from 
whence they return with their booty in the latter part 
of winter. This tribe entered the service of the state, 
as volunteers, during the last war. 

The first object which generally attracts the notice 
of the traveller in passi4ig their huts, is the appearance 
of several half naked children, swarming forth in quest 
of the daily contributions which are made them by 
tourists. It is astonishing to witness their speed, and 
the ease with which they frequently continue parallel 
with the stage for half a mile, until satisfied that no 
more donations are to be obtained. It would doubt- 
less be better for these children that this system of 
beggary should not be tolerated ; but the novelty of 



STAGE ROUTE CHITTENINGO. 017 

the spectacle induces many individuals to countenance 
it, who would, upon sound principle, consider it objec- 
tionable. 

The lands in this reservation are but indifferently 
cultivated, and assume a miserable aspect in compar- 
ison with the rich and highly improved farms on either 
side. In passing over an elevated tract, hoM'ever, this 
disparagement is in a measure lost in the extensive 
prospect which is aflbrded at the north. A chain of lof- 
ty mountains is seen skirting the horizon as far as the 
eye can extend ; between which and the tract in ques- 
tion, are seen immense and apparently impenetrable 
forests. The prospect is sublime ; and will amply re- 
pay the traveller in stopping a short time to enjoy this 
rich and extensive scenery. 

Lenox, a small village, is 3 miles from Oneida Castle. 
One mile farther, the flourishing and newly erected vil- 
lage of Canestota is seen about half a mile north of 
the turnpike on an extensive plain below, with the Erie 
canal passing through it. 

Quality Hill, a neat little village on a pleasant em- 
inence, is 3 miles from Lenox ; and five miles farther is 
the village of 

Chitteningo, situated on a creek of that name, and 
from which a feeder 1 1-2 mile long, is constructed to 
the canal. The village is bounded by very lofty hills, 
and cannot be considered a happy location, except for 
manufacturing purposes. An extensive seminary call- 
ed the "Polytechny," has been established here by 
Doctor Yates, formerly a professor at Union College. 
Under the direction of one so distinguished for benev- 
olence and classical attainments, it has obtained much 



21S !?TAGE ROUTE — MANLIU.^. 

celebrity, and may be justly ranked among the beet 
institutions of the kind in the state. Gypsum is here 
found in great quantities ; also numerous petrifactions, 
specimens of which are in most of the mineralogical 
cabinets in the Union. These petrifactions are near 
the village at the foot of a hill, and consist of the trunk 
of a tree and scattered fragments, the woody structure 
of wliich, in most cases, is remarkably perfect, and 
bearing a strong resemblance to the original. Various 
springs of water issue from the sides of the hill, which 
exhibits numerous incrustations (calcareous tufa) along 
its slope and in the vale below. To the properties of 
these waters way be attributed the formation of these 
incrustations and petrifactions. 

At Chitteningo, the road diverges, forming two prom- 
inent routes to Auburn ; one passing through the vil- 
lages of Manlius, Onondaga Hollow, Onondaga 
Hill, Marcellus and Skaneateles, and the other 
passing through the village of STRACirsE, noticed in the 
canal route. The first mentioned route, though over 
a less even country, is the one generally prefen'cd by 
travellers, as aflbrding a more rich and diversified scene- 
ry of highly cultivated farms and flourishing villageSr 
Four miles from Chitteningo, on the road to Manlius, 
is an eminence from which a beautiful prospect is ob- 
tained of a part of Oneida Lake and a wide extent of 
hilly country beyond, Onondaga Lake, and the vil- 
lage of Onondaga Hill, 15 miles distant. Four milc9 
farther is the flourishing village of 

Manlius, situated on the cast side of Limestone 
creek, containing about 100 houses, 4 churches, 2 cot- 
ton factories, mills, &c. It is in contemplation to make a 



STAGE ROUT^ — MARCELLUS. 219 

lateral cut of 2 miles which shall connect this creek 
with the western canal. Thers sre in tho vicinity 2 
considerable falls, tae principal of which is 100 feet in 
height. 

Jamesyille is 6 miles from Manlius. Green Pond, 
in this vicinity, is worthy of notice. The water is 200 
feet deep, and of a deep green color, emitting a strong 
smell of sulphur. The surface of the pond is between 
100 and 200 feet below the level of its shores, which 
are precipitous and rocky. Four miles farther is th© 
village of 

Onondaga Hollow, extending 1 mile across a deep 
but beautiful valley, through which the Onondaga creek 
passes. The village contains an academy, church, &c. ; 
but its business has decHned since the opening of 
the canal, and the springing up of the village of Sy- 
racuse, which is 4 miles distant. Three miles south 
of Onondaga Hollow is a considerable settlement of 
Onondaga Indians, where once was held the grand 
councils of the Six Nations. 

Onondaga Hill, 2 miles farther, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on very high ground, with a commanding view of 
the country to the north and east for a considerable dis- 
tance, embracing within the prospect the Onondaga 
Lake and the villages of Syracuse, Salina and Liver- 
pool. 

Marcellus, 8 miles from Onondaga Hill, is a neat 
village of 60 or 70 houses, situated in the valley of the 
Otisco creek. Two miles north are falls of some 60 or 
70 feet affording facilities for a variety of manufactories ; 
near which, water lime or cement is found in inexhaust- 
ible quantities. There is also lying on the bank of the 



'i^O 



STAGE HOITE — SKANEATELESr 



creek at this place a petrified tree of large dimen- 
sions, partly covered with limestone. 

Skaneateles, 6 miles from MarcelluPj is eituated at 
the foot of the Skaneateles Lake, and is a beautiful 
thri\ing village, containing about 1000 inhabitants, 2 
churches and a flourishing academy, a variety of man- 
ufactories, mills and many elegant private dwellings. 
It enjoys a commanding \iew of the lake for 6 or 8 
miles above and of the surrounding country, which ri- 
ses in a gentle aclivity from the water 100 feet or more 
in the course of a mile, presenting a range of neat white 
farm houses on the summit, and a slope of highly cul- 
tivated coimtry towards the lake on each side. The 
lake, which is 16 miles long and from half a mile to 
two miles in width, abounds with fine trout and other 
fish. The water is deep and remarkably pure, with a 
gravelly bottom and bold shores. The prospect from 
the lake is highly interesting, particularly towards its 
head, where the country rises abruptly several hundred 
feet, presenting a miniature picture of mountain scene- 
ry. Under these bluffs on the east side and on a level 
with the water are found large quantites of petrifactions, 
the cornu ammonite, imbeded in a stratum of slate. 
Three miles north of the village the Skaneateles creek 
falls over a bed of rocks about 70 feet in a short dis- 
tance ; but, in low water, the whole is lost or sinks 
among the rocks and only a part of it again appears at 
a distance of half a mile below, presenting the novel 
spectacle of a river much larger at its fountain than at 
its mouth. Seven miles from Skaneateles stands the 
flourishing village of 



H 



STAGE ROUTE — AUBUKN. 221 

Auburn. It is situated on tho Owasco creek, two 
miles below its outlet from tho lake of the same name, 
24 miles from Onondaga, and 170 from Albany. This 
village owes much of its importance to tho numeixMis 
mills and manufactories for which its location is ex- 
tremely eligible. It contains about 450 houses and 
4000 inhabitants. Amongst other public buildings 
there are a court house and gaol, and a prison erect- 
ed for convicts at the expense of the state. There 
has also been established a theological seminary, 
which is patronized exclusively by the Presbyterian de- 
nomination, and is at present the only one of the kind 
in the state. Many circumstances combine to render 
this place an agreeable residence to tho man of taste or 
business. The village is handsomely built, and in- 
creases annually in population and business. It is sit- 
uated 7 miles from Weed's Port, on the canal, to 
which place stages run daily, for the accommodation 
of passengers M'ishing to take packet boats for the west 
or east — fare 50 cents. A lateral canal or rail road 
from Auburn to Weed's Port is in contemplation, and 
will probably, ere long, go into effect. 

The principal public houses are the Western Ex- 
change and Bank Coflec House. 

The State Prison, at Auburn, is considered one of 
the best in the Union. It was commenced in 1816, 
and is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, 
enclosed by a wall 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet 
on each side. The front of the prison, including the 
keeper's dwelling, is about 300 feet, and the two wings 
extending west, are 240 feet each. The north wing 
contains the solitary cells and hospital, and the south 



222 STAGE ROUTE — AUBURN. 

wing 18 divided principally into two large rooms. Be- 
tween the two wings is a grass plat with gravel walks ; 
to the west of which is the interior yard, covered with 
gravel, containing reservoirs of water, and surrounded 
with workshops. These shops, besides the paint shop, 
form a continued range of 900 feet ; and are well 
lighted by windows in the sides and from the roof. 
They are built of brick, and are well secured against 
fire. The outer walls, against which the shops are 
built, are 35 feet high on the inside, and the other walls 
about 20. They arc four feet thick, and the walls of 
the prison 3 feet. The expense of the whole, without 
including the labor of convicts employed, was above 
$300,000. The prison being erected on the bank of 
the Owasco, water power is applied in many cases, to 
great advantage, in propelling machinery. 

The most interesting period for witnessing the pris- 
oners is early in the morning, from the time they are 
brought forth to labor till after breakfast. The spec- 
tator will then have an opportunity of seeing some of 
the prominent features of the order, regularity and 
system with which every thing is conducted. He will 
admire the precision with which the rules are execu- 
ted, without the least confusion, noise, or even com- 
mand. " The convicts silently marching to and from 
their rest, meals and labor, at precise times, moving in 
separate corps, in single file, with a slow lock step, 
erect posture, keeping exact time, with their faces in- 
clined towards their keepers, (that they may detect 
conversation, of which none is ever permitted,) all give 
to the spectator somewhat similar feeUngs to those ex- 
cited by a military funeral j and to the convicts, im- 



STAGE ROUTE — SENECA FALLS. 3^ 

presaions not entirely dissimilar to those of culprits 
when marching to the gallows. The same eilence^ eo- 
Icnmity and order, in a good degree, pervades every 
business and department." 

In addition to divine service in the chapel of the pris- 
on every Sabbath, a Sunday school has been establish- 
ed, superintended by the students of the theological 
seminary, which has been attended with very beneficial 
effects. 

So admirable has been the discipline of this prison 
that a large proportion of the convicts discharged have 
become honest, industrious men, and none are known 
to have become corrupted or made worse. In 1829, 
the number confined was about 570, and their earnings 
considerably exceeded the expenses of the prison. 

Caydga, 8 miles west of Auburn, is a small village ; 
but affords a beautiful prospect of the Cayuga Lake, 
and the bridg-c extending across, which is 1 mile and 
S rods long, and situate within 2 miles of the outlet. 
This lake is 38 miles in length, and is generally from 
1 to 2 miles in breadth. The water is shallow, but 
of sufficient depth for a good sized steam-boat, which 
plies daily between the bridge and Ithica, a beautiful 
and thriving village, at the head of the lake, 36 miles 
distant. 

The Seneca Falls, 3 miles west of Cayuga, afford 
important manufacturing facilities. A canal, 20 miles 
long, has been constructed from this place to the Erie 
canal at Montezuma ; which, connected with a branch 
of the Seneca river, gives an uninterrupted water com- 
munication from Geneva to the lakes and the ocean. 
Four miles farther, is the handsome village of 



t24 STAGE ROUTfi GENEVA. 

Waterloo, a half shrre towa in Seneta county. It 
containg nearly 200 houacs, a court-house, jail, and 2 
printing ofiiceg. The village is principally situate on 
the northern bank of the Seneca outlet ; which here 
propels several mills. The commencement of this vil- 
lage was in 1S16 ; and its growth, which has been rap- 
id, is far from complete. Constant additions of build- 
ings and mills are making; and it will doubtless, ere 
long, be ranked among the important villages of the 
west. The principal public house at this place is the 
Western Hotel. From Waterloo to 

Geneva, 7 miles distant, the route is delightful, cm- 
bracing (a part of the way) a charming ride around the 
north end of the Seneca Lake, which is here about 2 
miles wide. The village is one of the most elegant in 
the state ; and, with its beautiful scenery, cannot fail 
of calling forth the admiration of every visitant. It is 
situate on the western margin of the lake, the bank of 
which being lofty, affords an enchanting view of one of 
the purest sheets of water in America. There are al- 
ready in this place about 450 buildings, many of which 
are very handsome ; and the number is constantly in- 
creasing. Among the public buildings are a college, 
an academy, 4 churches and a bank. The college is 
located on an eminence south of the village, on the 
margin of the lake; and though in its infancy, is 
handsomely patronized. It is in the vicinity of several 
country seats, enjoying an unusual richness of pros- 
pect, with an almost constant breeze from the lake ; 
which is about 35 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles 
wide. It abounds with salmon trout and other fish, 
and is never closed with ice. A steam-boat runs daily 



STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA, 225 

from Geneva to iefrersonvilio, at the head of the lake, 
leaving the former place at 7 A. M., and returning at 
evening.* The Genesee turnpike leads through Gene- 



* A passage on the lake is peculiarly delightful and 
interesting. Leaving Geneva with its neat stores, and 
elegant dwellings, its luxuriant hanging gardens, and 
the glittering spires of its churches and college, the eye 
. takes in a southern water view not surpassed in any 
part of this world of inland seas. The first village of 
any note on the eastern shore is Ovid, 18 miles from 
Geneva. The lofty eminence on which it stands, and 
the rich and highly cultivated farms in its vicinity, ren- 
der it a most conspicuous and interesting object. Di- 
rectly opposite to Ovid is Dresden, one of the most 
thriving villages in Yates county. It is situated on the 
outlet of Crooked Lake, and extends nearly a mile back 
of the shore. Immediately south of Dresden, is the 
farm of the late celebrated Jemima Wilkinson, an en- 
thusiast, who pretended that she was the Saviour of 
mankind. Until her death, which took place some 
years since, she had several followers ; and this farm, 
which is very beautiful, has passed by will into the 
hands of one of them. Four miles south of Dresden is 
Long Point, remarkable for a tree at its extremity, 
which, by a little aid from the imagination puts on the 
semblance of an elephant. Six miles south of Long 
Point is Rapelyca's ferry, near which is still standing 
the frame wdiich Jemima constructed to try the faith 
of her followers. Having approached within a few 
hundred yards of the lake shore, she alighted from an 
elegant carriage, and the road being strewed by her 
followers with white handkerchiefs, she walked to the 
platform, and having announced her intention of walk- 
ing across the lake on the water, she stepped ankle deep 
into the clear element, when suddenly paiising, she ad- 
dressed the multitude, inquiring whether or not they 
had faith that she could pass over, for if otherwise, she 



^*36 STAGE UOUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 

va, and the Erie oanal passes about 12 miles to the 
north of it ; with which there is a water commimica- 
tion, by means of the outlet of the Seneca lake and a 
lateral canal. This communication has already proved 
of great importance to the place, and has rendered its 
trade but little inferior to the most favored villages of 
the west. The principal public houses in the place are 
St. John's and Hemingway's ; both of which arc high- 
ly creditable to the proprietors. 

Canandaigua is 15 miles from Geneva. This vil- 
lage is situated near the outlet of the lake from which 
it takes its name, on a gentle ascent commanding a 
fine view of the lake at the distance of half a mile. 
The principal street extends 2 miles in length, and is 



could not ; and on receiving an afiirmative answer, re- 
turned to her carriage, declaring that as they believed 
in her power, it was unnecessary to display it. Six 
miles and a half south of Rapelyea's ferry, is Starkie's 
Point, Avhcre the shore is so bold that the steam-boat 
passes within 10 feet of the extremity of the Point, 
Four miles further on the west shore is the Big Stream 
Point, at which there is a mill seat with a fall of 136 
feet. The land puts on a wilder aspect as the tourist 
approaches the head of the lake, and the eminences arc 
more beetling and precipitous. The eastern shore also 
partakes more of the mountainous character, though 
cidtivated far up the summit lands, and is here and 
there marked by ravines, tlirough one of which " Hec- 
tor Falls" tumble from a height of one hundred anrl 
fifty feet, and carry several valuable mills. These fall;- 
ave distant three miles uom Iho village of Jcfl^^rson-villf, 
at the head of the lake, which has len nlly sprung into 
existonce, and which will soon btcome an important 
inland town. 



BURNING SPRINGS. 227 

hajidsomdy decorated with trees, thron.ijh v,-'r»k'.h ap- 
pear the delicately painted dwellings, onitMnented with 
Venitian blinds. In an open square, in the centre of 
the village, is the court house and clerk's ofRce of the 
county. The Episcopal church, situate on the main 
street, is one of the most elegantly constructed build- 
ings in the state. In the vicinity are a number of de- 
lightful villas, surrounded with smiling gardens and 
orchards of various kinds of fruit, which, with the view 
of the lake stretching far to the south, beautifully set 
off the scene of enchantment. In richness and variety 
of natural scenery, and the taste and elegance of its 
edifices, few villages can compare with Canandaigua. 
In point of trade and wealth, too, it is not exceeded by 
many villages in the state. A steam mill is here in op- 
eration, which annually furnishes a very large supply 
of flour. On the lake, which is 14 miles long, and 
from one to two in breadth, a steam-boat performs a 
daily trip, which is rendered unusually interesting from 
the varied scenery which is presented. The village is 
situated 20S miles from Albany ; from Utica, 1 1 1 ; from 
Buffalo, 89 ; from Niagara Falls, 109. Principal hou- 
ses. Blossom's Hotel (one of the best in the western 
district) and Pitt's Eagle Tavern. 

Burning Springs. From 8 to 10 miles, in a south- 
westerly direction from Canandaigua, are found several 
springs, charged with infiamable gas. The following 
description of them is taken from a Canandaigua jour- 
nal : 

" These springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and 
Canandaigua. 

u2 



228 BURNING .-PRINGfS. 

The formor oro situated in a ravine *»n the west side 
of Bristol ilollow, about half a mile from the North 
Presbyterian meeting house. The ravine is formed in 
clay slate, and a small brook runs throii.^h it. The gas 
rises through fissures of the slate, from both the mar- 
gin and the bed of the brook. Where it rises through 
the water, it is formed into bubbles, and flashes only 
when the flame is applied ; but where it rises directly 
from the rock, it burns with a steady and beautiful 
flame, which continues until extinguished by storms, or 
by design. 

• The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to 
two miles southwesterly from the village of Rushville, 
along a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bot- 
tom of the valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at 
an elevation of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it. 

The latter have been discovered within a few years, 
in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- 
merous. Their places are known by little hillocks of a 
few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of 
a dark bituminous mould, uhich seems principally to 
have been deposited by the ga'^, and through which it 
finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. 
These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn 
with a steady flame. In winter they form openings 
through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the nov- 
el and interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively 
flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold 
weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these 
currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the wa- 
ter contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height 
of two or three feet, the gas issuing from Iheir fops; 



BUHJfING SPRINGS. 2^9 

(110 wholo when lighted )n a stiil evening picseuUu^ 
an appearance even moro bcautifuUthan the former. 

Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that 
it consistsprincipally of a mixture of the hglit and heavy 
rarburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly 
1 he preponderance J and that it contains a small pro- 
'.^ortion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a 
iiltleoily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns 
^'. ith a lambent, yellowish flame, scarcely inclining to 
red, with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. 
It has the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke, 
but deposits, while burning, a small quantity of bitu- 
minous lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, 
through which the gas rises, are totally destitute of 
vegetation. Whether the gas is directly deleterious to 
vegetable life, or indirectly, by interrupting the contact 
of the air of the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant 
can sustain life within the circle of its influence. 

It is well known that this gas is found abundantly in 
coal mines ; and being accidentally set on fire, (mixed 
as it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) 
has many times caused terrible and destructive explo- 
sions. The writer cannot learn that it has ever been 
known to be generated in the earth, except in the pres- 
rnce of coal ; and hence the inference is strong that it 
proceeds from coal." 

From Canandaigua stages may be taken for Roches- 
ter, (sec " Canal Route,") distant 27 miles in a north- 
westerly direction, and the route continued from thence 
to tiie Falls by stage or canal ; but if a visit to Montre- 
al, by the way of Lake Ontario, is not contemplated, it 
1!? generally deemed a better course to proceed directly 



530 STAGE ROUTE — AVON SPRING. 

lo Buffalo and the Falls, and return by the way of Ro- 
chester. In pursuing the usual route from Canandai- 
gua to Buffalo, 

East Bloomfield is reached in travelling 9 miles, 
and West Bloomfield in going 5 miles farther. They 
are considered among the richest agricultural town- 
ships in the state ; presenting a succession of beauti- 
ful and highly cultivated farms. The fruit raised on 
these lands, particularly apples and peaches, is not ex- 
celled in any section of the country. 

Lima is 4 miles from West Bloomfield, and is a con- 
tinuation of the same rich and fertile soil, divided into 
highly improved and productive farms. 

East Avon is 5, and Avon Post Office 7 miles 
from Lima. The Genesee river passes through the 
town of Avon, and is navigable for boats to the Erie 
canal at Rochester, 20 miles distant, with which it is 
connected by a feeder. The alluvial flats are very ex- 
tensive and fertile ; and the uplands are well watered 
by small streams and springs. A remarkable bulbous 
root grows on the Genesee flats in this town. It is 
from 3 to 4 feet in length, from 6 to 8 inches in diame- 
ter, and assumes the external appearance of a log in 
the earth. A small creeping vine, like that of the 
strawberry, proceeds from the root ; and its natural 
vegetable productions are almost infinitely various. 

The Avon Spring is becoming a place of considera- 
ble resort for invalids. Its waters, which are strongly 
impregnated with sulphur and alum, are found benefi- 
cial in various diseases. The tourist will generally find 
himself amply compensated by ?j ending a day at this 
place. 



STAGE ROUTE LE UOY. 231 

Caledonia, 3 milce from Avon Post OlTicc, is more 
particularly celebrated as the location of a large Springy 
tiian for any thing else. The stage usually stops at 
the village long enough to enable passengers to visit 
this natural curiosity, which is situate a few rods north 
of the principal street. Witliin a small area, sufficient 
water rises to propel a mill, (of which there are several 
on the stream below,) at all seasons of the year. The 
water is pure and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. 
A stage runs daily from this place to Rochester, which 
is '20 miles distant. A part of the route lies on the 
'-ank of the Genesee river, and, most of the way, 
through an uncultivated country. Settlements and 
improvements, however, are rapidly increasing ; and 
the wildernesg will ere long give place to the arts of 
husbandry. 

Pursuing the direct route from Caledonia to Buffalo, 
ho next place of importance is the pleasant and thri- 
ving village of 

Leroy, which is 6 miles west of Caledonia, an 17 
jiiles south of the Erie Canal. Allen's creek, which 
passes through the village, affords important mill privi- 
leges, and contributes much to the value and business 
of the place. The number of buildings already erect- 
ed is between 2 and 300, principally located on one 
street ; among which are several very handsome pri- 
vate dwellings. Numerous petrifactions have been 
found in the bed of the creek, about 200 yards north of 
the village bridge ; among which are petrified turtles,, 
weighing from 10 to 300 pounds. They are composed 
principally of dark coloured bituminous limestone, 
which 13 easily split, and often discovers crystaline 



^3^ STAGE ROUTE — BATAVIA. 

veins, together with yellow clay or ochre. The mine- 
ralogist will find much here to gratify his taste and re- 
ward his researches. The delightful appearance of the 
village, also, with its charming location on an emi- 
nence, will often induce the traveller to make it a tem- 
porary resting place from the fatigues of a journey. 

Batavia is 10 miles from Le Roy. It is the capital 
of Genesee county ; and assumes more the appearance 
of one of the early settled villages in New-England, 
than the more flourishing villages of the west. It is 
situated on the north side of the Tonewanta creek, on 
an extensive plain, and has several handsome and even 
elegant private mansions. Besides the court house 
and jail, it contains a bank, the Holland Company land 
office, and a few other public buildings. 

This village has become somewhat celebrated as the 
theatre of events connected with the masonic fraterni- 
ty. It was the residence of the noted William Morgan, 
previous to his abduction ; and from one of its print- 
ing offices was first issued what has been denominated 
the secrets of masonry. The excitement produced for 
a time in the village, and for many miles around, was 
of a nature the most rancorous and intolerant, and un- 
worthy the character of an enlightened people. Illibe- 
ral feehngs, however, have, in a measure, given place 
to reason ; and there is a prevailing disposition to es- 
tablish peace and good order. 

After leaving Batavia for Buffalo, the country soon 
assumes a less populous appearance ; and the travel- 
ling is rendered unpleasant from the extensive cause- 
ways which intervene, consisting of logs placed trana- 
rersclv in the road. This has been done to avoid the 



ERIE CANAL. 233 

(loop mud on the low gronncls, which aro subject to 
frequent inundations in the spring and fall. The state 
of these roads has induced many to prefer t!ie ridge 
road or alhxvial way from Rochester to Levviston, 
(which is noticed in a subsequent part of this vohnnc.) 
But, in visiting Buffalo as well as the Falls, the latter 
route is more circuitous, and can be taken with greater 
convenience in returning. 

The intervening places between Batavia and Buffa- 
lo, are Pembroke, 14 miles — Clarence 8 — Williamsville 
8 — from which to Buffalo is 10 miles. [For a descrip- 
tion of the latter place, see " Canal Route."] 

ERIE CANAL. 

This magnificent structure was commenced under 
the patronage of the state, on the 4th of July, 1817, 
and was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the 
Erie and Hudson, at an expense of less than seven mil- 
lions of dollars, a sum trivial in comparison with the 
immense advantage derived to the state from such 
communication. The canal, beginning at Albany on 
the Hudson, passes up the west bank of that river 
nearly to the mouth of the Mohawk ; thence along the 
bank of the Mohawk, to Schenectady, crossing the riv- 
er twice by 2 aqueducts. From Schenectady it follows 
the south bank of the Mohawk until it reaches Rome. 
In some places it encroaches so near as to require em- 
bankments made up from the river to support it. An 
embankment of this description at Amsterdam village, 
is 5 or 6 miles in extent. What is called the long level, 
being a distance of 69 1-2 miles without an interven- 
ing lock, commences in the town of Frankfort, about S 



1 



'234 E&IE CANAL. 



miiee east of Utica, and terminates 3-4 of a mile cast 
from Syracuse ; from thence the route proceeds 85 
miles to Montezuma, situated on the east border of the 
Cayuga marshes, 3 miles in extent, over which to the 
great embankment, 72 feet in height and near 2 miles 
in length, is a distance of 52 miles ; thence 8 1-2 miles 
to the commencement of the Genesee level, extending 
westward to Lockport, nearly parallel with the ridge 
road, 65 miles. Seven miles from thence to Pendleton 
village the canal enters Tonnewanta creek, which it 
follows 12 miles, and thence following the east side of 
the Niagara river, communicates with Lake Erie at 
Buffalo. The whole line of the canal from Albany to 
Buffalo is 363 miles in length. It is 40 feet wide at the 
top and 28 feet wide at the bottom. The water flows 
at the depth of 4 feet in a moderate descent of half an 
inch in a mile. The tow path is elevated about 4 feet 
from the surface of the water, and is lOfeet wide. The 
whole length of the canal includes 83 locks and 18 
aqueducts of various extent. The locks are construct- 
ed in the most durable manner of stone laid in water 
lime, and are 90 feet in length, and 15 feet in width. 
The whole rise and fall of lockage is 688 feet ; and the 
height of Lake Erie above the Hudson 568 feet. The 
principal aqueducts are, one crossing the Genesee river 
Ja-t Rochester, 804 feet in length ; one crossing the Mo- 
hawk at Little Falls, supported by 3 arches, the centre 
of 70 feet, and those on each side of 50 feet chord ; and 
two crossing tlie Mohawk river near Alexander's bridge, 
one of which is 748 feet and the other 1188 feet in 
length. The whole workmanship evinces a degree of 
beauty and proportion consistent with the greatest 



KRIE CANAL. 235 

strength. In many places the sides of the canal arc 
either paved with small stone or covered with thick 
grass, designed to prevent the crumbling of the soil by 
the motion of the water. To the main canal are a 
number of side cuts or lateral canals : one opposite 
Troy, connecting with the Hudson ; one at Syracuse, 
a mile and a half in length, to Salina ; one from Syra- 
cuse, to Oswego, 38 miles in length; one at Orville ; 
one at Chitteningo ; one at Montezuma, extending to 
the Cayuga lake, 5 miles, and from thence to the Sen- 
eca lake at Geneva, a distance of 15 miles ; and one at 
Rochester of two miles in length, which serves the 
■double purpose of a navigable feeder, and a mean of 
communication for boats between the canal and the 
Genesee river. It is highly probable that these lateral 
cuts will increase in ratio with the enterprize of the nu- 
merous adjacent villages scattered along the line of the 
main canal. From these and various other improve- 
ments which public enterprize has already suggested, 
the state of New- York is destined to reap a full harvest 
of prosperity. If her national glory has already dawn- 
ed with so much lustre, what will be its tneridian splen- 
dor — when her magnificent improvements, uniting with 
her own the navigable waters of her sister states, shall 
serve as so many ligaments to bind the confederacy in 
the indissoluble bonds of friendship and interest. The 
debt contracted for the Champlain and Erie canals, 
amounted on the 1st of January, 1826, to $9,108,269, 
including $1,621,274, expended in the construction of 
feeders, lateral canals, dams, &.c. and in the payment 
of salaries of the commissioners and other officers en- 
gaged in the work. The revenue from the tolls of both 
v 



236 ERIE CANAL. 

canals, in lS-22, amounted to §64,071 ; in 1823, to 
^151,099; in 1824, to $289,320; in 1825, to $500,000; 
in 1826, to $675,190; in 1827, to $859,058; and in 
1S28, to $8Sa,000. On the 1st of Jan. 1830, the canal 
debt, including the expenses of constructing the Oswe- 
go and Cayuga and Seneca canals, and exclusive of the 
extinguishments which had been made, amounted to 
$7,706,013; and the tolls received for the preceding 
year, to the sum of $816,302,76 — the Oswego and Sen- 
eca canals not having furnished a revenue equal to the 
interest of their cost and the expense of their repairs. 
To the payment of the interest and principal of the ca- 
nal debt, is appropriated not only the tolls, but also the 
duties on salt and auctions, with other sources of in- 
come, which amounted, in 1829, to $376,77 — making 
the total receipts of that year, including tolls, $1,193,- 
979. 

CANAL PASSAGE. 
Of the sources of gratification to the tourist, during 
the canal passage, that of novelty is perhaps the great- 
est. To the man of pleasure, it will be considered, per- 
haps, too little diversified with incident to be repeated ; 
but to the man of business this objection will probably 
yield to the united considerations of the convenience 
and safety of this mode of conveyance. The passage 
boats are generally constructed 80 feet in length and 
14 feet in width, and draw from 1 to 2 feet of water. 
The cabin occupies the whole length of the deck, ex- 
cepting about 8 or 10 feet reserved at one end for the 
cook, and 4 or 6 feet at the other end for the pilot. 
The intermediate space is occupied as a cabin, con- 
structed from the deck into a room 8 feet in height, 



CANAL ROUTE. 



a37 



with single births on each side, and calculated to ac- 
commodate 30 persons. The boats are drawn by three 
horses, one before the other, and move day and night, 
at the rate of 4 miles an hour. Relays are furnished 
every 8 or 10 miles. Boats with commodities proceed 
at the rate of 55 miles in 24 hours ; and boats with pas« 
sengers (including delays) about 35 miles in the same 
time. 

CANAL ROUTE. 
The several places and distances, as they occur on 
tlie canal route from Albany to Buffalo are as follows : 

DISTANCE FROM 
o 

« rf t3 r; jrt 

o 5 « cS 03 

eg S^ '-3 o 3 

'p^ < :d fi ca 

Albany, 110 270 363 

Troy, 7 7 103 263 356 

Junction, 2 9 101 261 354 

Schenectady, 21 30 80 240 333 

Amsterdam, 16 46 64 224 317 

Schoharie Creek, 7 53 57 217 310 

Caughnawaga, 4 57 53 213 306 

Spraker's Basin 9 66 44 204 297 

Canajoharie, 3 69 41 201 294 

Bowman's Creek, 3 72 38 198 291 

Little Falls, 16 88 22 182 275 

Herkimer, 7 95 15 175 268 

Frankfort, 5 100 10 170 263 

Utica, 10 110 160 253 

Whitesboro', 4 114 4 156 249 

Oriskany, 3 117 7 153 246 

Rome, 8 125 15 145 238 

Smith's, 7 132 22 138 231 

Loomis' 6 138 28 132 225 

Oneida Creek, 3 141 31 129 222 



238 CANAL JROUTE. 

DISTANCE FROM 
d 

e _; O **< 

"S. -< P tf 

Canistota, 5 146 36 124 217 

New Boston, 4 150 40 120 213 

Chitteningo, 4 154 44 116 209 

Manlius, 8 162 52 108 201 

Orville, 3 165 55 105 198 

Syracuse, 6 171 61 99 192 

Geddes, 2 173 63 97 190 

Nine-Mile Creek, 6 179 69 91 184 

Canton 6 185 75 85 178 

Jordan, 6 191 81 79 172 

Weed's Basin, 6 197 87 73 166 

Port Bryon, 3 200 90 70 163 

Montezuma, (Lakeport,) . . 6 206 96 64 157 

Clyde, 11 217 107 53 146 

Lyons, 9 226 116 44 137 

Newark, 7 233 123 37 130 

Palmyra, 8 241 131 29 122 

Fullom's Basin, 13 254 144 16 109 

Pittsford, 6 260 150 10 103 

Rochester, 10 270 160 93 

Ogden, 12 282 172 12 81 

Adams' Basin, 3 285 175 15 78 

Brockport, 5 290 180 20 73 

Holley, 5 295 185 25 68 

Newport, 10 305 195 35 58 

Portville, 4 309 199 39 54 

Oak Orchard, 5 314 204 44 49 

Middleport, 7 321 211 53 42 1 

Lockport, 12 333 223 63 30: 

Pendleton, 7 340 230 70 23 ! 

Tonawanda, 12 352 242 82 Hi 

Black Rock, 8 360 250 90 3 

Buffalo, 3 303 253 93 O: 



SCHENECTADY. 239 

SCHENECTADY, 
Is 15 miles from Albany, and 22 from Saratoga 
Springs ; and can be reached twice a day by stage from 
either of those places.* The city is situated on the 
Mohawk, a broad and beautiful river, which forms its 
northern boundary. It was burnt by the Indians in 
1690, and suffered a considerable conflagration in 1819, 
since which event the antique appearance of the city 
has been much improved by the introduction of mod- 
ern architecture. The principal Hotel is kept by Mr. 
Davis, (formerly Given's,) in the south-east part of the 
city and within a few rods of the Erie canal. The 
building is constructed of brick, 50 feet front, and with 
its wing, 2 stories high, exclusive of the basement sto- 
ry, extends back 150 feet. The main building is 3 sto- 
ries in height, besides an attic story, containing an 
apartment for a billiard room. From this elevated spot 
a view may be had of the city and its environs, of the 
Mohawk and of the canal for some distance, and of 
the rich and variegated landscape which spreads on 
the south and west of the city. The Hotel can accom- 
modate 130 guests. It is furnished throughout in a 
very superior style, and guests receive every attention 
and accommodation that can contribute to their conve- 
nience and amusement. Union College is built on 
an eminence, which overlooks the city and the Mo- 
hawk for a number of miles. The college consists at 
present of two brick edifices, but the plan includes a 



* Owing to the numerous locks between Albany and 
Schenectady, no packet boats run between the two 
cities. v2 



240 CAWAL ROUTE SCOHARIB CHEEK. 

chapel and otlier buildings hereafter to be erected, in 
the rear, and between those already constructed. At 
this institution about 200 students are educated annu- 
ally. The expense per annum is \<^130. In numbers and 
respectability Union College may be ranked among the 
most favored seminaries in our country. A handsome 
bridge has been constructed across the Mohawk, at 
the west end of this city. The bridge is 9&7 feet in 
length, and is passed by the stage on its route to Utica. 
Daily post coaches, connected with the western line 
of stages, leave Schenectady every morning and arrive 
at Utica the same day. By the present arrangement, 
boats leave Schenectady every morning and evening, 
reaching Utica in 24 hours, and Buffalo in 4 days. An 
evening boat is considered preferable, as it passes Little 
Falls, the most interesting part of the canal between 
Schenectady and Utica, by day-light ; and gives an 
opportunity of remaining one night in Utica, from 
whence a canal boat or stage may be taken the next 
morning. The price of conveyance in the packet boats 
is 3 cents per mile, meals extra. 

Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is situa- 
ted on the Mohawk turnpike, near the river. It has 
a post office, a church, and about 50 dwellings and 
stores. A bridge crosses the Mohawk at this place. 
The canal with its embankments made up from the 
river for 5 or 6 miles in extent, is opposite the village, 
on the south side of the Mohawk. 

Schoharie Cuef.k, 7 miles. The ruins of Fort Hun- 
ter, at the mouth of this creek, are still visible. It was 
an important post during the early wars of this country. 



CANAL ROUTE MOHAWK CAPSTLE. 5 11 

A chapel built by Queen Anne for the Indians, is also 
to be seen near this place, called Queen Jlnne'^s Chapel. 
The canal crosses the creek, by means of a dam and 
guard lock. 
Caughnawaga, 4 miles. {See p. 201.) 
Anthoxt's Nose, 8 miles. This is a very abrupt 
and prominent hill on the south side of the canal, hav- 
ving on its top a cavern, which extends to a great 
depth. 
Cattajoharie, 5 miles. (Seep. 201.) 
Fort Plain, 4 miles. (See p. 201.) 
East Canada Creek, 4 miles. This creek enters 
the Mohawk on the north side ; near which, Capt. But- 
ler was killed by the Indians soon after his wanton des- 
tniction of the village of Cherry Valley. 

Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. The ruins of an old chap- 
el erected for the use of the Mohawk Indians are still 
visible at this place, and also some slight remains of 
their once formidable fortifications. 

Three miles farther, as the boat approaches Little 
Falls, the scenery becomes highly picturesque and sub- 
lime. On either side are lofty and apparently inacces- 
sible mountains, affording a narrow pass for the road, 
river and canal. Indeed, the latter, for a considerable 
distance, is formed by an excavation in the side of the 
mountain, having a wall of 20 or 30 feet to support its 
northern embankment. The river here, for two or 
three miles in extent, descends with much rapidity over 
a rocky and uneven bottom, and exhibits, in some in- 
stances, an appearance not unlike the rapids above the 
falls of the Niagara. 



242 CANAL ROUTE — ORISKANY. 

Little Falls, 5 miles from Mohawk Castle. {Set 
p. 202.) 

After leaving Little Falls, the canal enters a smooth 
and delightful level, including vv^hat are called the Ger- 
man Flats, passing near the village of Herkimer, 7 
miles from the Falls, (see p. 205;) from thence to 
Frankfort, 5 miles j and from thence to Utica, 10 
miles. 

{For a description of Utica and Trenton Falls, see page 
206 to 215.) 

Whitesborough, 4 miles north-west of Utica,' is a 
beautiful and wealthy village, located on a rich and fer- 
tile plain. The principal and most elegant street is a 
short distance from, and runs parallel with the canal ; 
from which, through branches of trees half enshroud- 
ing the village, may be seen several elegant country 
seats. It may be considered, indeed as better adapted 
for a country residence, than a place of business. At 
the eastern extremity of the village is shown the first 
franif'd house erected in the county of Oneida ; half a 
mile from which, the canal passes over the Sauquait 
creek. Within 11 miles of the canal, on this creek, 
there are 84 mills of various descriptions, including sev- 
eral factories, some of which cost rising of $120,000. 
The York mills, or cotton factories, half a mile south 
of the canal, are considered among the best in the state, 
and constitute of themselves, with the houses for labor- 
ers, a compact village. 

Oriskant, 3 miles from Whitesborough, is a flourish- 
ing village of 70 or 80 houses. It is situated on the 
Oriskany creek, which here enters the canal as a fee- 
der. 



CANAL ROUTE HOME. 243 

Rome, 8 miles. This is a half shire town of the coun- 
ty of Oneida, contains a court-house and jail, and is 
pleasantly situated on the north side of the old canal, 
connecting Wood creek with the Mohawk, and about 
half a mile north of the Erie canal. It contains between 
100 and 150 houses, principally located on one street, 
running east and west. The ruins of Fort StanwiXf 
near the village, between Wood creek and the Mohawk, 
are still visible. This fort was erected in 1758 by the 
British, was suffered to decay, and was afterwards re- 
built by the Americans during the revolution. 15 or 
1800 men, including Indians, were sent from Mont- 
real by Burgoyne, in 1777, to beseige the Fort. They 
were commanded by the Baron St. Leger. Gen. Her- 
kimer, commandant of the militia of Tryon county, 
(embracing the present counties of Montgomery and 
Herkimer,) was sent against them with about 800 men. 
On meeting a detachment of Leger's forces, the militia 
mostly fled on the first fire. A few, however, remain- 
ed and fought by the side of Gen. H. who was mortal- 
ly wounded in the road between Wliitestown and Rome. 
The Americans lost 160 killed and 240 wounded. The 
fort, which was commanded by Col. Gansevoort, was 
afterwards assaulted by Leger's army ; but they were 
driven off by a sortie, directed by Col. Willet, and their 
camp plundered. Subsequently, the fort was summon- 
ed to surrender ; but through a stratagem of Gen. Ar- 
nold, who sent two emissaries from the camp at Still- 
water, an Indian and a white man, to inform Leger of 
the approach of a powerful American army for the re- 
lief of the beseiged, he ordered a precipitate retreat to 
the Oneida lake, leaving all his baggage behind. 



1244 CANAL ROUTE — SYRACUSE. 

An arsenal belonging to the U. S. is situate about 
half a mile west of the village and 300 yards north of 
the canal. 

16 miles from Rome the canal crosses the Oneida 
Creek ; and 5 miles farther it passes through the new 
and pleasant village of Canistota, half a mile north of 
the western turnpike. New Boston is 4 miles farther ; 
from which to 

Chitteningo is 4 miles. A navigable feeder enters 
the canal at this place. It is taken from the Chitte- 
ningo creek at the village of that name, a mile and a 
half distant. {See p. 217.) From Chitteningo to Man- ^ 
lius {see p. 218) is 8 miles ; from thence to Orville 3 ;♦ 
and from thence 6 miles to 

Syracuse. The appearance of this village as you 
approach it, is very handsome. It is built on both sides 
of the canal, and the stores and warehouses are sub- 
stantial and lofty. On the left as you come up the ca- 
nal, is one of the most splendid Hotels in the state. It 
is of brick four or five stories high, and surrounded 
with piazzas. There are also nearly 400 dwellings and 
stores, and every thing has the appearance of a com- 
mercial bustling town. This thriving village owes its 
importance principally to the immense quantity of salt 
produced in its neighborhood, the whole adjacent coun- 
try being impregnated with it, and springs from which 
immense quantities are manufactured rising in vari- 



+At this place are inexhaustible beds of water lime, 
used for hydraulic cement ; large quantities of which 
are annually exported. 



SALINA. 245 

0U3 directions. A little west of Syracuse, a plain of 
300 acres is nearly covered with vats for the manufac- 
ture of salt by solar evaporation. The water is brought 
in logs from the great spring at Salina, one mile dis- 
tant, and supphes, with very little attention, the vari- 
ous ranges of vats. A hght roof is constructed to each 
vat, which can be shoved offer on at pleasure, to per- 
mit the rays of the sun to act upon the water, or to 
prevent the dampness of the atmosphere from commin- 
gling therewith. The salt is taken out of these vats 
twice or three times during the warm season, and re- 
moved to store houses ; from whence it is conveyed in 
barrels to the canal for transportation. 

Salina is one and a half mile north of Syracuse, and 
though not on the usually travelled route to the west, 
should be visited for the purpose of examining the prin- 
cipal spring, and the various salt estabhshments con- 
nected therewith. A packet constantly plies between 
the villages on a lateral canal, affording an easy and 
pleasant mode of conveyance. 

The spring at Salina was first discovered by the In- 
dians many years since, by being the resort of deer and 
other animals. The first white settlers were in the 
habit of boiling the water in small vessels for domestic 
purposes. Since then, the spring has been excavated 
to a very considerable depth, and affords the strongest 
saline water yet discovered in the world, 40 gallons 
yielding about a bushel of pure salt. The water is for- 
ced up to the top of an adjoining hill by a powerful hy- 
draulian driven by the suplus waters from the Oswego 
canal, which commences at this place. The salt wa- 



246 



SALINA. 



ter is in this way conveyed 85 feet above the canal to 
a large reservoir, into which it is discharged at the rate 
of 300 gallons per minute. It is hence carried to the 
different factories in Salina and Syracuse. Of these 
there are about 100 at Salina and 23 at Syracuse ; 
there are also 26 at Liverpool, about 6 miles north-west 
of Salina, and 25 at Geddesburgh, 2 miles west of Sy- 
racuse. The works and springs all belong to the state, 
to which imposts are payable to the amount of 63 cents 
per barrel of 5 bushels,* and every manufacturer pays 
two cents per bushel for the use of the water. The 
water is conveyed from the reservoir to the different 
manufactories and evaporating fields, by means of 
wooden pipes. The salt is manufactured generally by 
boiling and evaporation. There are, however, two es- 
tablishments in which it is made in large wooden vats 
by means of hot air passing through them in large me- 
talic pipes. The manufactories contain from 15 to 40 
potash kettles, under each of which a constant fire is 
kept up, so that the water may not cease to boil. The 
first deposit of the water is thrown away. The pure 
salt soon after makes its appearance, and is refined for 
the table by means of blood, milk, rosin, &c. The 
springs are considered as inexhaustible. In 1928, 
there were 1,160,838 bushels inspected ; and in 1829, 
1,291,820 bushels ; showing an increase of 130,932 
bushels. Of this, 745,741 bushels were inspected at 
Salina, 229,317 at Syracuse, 187,540 at Liverpool, and 
129,222 at Geddes. 



* These duties are applied by the constitution of the 
state towards the extinguishment of the canal debt. 



CANAL ROUTE WEEd's BASIN. 'Ml 

Salina is a flourishing village; but of less magni- 
tude than Syracuse ; though from the rapidly increas- 
ing growth of both, it is not improbable that they will 
ere long become a continuous town. A fine view of 
the Onondaga Lake, about a mile distant, is had from 
the place. It is six miles long and two broad. At its 
north western extremity is seen the pleasant village of 
Liverpool, of recent origin, but promising to become a 
place of some importance. Gypsum and petrifactions 
are found in great quantities in the vicinity of the lake. 

The Oswego Canal, from the Onondaga lake to 
Lake Ontario at Oswego, is 33 miles long, including 20 
miles of the Oswego river, on which are several locks 
and dams. The whole lockage of the canal and river is 
123 feet. 

Geddes, 2 miles by canal, from Syracuse, is becom- 
ing a place of some importance, in consequence of the 
recent discovery of several valuable salt springs. They 
are mostly within a few rods of the canal, as well as 
numerous establishments for the manufacture of salt. 
A short distance west of the village, a fine prospect is 
had of the Onondaga lake and the villages of Liverpool 
and Salina, on its northern and eastern shores. 

Nine Mile Creek, 6 miles from Geddes. It is a 
stream of some magnitude, and is crossed by the canal, 
over two arches. 

Canton, a small village, 6 miles. 

Jordan, 6 miles. A short distance east of the village, 
the canal crosses the Jordan creek. 

Weed's Basin, 6 miles, A thriving village of 50 or 

60 houses. A stage can be taken here daily for Auburn, 

7 miles south. {See p. 22L) 
w 



248 CANAL ROUTE — MONTEZUMA. 

Port Byron, 3 miles. The canal here crosses the 
Owasco creek, a stream issuing from a lake of that 
name 2 miles south of Auburn. The state prison is 
erected on the bank of this creek, the waters of which 
are used for propelling the machinery. 

Five miles farther are the Montezuma salt works, 
about 1-4 of a mile north of the canal, with a lateral cut 
leading thereto ; one mile from which is the small vil- 
lage of 

Montezuma. The western section of the canal 
(contradistinguished from the middle and eastern sec- 
tions) commences at this place. From Utica to Mon- 
tezuma the mean descent of the canal isJ45 feet ; and 
there are 9 locks, ascending and descending. From 
Montezuma to Lockport the ascent is 185 feet, and the 
number of intervening locks 21. The waters of the 
canal at Montezuma are remarkably pure and chrysta- 
line in their appearance, not unfrequently exhibiting 
large quantities of fish at their bottom. 

One mile from Montezuma, the canal enters the 
Montezuma marshes, 3 miles in extent. These marsh- 
es are formed by the outlets of the Cayuga and Seneca 
lakes, and exhibit a most dreary, desolate and stagnant 
appearance. The water is generally from 4 to 8 feet 
deep, and the bottom covered with long grass, the usual 
growth of swamps, extending frequently to the surface. 
A long bridge is used for a tow path over a part of these 
marshes. Shortly after leaving them, the canal crosses 
and unites with the outlet of the Canandaigua lake, a 
sluggish stream, which, with the outlets of Cayuga and 
Seneca, soon form the Seneca river, which enters lake 
Ontario at Oswego. 



CANAL ROUTE — PITTSFORD. 249 

Cltde, 11 miles from Montezuma, is a flourishing 
village, containing glass works. From thence to Ly- 
•ONS, a handsome village, is 9 miles ; and from thence 
to Newark 7 miles. 

Palmyra, 8 miles from Newark, is a thriving village 
in Wayne county. It is built chiefly on a wide street 
ulong the south bank of the canal, and is a place of 
considerable trade. Mud creek runs eastward, about 
40 rods north of the main street, and the canal passes 
between the creek and the street. There are several 
factories and mills on this creek. Palmyra and Port 
Gibson are landing places for goods designed for Can- 
andaigua. 

Fullom's Basin, 13 miles. From this place to Roch- 
ester, by canal, is 16 miles ; while the distance by land 
is but 7 1-2. Travellers, accordingly, who have seen 
the Great Embankment over the Irondequoit creek, fre- 
quently take a stage, to shorten the excursion ; but 
those who have never passed over this artificial work, 
should continue on the canal route. The embankment 
is reached in about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and ia 
continued for nearly two miles at an average height of 
about 70 feet. The novelty of a passage at so great 
an elevation, is much increased in the fine prospect af- 
forded of the surrounding country. Two miles from 
the embankment, is the handsome village of 

PiTTSFORD, containing 80 or 90 houses and several 
stores ; and 10 miles farther, is the flourishing and im- 
portant village of 



950 CANAL ROUTE ROCHESTER. 

ROCHESTER. 

It is situated on the east and west side of the Gene- 
see river, which, at this place, is 50 yards wide, and is 
crossed by 2 substantial bridges within the limits of the 
village. On the north side of the lower bridge, the lo- 
cal distinctions of East and West Rochester have been 
in a measure annihilated, by the erection of the Mar- 
ket and Exchange buildings over the Genesee, making 
the twain a continued village. Within its limits are 
two of the six falls on the river : the upper a small fall 
of 12 feet at the foot of the rapids, and immediately 
above the canal aqueduct ; and the other the great fall 
of 97 feet, about 80 rods below. From a point of rock 
about the centre of these falls, at the foot of a small isl- 
and, the celebrated Sam Patch made his last and fatal 
jump, in the autumn of 1829. From a scaflbld elevated 
25 feet above the table rock, making the entire height 
125 feet, he fearlessly and carelessly precipitated him- 
self into the abyss beneath. He did not rise at that 
time to the surface ; nor was his body found until the 
following spring, when it was discovered at the mouth 
of the Genesee river, 6 miles below. His arms were 
probably dislocated at the first shock, as he carried them 
horizontally ; and the depth of water being only fifteen 
and a half feet, it is supposed that he was killed by 
striking on the rocky bottom. He was a little less 
than three seconds in falling, and struck the surface 
with a force of about 8000 lbs. 

From a complete wilderness, Rochester has been re- 
deemed in the comparatively short period of 18 years, 
the first settlement having been made in 1812, Its sit- 
uation in the immediate vicinity of the canal, and only 



CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 251 

7 miles from Lake Ontario, with a ship navigation with- 
in two miles of the town, enables its inhabitants to se- 
lect a market either at New- York, Quebec, or on the 
borders of the great western lakes ; and the many oth- 
er, natural advantages which it enjoys for trade and 
manufactures, destines it to become one of the most 
important places in the interior of the state. The pop- 
ulation of Rochester at the census taken in the fall of 
1827, was 10,818, making ah increase of more than 
3,000 within the preceding year ; and the number of 
buildings was 1474, 352 of which had been built the 
season previous. Its population in 1829 was estimated 
at 13,000, and its number of buildings at near 2000. 
The Erie canal strikes the river in the south part of the 
village, and after following the eastern bank for half a 
mile, crosses the river in the centre of the village, in 
a splendid aqueduct, which cost rising of $80,000. Tliis 
aqueduct is constructed of red free stone, and from the 
eastern extremity of its parapet walls to the western 
termination, is 804 feet long. It is built on eleven 
arches ; one of 26, one of 30, and nine of 50 feet chord, 
under which water passes for flouring mills and other 
hydraulic establishments. The piers, which are placed 
on solid rock, in the bed of the river, are 4 1-2, and 
the arches resting thereon 1 1 feet high. On the north 
wall, which is of sufficient thickness for the towing 
path, is an iron railing ; and at the west end, the whole 
is terminated by a highway and towing path bridge, of 
the most solid and elegant workmanship. The canal 
is supplied by a navigable feeder from the Genesee, 
through which boats may enter and ascend the river 
from 70 to 90 miles. The height of the canal at Roch- 

w2 



252. CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 

ester above the tide waters of the Hudson is 501 feet ; 
above Lake Ontario, 270 feet ; and below Lake Erie, 
64 feet. 

Among the pubUe buildings in the village, are a court 
house, jail, 11 churches, 2 markets, 2 banks and a 
museum, together with two valuable institutions, the 
Franklin Institute and Atheneum. The Globe build- 
ings, a majestic pile, built of the most durable materi- 
als, and rising from the water's edge, are 5 stories, ex- 
clusive of attics, with between 130 and 140 apartments 
suitable for workshops, (having a sufficient water pow- 
er for each,) and several stoi'es. The principal public 
houses are the Rochester House, Clinton House, Eagle 
Tavern, Mansion House and Arcade House. There 
are also two daily and several weekly newspapers. 

Within the limits of the village are 1 1 flouring mills, 
containing 53 run of stones, capable of manufacturing 
2500 bushels of flour and consuming more than 12,000 
bushels of wheat every 24 hours. Some of the mills 
are on a scale of magnitude perhaps not equalled in the 
world. One of them contains more than four acres of 
flooring, and all are considered unrivalled in the perfec- 
tion of their machinery. The immense water power at 
this place opens a wonderful field for labor saving ma- 
chinery, among which are many ingenious operations, 
well worthy the inspection of the curious in those mat- 
ters. 

The Arcade, erected the past year, (1S29,) is 100 
feet in front, 135 feet in depth, and 4 stories high, ex- 
clusive of the attic and basement. Ii has 6 stores in 
front, with a large opening for a passage to the ^Srcade^ 
where the post office, atheneum, arcade house, and a 



CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 253 

variety of offices are located. From the centre arises 
an observatory in the form of a Chinese Pagoda, which 
overlooks the surrounding country ; and in clear w^eath- 
■er the lake can be seen like a strip of blue cloud in the 
horizon. The front of this edifice is stuccoed, in imita- 
tion of marble, except the first story, w^hich is of the 
Oswego red free stone. 

The geological structure of this region can be easily 
traced, and is beautifully illustrated in the banks of the 
river, which are from 100 to 200 feet in height, with a 
descent of 270 feet to the lake. At Carthage, two miles 
below, are a great variety of petrefactions, which have 
been blasted from the rocks in forming a canal for mill 
privileges. Seven miles from Rochester, a part of the 
way on the ridge road, on the east side of the river, is 
Irondequoit bay, with a high sand ridge running across 
it, except about two rods, where there is a channel ; 
the shore is fine and sandy, and equals any in Ameri- 
ca for bathing. The bay is also celebrated for fishing 
and fowling. 

Stages leave Rochester daily, by way of Palmyra, 
Weed's Basin, Syracuse, Cherry Valley and Schoharie 
for Albany J 217 miles ; and by way of Canandaigua, 
Geneva, Auburn, Skaneateles, Onondaga, Utica, Little 
Falls and Schenectady, for Albany, 237 miles. They 
also leave daily, by way of Lewiston (passing over the 
ridge road) and Niagara Falls, for Buffalo, 104 miles;* 

* The ridge road commences 2 1-2 miles from Roch- 
ester, over which the following are the intervening dis- 
tances between that place and Buffalo: Carthage Falls 
2 miles, Parma 9, Clarkson 7, Murray 7, Ridge way 15, 
riartland 10, Cambria 12, Lewiston 12, Niagara Falls 
7, Buffalo 22. 



5234 CARTHAGE. 

and by way of Caledonia, Le Roy and Batavia, for Bw/- 
Jido, 77 miles. 

Packet Boats, also, leave Rochester every morning 
for Buffalo and for Albany. 

The Steam Boat, Ontano, constantly plies during 
the summer season between Lewiston on the Niagara, 
and Ogdensburgh on the St. Lawrence river, touching 
at Hanford's Landing, 3 miles from Rochester, by 
which passages may be had to the Falls or Montreal 
once a week. [This route is noticed morefidly under the 
head of Lake Ontario.] 

Before leaving Rochester, (unless the ridge road or 
steam boat route should be taken,) the traveller will 
fiad it an object of interest to visit 

Carthage, 2 miles down the Genesee river. This 
village derived its consequence from an elegant bridge, 
which, during its existence, formed the most eligible 
route to the western part of the state. The bridge was 
erected across the river just below the basin of the 
falls, winch are 70 feet. It consisted of a single arch, 
whose chord measured 300 feet. The distance from 
the centre to the river was 250 feet. This stupendous 
fabric stood a short time after its construction, and at 
length fell under the pressure of its own weight. 
One of the hutments is still standing; and from its 
situation, visitants may judge of the former position of 
the bridge, and the almost impious presumption of man 
in attempting to overcome height, space, gravity, and 
the resistless fury of the elements. Sloops from the 
lake, 5 miles distant, ascend up the river to these 
falls; where they are laden and unladen by means 



.M 



CANAL ROUTE — OAK OHCHARl). 'i55 

of an inclined plane — the descending weight being 
made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. 

The great western level on the canal commences two 
miles east of Rochester ; from whence to Lockport, a 
distance of 65 miles, there is no lock. Between the 
two villages, the route is mostly through a wilderness. 
Occasionally a new village is seen springing up on the 
banks of the canal ; and appearances indicate, that the 
forests on the whole line will ere long give place to 
cultivation and compact settlements. 

Ogden, a small village, is 12 miles from Rochester ; 
and from thence to 

Brockport is 9 miles. The village contains 80 or 
100 houses ; and the number is rapidly increasing. 

HoLLEY, 5 miles. A short distance east of the vil- 
lage is the Holley Emhankment and culvert, over Sandy 
creek, elevating the canal 87 feet above the level of the 
creek. 

Newport, 10 miles ; a flourishing village of 80 or 100 
houses. Eight miles farther, in the town of Ridgway, 
a public road passes under the canal, through a hand- 
some arch ; one mile from which, is the village of 

Oak Orchard, on the bank of a creek of that name. 
The canal here crosses the creek over the largest arch 
on the whole route. There are circular steps leading 
to the bottom ; from whence is a foot path passing un- 
derneath and leading to the village. As the boat " waits 
for no man," passengers desirous of seeing Uiis artifi- 
cial work, should go ashore before reaching it, and gain 
time by a rapid walk. They can be received on board 



256 CANAL ROUTE — LOCKPORT. 

again at the village, where the boat stops to land and 
receive passengers. 

MiDDLEPORT is 7 miles farther ; from whence to 

LocKPORT is 12 miles. By far the most gigantic 
works on the whole line of the canal, are at this place. 
After travelling between 60 and 70 miles on a perfect 
level, the traveller here strikes the foot of the " Moun- 
tain Ridge," which is surmounted by 5 magnificent 
locks of 12 feet each, connected with 5 more of equal 
dimensions for descending — so that while one boat is 
raised to an elevation of 60 feet, another is seen sink- 
ing into the broad basin below. The locks are of the 
finest imaginable workmanship, with stone steps in the 
centre and on either side, guarded with iron railings, 
for the convenience and safety of passengers. Added 
to this stupendous work, an excavation is continued 
through the mountain ridge, composed of rock, a dis- 
tance of three miles, at an average depth of 20 feet. 
When viewing this part of the canal, we are amazed 
with the consideration of what may be accomplished 
by human means. 

The village of Lock port is mostly located on the 
mountain ridge, immediately above the locks ; and 
though "founded on a rock," surrounded with rocks, 
and with little or no soil, it has already become a place 
of importance. In 1821, there were but 2 houses in the 
place ; now there are between 3 and 400. The canal 
here being on the highest summit level, and supplied 
with water from lake Erie, (distant 30 miles,) an 
abundance is obtained for hydraulic purposes, and the 
surplus at Lockport has been sold for $20,000. 



BUFFALO. 257 

In the excavation through the mountain, several 
minerals were dircovered ; among which were some 
of the finest specimens of dog tooth spar ever found in 
the U. States. At first they were easily obtained ; but 
they have lately become an object of profit, and are 
sold at prices corresponding with their beauty. 

Seven miles from Lockport,* at Pendleton, the ca- 
nal enters the Tonnewanta creek, and continues there- 
in 12 miles to its mouth, where is a dam 4 1-2 feet high. 
From thence it is continued on the bank of the Niagara 
8 miles to Black Rock, where it unites with the harbor, 
and from thence on the bank of the river 3 miles, to 
Bui&lo. 

BUFFALO 

Is situated at the outlet of Lake Erie. It is a beau- 
tiful and thriving village, and with the advantages of 
both a natural and artificial navigation, it is destined 
to become one of the most important places in the 
state. Its present population is estimated at upwards 
of 7000, and the number of buildings at 1000. The 
Erie canal commences in this village, near the outlet of 
the Buffalo creek, and passes through an extensive and 
perfectly level plot, equadistant from the shore of the 
I lake and the high grounds called the Terrace. From 
[ the canal are cut, at very suitable distances, lateral ca- 
nals and basins, rendering the whole of the lower town 



* Passengers in packets, who wish to visit the Falls, 
generally take a stage at Lockport, and proceed direct- 
ly to Manchester (the American Fall) 23 miles distant, 
or to Lewiston, 7 miles below the Falls ; visiting the 
latter afterwards. 



258 BUFFALO. 

contiguous to water communication. Stores and ware- 
houses are so constructed, as to receive the boats along 
side. In its location, Buffalo is in the midst of the en- 
terprize and business of this new world. All the man- 
ufactures and migrating population of the north and 
east here find a resting place, and the agricultural pro- 
ducts of the west, coming hither from the long extend- 
ed lakes, here seek a new avenue to the Atlantic. The 
lowei' town will soon be spread over that part below 
the Ten-ace, where begins a gentle and equal rise of 
ground, continuing nearly and perhaps quite two miles, 
and then falls away to a perfect level as far as the eye 
can reach, bounded only by the horizon. Upon this 
elevated ground there is a charming view of the lake, 
Niagara river, the canal with all its branches, the Buf- 
falo creek, the town itself, and the Canada shore ; a 
prospect from which every one parts with reluctance. 
The streets are very broad, and passing from the high 
grounds over the Terrace to the water, are intersected 
with cross streets. There are 3 public squares of some 
extent, which add much to the beauty of the town. 
The public buildings are a court-house, situated on the 
highest part of Main-street, well proportioned and 
handsomely ornamented. The Presbyterian meeting 
house, standing near the Episcopal church upon a semi- 
circular common on Main-street, is an edifice of very 
commanding appearance. There are many spacious 
hotels, for the accommodation of the traveller ; among 
wliich, the Eagle Tavern, kept by Mr. Rathbun, is con- 
sidered one of the best in the union. 

The village was burnt by the British in 1814, when 
there was but one house left standing. This is still 
pointed out in the upper part of the town. It was not 



BUFFALO. 259 

ttntil considerable time had elapsed after this, that Buf- 
falo began to be rebuilt, nor until the canal was locat- 
ed, did it rise with much promise. 

Great improvements have recently been made in the 
harbor. The sand from the lake met the current of 
the Buffalo creek, and formed every season a bar which 
prejudiced the harbor to an alanning degree. By an 
erection of a pier, 18 feet wide and 80 rods long, run- 
ning into the lake, this evil is overcome. The Imver 
town is subject to another evil of some magnitude. 
Gales or tempests from the southwest cause an inun- 
dation of the lake, by means of which great losses of 
property are frequently sustained. This may, and 
probably will be prevented, by constructing a dike at a 
suitable place near the bank of the lake. 

As this place was the theatre of important events 
during the last war, the writer had expected to find in 
the village church yard some monuments to the memo- 
ry of the brave who fell during that period. But he 
discovered only one ; it contained the following in- 
scription : " To the memory of Maj. Wm. Howe Cut- 
ler, who was killed at Black Rock by a shot from the 
enemy, on the night of the 9th October, 1812, while 
humanely administering to the relief of the wounded 
soldiers, who intrepidly crossed to the British shore, 
and brought over the Adams frigate, that had been sur- 
rendered by Gen. Hull, and the Caledonia ship belong- 
ing to the enemy. He was in the 35th year of his age, 
and son of the late Henry Cuyler, Esq. of Greenbush, 
in this state." 

The Seneca Viltuse, settled by a tribe of about 300 
Indians, is from 3 to 4 miles south east of Bulfdlo, and is 

X 



260 WESTERN LAKES. 

usually visited by strangers. The tribe own a valuable 
tract of land, bordering on the Buffalo creek ; which, 
under the management of the whites, would yield lux- 
uriantly ; but, in the hands of its present proprietors, is 
but partially improved. Red Jacket, a celebrated chief 
of this nation, died in 1829, at an advanced age. 

Stages leave Buffalo every morning and evening for 
Utica — the morning line going through by day-hght in 
3 days — the evening, day and night, in two days. A 
line also runs daily to Rochester. 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 

Before proceeding down the Niagara river to the 
Falls, it may be interesting to tourists to examine a 
brief description of the great chain of lakes whose wat- 
ers flow through this channel. It will give a more ad- 
equate idea of the vast amount of waters which are 
united in this stupendous river. 

Lake Superior, the first and westernmost of these 
inland seas, lies between 46*^ and 49° of north latitude, 
and between 84° and 93° west longitude from London. 
Its length is 459, and its average width 109 miles. 
About 40 small and 3 large rivers enter into this lake, 
on one of which, just before its entrance, are perpen- 
dicular falls of more than 600 feet. The water of the 
lake is remarkably transparent, so much so, that a ca- 
noe over the depth of six fathoms seems rather suspen- 
ded in air than resting on the water. The outlet of the 
lake is called the river St. Marie, which is 90 miles 
long, its waters flowing into 

Lakc Huron. This lake is on the boundary between 
the U. States and Canada, 218 miles long from east to 



VVESTERW LAKES. 261 

west, and 1 30 broad. Besides the waters of Lake Stt- 
perior, it receives the waters of 

Lake Michigan, which is 300 miles long and about 
50 miles wide. At its northwest corner a large in- 
let opens, called Green Bay, about 100 miles long, and 
from 15 to 20 broad, into which Fox river empties. 
Three miles from the mouth of this river is Green Bay 
village, a very considerable settlement, and a U. States 
military post, called Fort Howard. The fort is built of 
stone, and is on a beautiful rising ground. Steam-boats 
from Buffalo visit this place occasionally during the 
summer — distance 807 miles. Besides the Fox, the St. 
Joseph and Grand, two very important rivers, and in- 
numerable smaller streams, discharge their waters into 
Lake Michigan. 

Near the mouth of the straits which unite the Michi- 
gan with the Huron lake, and within the latter, is tho 
island of Michilimackinac, commonly called Mackinaw, 
distinguished as a militaryfpost during the French war, 
and occupied as such by the government of the \J. S. 
at the present time. The island is about 9 miles in 
circumference ; and the village of Mackinaw, which is 
on its south east side, is surrounded with a steep cliff 
150 feet high. On the top of this cliff stands a fort ; 
half a mile from which, on another summit, 300 feet 
above the level of the lake, is Fort Holmes, command- 
ing an extensive prospect of both lakes. Mackinaw is 
180 miles NE. of Fort Howard, 313 N. of Detroit, and 
627 NW. of Buffalo. 

The waters of these lakes thus congregated, enter 
the St. Clair river, 40 miles long, to the St. Clair Lake, 
which is about 90 miles in circumference. From this 



262 FROM BUEFALO TO NIAGARA. 

lake they enter the Detroit river, on which the city of 
Detroit* stands, 9 miles below the lake, and commu- 
nicate with Lake Erie, 19 miles from Detroit. 

Lake Erie is on the boundary line between the U. S. 
and Upper Canada. It is 290 miles long from SW. 
to NE., and in the widest part, 63 broad. Besides 
the waters of the upper lakes, it receives the Gayahoga 
river and several tributary streams. 

Such are the sources of the Niagara ; a river infe- 
rior in splendor to none, perhaps, in the world. 

FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, 

on the American side. 

A stage leaves Buffalo every morning at 6 o'clock, 
passing through the village of Black Rock 3 miles, 
Tonnewanta 9 miles, (where the canal enters the Tonne- 
wanta creek,) Niagara Falls 11 miles. Fare $1. This 
line, after giving passengers an opportunity of witness- 
ing the Falls for 2 or 3 hours, proceeds to Youngstown, 
or Fort Niagara, passing through Lewdston. 
On the Canada side. 

A stage leaves Buffalo, daily, at 8 A. M. passes 
through Black Rock 3 miles, crosses the ferry to Water- 
loo 1 mile, and proceeds to Chippewa battle ground 15 
miles, Chippewa village 1 mile, Niagara Falls 2 miles. 
Fare, including ferriage, $1,12. Stages leave Niagara 
at 3 P. M. for Queenston and Fort George. 



* Steam boats leave Buffalo every other day for De-, 
troit, stopping at Erie, 90 miles — Grand River, 60 — 
Cleaveland, 30— Sandusky, 55— Detroit, 71— total 305 
miles. Fare, in the cabin, ^15. Boats also leave Buf- 
falo daily for Erie, Ponn. touching at Dunkirk and Port- 
land. 



FORT ERIE. ,^ !2G3 

STEAM BOAT LINE. 

The steam-boat Chippewa leaves Buffalo every mor- 
ning at 8 o'clock, passing every other day around 
Grand Island, and reaches the village of Chippevt'a 
about noon ; from whence passengers take stages for 
the Falls. The boat returns to Buffalo at 7 P. M. Fare 
each way $1. 

Black Rock, 3 miles from Buffalo, is a village of 
considerable magnitude on the west bank of the Nia- 
gara river. It was burnt by the British in 1814 ; but 
has been rebuilt, and is much increased from its former 
size. Among its most prominent buildings is the pri- 
vate mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of 
war, which has a very handsome appearance from the 
Mrater. A pier in the river, about 2 miles long, affords 
a harbor to the village, and is used as a part of the 
grand canal. The dam, however, has been found in- 
sufficient to withstand the force of the current. Re- 
peated injuries are sustained, and vessels now seldom 
enter the harbor. The Niagara river is here one mile 
wide, and is crossed in a horse boat. Opposite Black 
Rock, on the Canada side, is the email village of 

Waterloo ; a little south of which stand the ruins 
of Fort Erie, rendered memorable as the theatre of 
several severe engagements during the last war. The 
last and most decisive battle fought at this place, was 
on the night of the 15th of August, 1814. The fort 
was occupied by the Americans ; and its possessioD 
was considered an object of importance to the British. 
Taking advantage of the darkness of the night, they 
made repeated and furious assaults, and were as often 

x2 



364 CHIPPEWA BATTI-E GROUNP. 

repulsed ; until, at length, they succeeded, by superior 
force, in gaining a bastion. After maintaining it for a 
short time, at the expense of many lives, accident placed 
it again in the hands of the Americans. Several car- 
tridges which had been placed in a stone building ad- 
joining exploded, producing tremendous slaughter and 
death among the British. They soon retreated, leav- 
ing on the field 221 killed, among whom were Cols. 
Scott and Drummond, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners. 
The American loss was 17 killed, 56 wounded, and 11 
missing. 

This action was followed by a splendid sortie near 
the fort on the I7th of the following month, which re- 
sulted in a loss to the British of nearly 1000, including 
385 prisoners, and to the Americans of 511 killed, 
wounded and missing. 

From Waterloo to Chippewa Battle Ground is 
15 miles, over a tolerably good, though sandy road. 

The Battle of Chippewa was fought on the 5th of July, 
1814, and has been described as one of the most bril- 
liant spectacles that could well be conceived. " The 
day (says a writer) was clear and bright ; and the plain 
such as might have been selected for a parade or a 
tournament ; the troops on both sides, though not nu- 
merous, admirably diciplincd ; the generals leading on 
their columns in person ; the glitter of the arms in the 
sun, and the precision and distinctness of every move- 
ment, were all calculated to carry the mind back to 
the scenes of ancient story or poetry — to the plains of 
Latium or of Troy, and all those recollections which 
fill the imagination with images of personal heroism 
and romantic valor. 



CllirPEWA VIJ^LAUE. -265 

After some skirmishing, the British Indians were 
discovered in the rear of the American camp. Gen. 
Porter, with his volunteers and Indians, were directed 
to scour in the adjoining forest. This force had near- 
ly debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when 
it was ascertained that the whole British force, under 
Gen. Riall, had crossed the Chippewa bridge. Gen. 
Brown gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance 
with his brigade, and to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness 
to support. In a few minutes the British line was dis- 
covered formed and rapidly advancing, their right on 
the woods, and- their left on the river. Their object 
was to gain the bridge across a small creek in front of 
the American encampment, which, if done would have 
compelled the Americans to retire. This bridge, how- 
ever, was soon gained by Gen. Scott and crossed, un- 
der a tremendous fire of the British artillery, and his 
line formed. The British orders were to give one vol- 
ley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such 
was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not 
withstand it, and were obliged to retreat before the ap- 
pearance of Ripley's brigade, which had been directed 
to make a movement through the woods upon the ene- 
my's right flank. The British recrossed the Chippewa 
bridge, which they broke down on their retreat, having 
suffered a loss in killed, wounded and missing, of 514. 
The American loss was 323. 

Chippewa Village is one mile north of the battle 
ground. It contains a small cluster of buildings and a 
few mills situate on the Chippewa creek, which runs 
through the village. The ■.team-boat from Buffalo 
lands passengers at this place. One mile farther is 



fi66 BRIDGEWATER. 

Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, celebrated as the 
ground on which an important battle was fought, 20 
days after the battle at Chippewa. The scene of action 
was near the mighty cataract of Niagara, and within 
the sound of its thunders, and was, in proportion to the 
numbers engaged, the most sanguinary, and decidedly 
the best fought of any action which ever took place on 
the American continent. The following letter, written 
by a surgeon of one of the regiments, the day after the 
engagement, contains many interesting particulars : 

" In the afternoon the enemy advanced towards 
Chippewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock Gen. 
Scott was ordered to advance with his brigade and at- 
tack them. He was soon reinforced by General Rip- 
ley's brigade; they met the enemy below the falls. 
They had selected their ground for the night, intend- 
ing to attack our camp before day -light. The action 
began just before 7, and an uninterrupted stream of 
musketry continued till half past 8, when there was 
some cessation, the British falling back. It soon be- 
gan again with some artillery, which, with slight inter- 
ruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was a 
charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- 
flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering 
on madness ; neither would yieid the palm, but each 
retired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. 
Such a constant and destructive fire was never before 
sustained by American troops without falling back. 

"The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord 
Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For 
two hours the two hostile lines were within 20 yards of 



J'llDGEWATER. 267 

equently intermingled, that often 
an omcer wouia order an enemy's platoon. The moon 
shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like 
the Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They 
frequently charged, and were as often driven back. 
Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to 
storm the British battery. We charged, and took eve- 
ry piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession 
of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, 
when we all fell back more than 2 miles. Tliis was 
done to secure our camp, which might otherwise have 
been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of 
them killed, and there being no ropes to the pieces, we 
got off but two or three. The men were so excessive- 
ly fatigued they could not drag them. We lost one 
howitzer, the horses being on full gallop towards the 
enemy to attack them, the riders were shot off and the 
horses ran through the enemy's line. We lost one 
piece of cannon, which was too much advanced, every 
man being shot that had charge of it, but two. Sever- 
al of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, 
which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of 
ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon 
could not be used with advantage." 

The British loss in killed, wounded and prisoners 
was 878 ; and the American loss 860. 

The road to the falls passes directly over the hill 
where the British artillery were posted at the time 
Scott's brigade commenced the action ; and the hou- 
ses in the village of Bridgcwater — the trees and fences 
in the vicinity, still retain marks of the combat. Many 
graves are seen upon the hill j among others, that of 



2^B NIAGARA FALLS. 

Capt. Hull, son of the late Gen. Hull, who distinguish- 
ed himself and fell in this action. Most of the slain 
were collected and burned upon the battle ground ; on 
which spot it is in contemplation to erect a church. 

Burning Spring. 

About half a mile north of Lundy's Lane, and within 
a few feet of the rapids in the Niagara river, is a Burn- 
ing Spring. The water is warm and surcharged with 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water rises in a bar- 
rel, which is covered, and the gas escapes through a 
tube. On applying a candle to the tube, the gas takes 
fire, and burns with a brilliant flame until blown out ; 
and on closing the building for a short time in which 
tlie spring is contained, and afterwards entering it with 
a lighted candle, an explosion may be produced. A 
small fee for the exhibition is required by the keeper of 
the spring. 

Half a mile from the Burning Spring are the cele- 
brated 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

They are situated on the Niagara River, which 
unites the waters of Lake Erie and the upper lakes 
with Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. The river is 
35 miles in length, and from 1-2 mile to 5 or 6 in width. 
The banks of the river vary in their height above the 
Falls, from 4 to 100 feet. Immediately below the Falls 
the precipice is not less than 300 feet, and from thence 
to lake Ontario gradually diminishes to the height of 
25 or 30 feet. The Niagara river contains a number of 
islands, the principal of which is Grand Island, which 
wa3 ceded to the state of New- York by the Seneca Na- 



NIAGARA FALLS. 269 

tion of Indians, in 1815. For the grant the state paid 
^1000 down, and secured an annuity of S500. This 
island is 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 broad. 

The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 20 
miles distant from Lake Erie, and 14 from Lake Onta- 
rio. At Chippewa creek, 2 miles above the Falls, the 
width of the river is nearly 2 miles, and its current ex- 
tremely rapid. From thence to the Falls it gradually 
narrows to about 1 mile in width. The descent of the 
rapids has been estimated at 58 feet. The course of 
the river above the Falls is north-westwardly, and be- 
low it turns abruptly to the north-east, and flows about 
a mile and a half, when it assumes a northern direction 
to Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over a summit 
in the form of a crescent, extending some distance up 
the stream. The sheet of water is separated by Goat 
Island, leaving the grand fall on the Canada side, about 
600 yards wide, and the high fall on the American side, 
about 300. The fall en the American side drops al- 
most perpendicularly to the distance of 164 feet. The 
grand or horse-shoe fall, on the Canada side, descends 
to the river below in the form of a curve, 158 feet, pro- 
jecting about 50 feet from the base. The whole 
height, including the descent of the rapids above, is 
216 feet. 

0)1 the Canada strfe, 

The view from the table rock, has been generally 
considered preferable ; but this point must be decided 
by the different tastes of visitors. The table rock pro- 
jects about 50 feet, and between it and the Falls an ir- 
regular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch, 
almost without interruption, to the island. The de- 



370 NIAGARA FALLS. 

scent from the table rock is by means of a spiral 
Btair-way, which is enclosed. Visitants desirous of 
passing in the rear of the great sheet of water, are 
supplied by the keeper of the stairs with dresses for 
that purpose, and with a guide. On reaching the bot- 
tom, a rough path winds along the foot of the precipice 
and leads under the excavated bank, which, in one 
place, overhangs about 40 feet. The entrance into the 
tremendous ^cavern behind the falling sheet should 
never be attempted by persons of weak nerves. The 
humidity of the atmosphere, which, at times, almost 
prevents respiration ; the deafening roar of the foaming 
torrent, and the sombre appearance of surrounding ob- 
jects, is oftentimes calculated to unnerve the stoutest 
frame. The farthest distance that can be approached, 
is to what is called Termination Rock, 153 feet from the 
commencement of the volume of water at Table Rock. 
Few, however, have the courage to proceed that dis- 
tance ; and seldom go farther than 100 feet. 

A large crack in the table rock, which has increased 
annually for some years, renders it very certain that 
a considerable proportion will ere long fall into 
the abyss below. The part thus cracked is nearly 50 
feet in width, and might be blasted off without difficul- 
ty. The height of tliis rock has been ascertained to be 
163 feet ; while that of the Falls, measuring from the 
bridge near the terrapin rocks, has proved to be 158 
feet 4 inches. 

The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Forsyth, on the Canada 
side, is on a lofty eminence above the Falls ; affording 
from its piazzas and roof a beautiful prospect of the 
surrounding scenery. It is a handsomely constructed 



NIAGARA FALLS. 271 

building, and can accommodate from 100 to 150 guests. 
Row boats are continually crossing the river about 
a quarter of a mile below the falls. The rapidity of 
the current, the numerous eddies, and the agitated ap- 
pearance of the water, are calculated to impress a 
stranger with an idea, that a passage is hazardous. 
But we believe few, if any accidents have ever happen- 
jed. The boatmen are skilful, and the crossing is gen- 
erally effected in about 15 minutes. 

The Falls on the American side^ 
Though less gigantic, are nevertheless beautiful; 
and would alone be considered one of the greatest nat- 
ural curiosities in the world. A flight of stairs has 
been sonstructed from the bank a few rods below the 
fall to the bottom. In consequence of a rocky barrier 
in front of the falling sheet, it can be approached to 
within a few feet ; though not without encountering a 
plentiful shower of the spray. About a quarter of a 
mile above the fall, a bridge has been constructed from 
the shore to Bath Island ; M'hich is connected by 
means of another bridge with Goat Island. The sen- 
sation in crossing these bridges, and particularly the 
first,* over the tremendous rapids beneath, is calculat- 



* Gen. Peter B. Porter, of Black Rock, to whom the 
public are indebted for the construction of this bridge, 
informed me that its erection was not effected without 
considerable danger. Two large trees, hewed to cor- 
respond with their shape, were first constructed into a 
temporary bridge, the buts fastened to the shore, with 
the lightest ends projecting over the rapids. At the 
extremity of the projection, a small butment of stone 

Y 



272 HIAGARA FALLSr 

cd to alarm the traveller for his safety, and hasten hin» 
in hia excursion to the Island. On Bath Island, mills 
have been erected, contiguous to what is termed the 
tace-toay, which divides Bath from Goat Island. The 
latter, which is 330 yards broad, is principally a wilder- 
ness. On the southern and western banks an exten- 
sive view is had of the rapids above and of the grand 
fall on the Canada side. But the best view of the lat- 
ter is obtained from a small bridge which has been 
erected from the island to the Terrapin rocks, adjoining 
the falls, 300 feet from the shore. From the end of 
this bridge, which is placed on the very verge of the 
precipice, the frightful abyss, covered with a foam of 
snowy whiteness, is seen beneath. No one can wit- 
ness it at first, without involuntarily shrinking back, 
A fear that the frail structure on which he stands may 
possibly give way, induces him to retrace his steps 
with as little delay as practicable ; and it is not until 
after repeated visits, that this alarm wholly subsides. 

At the foot of Iris Island (adjoining Goat Island) is 
what is called the Biddle stair-way, erected by N. Bid- 



was at first placed in the river, and when this became 
secure, logs were sunk around it, locked in such a 
manner as to form a frame, which was filled with stone. 
A bridge was then made to this but ment, the tempora- 
ry bridge shoved forward, and another butment form- 
ed, until the whole was completed. One man fell into 
the rapids during the work. At first, owing to the ve- 
locity with which he was carried forward, he was un- 
able to hold upon the projecting rocks ; but through 
great bodily exertions to lessen the motion, by swim- 
ming against the current, he was enabled to seize up- 
on a rock, from which he was taken by means of a ropes. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 273 

DIE, Esq. president of the U. S. Bank. This affords 
a safe and easy passage to a position more favorable 
than any other, for viewing this stupendous work of 
nature. The elevation of the island above the margin 
of the river or basin below, is 185 feet. The descent of 
the first 40 feet is effected by a flight of steps, com- 
mencing in the interior of the island, and descending on 
an inclined plane to the brow of the perpendicular 
work, through a dugway walled on both sides ; the 
second flight is by a spiral stair v/ay of 88 steps, down 
a perpendicular building in the shape of a hexigon, rest- 
ing on a firm foundation — the whole handsomely en- 
closed. From the foot of this building to the river be- 
low, (about 80 feet) are three paths formed of stone 
steps, and leading to the water in different directions.* 

The amount of water which passes over the respec- 
tive falls, has been estimated by Dr. D wight at more 
than 100 millions of tons an hour. No method can be 
devised for ascertaining the depth at the principal fall ; 
but it is not improbable that it may be 6 or 800 feet ; 
as the depth of the stream half a mile below is from 250 
to 260 feet. 

To a stranger who shall examine the rapids above 
the falls, it will seem incredible that Goat Island should 
ever have been visited previous to the construction of 
the bridge. Yet as early as 1765,1 seveal French offi- 

* It was from ladders erected at this place that the 
celebrated Sam Patch made a descent of 118 feet into 
the water below a short time previous to his fatal jump 
at Rochester in the fall of 1829. 

t Trees marked 1765 and 1769, are still to be seen on 
the island. 



274 NIAGARA FALLS. 

cers were conveyed to it by Indians in canoes, care^ 
fully dropping down the river ; and it is but a few 
years since Gen. Porter, of Black Rock, with some oth- 
er gentlemen, also made a trip to the Island in a boat. 
They found but little difficulty in descending ; but their 
return was difficult and hazardous. It was effected by 
shoving the boat with setting poles up the most shal- 
low part of the current, for half a mile, before making 
for the shore. 

Falling into the current, within a mile of the falls, is 
considered fatal. Several accidents of this kind have 
happened; and no one, (save in the instance men- 
tioned in a preceding page,) has ever reached the shore. 
Many bodies have been found below the falls — those 
that have fallen in the centre of the stream, without 
any external marks of injury; and those that have 
fallen near the shore, much lacerated and disfigured. 
The latter has probably been occasioned by coming in 
contact with rocks in shallow water, before reaching 
the cataract. It is but a few years ' since an Indian, 
partially intoxicated, in attempting to cross the river 
near Chippewa, was forced near the rapids ; when 
finding all efforts to regain the shore unavailing, he lay 
down in his canoe, and was soon plunged into the tre- 
mendous vortex below. He was never seen after- 
wards. 

There are two large boarding establishments on the 
American side, in what is called the village of Man- 
chester. The Eagle Tavern kept by Gen. Whitney, is 
the oldest, and is entitled to a full share of patronage. 
The other has been recently erected, and is a handsome 



WELLAND CANAL. 275 

building, with pleasant and airy apartments. The vil- 
lage was burnt by the British in 1S13 ; but it has been 
rebuilt, and though small, is larger than it was previ- 
ous to that event. 

In giving a general description of the Falls, we have, 
in crossing to the American side, diverged from our pro- 
posed route. While on the Canada shore, it is reccom- 
mended to tourists to visit the Deep Cut on the AVel- 
land canal, eight miles west of the Falls ; return ; pro- 
ceed down the Niagara river through Queenston to 
Fort George or Newark ; cross over to Fort Niagara or 
Youngstown, and proceed up the river, through Lewis- 
ton, to Manchestei". For a short excursion, there are 
many objects of attraction on this route, which are no- 
ticed hereafter. 

The Welland Canal unites the waters of Lakes 
Erie and Ontario, and is constructed for sloops of 125 
tons burthen. The canal commences at Port Mait- 
land, at the mouth of Grand river on Lake Erie, 40 
miles west of Buffalo, and follows the channel of that 
stream nearly a mile and a half, and thence up Broad 
creek nearly a mile, where the artificial channel com- 
mences by a cut of 10 miles through a marsh. It 
then proceeds down Mill creek 2 1-2 miles until it 
intersects the Welland river, into which it descends by 
a lock of eight feet lift ; thence a towing path is con- 
structed along the banks 10 miles — the marsh excava- 
tion from 10 to 16 feet. From Welland river the canal 
runs in a northerly direction winding up a ravine 66 
chains, having 8 or 10 feet cutting ; where commences 
X t2 



276 WELLAND CANAL. 

the deep cutting or dividing vidge, an almost abrupt 
height of 27 feet above the canal bottom. It thence 
runs gradually to 5G feet 6 inches in a distance of 100 
chains ; thence descends to 30 feet in 28 chains, which 
as abruptly breaks off in another ravine ; whole dis- 
tance through the deep cut 1 mile 54 chains; average 
depth 44 feet. To the depth of from 12 to 18 feet from 
the surface, it is a compound of clay, mixed with sand, 
and below this a tenaceous blue clay. From the termina- 
tion of the deep cut to that part where the mountain de- 
scends, is a distance of 4 miles and 23 chains, to lock 
No. 1 as it is called, although it is properly lock No. 2. 
From lock No. 1 the canal continues in a ravine 53 
chains, gradually descending by 4 locks of 22 feet 
width ; and thence for 1 mile and 55 chains it winds 
around the brow of a hill. There are 17 locks in this 
distance, and 60,000 yards of rock excavation. From 
this place the canal enters another ravine to St. Catha- 
rine's, a distance of 2 1-2 miles, in which there are 12 
locks. This may be termed the mountain descent, as 
in a distance of 4 miles and 72 1-2 chains from lock No. 
1, there are 32 locks, with a declination of 322 feet, 
22 feet wide and 100 feet in the pool. From this to 
lake Ontario, a distance of 5 miles, the canal is mostly 
in the bed of the Twelve Mile creek. There are three 
locks in this section, including the one at the harbor, 
each 32 feet wide and 125 feet long ; and five positions 
are taken for dams, one of which is 23 feet high. 

The whole length of this canal is 43 1-2 miles, a lit- 
tle more than 19 of which are slack water j the total 
amount of lockage 334 feet. 



i 



BATTLE OF t^UEENSTON. 277 

The Deep Cut is considered the most gigantic artifi- 
cial work in America, if we except the Desague near 
Mexico ; and, with the precipice of locks which de- 
scend the mountain ridge, forms altogether one of the 
most interesting improvements of the age. 

The Canadians anticipate important results to their 
trade through the medium of this canal ; and numerous 
villages are already springing up on its borders. Some 
parts of New- York wall also share largely in its benefits, 
particularly the towns bordering on Lake Ontario. 

From the Falls on the Canada side to Queenston 
the distance is 7 miles, over a good road which passes 
the former residence of the Duke of Richmond, since 
owned by Sir Perregrine Maitland. Queenston lies on 
the bank of the Niagara, and has Uttle in its appear- 
ance indicating a prosperous or thriving village. 

The battle of Q,ueenston which was fought at this place, 
occurred on the 13th of Oct. 1812. Gen. Van Rens- 
selaer, who had command of the American troops at 
Lewiston, on the opposite side of the river, determined 
on crossing over and taking possession of Queenston 
heights. The crossing was effected before day light ; 
and the ascent, which was up a precipitous ravine, ri- 
sing nearly 300 feet above the river, was accomplished 
amid the fire of the enemy from his breast works on the 
heights. As the Americans approached, the British 
retreated to the village below ; where their comman- 
dant, Gen. Brock, in forming his lines to reascend the 
heights, was mortally wounded by a random shot. 
His aid, Col. M'Donald, then took command and as- 
cended the heights, where he was also wounded mor- 
tally. The Americans continued in possesion but a 
few hours, when they recrossed the river. The pickets 



278 brock's monument. 

and breast works, though in a state of decay, are still 
visible. 

The spot on which Brock fell is pointed out to stran- 
gers. It was in a small field, since called Brock's lot ; 
and is reserved for the erection of a church at a future 
period. 

BROCK'S MONUMENT 

Is on the heights, one fourth of a mile southwest of 
the village of Queenston. It is composed of free 
stone ; and, excepting the base, is of a spiral form. 
It is a fine specimen of architecture ; and from its ele- 
vation, is seen for a great many miles. Its height is 
126 feet ; and the heights on which it is erected, are 
270 feet above the level of the Niagara river. The as- 
cent to the top of the monument, is by means of wind- 
ing steps, 170 in number. It is extremely fatiguing; 
but the prospect aflforded of the surrounding country 
for 50 miles in extent, will richly repay a tourist for the 
time and trouble in visiting its pinnacle. The follow- 
ing inscription appears on the monument : 

" The Legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated 
this monument to the many civil and military services 
of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Commander of 
the most honoroble Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieut. 
Governor and Major General, commanding his Majes- 
ty's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th of 
October, 1812, honored and beloved by those whom he 
governed, and deplored by his Sovereign, to whose ser- 
vice his life had been devoted. His remains are depos- 
ited in this vault, as also his aid-de-camp, Lieut. Colo« 
nel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds the 14th 
of October, 1812, received the day before in action." 



I 



LEWISTON. 279 

Fort George, or Newark, is 7 miles north of 
Queenston, and is located at the entrance of the Niaga- 
ra river into Lake Ontario. The village was burnt du- 
the last war ; which event was followed by the burn- 
ing of several frontier villages on the American shore, 
as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is the 
most prominent, and perhaps the only object of interest 
presented. It is in a state of tolerable preservation, 
and has generally, since the war, been occupied as a 
garrison by a small number of soldiers. The river is 
crossed in a horse boat, to 

YouNGSTOwN, containing from 40 to 50 houses, one 
mile north of which, and directly opposite Newark, is 
Fort Niagara.* It was built by the French in 1725, 
passed into British hands by the conquest of Canada, 
and was surrendered to the U. States in 1796. It was 
taken by the British by surprise during the last war, 
and abandoned on the restoration of peace. The 
works are now in a state of decay. 

Lewiston is 7 miles south of Youngstown, and is 
du-ectly opposite the village of Queenston. It is locat- 
ed at the foot and termination of the Mountain Ridge, 
or alluvial way, (noticed hereafter,) and at the head of 
navigation on the Niagara liver. With the other fron- 
tier villages, it was laid in ruins during the late war, 
and was deserted by its inhabitants, from Dec. 1813, 
to April, 1815 ; but it is now in a flourishing condition, 
and its buildings exhibit much taste and neatness. A 



* This is tlie place wliere the celebrated William 
Morgan was confined after his abduction. 



280 LEVVISTON. 

ferry is established between this place and Queenston. 
While standing on the lofty bank, the rapid motion of 
the river, with its various eddies, are far from inviting, 
and seem to forbid the idea of a pleasant passage : 
but these sensations are removed soon after entering 
the boat. It is carried down for a considerable dis- 
tance with much rapidity, but without danger. — Every 
appearance confirms the supposition, that at this place 
the falls once poured their immense volumes of water, 
but by a constant abrasion of the cataract, have reced- 
ed to their present position, 7 miles distant. 

Stages leave Lewiston every morning at 4 o'clock 
for Rochester, distant 80 miles, passing on the Ridge 
Road, or alluvial way,* and reach Rochester at even- 



* This ridge extends along the south shore of Lake 
Ontario, from the Genesee river to Niagara river, a dis- 
tance of about 80 miles. The road is handsomely arch- 
ed in the centre, and is generally from 4 to 8 rods wide. 
In some places it is elevated 120 or 130 feet above the 
level of the lake, from which it is distant from 6 to 10 
miles. The first 40 miles from Lewiston, of this natur- 
al highway, is broken for a considerable extent, by log 
roads or causeways, bordered by impervious forests, 
occasionally relieved by the temporary huts of the re- 
cent settlers ; but the remaining distance is unusually 
level, and, with some intermissions, bordered by a line 
of cultivation. It is generally beheved that this was 
once the southern boundary of the lake, and that the 
ridge was occasioned by the action of the water. The 
gravel and smooth stones of which the ridge is com* 
posed, intermingled with a great variety of shells, leave 
little room to doubt the correctness of this opinion. It 
is a great natural curiosity, and should be travelled 
over by the tourist in going to or returning from the 
Falls. 



devil's hole. 281 

mg. Fare $3,25. Stages, also run to Lockport every 
day, distant 20 miles, passing through the Tuscarora 
village, occupied by a tribe of Indians of that name.* 

In pursuing the route from Lewiston to the Feills on 
the American side, the traveller soon begins to climb 
the height or mountain describing the difference of al- 
titude between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The ascent is 
somewhat precipitous, but is overcome without difficul- 
ty. At the distance of two miles, the top is gained, 
and affords an imposing prospect of the almost inter- 
minable expanse below. The course of the mighty 
Niagara is easily traced to its outlet ; where, from 
their prominence, are distinctly seen. Forts Niagara and 
George. The waters of the distant lake and the sur- 
rounding plains are so charmingly picturesque, that the 
traveller withdraws reluctantly, even to participate in 
the enjoyment of scenes more sublime. Three and a 
half miles from Lewiston is what is called the 

Devil's Hole, a most terrific gulph, formed by a 
chasm in the eastern bank of the Niagara, 150 or 200 
feet deep. An angle of this gulph is within a few feet 
of the road ; affording to the passing traveller, without 
alighting, an opportunity of looking into the yawning 



* Doct. Spafford, in his Gazetteer of New- York, re- 
marks, that this tribe came from N. Carolina about 
1712, and joined the confederacy of the Five Nations, 
themselves making the Sixth. They still hold an in- 
terest in a very large and valuable tract of land in N. 
Carolina, which will not be extinct before A. D. 1911. 
They also own a very considerable tract of land in this 
state, deeded to them by the Holland Company. 



282 LAKE ONTARIO. 

abyss beneath. During the French war, a detachment 
of the British army, while retreating from Schlosser in 
the night, before a superior force of French and Indians, 
were destroyed at this place. Officers, soldiers, wo- 
men and children, with their horses, waggons, bag- 
gage, &c. were all precipitated down the gulph. Those 
who were not drowned in the river were dashed in 
pieces on the naked rocks ! 

The Whirlpool is one mile farther south. It is 
formed by a short turn in the river, and can be viewed 
on either side ; though the best view, connected with 
the rapids, is on the American shore. One mile far- 
ther, is a 

Sulphur Spring, used principally for bathing. 
The American Fall at Manchester, is a mile and a 
half farther, and has been already noticed in this work. 

LAKE ONTARIO. 

This lake is in length 171 miles, and in circumference 
467. In many places its depth has not been ascertain- 
ed. In the middle a line of 350 fathoms has been let 
down without finding bottom. Of the many islands 
which this lake contains, the principal is Grand Isle, 
opposite to Kingston. At this place the lake is about 
10 miles in width, and from thence it gradually con- 
tracts until it reaches Brockville, a distance of about 
50 miles, where its width is not over 2 miles. About 40 
miles of this distance is filled with a continued cluster 
of small islands, which from their number have been 
distinguished by the name of the Thousand Islands. 

Though inferior in its extent to the remaining 4 great 
western lakes, Ontario is far from being the least inter- 



ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 283 

esting. The north-east shore of the lake consists prin- 
cipally of low land, and is in many places marshy. On 
the north and north-west it is more elevated, and grad- 
ually subsides towards the south. The margin of the 
lake is generally bordered by thick forests, through 
which are occasionally seen little settlements surround- 
ed with rich fields of cultivation, terminated by lofty 
ridges of land here and there assuming the character 
of mountains. Some of the highest elevations of land 
are the cliffs of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the Fif- 
ty Mile Hill. The principal rivers which empty into 
the lake on the south, are the Genesee and Oswego. 
York, Kingston and Sacket's Harbour, all situated on 
the borders of the lake, are well known in connexion 
with the history of the late war. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

By the present arrangement, the British steam 
boats leave Queenston for Prescott, on Lake Ontario, 
every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8 A. M. 
touching at York, Kingston and Brockville — fare $10. 
From Prescott a stage is taken for Cornwall, 50 miles ; 
from thence a steam boat to Coteau du Lac, 4 miles ; 
from thence a coach to the Cascades, 16 miles ; from 
thence a steam-boat to Lachine 24 miles ; and from 
thence a coach to Montreal, 9 miles. 

The American boat leaves Lewiston every Monday 
for Ogdensburgh, distant 268 miles, touching at Fort 
Niagara, Genesee river, Oswego, Sacket's Harbor, 
Cape Vincent, French creek and Morristown. From 
Ogdensburgh, a stage is generally taken for Montreal ; 
though passage boats, which descend as far as Lachine, 
are sometimes preferred. z 



284 CHARLOTTE — OSWEGO. 

From Lewiston to Montreal is 385 miles, and the 
intervening distances are estimated as follows : 

Miles. Miles. 



Fort Niagara, 7 

Genesee River, 74 

Great Sodus Bay, .... 35 

Oswego River, 28 

Sacket's Harbor, .... 40 

Cape Vincent, 20 

Morristown, 50 



Ogdensburgh, 12 

Gallop Islands, 5 

Hamilton, 19 

St. Regis, 35 

La Chine, 53 

Montreal, 7 



Fort Niagara, 7 miles from Lewiston. (See p. 279.) 
Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee river, 74 
miles from Lewiston, is a port of entry where there is 
a light-house, and the commencement of extensive 
piers building by the United States, for improving the 
navigation. The river is navigable to the Carthage 
falls,* 4 miles ; from thence to Rochester* is 2 miles ; 
to which place passengers can always be conveyed by 
stages in readiness on the arrival of the boat. 

Great Sodtts Bay, 35 miles. This embraces East, 
Port and Little Sodus Bays, and has three islands of 
considerable size. The whole circumference of the 
bay, with its coves and points, is about 15 miles. Its 
waters are deep and clear, and its shores have several 
elegant sites for buildings. 

Oswego, 28 miles. This village is situate at the 
mouth of the Oswego river ; and within a few years 
has rapidly increased in size and population. The 
falls in the river at this place afford extensive facilitie?^ 



+ For a description of these places, see pages 250 to 
255. 



racket's harbor MORRISTOWN. 285 

lor manufacturing operations ; added to which, what 
is called the Oswego canal here terminates, uniting 
with the Erie canal at Syracuse, 38 miles distant. An 
extensive pier has been recently erected here, affording 
a safe and beautiful harbor for boats and sloops. 

Forts Oswego and Ontario are at this place. The 
first was erected in 1727, and the latter in 1755. 
Both were besieged by Gen. Montcalm in 1756, with 
3000 troops and two vessels. Fort Ontario was soon 
evacuated by the English, which was followed by the 
surrender of Fort Oswego, with a large quantity of 
stores, cannon, two sloops and nearly 200 boats. The 
position, however, having been held a short time by 
the French, was abandoned. 

During the last war, the place was taken by the 
British, after a loss of about 100 men ; but was evac- 
uated immediately afterwards. 

Sacket's Harbor, 40 miles. This was an import- 
ant military and naval station during the last war. 
The Barracks are situate about 400 yards north-easter- 
ly of the village on the shore. They are a solid range 
of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of 
the place. Two forts erected during the war are now in 
ruins. On Navy-Point, which forms the harbor, there 
is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, proba- 
bly, will never be finished. 

Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston in Upper Can- 
ada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 11 miles distant, 
with Grand Island intervening. 

MoRRSTOwN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile 
and a quarter wide ; on the opposite side of which, 
is the village of Brockville. 



286 OGDENSBURGH. 

Ogdensburgh, which terminates the passage of the 
steam-boat, is 12 miles farther, and is situated on tlie 
east side of the Oswegatche river, at its confluence 
with the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving little village, 
containing about 200 houses, and a population of about 
1000 inhabitants. A military fortification, consisting 
of two stone buildings and a number of wooden bar- 
racks was formerly erected here by the British gov- 
ernment, but was ceded to the United States in 1796. 

A regular stage leaves Ogdensburgh three times a 
week for Plattsburgh ; from whence a steam-boat can 
be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or White- 
hall. 

Stages also arrive and depart every week, to and from 
Montreal ; and by crossing the river, a stage can be 
taken at Prescott for that place daily. Passage boats, 
also, leave Ogdensburgh about every day, and descend 
the river as far as La Chine, 7 miles above Montreal, 
in 3 days. The boats are usually furnished with every 
necessary implement for their good management, and 
with skilful pilots. The latter are more particularly re- 
quisite, as the current of the St. Lawrence is generally 
very rapid, and obstructed by numerous shoals and is- 
lands, which by an inexperienced navigator could not 
without difficulty be avoided. The principal rapids are 
three in number — the Longue Sault, the Rapids of the 
Cedars* and the Cascades of St. Louis. The first of 



*It was at this place that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 
300 men, coming to attack Canada, were lost. The 
French at Montreal received the first intelligence of 
the invasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. 



- GALLOP ISLANDS. 287 

these are 9 miles in length, and are usually passed in 20 
minutes, which is at the rate of 27 miles an hour. The 
rapids of the Cedars terminate about 3 miles from the 
Cascades, which, after a broken course of about 2 
miles, pour their foaming waters into Lake St. Louis, 
Lake St. Francis, on the St. Lawrence, is 25 miles long, 
and its greatest breadth 1 5. The borders of the lake 
are so low that they can scarcely be distinguished in 
passing along its centre. At the northern extremity of 
Lake St, Francis, on its south side, is situated the vil- 
lage of St. Regis, through which passes the boundary 
line between the Canadas and the United States. 

The banks of the St. Lawrence exhibit a country re- 
markably fertile, and in many places under good culti- 
vation. 

The first settlements in this region commenced in 
1783, and though scarcely 50 years have elapsed, it now 
exhibits many of the embellishments incident to a nu- 
merous population and successful improvement. The 
perpetual varying scenery along its banks, occasionally 
diversified with smiling fields and flourishing villages, 
together with the islands and rapids of the St. Law- 
rence, present a succession of novelties with which the 
traveller cannot fad to be gratified. 

Gallop Islands, 5 miles from Ogdensburgh. The 
river is here divided into two currents, the commence- 
ment of the great rapids below. From these rapids. 



The pilot who conducted their first batteaux commit- 
ted an error by running into the wrong channel, and 
the other batteau following close, all were involved in 
the same destruction. 

z2 



288 MONTREAL. 

the river descends 231 feet in 280 miles. On Staney 
Island, (one of the Gallop cluster,) the French had a 
strong fortress, which was taken and demolished by 
Gen. Amherst, in 1760. 

St. Regis, 54 miles, is a village occupied by a tribe of 
Indians of that name, who have a reservation of land 
here of considerable extent. One of their chiefs, aged 
about 90, remarked to a gentleman of our accquaint- 
ance a short time since, that he visited the High Rock 
Spring at Saratoga between 60 and 70 years ago, when 
the walcr flowed over the top of the aperture.* 

Lachine, 53 miles. From thence to Montreal, which 
is 7 miles farther, the river road is generally preferred ; 
from which a charming view of the rapids and of sever- 
al islands is enjoyed. It also crosses the Lachine ca- 
nal. 

MONTREAL 
Is situated on the south side of the island of the 
same name, 131 miles from Ogdensburgh, and 170 
from Quebec. The length of the island is 30 miles, its 
mean breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The 
city extends along the St. Lawrence, about 2 miles in 
length, and half a mile in width. The buildings are 
mostly constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly 
disposed but narrow streets. A stone wall formerly 
encircled the city, which, l)y the sanction of the gov- 



*No one living near the Spring remembers to have 
seen the water rise higher than within S or 10 inches of 
the top of the rock. At present it is considerably lower. 



MONTREAL. 289 

crnment, was some years ago totally demolished. 
Montreal is divided into the upper and lower towns. 
The latter of these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded 
in 1644, and under a superior and thirty nuns, whose 
occupation is to administer relief to the sick, who are 
received into that hospital. The French government 
formerly contributed to the support of this institution ; 
but since the revolution which occasioned the loss of 
its principal funds, then vested in Paris, its resources 
have been confined to the avails of some property in 
land. The upper town contains the Cathedral, the 
English Church, the Seminary, the Convent of Recol- 
lets, and that of the Sisters of Notre Dame. The 
general hospital, or Convent of the Grey Sisters, is sit- 
uated on the banks of the St. Lawrence, a little distance 
from the town, from wliich it is separated by a small riv- 
ulet. This institution was established in 1753, and is 
under the management of a superior and 19 nuns. 

Some of the public buildings are beautiful. Among 
these, the new Catholic Churchy in grandeur, capacious- 
ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by 
any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long, and 34 feet 
wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold 10,000 per- 
sons. 

J^elsoti's Monument, near the Market Place, is an ob- 
ject also meriting an accurate survey. 

The Museum belonging to the Society of Jstatural His- 
tory contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous and 
exotic specimens, an examination of which will prove 
highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. 



290 MONTREAL. 

A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected 
without difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some 
of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected. 
The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, 
and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to 
which is a beautiful garden. It generally contains 
about 300 students, and the terms of tuition are 80 dol- 
lars per annum. Connected with the college there is 
also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. 
The Parade is a beautiful public ground on which the 
troops are usually drilled. 

The prevailing religion here, as well as at Quebec, is 
the Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from 
grants of land made to them under the ancient regime, 
and from contributions ordained by the church. Be- 
sides these, a principal source of revenue is from the 
fines for alienation, which amoimt to about 8 per cent, 
paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the 
same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real es- 
tates in the seignory or island of Montreal. 

The city, including its subburbs, contains rising of 
30,000 inhabitants. 

The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes 
its name, rises about 2 1-2 miles distant. It is elevat- 
ed 700 feet above the level of the river, and extends 
from north to south 2 miles. This spot has already 
been selected for the residence of some private gentle- 
men, whose elegant white mansions appear beautiful 
in contrast with the surrounding foliage. The island 
of St. Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a de- 
lightful little spot, from whence is had a fine view of 
Montreal, with its lofty mountain in Uie back ground. 



FROM MONTREAL TO Q,UEBEC. 291 

the settlement of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Prairie 
de la Madalene, on the east side of the river, and the 
waters of the St. Lawrence, dashing over the rocks of 
La Chine, and sweeping their course around a variety 
of islands. 

The principal public houses in the city are, Masonic 
Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street j 
and Mansion-House, do. 

FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC— 170 miles. 

The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Quebec is navi- 
gated by a number of excellent steam-boats, and the 
passage between the two cities is delightful. A large 
majority of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowd- 
ed together near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and 
few interruptions of forrest land intervene in the whole 
distance between the two principal cities. The dwell- 
ings and cultivated grounds are so frequent and con- 
tinuous, that each side of the river, in fact, becomes al- 
most an unbroken street ; with groupes of houses in 
the vicinity of the several churches, which are erected 
generally in sight of the passing steam-boat, except on 
Lake St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine 
miles distant from each other, and upwards of twenty in 
number, forming, many of them, prominent objects to 
give embellishment and charm to the novel and otherwise 
very attractive scenery. All travelleres sleep one night 
at least on board the steam-boat while journeying be- 
tween the two cities j and it is recommended that they 
should arrange the hour of departure from Quebec, 
(which is always at low water) so that they may view 
f)y day-light that part of the river which had been be« 



-292 WILLIAM HENRY. 

fore passed in the night. A journey to Quebec and 
back again, which ten or twelve years since was the 
labor of some weeks, may now be accomplished, by 
means of steam-boats, in less than three days. The 
distance between the two cities is 170 miles. 

From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort 
on St. Helen's Island and soon enters the rapids of St. 
Mary ; in returning up which, steam-boats are often 
drawn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the vil- 
lages of Longueil, Longue Pointe, Vercheres, Varennes, 
Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur, Repentigny, St. Sal- 
pice, La Morage, Berthier and Machiche are succes- 
sively passed, before reaching the town of 

William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. 
It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, on 
the right bank of the river Sorel, at its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence. The present town was commenc- 
ed in 1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, cross- 
ing each other at right angles, leaving a space in the 
centre about 500 feet square. The number of dwell- 
ings does not exceeed 200, and its population 2000. 
Near the town is a seat which was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Governor General of Canada, during the 
summer months. Opposite the to^vn, the river Sorel 
is 250 yards broad, and is navigable for vessels of 150 
tons, for twelve or fourteen miles. On this river, 
which unites the waters of Lake Champlain with the 
St. Lawrence, are two considerable forts, the one at 
St. John's and the other at Chambly. Sorel was occu- 
pied in May, 1776, by a part of the American army, 
under General Thomas, on their retreat from Quebec. 



THREE RIVERS. 293 

Lake St. Peler, some miles below the town of Sorei, 
is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, to 
15 or 20 miles in width, and 21 in length. The wa- 
ters of the lake have but little current, and are from 8 
to 1 1 feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a varie- 
ty of small islands are interspersed, which are the on- 
ly ones that occur in the St. Lawrence till you reach the 
island of Orleans, a distance of 117 miles. On the 
north side of this lake is the town of 

Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, 
%vhichis divided by two small islands into three branch- 
es. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial 
Government, and is now considered the third in im- 
portance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, 
including a Roman Catholic and an Episcopal church, 
and a Convent of UrsUlines — also the barracks former- 
ly occupied by the governor, during the French regime. 
The number of inhabitants is estimated at 3000. Some 
miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of 
Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet 
descent. 

Seven miles below Three Rivers, the Richelieu rapids 
commence. The river is compressed within less than 
half a mile in width, and the water moves with great 
velocity for three or four miles ; but being deep and 
the current unbroken, except at the shores, the descent 
is made by steam-boats without danger, except in the 
the night, when a descent is never attempted. 

The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally re- 
lieved by the prospect of the distant mountains, the 
highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising 
in the back ground of the cultivated vales along the 



294 QUEBEC. 

borders of the river, give an additional degtee of beauty 
and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alternate 
variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now repos- 
ing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, and 
now rushing with the rapidity of a cataract, added to 
the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford an 
agreeable repast to the tourist, until he reaches the 
classic scenes of Quebec. Soon after leaving Cape 
Rouge and the little village of St. Nicholas, near the 
mouth of the Chaudiere river, the towers and citadel of 
this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 
345 feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the 
gem-like quality of the chrystals which are found in- 
termingled with the granite beneath its surface. In 
approaching the city, you pass Sillery River and Cove> 
and Wolfe's Cove, where he landed his army to gain 
the heights of Abraham, about 1 1-2 miles from Que- 
bec. Point Levi appears on the right, a rocky preci- 
pice, covered with white dwellings, and commanding 
the citadel of Quebec from the opposite shore. 

QUEBEC* 

Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, 
at the confluence of the Rivers St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles, the junction of which forms a capacious and 
beautiful bay and harbour. 

From the New Exchange at the extremity of the 
point on the north-east, the limits of the city jurisdic- 



* For a description of this place, the editor is princi- 
pally indebted to a valuable work, entitled " The Pic- 
ture of Quebec," pubhshcd in that city in 1829. 



Q.UEBEC. 295 

tion extend in a direct line about north-west to a bend 
in the St. Charles River, near the General Hospital. 
On the St. Lawrence River the south-west point of the 
Banlieu is about equi-distant from the Exchange, the 
whole plat approximating to a triangle, the longest 
side of which passes a short distance to the west of the 
Martello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs 
or 2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. 

A straight line drawn from one river to the other, at 
the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than 
a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and 
three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the 
Esplanade, the different large gardens, and other va- 
cant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior 
area within the fortificaiion remains unoccupied for 
buildings. 

The city and environs are thus subdivided : That 
part which is within the walls is called the Upper 
Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On 
the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, 
there is only one avenue to enter it, by a circuitous 
steep hill, through Prescott Gate ; which is the chief 
thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the 
port, especially during the navigable season, and then 
Mountain street, as this route is named, presents the 
appearance of a crowded and active population. On 
the north of the city, and where the promontory has 
considerably declined in height, there -are two entran- 
ces — Hope Gate, not far from the eastern extremity of 
the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armoury 
and the Artillery Barracks. These gates are on that 
side of the city which is washed by the St. Charles. 

AA 



296 QUEBEC. 

From the land there are two avenues to the interior of 
the fortifications : that to the east is known as the St. 
Louis Gate, which conducts by a beautiful road to the 
Plains of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John 
street, and thence denominated St.John's Gate. This 
is the route through which the chief part of the country 
trade passes. 

The long street from the termination of the Banlieu 
on the south-west, upon the St. Lawrence, skirting the 
Cape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the Gov- 
ernment, including Mountain street to the Prescott 
Gate, and all the other shorter streets between the hill 
and the river, are generally denominated the Lower 
Town. The portion between the road outside of the 
Gates of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the 
line of the Banlieu, is called the suburbs of St. Louis. 
From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Gene- 
vieve, and returning to the end of the Banlieu, all the 
buildings are included in the St. John suburbs ; and 
the large district extending from the Wood Yard along 
by the foot of the hill to the western extremity of the 
Banlieu, and bounded on the north-west by the St. 
Charles River, bears the appellation of the suburbs of 
St. Roch. 

As travellers are generally restricted to time, they 
have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a 
directory or guide, by which they might with the great- 
est facility view the most important objects, and also 
from not having previously obtained a letter of intro- 
duction to some respectable citizen who would ac- 
company them in their explorations. To remove these 
obstacles, the following methodical plan of an excur- 



quEBEc. 297 

sion through the city, and the accompanying descrip- 
tions are given. They will be found to be accurate, 
and will save the tourist from innumerable perplexities, 
to which he would otherwise be subjected. 

Taking the Upper Town Market-House as the place 
of departure, the observer has on the west the ancient 
Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Barracks 
for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious quad- 
rangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a wall 
which measures on the north the whole length of Fab- 
rique street, and more than 200 yards on St. Anne st. 
The area enclosed, and which now is appropriated for 
the parades and exercise of the troops, was formerly 
an elegant garden. Fronting on the east side of Mark- 
et-Place is the principal 

Roman Catholic Church, which is open nearly the 
whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornament- 
ed and spacious stone building. From the vestibule, 
the body of the interior is subdivided into equal pro- 
portions. At the termination of the nave is the grand 
altar in the middle of the ellipse constituting the sanc- 
tum, the walls of which are ornamented with represen- 
tations and figures, commingled with various other 
graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the con- 
ception — the Apostle Paul in his extatic vision — the 
Saviour ministered unto by angels — the flight of Jo- 
seph and Mary — the Redeemer on the cross — the na- 
tivity of Christ — the Saviour under the contumelious 
outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pentecost — and the 
Holy Family. During the siege of Quebec, in 1759, this 
church was set on fire by shells discharged from a bat- 
tery on Point Levi, and all the paintings and ornaments 



298 QUEBEC. 

consumed except the first above mentioned, which was 
afterwards found among the ruins. The avenue north 
of the church conducts the tourist to 

The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, 
in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a 
large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about 
seven acres. This institution was established in 1663, 
and was originally designed for the education of eccle- 
siastics ; but this exclusive system was long since a- 
bandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all 
who comply with its regulations. Attached to the 
Seminary is a museum of natural curiosities ; and on 
the left of the grand enterance from Market-Place is 
the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great varie- 
ty of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can pro- 
ceed to the church ; and from thence to the 

Place d'ArmeSf where, on the east of the Pentagon is 
the Castle of St. Lewis, the residence of the Governor, 
and which, from its peculiar situation, constitutes one of 
the principal objects of notice in all views of the city, 
from Beaufort easterly to the Chaudiere. At its base, 
the rock is nearly 200 feet in perpendicular height, 
and the building on the east is sustained by strong 
stone buttresses, on which is laid a wide balcony ex- 
tending along the whole length, and whence the beau- 
ties of the northern and eastern landscape are beheld. 
The building is three stories high, and about 160 feet 
long ; and attached to it are several buildings contain- 
ing the public offices. On the west corner of the 
Place d'Armes stood the Episcopal church, which has 
been lately burnt. On the south f?ide, and nearly ad- 
joining, is the 



aUEEEC. 299 

Court House, a plain neat building of stone about 140 
feet long, and as many broad. It stands where once 
stood a church belonging to the order of the RecoUets, 
which was burnt in 1796. 

On the corner of Fort street, south of the castle of 
St. Lewis, is a large building used for public offices, the 
front room of which, on the first story, contains the 
Museum of the " Society for promoting Literature, Sci- 
ence, Arts and Historical research in Canada." A visit 
to it will prove extremely interesting. Crossing the 
Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres street, the visitor will 
next inspect the 

Monumejit, erected in memory of Wolfe and Mont- 
calm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmount- 
ed by a vignette of graphic delineation. The base is a- 
bout 6 by 5 feet, and the whole height of the monument 
is sixty-five feet. It contains two Latin inscriptions. 
After viewing from the promenade at the exterior of 
the Governor's quarters the beauteous landscape di- 
verging to the north-east, the visitor will return to St. 
Lewis street, where, after passing the office of the 
Commissariat, he will turn by Parloir street to the 

Ursidine J^unnery and Church. This Nunnery and 
the land adjoining it occupy a space of about seven a- 
cres which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. 
The institution was founded in 1639, and the edifice, 
which is of stone, is two stories high, 114 feet long, 
and about 40 broad. At the cast projection is the 
chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the 
interior of which is highly decorated. The convent is 
neat, and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 nov- 
ices, the chief employment of whom is the tuition of a 
aa2 



300 QUEBEC. 

lar£^o nnmbev of c:nls in common knowledge and other 
qualifications. They are more rigid and retired than 
the inmates of any other conventual institution in Can- 
ada. Persons of distinction only are permitted to ex- 
amine the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, 
whose apartment!! are on the right of the entrance, per- 
mits strangers to examine the church on application 
to him. Among the paintings there exhibited, are the 
portraits of some of the Popes — the birth of Immanuel 
— the Saviour exhibiting his heart to the Religieuses — 
the Saviour taken down from the cross — a cargo of 
Christians captured by the Algerines — Louis xiii of 
France — and several devices taken from the scriptures. 
The altars are highly ornamented and imposing. 

Leaving the nunnery, the visitor will next proceed by 
Anne street, with the south wing of the barracks on 
his right to the Presbyterian church. Passing its front 
he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues 
his course to the 

Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and 
no other mode of visiting the fortification, he should 
turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the mili- 
tary offices request from the adjutant general a card of 
admission to walk round the interior of the 

Citadel. This stupendous fortress circumscribes the 
whole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and 
is intended not only to accommodate the garrison as a 
residence, parade, &c. but also to include all the mate- 
riel of war. It perfectly commands the city and river 
St. Lawrence ; and when completed will be not only 
the most powerful specimen of military architecttire on 
the western continent, but also a rival of many of the 



(QUEBEC. 301 

renowned works in the Netherlands. All attempts to 
describe the Citadel in its present unfinished state 
would be nugatory. 

Having entered the grand western gate, where the 
visitor leaves his ticket with the soldier on guard, and 
examined the edifice, he will first proceed round the 
course of the Citadel to the flag staff" and telegraph ; 
thence southerly by the parapet bordering on the riv- 
er to the machinery at the head of the rail- way, or in- 
clined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from 
the wharf to the Cape, where its perpendicular eleva- 
tion is 345 feet above the stream. This rail-way is 
used by the government alone, to convey stones and 
other articles of great weight and bulk, for the erection 
of the new fortress. 

Having surveyed from the highest point the majes- 
tic scene, in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, 
land and water, the visitor will follow the course of 
the wall on his left hand, until he returns to the same 
gate, and pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate 
along the Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the 
church of the Congreganistes, immediately below which 
is the national school house. 

Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north 
of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands 
Trinity chapel, whence, crossing Carlcton street, he 
arrives at the artillery barracks and the armoury — the 
latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the 
city be in company. 

Opposite the armoury is the anatomical room of the 
medical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on 
the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chas- 



30ll QUEBEC. 

seur's natural museum. Returning into Palace street, 
the visitor crosses obliquely above to Collins' Lane, in 
which stands on the left, the 

Chapel of the Hotel Dieu. These premises include a 
large proportion of the northern part of the interior of 
the city — commencing from the gate of the burial 
ground on Couillard street, and extending to Palace 
street, with a wall on the north, parallel to the fortifi- 
cations ; the whole space occupying about twelve 
acres. This institution was commenced in 1637, under 
the auspices of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was con- 
secrated to the reception and care of the sick, who are 
indigent and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the 
longest portion of which extends nearly one hundred 
and thirty yards by seventeen in depth, and three sto- 
ries high. On the north-west side from the centre, a 
range is erected two stories high, fifty yards in length, 
and nearly as many feet broad, plain and unadorned. 
This wing is appropriated for the patients ; the upper 
story of which is occupied by the females. All proper 
attendance both from the nuns and physicians, witJ^ 
every necessary comfort, is gratuitously administered. 

In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now in 
elude the superieure, thirty-three religeuses professes 
two novices and one postulante. The regularity 
neatness and purity with which the establishment i: 
conducted, and the solace of the wretched who fine, 
refuge in this hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. 

The church of the Hotel Dieu, externally, is perfect- 
ly plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paint- 
ings may be examined upon application to the chaplain. 



Q,UEBEC. 303 

Having completed an examination of the Hotel 
Dieu, with the sun'ounding garden, the visitor may 
next follow Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's 
streets to the Grand Battery and the ancient palace of 
the Catholic bishop, now used by the provincial parlia- 
ment ; or he can return to Palace street, and continue 
his progress to the gate, where, by passing the guard 
house and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accu- 
rately understand the nature of the defence which the 
city can make against external assault. 

The first house at which he arrives is distinguished 
as the residence of the renowned Montcalm. There 
he may turn to the right which will lead him to Couil- 
lard street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope 
Gate, until he arrives at the Look-out from the north- 
east platform of the battery. 

In the lower town, the only objects which merit no- 
tice, besides the inclined plane or rail-way to the Cita- 
del, are the Exchange reading room, and the Quebec 
library, which are always open for the admission of 
strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of 
inspection. 

About one hundred yards from the lower end of the 
rail-way, General Montgomery and his aids with 
other men were killed on the morning of December 31, 
1775, when proceeding to the assault of Quebec. The 
place may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the 
alterations which have occurred. At that period, a 
narrow path only was made between the foot of the 
hill and the river, so that vessels were fastened to the 
rock by large iron bolts, one of which still remains, 
near the very spot where the American General and 



P 



S04 JiUEBEC — PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 

his advanced party were discomfited. The wharves, 
houses, &C. all have been long since constructed. At 
the top of the small ascent on the street immediately 
below, the small battery had been erected, near the 
plat where the southerly forge is now stationed. As 
Montgomery led on the attack, the British retreated 
before him. In passing round Cape Diamond, the ice 
and projecting rocks rendered it necessary for the 
Americans to press forward in a narrow file, until they 
arrived at the block house and picket. The General 
was liimself in front, and assisted with his own hands 
to cut down and pull up the picket. The roughness of 
the %\'ay had so lengthened his line of march, that he 
was obliged to wait for a force to come up before he 
could proceed. Having re-assembled about 200 men, 
he advanced boldly and rapidly at their head to force 
tlie barrier. One or two of the enemy had by this time 
ventured to return to the battery, and seeing a match 
standing by one of the guns, touched it off*, when the 
American force was within 40 paces of it. This single 
and accidental fire struck down General Montgomery 
and his aids, Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman, 
The remains of Montgomery were interred by a sol- 
dier of the name of Thompson within a wall that sur- 
rounded a powder magazine near the ramparts bound- 
ing on St. Lewis' gate ; and in 1818 were removed to 
New- York, where they were deposited beneath a mon- 
ument in front of St. Paul's church. 

The Plains of Abraham lie south and west of Que- 
bec. The visitor, on leaving St. Louis gate, should turn 
up the stairs to the Glacis, continue his course under 
the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the 



PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 305 

termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to 
the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. 
The large house at a distance in the front is erected on 
the site of a French redoubt, which defended the as- 
cent from Wolfe's Cove, and was the primary object of 
assault and capture, after the top of the hill had been 
gained by the British troops. The precipice at the 
Cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projec- 
tions of rocks and trees, seemed to be rendered almost 
inaccessible. General Wolfe, however, with unparal- 
leled fortitude, led the way in the night (Sept. 12, 175^) 
through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, 
which, with the assistance of boughs and stumps, ena- 
bled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, 
by day-light the next morning, they were formed in 
line of battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. 

General Montcalm, on receiving information that 
the British had possession of the heights, broke up his 
camp at Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and 
at about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the at- 
tack. After a desperate struggle of about two hours, 
in which both commanders had been mortally wound- 
ed, the French gave way, and left the field in the pos- 
session of the victors. 

Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the 
victory. He was wounded in the early part of the 
engagement by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by 
a ball which passed through his groin — and it was 
not until a third had pierced his breast, that he suffer- 
ed himself to be carried from the field. " I die hap- 
py," was his exclamation, when in the arms of death 
he heard thejoyful shouts of victory. 



306 FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 

The Martello Totoers, consisting of four circular forts, 
are situated at the northern extremity of the Plains of 
Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior 
grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered 
from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, 
and guard the approaches to the city on the south and 
west. They are nearly 40 feet in height, with a base 
diameter almost equal ; and the exterior wall is of am- 
ple strength to resist a cannonade. 

The Falls of Montmorenci, are situated about 8 
miles north-east of Quebec, on the river of the same 
name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These 
falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in 
height, and may almost compare in beauty and gran- 
deur with the cataract of Niagara. 

The effect from the summit of the cliff is awfully 
grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the de- 
scent of the waters of this surprising fall ; the bright- 
ness and volubility of their course ; the swiftness of 
their movement through the air ; and the loud and hol- 
low noise emitted from the basin, swelling with inces- 
sant agitation from the weight of the dashing waters, 
forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to im- 
press the mind of the spectator with sentiments of gran- 
deur and elevation. The breadth of the fall is 100 feet ; 
and the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms 
an angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the 
beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to 
flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which 
is crowded with woods. The diffusion of the stream, 
to the breadth of 1500 feet, and the various smedl cas- 
cades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on 



FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 307 

its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very gincmlar 
and pleasing combination. 

Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected 
during the French war are still to be seen near the 
falls. A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 
1759, on the precipice north-east of the falls, is yet vis- 
ible. The French occupied the opposite bank ; and 
Wolfe attempted to storm their works by fording the 
river below the falls and ascending the heights. With- 
out forming in a regular manner, and without waiting 
for additional reinforcements which were on their way 
from Point Levi, Wolfe's men rashly ascended the hill, 
eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French 
artillery and musquetry, and obliged to retreat. The 
English loss was about 500 ; while that of the French 
was trifling. A storm coming on, further attempts to 
dislodge the French were abandoned. The British 
afterwards ascended the river, and the action on the 
Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, 
took place in the month of September following. 

There are three points which afford the best views of 
the Falls. 1. From the upper window of the mill, 
whence the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having 
crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow of 
the hill, until he arrives nearly in front of the whole 
cataract, from this summit, the view, with the con- 
comitant circumstances, inspire commingled emotions 
of awe, terror and [astonishment. From the same 
spot, there is a lucid and beauteous propect of Quebec, 
, with its encircling scenery ; and with an ordinary mag- 
nifying glass, the observer can discern all the promi- 
nent objects — the steeples, towers, fortifications, prin- 

BB 



FALLS OF MONTMORENCL 

cipal edifices, the shipping, the course of the St. Law- 
rence, until it is lost among the hills — Point Levi and 
its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — 
the point of Ange Gardien — and the shores of the river 
as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor de- 
scends the hill, and pursuing its course to the right, he 
may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts 
the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the 
chasm. In the view from below, ' the most vivid im- 
pressions of this gorgeous cascade are produced ; and 
travellers who do not thus survey the Falls, can form 
only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently chang- 
ing effect. 

At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan- 
nel of the river is contracted between high vertical 
rocks, and the water rushes with porpotionate velocity. 
In one part at about half a mile from the bridge, cas- 
cades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to 
two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated 
the J^atural Steps, which appear to have been formed 
by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melt- 
ing of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the 
flood. Many of these steps are so regular, that they 
almost develope the process of human art. The 
perpendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — 
the tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appear- 
ance, resembli'.ig an ancient castle wall in ruins — the 
precipices on the western bank — and the foaming noi- 
sy current portray a romantic wildness, which is very 
attractive. Observers are amply reijiunorated for their 
walk, as conjoined with this interesting object, they 
witness the continuous descent and the accelerating 
force and celerity with which the river ia propelled to 



LORETTK — CHAUDIERE FALLS. 309 

the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Law- 
rence. 

LoRETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the 
city, can be taken in the route to or from the Falls of 
Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, 
whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable 
landscape, in many points similar to that from Cape 
Diamond, but also including some attractive novelties 
of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of 
Quebec and its suburbs, and in its extent, it is bounded 
solely by the distant southern mountains. The Indi- 
an inhabitants of the village retain many of the promi- 
nent characteristics of the aboriginal reamers of the 
forest, combined with vicious habits contracted by 
their proximity to a large sea-port, and their inter- 
course with its migratory population. At this village 
is a very charming view of the river St. Charles tumb- 
ling and foaming over the rocks and ledges to a great 
depth. The rugged and perpendicularly elevated woody 
cliffs in connection with the impetuous rush of the 
waters, although circumscribed in extent, and there- 
fore affording no expanded prospect in immediate front, 
yet as seen from the Saw-Mill, and from the bank and 
the bridge at the head of the dell, in its different posi- 
tions and aspects, constitute an object, which, when 
contrasted with the more majestic cataracts of Mont- 
morenci and the Chaudiere, or recollected in combina- 
tion with them, furnishes in memorial an addition to 
the varieties which those stupendous natural curiosi- 
ties embody. ' 

The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land or 
water. The former is generally preferred, the distance 



310 CHAUDIERE FALLS. 

to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles from 
Quebec. From thence visitors can cross at the ferry 
and take an indirect path to the west bank of the river, 
or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance north 
of the Chaudiere, and arrive within a short walk of the 
falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cascade is 
much compressed, being only about 400 feet across ; 
and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually termed, is 
about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the stream, precise- 
ly at the fall, into three chief currents, of which the 
westerly is the largest — these partially re-unite before 
their broken and agitated waves are received into the 
basin ; where each dashing against the other maintains 
a turbulent whirlpool. The form of the rock forces a 
part of the waters into an obhque direction, advancing 
them beyond the line of the precipice, while the cavi- 
ties in the rocks increase the foaming fury of the revolv- 
ing waters in their descent, displaying globular figures 
of brilliant whiteness, which are richly contrasted with 
the encircling dark and gloomy cliffs, while the ascend- 
ing spray developes all the variety of the coloured clou- 
dy arch, and enlivens the beauty of the landscape. 
The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhang- 
ing woods, the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness 
and the deeply solemn sound of the cataracts, all com- 
bining to present a rich assemblage of objects highly 
attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from 
the wood, is instantaneously surprised by the delight- 
ful scene. Below, the view is greatly changed, and 
the falls produce an additional strong and vivid impres- 
sion. If strangers only view the falls from one side of 



FROM MONTREAL TO WHITEHALL- 311 

the river, the prospect from the eastern shore is recom- 
mended as preferable. 

The Montmorenci and Chaudiere Falls, the village 
of Loretto and Lake St. Charles, together with the 
scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island 6 miles down the 
St. Lawrence, Beaufort and Point Levi, will always af- 
ford interesting excursions to the tourist at Quebec. 

FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL, 

In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- 
marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an 
hour as to give him a chance of viewing by day-light 
on the river the scenery which, in descending, was pass- 
ed in the night. 

The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is 
extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city cloth- 
ed in a rich and unbroken foliage, the numerous adja- 
cent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city 
and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in 
presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and 
one that will not be easily effaced from the memory. 
[For a description of Montreal^ see p. 288.] 

FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL, 

Is 181 miles, and the intervening distances are as 
follows : 



* At Montreal a stage can be taken twice a week for 
Danville, Vt. distant 100 miles ; from thence to the 
Notch in the White Mountains, 28 miles ; from thence 
to Concord, N. H. 75 miles ; and from thence to Bos- 
ton, 68 miles. The whole route is performed in four 
days. [For a description of the White Mountains^ see 
page 334.] bb2 



312 CHAMBLY — ST. JOHNS, 



Miles. 

Burlington, 11 

Split Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin Harbor, 12 

Crown Point, 12 

Ticonderoga, 15 

Whitehall, 24 



JMUes. 

Longueil, 2 

Chambly, 13 

St. Johns, 12 

IsIeAuxNoix, 14 

Rouse's Point, 10 

Chazy, 12 

Plattsburgh, 15 

Part Kent, 15 

From Montreal the St. Lawrence is crossed in a 
horse boat to Longueil,* a distance of two miles. Af- 
ter leaving Longueil, the country becomes remarkably 
level, until you reach 

Chambly, 13 miles distant. This is a considerable 
town, on the river Sorel, containing extensive barracks 
and some troops. In the vicinity is High Mountain, 
which confines between its conical summits a lake of 
pure water. The fort is built of stone, in a quadran- 
gular form, and resembles in its appearance an ancient 
castle. From this place the road follows the river, un- 
til you arrive at 

St. Johns, a distance of 12 miles. This place was 
an important post during the French and Revolutionary 
wars. In the latter it was taken, after a gallant de- 
fence, by General Montgomery, as was also Chambly. 
It contains, at present, about 100 houses and 800 in- 
habitants. Though a place of considerable business, 
it possesses nothing in its appearance or accommoda- 



+The route may be varied so as to pass through La 
Prairie, a village of about 200 houses, and the sfrand 
thoroughfare for trade between Montreal and St. Johns, 
though the route through Longueil is considered pre- 
ferable. 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN — ISLE AUX NOIX. .313 

tions inviting to a stranger. Heretofore steam-boats 
have left St. Johns for Whitehall only twice a week j 
bat as there are now three on the Lake, it is probable 
that a passage may hereafter be taken as often as eve- 
ry other day. The boats touch at all the intermediate 
places ; and the fare through is $6. Proportionate de- 
ductions are made for the intermediate distances. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 

Forms part of the boundary line between the states 
of New- York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, and 
its greatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the 
lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed 
from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly 
at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering 
the territories of the United States, the country is more 
populous, and under a better state of improvement. 
The villages seen from the lake all exliibit a cheerful 
and thriving appearance. The lake properly termi- 
nates at Mount Independence ; from whence to White- 
hall, a distance of 30 miles, it assumes the appearance 
of a river, in which little more than room is left, at any 
point, to turn the boat. The history of Champlain in- 
volves many interesting events associated with the 
French and Revolutionary wars. During those periods 
several fortifications were constructed, which have 
since undergone some repairs, but are now in a state of 
decay. The ruins of the ancient fortresses at Ticonde- 
roga and Crown Point are still visible. 

Isle aux Noix, 14 miles from St Johns. This is a 
strong military and naval post possessed by the En- 
glish. The works arc generally in good preservation ; 



314. PLATXSBURGH. 

and are occupied by a small military corps. In the ex« 
pedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Gen- 
erals Schuyler and Montgomery went down the lake 
in rafts and landed at this island , from whence they 
proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under 
Gen. Arnold, marched by land through the present 
state of Maine, (then a wilderness) to Quebec. 

Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, 
and 10 miles from the Isle aux Noix, contains strong 
stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but 
which, by the decision of the commissioners appointed 
to settle the boundary Une between the American and 
British g^overnments, fell within the territories of the 
latter. 

The Village of Plattsburgh, 27 miles farther, is 
handsomely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains 
about 300 dwelUngs, besides the court-house and prison 
for the county. The number of inhabitants is about 
1500. Tliis place is rendered celebrated by the briUiant 
victory of M'Donough and Macomb, over the British 
land and naval forces under Sir George Prevost and 
Commodore Downie. The naval engagement took 
place in front of the village, which overlooks the ex- 
tensive Bay of Plattsburgh for several miles. Here the 
American Commodore waited at anchor the arrival of 
the British fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland 
Head, about 8 in the morning of the 11th of September, 
1314. The first gun from the fleet was the signal for 
commencing the attack on land. Sir George Prevost, 
with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defences 



PLATTSBURGH. 315 

of the town, whilst the battle raged with increasing ar- 
dor between the fleets, then contending in full view of 
the respective armies. General Macomb, with his gal- 
lant little army, consisting of about 3000 men, mostly 
undisciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, 
until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of 
two hours, obliged him to retire, with the loss of 2500 
men, together with considerable baggage and ammuni- 
tion. The American force on the lake consisted of 86 
guns, and 820 men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 
guns, and 1050 men. Thus ended the affair at Platts- 
burgh, 'no less honorable to American valor than dero- 
gatory to the British arms. Commodore Downie was 
killed in the engagement. He was represented as a 
brave and skilful officer ; but was opposed to the meth- 
od of attack on the American flotilla. Both fleets are 
now dismantled, and moored at Whitehall. 

A monument erected to the memory of Commodore 
Downie, in the church-yard at Plattsburgh, contains the 
following inscription : 

" Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. 
A Post-Captain in the Royal British Navy, who glori- 
ously fell on board his B. M. S. the Confiance, while 
leading the vessels under his command to the attack 
of the American flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, 
off Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark 
the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sin- 
cere friend were honorably interred, this stone has been 
erected by his aflectionate sister-in-law Mary Downie.'* 

The remains of a number of officers of both armies, 
who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commo- 
dore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and 



816 PLATTSBURGH — PORT KENT. 

with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their 
interment. East of Downie are five graves, occurring 
in the following order: Commencing south — Capt. 
Copeland, an American officer — Lieut. Stansbury, of 
the American navy — Lieut. Runk, of the American ar- 
my — Lieut. Gamble, of the American navy — and a Brit- 
ish Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the 
remains of the British Lt. Col. Wellington — on the south, 
two British Lieutenants — on the west Capt. Purchase 
and four other officers, three of whom were British. 

The traveller will find many objects of interest at 
Plattsburg-h, which will warrant his continuance there 
for one or two days. A short distance from the village 
are the cantonement and breast works occupied by 
Gen. Macomb and his troops during the last war. A 
mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen Pro- 
vost as his head-quarters during the siege in 1814 ; 
between which and the village, the marks of cannon- 
shot on trees and other objects, are still visible. Far- 
ther onward, about 5 miles, on a hill overlooking the 
village of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a 
sanguinary engagement took place, between the A- 
merican and British troops, which resulted in the death 
of the British Col. WelUngton, and several men of both 
armies. Col. W. was killed in the centre of the road, 
about equa-distant from the summit and foot of the hill. 

JSP DonougW s Farm, granted by the legislature of Ver- 
mont, Ues on Cumberland Head, nearly east of Platts- 
burgh ; a ride to which, around the bay, in the warm 
season, is refreshing and delightful. 

Port Kent, 15 miles from Plattsburgh, is a spot 
seleelcd on the lake shore for a new town or villago, 



ADGAffi's PALLS — HIGH BRIDGE. 31 7 

17 miles southerly of Plattburgh by land, and 15 miles 
by water. There are a few buildings, and a wharf erect- 
ed, at which passengers are landed from the steam- 
boat. From this place may be seen, on the north, the 
Isle La Mott, 26 miles distant. Grand Island, the Two 
Sisters, Point La Roche, Cumberland Head, and Bel- 
core and Macomb's Islands ; on the east. Stave, Pro- 
vidence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont ; on the south the vil- 
lage of Burlington, about 11 miles distant, with the 
high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the whole form- 
a most delightful and pleasant landscape not excelled 
at any other point of the lake passage. Three miles 
west from Port Kent, are the celebrated 

Adgate's Falls. They are situated on the river 
A'Sable, and take their name from a person residing 
there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mills 
in the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 
80 feet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, 
the banks of which consist of rock, rising perpendicu- 
larly to the height of from 60 to 100 feet. At what is 
called the 

High Bridge, about half a mile below the falls, the 
channel is narrowed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks 
here, whicli are per{)endicular, is 93 feet, and the water 
ter 35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once 
erected, by throwing timbers across ; but it is now 
principally in decay. The sensations produced on look- 
ing into this gulf are terrific, and the stoutest heart in- 
voluntarily shrinks from the contemplation. There is 
an indifferent road from the falls to the High Bridge, 
but with this exception the spot is yet a wilderness. 



318 SPLIT ROCK — CROWN POINT. 

Burlington, is situated on the east side of Lake 
Champlain, about 24 miles south-east of Plattsburgh. 
This is one of those beautiful villages which so often 
attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England 
states. The ground rises with a moderate ascent from 
the lake, and presents a slope covered with handsome 
houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, 
which is 330 feet above the level of the lake, stands the 
University of Vermont. This summit commands a noble 
view of the lake, and the adjacent country, for many 
miles. There are here 250 houses and stores, besides 
a bank, court-house, jail, and two churches.* About 
12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Willsborough, 
(N. Y.) is what is called the 

Split Rock. This curiosity is a part of a rocky 
promontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, 
about 1 50 feet, and elevated above the level of the wa- 
ter about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about 
half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from 
the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides ex- 
actly fit each other — the prominences in the one cor- 
responding with the cavities in the other. Through 
this fissure a line has been let down to the depth of 500 
feet, without finding bottom. 

Crown Point, is situated 36 miles from Burlington, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by 
an extensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep 



♦Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently take 
a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed at 
page 330. 



TICONDEROGA — SOUTH AND EAST BAYS. 319 

mountain, and on the north and east by the body of 
the lake. The elevated plain was first occupied by 
the French, in 1731, as a military position, and aban- 
doned by them in 1759, when General Amherst took 
possession of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins 
of this fort may still be traced, being situated directly 
opposite to Chimney Point on the south side of the 
bay. After the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a 
subaltern and a mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by 
accident sometime previous to the American Revolu- 
tion. In 1775 it fell into the hands of the Americans, 
and was afterwards evacuated by them, on the advance 
of Burgoyne, in 1776. A few years since a number of 
British guineas were found here, from the accidental 
crumbling of the earth from the banks, where they had 
been deposited. 

TicoNDEROGA, which has already been noticed, {see 
p. 196,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown-Point, and 
24 miles north of Whitehall. 

One mile from Ticonderoga, is Mount Indepen- 
dence, on the east side of the lake ; near the foot of 
which, the remains of a small battery are still to be 
seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery was 
on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. 

Nine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four 
narrow channels, bounded on the west and east by lof- 
ty mountains. 

South and East Bats are soon reached, each of 

about five miles in extent. The former was taken by 

Gen. Dieskau and his army, in their route towards 

Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to White- 

cc 



320 WHITEHALL — NORTHERN CANAL. 

hall, the passage is extremely narrow and of a ser- 
pentine course, and cannot be pursued in safety dur- 
ing a dark night. 

Whitehall, terminates the steam-boat navigation 
of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated village sit- 
uated on the west bank of Wood Creek at its enterance 
into the lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains 
about 150 dwellings and stores and 1200 inhabitants. 
The situation of this place is low and unpleasant ; and 
it derives its principal consequence from the naviga- 
tion of the lake, Avhich is passable for sloops of 80 tons 
burthen, and from the northern canal, which here enters 
the lake. Burgoyne occupied this place for a short time, 
preparatory to his march to Saratoga ; and on the 
heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery 
and block house. 

A regular line of stages runs from Whitehall* to Albany 
every day in the week, passing through Fort Ann, San- 
dy Hill, Fort Edward, Saratoga, Stillwater and Water- 
ford. Regular packet-boats also depart for Albany ev- 
ery Tuesday and Saturday at 8 A. M. The fare is 4 
cents per mile, including board. On the arrival of the 
packet-boat at Fort Edward, stages are always in rea- 
diness to start for Albany, Saratoga and Ballston 
Springs. 

THE NORTHERN CANAL, 

Commencing at Whitehall, proceeds five and a half 
miles when it enters Wood Creek, a narrow sluggish 



*A route from this place to Boston is noticed at page 
328. 



THE NORTHERN CANAL. 321 

stream, averaging 15 feet in depth. This creek is con- 
nected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for 
boats, for about 6 1-2 miles, to Fort Ann village. — 
From thence the canal proceeds through Fort Ann, 
Kingsbury, and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller Falls, be- 
low which the canal enters the river, which is made 
navigable 3 miles to Saratoga falls, where the canal is 
taken out of the river on the west side, and proceeds 
through Saratoga, Stillwater and Halfmoon, to Water- 
ford, where it enters the Hudson, and by a branch ca- 
nal enters the Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam, and 
after passing 3-4 of a mile joins the Erie canal in the 
town of Watervleit. The whole length of the Cham- 
plain canal is 63 miles. The cost to the state, exclu- 
sive of the feeder from above Glen's Falls, was $875,000. 
The intervening distances on the canal between 
Whitehall and Albany are as follows : 



Miles. 

Fort Ann, 12 

Sandy-Hill, 8 

Fort Edward, 2 

Fort Miller Falls,... 8 

Saratoga Falls, .... 3 

Schuylerville, 2 

Bemus' Heights, ... 12 



Miles, 

Stillwater V 3 

Mechanics Ville, .... 3 

Waterford, 8 

Watervleit, 2 

Gibbon's Ville, 2 

Albany, 6 



Half a mile north of Fort Anne, where an elbow is 
made by Wood Creek at the foot of a precipitous hill, 
a severe engagement took place in 1777, between a de- 
tachment of Burgoyne's troops and a party of Ameri- 
cans, under the command of Col. Sterry, who wero on 
their retreat from Ticonderoga. The Americana were 
on the plain south of the hill ; while tlie latter served 



322 ROUTES TO BOSTON. 

as a cover to the British. Their fire on Sterry's forces 
below was destructive, and compelled him to abandon 
his position. 

The village of Fort Anne is on the site of the old 
Fort erected during the French war. It was located at 
the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. 

Burgoyne's road, commencing about 2 miles south of 
the village, and nearly pursuing the course of the pres- 
ent road, is still visible. It was a causeway, formed 
by logs laid transversely, a labor wliich became neces- 
sary in conveying his cannon and baggage waggons to 
Saratoga. 

From Fort Anne to Albany, the intervening places, 
Sandy-Hill, Saratoga, &c. have already been noticed. 
((See Index.) 

ROUTES TO BOSTON. 
These are so various, that the traveller may always 
be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selec- 
tion. The route from Albany has been chosen by ma- 
ny on account of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the 
Lebanon Springs ; while others have preferred a course 
which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of 
Vermont and New-Hampshire ; commencing their ex- 
cursions either at Burlington, Whitehall, or at Sarato- 
ga Springs. These routes are hereafter delineated ; 
but without giving them in strict geographical order, 
we commence with that from Saratoga Springs, as pass- 
ing over the most interesting ground connected with 
the liistoric events of the revolution. 



SCHUYLER-VILLE — UNIOU VILLAGE. S5SS 

FROM Saratoga springs to boston* 

161 miles. Intervening distances asfolloios : 



Miles. 

Jeffrey, 5 

New Ipswich, 10 

Townsend, 12 

Pepperel, 6 

Groton, 3 

Littleton, 8 

Acton, 3 

Concord, 7 

Lexington, 7 

Cambridge, 7 

Boston, 3 



Miles, 

Schuyler- Ville, 12 

Union Village, 5 

Cambridge, 8 

Arlington,.* 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landsgrove, 15 

Chester, 15 

Bellows Falls, 14 

Walpole Village, ... 4 

W^alpole, 4 

Keen€, 14 

Marlborough, 5 

A stage leaves Saratoga Springs every morning 
(Sundays excepted) at 5 o'clock, reaching Manchester 
the first day, Keene the second, and Boston the third, 
to dine. Fare $7,50. 

ScHUTLER-ViLLE, 12 miles. {See p. 185.) Passing 
across the vale where the surrender of Burg03me took 
place to the river, (on the bank of which, in a field ad- 
joining the road on the north, are seen the remains of 
an intrenchment,) the stage crosses in a horse-boat. 

Union Village, 5 miles. The Battenkill river pass- 
es through the village, on the banks of which are sev- 
eral mills and factories. There are about 100 houses 
in the place ; and the number is constantly augment- 
ing. 

Cambridge and Arlington are good agricultural 
townships. In the latter place, the route, for a consid- 
erable distance is on the bank of the Battenkill, near 
which are several valuable and extensive quarries of 
Nvliite marble. cc3 



324 BELLOWS FALLS. 

Manchester, 12 miles from Arlington, is a neat vil- 
lage, located near the foot of the Green Mountains, 
which are seen stretching to the north and south as far 
as the eye can extend. Leaving the village, the stage 
soon commences ascending the great natural barrier 
which separates the eastern and western sections of 
Vermont. No exertions have been spared to improve 
the road ; and it may be considered by far the best of 
any which crosses the mountain. The ascent, which 
is not precipitous, continues, with occasional descents, 
for 10 or 12 miles before the summit is reached. Dur- 
ing the first six miles, a most extensive and variegated 
prospect at the west is enjoj^ed ; and after attaining 
the greatest elevation, this is suddenly exchanged for a 
prospect nearly co-extensive at the east. 

Chester, 30 miles from Manchester, is a pleasant 
village, situated on a handsome plain, and contains 
two churches, an excellent academy, and about 60 
dweUings and stores. 

Bellows Falls, 14 miles, lies on the western bank 
of Connecticut river. The village is flourishing, con- 
tains some very pleasant houses, a number of manu- 
facturing establishments, and a beautiful church, which 
stands on an eminence, and is seen for some miles 
distant. 

A canal, having 9 locks, and affording water for a 
number of mills, has been constructed around the falls. 
It is about half a mile in length. The whole descent 
of the river for this distance is 50 feet, and as- 
sumes the appearance of rapids rather than a cataract. 
Over the greatest descent, where the water is compres- 



WALPOLE. 325 

sed by ledges of rocks to a very narrow space, a hand- 
some toll bridge is erected, 50 feet in height, from 
which the water is seen rushing through the pass with 
great rapidity, and dashing upon the rocks in the wild- 
est disorder — presenting a scene truly sublime and in- 
teresting. 

A short distance below the falls are two rocks con- 
taining specimens of Indian workmanship. On one of 
the rocks are the indistinct traces of a number of hu- 
man faces, represented by marks in the stone, and 
probably intended as a memorial of their deceased 
friends or chieftains. That this place was once the 
haunt of our savage predecessors, is evident from the 
arrow points and bits of their earthen pots and frag- 
ments of other utensils wliich may be found in a short 
walk over the adjacent fields.* 

On the New-Hampshire side is a chain of lofty 
mountains, which leave but a narrow passage between 
their base and the river. Around one of these impend- 
ing barriers the road winds its course to the pleasant 
village of 

Walpole, which containes about 80 houses, includ- 
ing some very handsome mansions. This place was 
the scene of many savage incursions during the French 
war. It was once in the entire possession of the Indi- 



* From Bellows Falls, stages can be taken every day 
for Concord, N. H. and for Hartford, Conn. On the 
latter route, the course is generally near the bank of 
the Connecticut river, and through a most dehghtful 
country, interspersed with several elegant villages and 
country seats. 



326 KEENE' — LEXINGTON. 

ans,and retaken from them by Col. Bellows, who made 
the first settlement in this part of the country. The 
scenery in this vicinity is remarkably striking and ro- 
mantic. Ten miles farther is the flourishing village of 

Keene. This is one of the handsomest villages in 
New-England, and is situated a few miles east of the 
Connecticut river. It contains about 200 dwellings, a 
bank, a court house and gaol, 3 churches, and a pop- 
ulation of about 2000. For a distance of 40 miles from 
this place no village of importance intervenes, though 
many handsome dwellings and rich farms are discov- 
ered on the routCi 

Groton, 41 miles from Keene, is a pleasant village, 
containing about 100 houses and an academy ; seven 
miles from which is the town of 

Concord, rendered memorable as the place where 
the first efficient opposition was made to the British 
troops, in 1775. It is a large town, and contains many 
handsome dwellings. Eight miles from which is the 
town of 

Lexington, containing a few plain houses ; but cel- 
ebrated in history as the spot where the first American 
blood was shed in the struggle for Independence. This 
occurred on the 19th of April, 1775. A quantity of mil- 
itary stores had been collected at Concord, which the 
British General Gage proposed to destroy. Though se- 
cret in his operations, and though precaution had been 
taken the evening previous to scour the roads and se- 
cure such citizens as the British officers fell in with, yet 
the plan was discovered by Doctor Warren, of Boston, 
who sent out messengers to alarm the inhabitants and 



LEXINGTON. 327 

prepare them for resistance. On the arrival the next 
morning at Lexington of the British troops, 8 or 900 
strong, it was found that the miUtia of the town, to the 
number of 70, were in arms. Major Pitcairn, who led 
the British van, ordered the " rebels" to disperse. Some 
scattering guns were fired, which were followed by a 
general discharge, and continued till the militia disap- 
peared. Eight men were killed and several wounded.* 

The detachment then proceeded to Concord, a part of 
which took possession of two bridges beyond the town, 
while the remainder destroyed the military stores. A 
number of militia, who had collected in the vicinity, 
but with orders not to give the first fire, attempted to 
pass one of the bridges in the character of travellers. 
They were fired on, and two men killed. The fire was 
returned and a skirmish ensued, which resulted in the 
discomfiture of the regulars, and a precipitate retreat, 
Skirmisloing continued during the day, and though the 
British received reinforcements, they were harrassed in 
their retreat to Bunker's Hill, where they remained se- 
cure under the protection of their ships of war. 

The loss of the British, during this day, in killed, 
wounded and prisoners, was 273 ; wliile that of the 
provincialists did not exceed 90. 

The blow thus struck was the precurser of more im- 
portant events, and was soon followed by the battle of 
Breed's or (as it is generally denominated) Bunker's 
Hill ; which is noticed in subsequent pages. 



+ A handsome monument now marks the spot where 
this action was fought, beneath which are interred tho 
yemaijfts of the Americans who were slain. 



328 FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON. 

Cambridge, is situated 7 miles from Lexington. It 
is a large and handsome town, but derives its impor- 
tance from Harvard University, which is located here, 
and is one of the oldest and most celebrated literary in- 
stitutions in the United States. It takes its name from 
the Rev. John Harvard, who died in 1638, leaving to 
the institution a legacy of 779Z. 17s. 2d. sterhng. The 
edifices belonging to the University are Harvard, Mas- 
sachusetts, Hollis, Stoughton, Holworthy and Univer- 
sity Halls, Holden Chapel, a new stone building re- 
cently erected, and 3 College houses, besides that for 
the President. These buildings are all situated in a 
spacious square, and are handsomely shaded with a 
variety of trees. There are annually educated here 
about 300 students. The amount of property belong- 
ing to the institution, it is said, falls httle short of $600,- 
000. It contains an extensive philosophical aparatus, 
and a library of about 25,000 volumes. Cambridge 
contains 3 handsome villages, a court house, jail, state 
arsenal, 8 houses of pubhc worship, and about 5000 in- 
habitants. 

Two miles from Cambridge is the city of Boston. 
The two places are connected by a bridge 3846 feet 
long and 40 wide, with a causeway of 3344 feet. The 
cost of the Avhole was $76,700. 

[For a description of Boston see subsequent pages.] 

FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON— 178 miles. 

A stage leaves Whitehall three times a week, passing 
through the villages of Castleton and Rutland, con- 
necting at Chester with the route from Saratoga SpringSj 
and reaches Boston tho third day. 



CAStLETON. 329 

Fairhaven, 9 miles from Whitehall, contains seve- 
ral mills and manufactories of iron, and about 50 houses. 

Castleton, 5 miles farther, is a handsome village of 
80 or 90 houses, and contains the Rutland county acad- 
emy and a medical college ; which are liberally patron- 
ized. The Vermont Classical Seminary, recently erected 
at this place, under the superintendence of Messrs. 
Beck and Foot, will doubtless ere long rank among the 
first hterary institutions in the United States. The 
building erected for the purpose, is situated on an em- 
inence south of the village, and commands an exten- 
sive view of a rich and beautiful country. It is 160 feet 
in length, and 40 in breadth, with projections in the 
centre and ends of 46 and 55 feet, and is 3 stories high, 
exclusive of a basement. To the building is attached 
a play-ground of about six acres, a part of which is to 
be devoted to a garden. The whole course of instruc- 
tion is on a scale corresponding with that of the most 
favored seminaries of learning in the country. 

About half a mile north of the village, at the junction 
of the Hubbardton with the main road, are slight re- 
mains of a fort and breast work, which were occupied 
during the revolution aiy war ; two miles north of which 
the Hubbardton road passes over the ground where a 
severe action was fought between a detachment of 
Burgoyne's army and a body of American troops. The 
latter composed the rear guard of the Americans 
which evacuated Ticonderoga in July, 1777, and were 
commanded by Col. Warner. They were about 1000 
strong ; and were overtaken by a force of nearly the 
same number under Gen. Frazer. A long, severe, and 
obstinate conflict ensued ; when the arrival of General 



330 FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON. 

Reidsell, with his division of Germans, compelled the 
Americans to give way in all directions. The British 
loss was stated by Gen. Burgoyne «.t 35 killed and 144 
wounded ; and the American loss was estimated by 
Gen. St. Clair at 50 killed and wounded. It is generally 
supposed that the loss of both armies was much greater. 

The Americans retreated to the south, and took part 
in the Bennington battle on the 16th of August, and in 
the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga in October fol- 
lowing. 

Rutland, 10 miles from Castleton, is the capital of 
Rutland county. It is situated 3 miles west of the 
Green Mountains, in view of Killington Peak, and for 
beauty of local situation is not surpassed by any village 
in the northern slates. It contains upwards of 100 
houses, a bank, a court house, and a gaol. 

Ten miles from Rutland, in the town of Shrewsbury, 
the road reaches the foot of the Green Mountains, 
wliich are crossed in travelling 12 miles farther. No 
part of the passage is precipitous ; though the road is 
less pleasant than that leading from Manchester. {See 
p. 323.) 

Chester is 40 miles from Rutland ; from whence 
the route to Boston is the same as that noticed at page 
324.) 

FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

{through Windsm', Vt.) 
From Burlington, Vt. where the Champlain steam- 
boats touch in the passage up and down the lake, sta- 
ges depart for Boston three times a week, passing 
through Montpelicr and Windsor, Vt. Claremont and 



MONTPELIER. 



331 



Amherst, N. H., Billerica and Medford, Mass., and 
reach Boston on the third day. Distance 206 miles — 
Fare ^S. Tho intervening distances are as follows : 



Miles. 

Lempster, 12 

Washington, 7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount Vernon, ...... 9 

Amherst, 6 

Merrimack, ......... 3 

Dunstable, 7 

I Tyngsborough, ...... 6 

Chelmsford, 7 

Billerica, 4 

Woburn, 9 

Boston, 10 



Miles. 

Williston, 8 

Richmond, 9 

Bolton, 2 

Waterbury, 8 

Moretown, 4 

Montpelier, 7 

Willi amstown, 10 

Brookfield, 8 

Randolph, .12 

Royalton, 3 

Barnard, 6 

W^oodstock, 8 

Windsor, 14 

Claremont, 9 

Burlington. {See page 318.) 

Montpelier, is situated on the Onion River, a little 
north of the centre of the state, 38 miles from Burling- 
ton. It is at present the seat of government, and has 
a State-house, court-house, gaol, and a house of public 
worship, besides a number of manufacturing establish- 
ments. It contains about 2000 inhabitants. 

With the exception of a narrow vale, through which 
the river passes, the village is surrounded by lofty hills 
and mountains, which give it the appearance of seclu- 
sion from the rest of the world. The road for several 
miles previous to reaching the village, and after leaving 
it, is on the bank of the river, and the mountain scene- 
ry is unusually romantic. 

In passing from Montpelier to Randolph, the route is 
on what is termed the gulph road. This gulph is six 

DD 



332 WOODSTOCK — WINDSOR. 

miles in extent, between lofty mountains, with barely 
a sufficient space for a road and the White river, a beau- 
tifully transparent stream, exhibiting, in most instan- 
ces, a bottom of white gravel. 

Randolph, 30 miles from Montpelier, is on a lofty 
ridge of land, affording some of the finest farms in the 
state. The village is small, but much admired for its 
location and neatness. 

RoTALTON, 3 miles. A pleasant village. 

Woodstock, 14 miles, the capital of Windsor coun- 
ty, is a place of considerable business. The principal 
village, called Woodstock Green, is on the bank of the 
Queechy river, and contains a court house, jail, church 
and a marble factory — also an extensive manufactory 
of scythes. 

Windsor, 14 miles, is a beautiful town on the banks 
of the Connecticut. The houses exhibit a very neat 
and handsome appearance, and stand in a fertile and 
richly cultivated tract of country. It contains a flour- 
ishing Female Seminary, with a number of churches, 
and the Vermont Penitentiary. The bridge built across 
the Connecticut at this place is one of the handsomest 
on the river. Ascutney, a mountain in the southwest 
part of the town, is 1732 feet in height, and is well wor- 
thy the attention of those who take delight in the rich 
and diversified prospects afforded from mountain sum- 
mits. 

At Windsor, the route crosses the Connecticut river 
into New-Hampshire, and proceeds through a fertile 
country, occasionally interspersed with a pleasant vil- 
lage, to Boston, 



ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIMS. 



333 



FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

{By ivay of the White Mountains and Concord^ J^ew- 

Hampshire — 265 miles.*) 
The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 



lows 



From Burlington to 


Miles. 


Montpelier, .... 
Littleton, N. H. . . , 
E. A. Crawford's, 


38 
40 
18 


Notch of the White 




Mountains, .... 


5 


Notch House,. . . . 


2 


Crawford's Farm, 


6 


Bartlett, 


7 


Conway, 

Six Mile Pond, .... 


10 126 
11 


Centre Harbor,. .. 


24 


Guilford, 


13 


Union Bridge, .... 


7 



Miles. 
Winnepiseogee 

Bridge, 4 

Concord, 17 202 

Pembroke, 4 

Candia, 12 

Chester, 6 

Londonderry, .... 5 

N. H. State line,.. 12 
Andover Bridge, . . 3 

Andover, 4 

VVoburn, 8 

Medford, 5 

Boston, 4 265 



* Strangers designing to proceed directly to Boston 
from Burlington, via Concord, N. H. without visiting 
the White Mountains, continue on the route from Mont- 
pelier to Randolph, as noticed at p. 331, and from thence 
to Hanover, 25 miles, and to Concord 55 miles farther. 
(The route from the latter place to Boston is noticed at 
p. 343.) Hanover is located on a handsome plain, half 
a mile from the Connecticut river, and contains the 
buildings of Dartmouth college and about 80 dwelling 
houses. The college derives its name from William, 
Earl ofDarmouth, one of its principal benefactors. It 
was founded in 1769, by the late Doct. Eleazer Whee- 
lock, and is in a flourishing condition. A medical in- 
stitution is connected with the college, and is accom- 
modated with a brick edifice, containing, besides rooms 
for students, a laboratory, anatomical museum, miner- 
alogical cabinet, library and lecture rooms. The num- 
ber of students educated at this college annually is be- 
tween 2 and 300. 



334 ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

A stage can be taken at Burlington 3 times a week 
for Montpelier, Vt. distant 38 miles, where it is re- 
commended to travellers to proceed to Littleton, N. H. 
40 miles east of Montpelier, from whence a stage 
passes twice a week through the Jfotch of the White 
Mountains to Conway ; and from thence to Portland, 
(Maine,) three times a week. From Littleton to Ethan 
A. Crawford's, at the foot of the mountains, 18 miles, 
about half the distance is through a cultivated country ; 
but the remaining part is through an extensive, and, 
but for the road, an impenetrable forest. 

The first view of the White Mountains, as distin- 
guished from the multitude of peaks and summits 
which meet the eye in every direction, is obtained a 
short distance from Littleton ; but INIount W'^ashington 
is not seen till arriving near to Crawford's. The first 
view of these mountains is magnificent, and as they 
are approached they become more and more so until 
the bare, bleak summit of Mount Wasliington rising 
far above the immense piles which surround it, strikes 
the traveller with awe and astonishment. But the emo- 
tions which one receives from the grand and majestic 
scenery which surrounds him here, are utterly beyond 
the power of description. There is no single object 
upon which the eye rests and which the mind may 
grasp, but the vast and multiplied features of the land- 
scape actually bewilder while they delight. 

These mountains are the loftiest in the U. States east 
of the Rocky Mountains ; and their heights above the 
Connecticut river have been estimated as follows : 
Washington, 5350 ft.; Jefferson, 5261 ; Adams, 5383 ; 
Madison, 5039 ; Monroe, 4932 ; Quincy, 4470. From 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 336 

the summit of Mount Washington, the Atlantic ocean 
is seen at Portland, 65 miles S. E. ; the Katahdin 
Mountains to the N. E. near the sources of the Penob- 
scot river ; the Green Mountains of Vermont on the 
west ; Mount Monadnock, 120 miles to the S. W. ; and 
numerous lakes, rivers, &c. within a less circumference. 
The J^otch or Gap is on the west side of the mountains, 
and is a deep and narrow defile, in one place only 22 
feet wide. A road passes through which is crossed by 
the river Saco ; into which several tributary streams 
enter from the mountain heights, forming many beau- 
ful cascades. Lafayette Mountain is situated in the 
northeast part of the township of Franconia, nearly 
equidistant from Mount Washington in the northeast, 
and Moose-Hillock in the southwest, being about 20 
miles from each ; and it is obviously more elevated 
than any other summit in sight, except the White 
Mountains. 

At the Franconia Notch, near the road leading from 
Franconia to Plymouth, and about three miles south of 
Mount Lafayette, a foot path has been cleared out from 
the road to the top of the mountain. The point where 
the path commences is six miles from the Franconia 
iron works, and the length of it from the road to the 
summit is three miles; and throughout this distance 
it is almost uniformly steep. The ascent for the dis- 
tance of about two miles is through a thick forest of 
hemlock, spruce, &c. Higher up, the mountain is en- 
compassed with a zone, about half a mile in width, cov- 
ered with stunted trees, chiefly hemlock and spruce. 
Above the upper edge of this zo^e, which is about half 
a mile from the top, trees and shrubs disappear. The 
dd2 



336 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

summit is composed chiefly of bare rocks, partly in 
large masses, and partly broken into small pieces. 

The view from the top is exceedingly picturesque 
and magnificent. Although it is not so extensive as 
that from the summit of Moimt Washington, yet ow- 
ing to the more advantageous situation of Lafayette, 
being more central as it respects this mountainous re- 
gion, it is not inferior to it in either beauty or grandeur. 
The view to the north-east, east, south and southwest, 
is one grand panorama of mountain scenery, present- 
ing more than fifty summits, which when viewed from 
this elevation, do not appear to differ greatly in height. 
Some of these mountains are covered with verdure to 
the top, while the summits of others are composed of 
naked rocks ; and down the sides of many of them 
may be seen slides or avcdanches of earth, rocks and 
trees more or less extensive, which serve to diversify 
the scene. The only appearance of cultivation in this 
whole compass is confined to a few farms seen in a di- 
rection west of south, on the road to Plymouth, extend- 
ing along the Pemigewasset branch of the Merrimack. 
To the west is seen the territory watered by the Con- 
necticut and the Ammonoosuck. 

At a place in the road through the Franconia Notch 
where the path up the mountain commences, is exhi- 
bited to the view of the traveller, on the mountain 
opposite to Lafayette, the Profile or the Old Mail of the 
JMountain, a singular lusus natura, and a remarkable 
curiosity. It is situated on the brow of the peak or 
precipice, which rises almost perpendicularly from the 
surface of a snir.ll lake, directly in front, to the height 
(as estimated) of from 600 to 1000 feet. The front of 



\ 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 337 

this precipice is formed of solid rock, but as viewed 
from tiie point where the profile is seen, the whole of it 
appears to be covered with trees and vegetation, ex- 
cept about space enough for a side view of the Old 
Man's bust. All the principal features of the human 
face, as seen in a profile, are formed with surprising 
exactness. The little lake at the bottom of the preci- 
pice is about half a mile in length, and is one of the 
sources of the Pemigewasset river. Half a mile to the 
north of this, there is another lake, surrounded with 
romantic scenery, nearly a mile in length, and more 
than half a mile in breadth. This is one of the sources 
of the southern branch of the Ammonoosuck, which 
flows into the Connecticut. These lakes are both sit- 
uated in the Notch, very near the road, and near to 
the point where the steep ascent of Mount Lafayette 
commences. The northern lake is 900 feet above the 
site of the Franconia iron- works, and the highest point 
in the road through the Notch is 1023 feet above the 
same level. Other curiosities in this vicinity are, the 
Basin and the Pulpit. 

The portiori of the Gap, including the Notch in the 
White Mountains, which is the most sublime and inter- 
esting is about 5 or 6 miles in length. It is composed 
of a double barrier of mountains, rising very abruptly 
from both sides of the wild roaring river Saco, wliich 
frequently washes the feet of both barriers. Sometimes 
there is not room for a single carriage to pass between 
the stream and the mountains, and the road is cut into 
the mountain itself. This double barrier rises on each 
side to the height of nearly half a mile in perpendicular 
altitude, and is capped here and there by proud castcl- 



338 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

lated turrets, standing high above the continued ridges. 
These are not straight, but are formed into numerous 
zig-zag turns, which frequently cut off the view and 
seem to imprison the traveller in the vast, gloomy gulf. 
The sides of the mountains are deeply furrowed and 
scarred by the tremendous effects of the memorable 
deluge and avalanches of 1826. No tradition existed 
of any slide in former times, and such as are now ob- 
served to have formerly happened, had been complete- 
ly veiled by forest growth and shrubs. At length, on 
the 28th of June, two months before the fatal avalanche, 
there was one not far from the Willey house, which 
so far alarmed the family, that they erected an encamp- 
ment a little distance from their dwelHng, intending it 
as a place of refuge. On the fatal night, it was impen- 
etrably dark and frightfully tempestuous ; the lonely 
family had retired to rest, in their humble dwelling, six 
miles from the nearest human creature. The avalan- 
ches descended in every part of the gulf, for a distance 
of two miles ; and a very heavy one began on the 
mountain top, immediately above the house, and de- 
scended in a direct line towards it ; the sweeping tor- 
rent, a river from the clouds, and a river full of trees, 
earth, stones, and rocks, rushed to the house and mar- 
vellously divided within six feet of it, and just behind 
it, and passed on either side, sweeping away the stable 
and horses, and completely encircling the dwelling, but 
leaving it untouched. At this time, probably towards 
midnight, (as the state of the beds and apparel, &c. 
shewed that they had retired to rest,) the family issued 
from their house, and were swept away by the tor- 
rent. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 339 

Search was, for two or three days, made in vain for 
the bodies, when they were at length found. They 
were evidently floated along by the torrent and cover- 
ed by the drift wood. A pole, with a board nailed 
across it, hke a guide post, now indicates the spot 
where the bodies were found. Had the family remained 
in the house they would have been entirely safe. Even 
the little green in front and east of the house was un- 
disturbed, and a flock of sheep, (a part of the posses- 
ion of the family) remained on this small spot of ground, 
and were found there the next morning in safety — al- 
though the torrent dividing just above the house, and 
forming a curve on both sides, had swept completely 
around them, and again united below, and covered the 
meadows and orchard with ruins, which remain there 
to this day. Nine persons were destroyed by this ca- 
tastrophe, and the story of their virtues and their fate 
is often told to the traveller by the scattered popula- 
tion of these mountain valleys, in a style of simple 
pathos and minuteness of detail, which has all the in- 
terest of truth and incident of romance in its recital. 
The scene of tliis disaster was about 7 miles from 
Ethan A. Crawford's, and 2 miles from the commence- 
of the Notch, where Thomas Crawford, a brother of 
Ethan, now resides. 

The number of visitors to the White Mountains has 
been considerably increased, on account of the inter- 
est excited by these avalanches. The most sublime 
views of them, (several of which are nearly equal to 
the memorable one which swept away the unfortunate 
Willey family,) may be seen all along for several miles, 
in passing through the Notch. They arc also observed 



340 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

from various points in the country around, extending 
down the sides of many of the elevated mountains ; 
and the astonishing effects of this extraordinary inun- 
dation are also witnessed in the great enlargement of 
the channels of the streams which rise in these cluster 
of mountains. This is the fact especially with regard 
to the channel of the principal branch of the Ammo- 
noosuck, which rises near the summit of Mount Wash- 
ington. 

The camp which was built by Mr. Crawford for the 
accommodation of visitors over night, two miles and 
a quarter from the summit of Mount Washington, was 
situated near this branch, and was carried away by 
the swelling of the stream. A small camp has been 
erected in its place, but it is of little use, and affords no 
accommodations for lodging visitors over night. 

The distance from Crawford's house to the summit 
of Mount Washington, is nine miles. Through a part 
of this distance a carriage road is now made, leaving 
only 4 or 5 miles to be ascended on foot. The time 
usually occupied in asccending the mountain, reckon- 
ing from the time of leaving Crawford's house to the 
time of returning to it again, is from ten to fourteen 
hours ; and the shortest time in which the enterprise 
has been performed is about eight hours. 

Continuing the route through the Notch, the first 
house reached, is the Elder Crawford's, six miles from 
the " Notch house," as that once occupied by the un- 
fortunate Willey is called. From thence to Bartlett is 
7 miles. From this place to Conway, wluch is ten 
miles, there are more appearaces of cultivation, parti- 
cularly in the little valley through which the road pass- 



FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD. 341 

es. The country around, however, is still wild and 
unimproved, displaying a succession of bold and lofty 
mountain scenery. The prospect at the village of 
Conway is bounded on the north and west by high 
mountains, and the several summits of the White Moun- 
tains, rising at 30 miles distant, are more easily distin- 
guished than at any point near them. 

Fryeburgh, in Maine, is 10 miles from Conway, 
and is generally taken in the route to the White 
Mountains from the east. It is a considerable village, 
built upon a wide plain upon two broad streets, and 
has a respectable academy. It is chiefly interesting 
as being associated with the early history of our country. 
About a mile from the village is Lovell's pond, the scene 
of the bloody fight in 1725 between a gallant band of 
Americans under Capt. Lovell, and the remnant of the 
Pequawcket tribe under the renowned Chief Paugus. 
From Fryeburgh to Portland, distant 52 miles, the 
road is over a dull and uninteresting country ; but trav- 
ellers designing to visit that place in connection with 
the White Mountains, will find it the most direct route. 
[FffT a description of Portland, see the route from Boston 
to that place in subsequent pages.] 

FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD, N. H.— 76mUes. 
Returning to Conway, and proceeding on the route 
to Concord, Six Mile Pond is passed in going 11 miles, 
and Centre Harbor is reached in going 24 miles farther. 
The road, for 20 or 30 miles, is through a valley bor- 
dered with lofty mountains, exhibiting only an occa- 
sional settlement. 



342 CENTRE HARBOR — CONCORD. 

Centre Harbor is on Lake Winnipiseogee, the 
largest lake in the state. It is 23 miles long and from 
6 to 14 broad, and is remarkable for its beautiful and 
sublime scenery. From the top of Red Mountain, in 
Centre Harbor, 1500 feet high, and which is accessible 
for about two thirds of the way in a carriage, there is 
an extensive prospect. At the distance of 70 miles to 
the southwest, may be seen Mount Monadnock ; at 
the west, the Kyarsage and Simson mountains ; at the 
northwest the Moose-Hillock ; at the north, the Sand- 
\vich mountains, with the Squam lake intervening ; at 
the southeast, the Winnipiseogee lake, with its numer- 
ous islands, bays, and the mountains which rise from 
its borders, including Ossippee on the northeast, Gun- 
stock on the south, and a semi-circular mountain at the 
termination of the lake at the southeast ; the whole 
forming a vast billowy ocean of lofty mountains, with 
their grand intersecting curves, exhibiting a complete 
panorama of the sublimest mountain scenery. 

Squam Lake, which lies west of the mountain, is 10 
miles long and 5 wide, and like the Winnipiseogee, is 
sprinkled with numerous small and beautiful islands. 
The finest of trout are caught in these lakes, and their 
shores abound with an abundance of game, affording 
to the angler and fowler ample means of employment 
as well as amusement. 

The route from Centre Harbor to Concord, 41 miles, 
passes through an interesting country, affording a view 
of several flourishing manufacturing villages. 

Concord is the capital of New-Hampshire. The vil- 
lage is principally composed of two streets on the west 



ROUTE FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON. 843 

bank of the Merrimack rivei-, and contains a state 
house, state prison, town house, bank, several church- 
es, 4 or 5 printing offices, and rising of 200 dwelhng- 
houses. The state house, located near the centre of 
the village, is an elegant building of hewn granite, 100 
feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and the 
senate and representatives' chambers on the second. 
The building is surrounded by a spacious yard, which 
is enclosed with a handsome wall. The state prison, 
a strong building, is a short distance from the state 
house. 

The Merrimack river is navigable for large boats 
from Concord to Chelmsford ; from whence to Boston 
the communication is continued in the Middlesex canal, 
28 miles long. 

FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON. 
Stages leave Concord every day at 7 A. M. passing 
through Pembroke, Hookset, Chester, Londonderry, 
New-Salem, Melhuen, Andover, Reading, Stoneham, 
Medford and Charlestown, to Boston. Distance 68 
miles. Fare $3. 

Pembroke, 4 miles from Concord, is located on the 
east side of the Merrimack river. It is a thriving village, 
and besides several handsome dwellings, contains 2 
churches, an academy, 4 paper mills and a cotton fac- 
tory. 

HooKSETT, 3 miles farther. The Merrimack here 
descends 16 feet in the course of 30 rods. 

Chester, 15 miles, is a pleasant village, containing 
a flourishing Academy. 

EE 



344 ANDOVER — LOWELL. 

Londonderry, 5 miles from Chester, is principally 
settled with emigrants from Ireland. It contains two 
small villages, two churches and an academy. 

Methuen, is miles farther, is situated on the north 
side of the Merrimack. Near the village on the Spick- 
et creek, is a handsome fall of 30 feet. A bridge here 
crosses the river to 

Andover, which contains an extensive theological 
seminary and a flourishing academy. The former 
was founded in 1808 and has already received more 
than $350,000 in contributions, principally from six 
families. The buildings are on a lofty eminence, and 
assume a very rich and handsome appearance. 

Lowell, 12 miles from Boston, is one of the largest 
manufacturing towns in the U. States. It is located on 
the Merrimack river and the Middlesex canal leading 
to Boston. The falls of the river at this place are 30 
feet, and aflbrd the most ample means for extensive op- 
erations by water power. The village and the first facto- 
ry were commenced in 1813, and the place now as- 
sumes the character of a large bustling town, laid into 
streets with much taste and elegance, and the whole 
appearance of the place rendered peculiarly interesting 
from the magnificent and numerous factories and pub- 
lic buildings with which it is adorned. 

Medford, 4 miles from Boston, is on the Mystic riv- 
er ; S miles from which is the handsome village of 
Charlestown. (See jj. 364.) 

Boston is 1 mile farther, the Charlestown bridge in- 
tervening. {See p. 356.) 



ROUTo: FROM ALBANY To BOSTON. 



345 



FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. 

From Albany, stages leave daily for Boston, which 
is distant 164 miles, and the route is performed in two 
days. Fare $3,75. One line passes through Benning- 
ton and Brattleborough, Vt., but the most usual route 
is through New-Lebanon, Pittsfield, Northampton, 
Brookfield, Worcester and Watertown. 

The several stages and distances on the last men- 
tioned route are as follows : 



Miles. 

Schodack, 5 

Nassau, 12 

New-Lebanon, 8 

Pittsfield, 9 

Dalston, 6 

Peru, 7 

Worthington, 8 

Chesterfield, 9 

Northampton, 13 

Hadley, 2 



Miles. 

Belchertown, 10 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, 8 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 5 

Worcester, 6 

Framingham, 20 

Weston, 5 

Watertown, 5 

Boston, 10 



Albany, {Seep. 135.) 

New-Lebanon is a pleasant village in the town of 
Canaan, N. Y. bordering on Pittsfield, Mass. and is 25 
miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of 
considerable importance, vi'hich is much frequented in 
the summer months by invalids. It is principally used 
for the purposes of bathing ; but is much inferior to the 
Saratoga waters either as a medicine or beverage. 
The fountain issues from the side of a high hill, in great 
abundance, discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per 
minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The 
water is remarkably pure and soft, and is perfectly 



S46 NEW-LEBANON — PITTSFIELD. 

tasteless and inodorous. Gas, in considerable quanti- 
ties, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the 
water in constant motion. It contains small quanti- 
ties of Muriate of Lime, Muriate of Soda, Sulphate of 
Lime, and Carbonate of Li^e j and its temperature is 
73 degrees of Farenheit. 

Convenient bathing houses are kept in readiness at 
all times, for the accommodation of strangers; and 
there are a number of boarding establishments which, 
at different rates, afford proportionate fare. 

Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Village, 
containing a number of neat, plain buildings, generally 
painted yellow. The property of this society is held in 
common ; and they are said to possess nearly 3000 
acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pursuits, 
they carry on several branches of manufactures, which 
are distinguished by excellence, of workmanship. The 
singular regulations and ceremonies of these people, 
constitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine 
miles from New-Lebanon is the village of 

PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, 
and from the neatness of its buildings. The village 
contains about 160 houses,'a bank, an academy, 2 print- 
ing offices and several stores. Here are annually held 
the Cattle Show and Fair of the celebrated Berkshire 
Agricultural Society, which has been incorporatsd by 
act of the legislature ; and which has done more to- 
wards improving the condition of agriculture than any 
other institution of the kind in the Union. The show 
and fair, which occupy two days, never fail to impart 



JJORTHAMPTON. 



S47 



an uniisual degree of interest, and are always attend- 
ed by immense crowds of citizens.* 

Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one 
of the finest towns in New-England. It is situated a 
mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and was set- 



* About 24 miles north of Pittsfield, in the town of 
Adams, there is a J^atural Bndge, but little inferior to 
the celebrated natural bridge in Virginia. The excava- 
tion or gutter is in solid hme rock, 40 rods in length, 
varying from 50 to 60 feet in height, through which 
runs Hudson's Brook or the north branch of the Hoo- 
sic, occupying from 13 to 14 feet, which is the uninter- 
rupted width of the cup. Over this the bridge is 
thrown, being 62 feet from the bed of the brook, 15 
feet long 10 wide, arched beneath, and what renders it 
a matter of greater curiosity, the arch is perfectly 
smooth, and beautifully white. On the west side of 
the arch is a circular cut room, large enough to contain 
ten persons. The whole place bears the marks of be- 
ing wrought by the irritation of the waters in a most 
workmanhke manner. For ages this cause must have 
operated in producing the result. In the neighbor- 
hood of the bridge the rocks are somewhat open ; up- 
on examining which, they are found leading to large 
caverns, worked out by the constant friction of water. 
The roar of water and the sublimity of the scenery, 
produce an indescribable sensation upon the visitor 
which induces him to retreat, being warned that he 
stands on slippery places. There are many traditions 
respecting the precipice — one is, that a war party of 
Indians, on an expedition to Brookfield, in one of the 
early Indian wars, was dashed to pieces on the rocks 
below. Some fifteen or twenty years ago, a Mr. 
Briggs, then a student in William's College, visited the 
place unaccompanied. Curiosity tempted him to ex- 
plore more fully the precipice, and, by the assistance 
ee2 



3\H MOUNT HULYOk'G. 

tied ag early as the year 1654. It contains a bank, 
2 printing offices, court house, gaol, and 300 dwellings, 
some of which are very elegant. The Congregational 
church, which is built of wood, is considered one of the 
most beautiful structures in the state. There are sev- 
eral manufactories here ; and the place exhibits an 
unusual degree of enterprize and wealth. The Far- 
inington canal commences at this place, and extends to 
New-Haven, Conn. 60 miles. 

Mount Holyoke, in the vicinity of Northampton, is 
much frequented by tourists. It is situated on the east 
side of the river opposite to Northampton. The height 
of this mountain above the level of the river is 1070 
feet. In consequence of the resort to this place, which 
has been not less than from two to five thousand an- 



of poles, he desconded to the base of it. Here his eyes 
feasted upon the wonders of nature. His curiosity be- 
ing gratified, he began to think of returning. After re- 
peated trials he gave it up, and inscribed on the rock 
his farewell to his friends and the world. His voice 
could not reach the habitation of man, and the rocks 
were, to all appearance, to be bis grave. He, however, 
began to repeat the notching in the side, which was 
marble, and after a painful labor of several hours, he 
effected his escape. But the exertion proved too much ; 
it undermined his health, and in a few months he was 
conveyed to his grave. This place was discovered by 
a Mr. Hudson, while travelling the wilderness, a few 
years before the French war. He came to it in the 
night, where he remained, and heard the roaring of the 
mighty torrent beneath him. The next morning he 
perceived that had he advanced a few steps more he 
would have been plunged into eternity. From this 
circumstance, the brook and the falls bear his name. 



LEAD MINE. 349 

hually, two buildings have been erected on its summit 
for the purpose of accommodating visitors with re- 
freshments. The beautiful and extensive prospect af- 
forded from the top of the mountain, will amply com- 
pensate the labor and difficulty of the ascent. The 
view embraces eminences 160 miles apart, with sever- 
al beautiful villages and a rich and fertile country in- 
tervening, and is said to be unrivalled in the eastern 
states. 

The Lead Mine at Southampton, 8 miles south 
west of Northampton, is an object of much interest, 
and should be visited, if practicable, in an excursion to 
the eastern states. The vein is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, 
and declines 10 or 15 degrees from a perpendicular. It 
has been explored to the depth of 40 or 50 feet and 30 
or 40 rods in length ; and the ore is found in masses 
from a quarter of an inch to a foot in diameter. The 
Journal of Science remarks, that " at the depth above 
mentioned, the water became so abundant that it was 
thought advisable to abandon a perpendicular explora- 
tion, and to descend to the foot of the hill on the east, 
nearly 80 rods from the vein, and attempt a horizontal 
drift, or adit ; and ever since its commencement, eight 
or ten years ago, the working of the vein has ceased. 
This drift is now carried into the hill, on an exact level, 
nearly 60 rods, and the workmen told me, that not less 
than $20,000 had been expended upon it. Tlie rocks 
that have been penetrated, reckoning from the mouth 
of the drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray slates 
of the coal formation, with thin beds of coal and mica 
slate, and granite alternating. Probably the funda- 
mental dcposite of granite is now uncovered ; and the 



S50 LEAD MINE. 

principal vein of galena cannot be far distant. Several 
small branch veins of crystalized quartz and galena 
have been crossed, and several specimens of these, col- 
lected by Dr. Hunt, were very rich and beautiful ; the 
crystals of pure galena sometimes exhibit, on their fa- 
ces, insulated crystals of honey colored carbonate of 
lime. The principal vein will be found not less, I 
should judge, than 150 feet below the surface ; and 
when that time comes, it is confidently expected, not 
only that the proprietors will be rewarded for the great 
expense they have incurred, but also, that many a rich 
specimen will be found to ornament the mineral cabl- 
ets of our country, and to vie in beauty with the lead 
ores of Europe. 

The mouth of the drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and about 
3 feet above the surface of the water. The water is 
deep enough the whole length of it, to admit the pas- 
sage of a loaded boat. The person wishing to explore 
this internal canal, must fire a gun at the entrance, or 
beat heavily with a sledge on the timbers that support 
the soil ; in 10 or 15 minutes, he will perceive a gentle 
undulation of the water, and soon after, a boat advan- 
cing with lighted lamps and a rower ; having seated 
himself on the bottom of this boat, and provided him- 
self with an additional garment, he is prepared for his 
subterranean expedition. As he enters the passage, 
he will for a moment experience, or imagine he experi- 
ences, a little difficulty of breathing. But he will soon 
become reconciled to lois condition ; and after passing 
about 100 feet in the excavation, for which distance the 
soil is supported by timbers, he will find occasionally 
more room, so that he can stand erect. If he looks 



HADLEY. 351 

back, after having advanced several hundred feet, the 
light at the entrance will appear diminished to the size 
of a candle ; and before he reaches the extremity, it 
becomes invisible. About half way from the entrance 
to the end of the drift, he will pass a shaft, down which 
a small brook is turned, for the purpose of aiding the 
ventilator. When he reaches the end of the drift, he 
finds himself to have penetrated nearly 60 rods, chiefly 
into solid rock. 

The miners do not quit the drift when they blast, but 
retire behind a breast work thrown up for the purpose. 
One man has been an inmate of that dark recess eight 
or ten years without suffering in his health. 

Every mineralogist passing that way, will of course 
visit this drift. Intelligent gentlemen without profes- 
sional views, and even ladies, not unfrequently enter 
this cavity." 

Hax>ley, 2 miles from Northampton, is one of the 
oldest towns in the state. It was the head quarters of 
the army employed for the defence of the towns on 
the Connecticut river, in the war with Phillip in 1675- 
6 ; and was, for a long time, the place of residence of 
the two regicides or judges, Whalley and Goffe, in the 
time of Charles the second. On the town being at- 
tacked by the Indians during this war, a stranger, ven- 
erable in appearance, and differing in his apparel from 
the rest of the inhabitants, suddenly presented himself 
at the head of the colonial troops, and encourraged 
them by his advice and example to perseverance in de- 
fending the place. To his experience in military tac- 
tics and courage, in a great measure, was a defeat of 
the Indians attributable. When they retreated, the 



352 HADLEY. 

stranger disappeared ; and in those times of supersti- 
tion, it was verily believed by many that he was the 
guardian angel of the place. But he was no other thaa 
Col. Goffe, who seeing the village in danger, left his 
concealment to unite with its inhabitants in a vigorous 
defence. 

In connection with the history of this place, the fol- 
lowing biographical sketch of Goffe, Whalley and Dix- 
well may not prove uninteresting : 

On the restoration of the English monarch, Charles 
2d, in 1660, several of the judges who sat on the trial 
of Charles 1st, were seized, condemned and executed. 
Others, foreseeing the result, escaped. Whalley and 
Goffe, two of the number, came to Boston ; where, for 
a time, they received the hospitality due to their rank. 
But on learning that several of the regicides had been 
executed, and that Whalley and Goffe had not been in- 
cluded in the act of pardon, the people who had har- 
bored them began to be alarmed ; and the two judges 
abruptly departed for Connecticut. Subsequently, the 
King's proclamation was received, requiring their ap- 
prehension. They, however, eluded the vigilance of 
their pursurers, by secreting themselves in a cave and 
other secret places at New-Haven, where they contin- 
ued, between three and four years, until their retreat 
was discovered by the Indians. Finding that they 
could no longer remain at New-Haven in safety, and 
that a vigilant search for them was still continued, 
they resolved to remove into a more secluded part of 
the country. A friend had succeeded in inducing the 
Rev. Mr. Russell, of Hadley, to receive them ; and af- 
ter a toilsome journey by night, they reached liis house 



WARE FACTORY VILLAGE. 353 

m October, 1664. In a chamber of this house, (which 
was situate on the east side, and near the centre of the 
present main street,) having a secret passage to the 
cellar, they remained undiscovered for fifteen or sixteen 
years. During this period, Goffe held a correspon- 
dence with his wife in England, under an assumed 
name ; and in a letter of April, 1679, it is stated that 
Whalley had died some time previous, at Mr. Russell's. 
His bones were discovered not many years since in a 
sort of tomb adjoining the cellar wall of Mr. Russell's 
house. 

Not long after Goffe and Whalley arrived at Hadley, 
they were joined by Col. John Dixwell, another of the 
judges. After remaining some time, he went to New- 
Haven, assumed the name of Davids, was married, had 
several children, and his real name was not known un- 
till his death in 1689. He was buried in the church- 
yard at that place ; where a coarse stone still marks the 

spot of his interment, with this inscription : " J. D. 

Esq. deceased, March 18, in the 82d year of his age — 

1688-9." 
After the death of Whalley, Goffe travelled to the 

south, and no certain information relative to his fate 

has ever been obtained. 

From Hadley to Belchertown, a pleasant village, 
is 10 miles, and from thence to 

Ware Factory Village, is 9 miles farther. This 
place, located on the Ware river, has attained to an as- 
tonishing growth within a short time. There are few 
places in the country exhibiting so barren and rugged a 
soil as the site and lands adjacent to this flourishing 
little city in miniature. As you approach from the west 



354 BROOKFIELD — LEICESTER. 

or east, it bursts upon the view with its long range of 
manufactories, its neat white houses, and gUttering 
spires, producing the same sensation in the bosom, as 
the prospect of a beautiful garden in the midst of a de- 
sert. It contains several public buildings, which would 
be an ornament to our most flourishing inland towns of 
more ancient date. 

Brookfield, 8 miles from Ware, is a handsome town, 
though very little improved by any recent additions of 
buildings. This place was burnt by the Indians in 
1675. On the first alarm, the inhabitants, in all about 
70, repaired to a house slightly fortified externally with 
logs, and internally lined with feather beds, to check 
the force of musketry^ This spot was soon surround- 
ed by the enemy, and a constant fire poured upon it in 
all directions. But the well directed shots of the be- 
sieged kept the Indians at a considerable distance. 
Various devices were used by the latter for burning the 
building ; but their plans were thwarted by the whites, 
aided by a. plentiful shower of rain. The attack con- 
tinued for three days ; when the appearance of a bo- 
dy of troops from Lancaster induced the Indians to 
seek their own safety in a precipitate retreat. All 
the buildings in the village except the one fortified, 
were destroyed. Only one of the inhabitants, howev- 
er, was killed ; while the loss of the Indians was 80. 

Leicester, 12 miles. The village contains an aca- 
demy, 3 churches and about 80 dwellings. The prin- 
cipal employment of the inhabitants is the manufac- 
ture of (woollen cards^; of which a very large amount 
is annually made. 



WORCESTER — BLACKSTONE CANAL. 355 

Worcester, (6 miles,) is one of the oldest and most 
respectable towns in the state. It contains from three 
to four hundred houses, generally well built. Here are 
also a bank, four printing offices, a court-house and a 
jail. A. newspaper which was commenced by Isaiah 
Thomas some time previous to the revolutionary war, 
is still published here, and is the oldest paper in the 
Union. Mr. Thomas, who has written an elaborate 
history of the art of printing, resides in the village, and 
has been created an honorary member of many litera- 
ry institutions in the United States. He has erected 
in the village, at very considerable expense, a hand- 
some building, for the reception of the library and cab- 
inet of the American Antiquarian Society, of which he 
is president. The library consists of about 6000 vol- 
umes, many of them of great antiquity, and the cabinet 
is also very valuable. 

The Blackstone Canal commences at this place, 
and extends to Providence, R. I. Length 45 miles — 
expense rising of $500,000. 

From Worcester to Boston the distance is 40 miles, 
over a beautiful road, which passes through a rich 
country, variegated with villages, which increase in size 
and importance as the tourist advances towards the 
metropolis of the state. 



FP 



S56 BOStON. 

BOSTON* 

Is pleasantly situated at the bottom of Massachu- 
setts Bay, on a peninsula of an uneven surface, two 
miles long, and in the widest part about one mile 
broad. The town owes its origin to a spirit of civil and 
religious liberty, which was excited to action by the 
persecutions that prevailed in England, during the 
reigns of Queen Elizabeth, and Kings James and Charles 
the First. Most of those who can properly be consid- 
ered SiS first settlers arrived prior to the year 1643. The 
place was first called Trimountain, in consequence of 
three hills which were on the peninsula. It was after- 
wards called Boston, in honor of the Rev. Mr. Cotton, 
a minister of the first church in the town, and whose 
native place was Boston in England. 

The harbor is one of the best in the United States. 
It has a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels 
at all times of tide, and is accessible at all seasons of 
the year. It is safe from every wind, and so capa- 
cious that it will allow 500 vessels to ride at anchor, 
while the entrance is so narrow as scarcely to admit 
two ships abreast. It contains about 75 square miles, 
within which are upwards of 100 islands or rocks ; and 
receives within its bosom the waters of the Mystic, 
Charles, Neponset and Manatticut rivers, besides sever- 
al streams of less magnitude. 



*Bowen's Picture of Boston, published by A. Bowen, 
No. 2, Congress street, will prove a valuable guide to 
strangers visiting that city and its environs. 



; BOSTON. 357 

Boston is very extensively engaged in commerce, and 
there are probably few cities in the world where there 
is so much wealth in proportion to the population. The 
trade, too, received from an extensive inland country is 
very great, the facilities for approaching the city being 
rendered easy by means of excellent roads. 

The appearance of Boston is much admired by stran- 
gers, particularly when approaching from the sea. Its 
streets do not exhibit so great a regularity as some oth- 
er cities ; but its beautiful location and elegant public 
and private buildings, together with its richly orna- 
mented grounds for promenading, render it altogether 
a peculiarly delightful and attractive place. 

The city is divided into four local districts, calfed, 
North Boston, West Boston, South End and South 
Boston. From Copp's Hill, in North Boston, which is 
partly occupied for a church yard, the British cannona- 
ded the town of Charlestown in 1775, during the battle 
of Bunker Hill, when the village was mostly destroyed 
by conflagration. 

In the south western part of the city, and in front of 
the state house, is the celebrated Common, presenting 
an area of more than 75 acres, containing the Mall, a 
very beautiful public walk, adorned with rows of trees. 
Tliis is a delightful promenade during the summer 
months, and is a place of general resort. In the cen- 
tre of the Common is an eminence still exhibiting 
marks of the fortification erected by the British here 
during the revolution ; north of which is the Crescent 
Pond, a beautiful sheet of water, surrounded with trees. 
Near the Mall, in Mason street, is the Medical college, 
an edifice belonging to the Harvard University, sur- 
mounted by a dome with a sky-Ught and balustrade. 



358 BOSTON. 

The Boston Alhmmm is located near the head of 
Pearl street, and is a very spacious building containing 
appropriate rooms. The number of volumes attached 
to the institution is about 25,000. It also contains 
nearly 14,000 medals and coins, some of which are very 
rare and interesting. The rooms are open from 8 A. M. 
to 9 P. M. and can be visited by strangers introduced 
by subscribers. 

The Gallery of Fine Arts is a handsome structure in the 
rear of the Atheneum, and'is appropriated for scientific 
lectures, the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the Mas- 
sachusetts Medical Library, a philosophical apparatus 
of the Mechanic Institution, and for paintings ; the lat- 
ter of which are exhibited in the upper story, and are 
generally very elegant. 

Among the other literary institutions in the city are 
the Massachusetts Historical Societij, who have an ex- 
tensive library in a spacious apartment over the arch 
in Franklin street : the Boston Library Society, who have 
a collection of 6000 volumes ; and the Columbian Li- 
brary, which contains about 4,500 volumes. There are 
also numerous other libraries of less note. Among the 
benevolent institutions, are the House of Industry at 
South Boston, of rough dimension stone, 220 feet long, 
and 43 wide; the Massachusetts General Hospital, 
founded in 1818, which has been richly endowed by the 
state and individuals ; and a Hospital for the Insane, 
the buildings of which are at Charlestown. 

The first houses built in the city were plain and the 
streets narrow and crooked ; but a few years have 
wrought a striking and almost incredible change ; new 
streets have been laid out, old ones straightened and 



BOSTON. 359 

improved, and neat brick and granite dwellings have 
been substituted for the ill-shapen and decaying houses 
of wood. The private buildings, and many of the 
stores recently erected, are more splendid than in any 
other city in the United States. In 1817, there was 
erected on each side of Market street, a block of brick 
stores more than 400 feet in length, and 4 stories high ; 
and on Central Wharf another immense pile of build- 
ings was completed the same year, 1240 feet long, con- 
taining 54 stores 4 stories high, having a spacious hall 
in the centre, over which is erected an elegant obser- 
vatory. Other costly works have been constructed 
which do honor to the town ; but the project which 
exceeded them all in boldness of design, in promise ot 
public benefit, and in energy of execution, is that 
which within three or four years has been accomplish- 
ed in the vicinity of Fanueil Hall Market. The exten- 
sive rows of granite stores, four stories high, construct- 
ed after the best model, bound this newly perfected en- 
terprise. Between these two ranges of stores, stands 
the new Market House, at the distance of 102 feet 
from those on the south side, and sixty-five feet from 
the north. The centre part of the building is 74 
by 55 feet, having a hall in the second story. The 
wings are each 231 feet long by 50 wide, and two sto- 
ries high. They have each a portico of four columns, 
23 feet high ; the shafts of granite, in a single piece. 
The construction of the whole is of hammered granite 
of a uniform color. 

Among the public buildings are the State House, 
which is built on elevated ground, commanding a fine 

view of the surrounding country, and containing an el- 
ff2 



360 BOSTON. 

egant statue of Washington, which cost $15,000 ; the 
new county Court-House, built of stone at an expense 
of $92,000 ; the municipal Court-House ; a new stone 
Jail ; Fanueil Hall, where all public meetings of the 
citizens are held ; two Theatres, one of which (the Tre- 
mont) was erected in 1827, at a cost of about $120,000, 
being 135 feet in length and about SO in breadth, the 
front of Hallowell and Quincy granite, in imitation of the 
Ionic order, with four pilastres supporting an entabla- 
ture and pediment, and elevated on a basement of 17 
feet ; the Custom-House, Merchant's Hall, Boylston 
Market and Boylston Hall ; U. S. Branch Bank ; Con- 
cert, Julian, Corinthian, Pantheon, Washington and 
Cliauncy Halls. 

Bridges. — There are six bridges connecting Boston 
with the adjacent towns. Charles River bridge, which 
connects it with Charleston on the north, 1503 feet 
long ; West Boston bridge, connecting it Avith Cam- 
bridge Port on the west, 7810 feet long; Cragie's or 
Canal bridge, between these two, connects it with 
Lechmere Point, 2796 feet long ; and two bridges unit- 
ing it to South Boston. The other avenue is a mill 
dam, nearly two miles long and fifty feet wide, across 
the bay on the southwest side of the city ; which not 
orl" furnishes a bridge, but puts in operation extensive 
tide-mills and other water woi'ks. 

Churches. — There are nearly 50 churches in Boston, 
many of which have been built at great expense, and 
are very elegant. On one of the quoins at the south- 
west corner of the Brattle street church, of which Gov. 
Hancock was a benefactor, his name had been inscrib- 
ed ', but it was effaced by the British soldiery during 



BOSTON. 361 

the revolution, and the stone has been permitted to re- 
main as they left it. A shot from the Americans on 
the night previous to the evacuation of Boston by the 
British still remains in the tower where it originally 
struck. In St. Paul's church, in Common street, there 
is an elegant monument to the memory of Gen. War- 
ren, who was slain on Bunker Hill, and whose remains 
are entombed in the cemetery beneath this church. 

Burial Grounds. — In the Chapel burial ground, north 
of the stone chapel, there are several ancient monu- 
ments ; and among others that of Gov. Winthrop, who 
died in 1649. In the Copp^s Hill ground similar memen- 
toes of antiquity are found. In the Granary ground, the 
cenotaph erected to the memory of Doct. Frankhn 
stands over the tomb, in which repose the remains of 
both his parents. The tombs of Governors Bellingham, 
Sumner and Sullivan are also in this ground. 

The ^eiO'Eiigland Museum, in Court street, is prob- 
ably the best in the U. States, and should be visited by 
every stranger before leaving the city. 

Hotels. — Tremont House is the most superb hotel in 
Boston, and not inferior to any in the Union. It is 
three stories high in front and four on the wings, ex- 
clusive of the basement. The front and two circular 
ends facing Beacon street, and the open ground south 
of the building, are of Quincy granite, and surmounted 
by an entablature, supported by antes at each extrem- 
ity. The portico, which is of the same material, is 37 
feet long by 7 feet in width, and 25 feet high. Four 
fluted columns support the roof of the portico, the pro- 
portions of which are copied from those of the Doric 
portico at Athens, with the exception that the portico 



362 BOSTON. 

of the Tremont House is di-triglyph, the inter columni'' 
ations being nearly equal. The whole number of rooms 
is one hundred and eighty ; and the principal entrance 
is nearly opposite the Tremont theatre. From the look- 
out above the roof of this structure, an extensive and 
beautiful landscape, comprising a view of the harbor 
and the amphitheatre of hills to the west, and of the 
towns of Charlestown and Chelsea to the north, pre- 
sents itself. 

The other principal public houses are the Exchange 
Coffee House, an excellent establishment, Marlboro' 
Hotel, Earl's Coffee House, Commercial Coffee House, 
City Tavern, Merchant's Hotel, Indian Queen Tavern 
and La Fayette Hotel. 

The Hancock House, the former residence of Gov. 
Hancock, is still in good preservation in Beacon street, 
near the state house. There are also several ancient 
buildings in the vicinity of Ann street and Market 
square ; in one of which, opposite the Golden Key, a 
relative of Doct. Franklin formerly resided, to whom 
he was in the habit of paying frequent visits. 

The population of Boston in 1742 was 16,528; it is 
now not much short of 80,000. 

The number of stage coaches which regularly leave 
Boston, is much larger than that of any other place in 
the Union. There are between eighty and ninety dis- 
tinct lines of stages ; which, according to their estab- 
lished arrangements, not including extras, make about 
125 departures and as many arrivals daily, or more 
than 1500 departures and arrivals each week. For the 
benefit of public houses and travellers, a Stage Regis- 
ter is published, once in two months, by Messrs. Badg- 



Q.UINCY. 365 

er and Porter, 81 Court street, containing an account 
of the principal lines of stages, steam boats and canal 
packets in New England and New York. 

The country around Boston is the admiration of ev- 
ery traveller of taste. The view from the dome of the 
state house surpasses any thing of the kind in this 
country, and is not excelled by that from the castle hill 
of Edinburgh, or that of the Bay of Naples from the 
castle of St. Elmo. Here may be seen at one view, 
the shipping, the harbor, variegated with islands and 
alive with business ; Charles river and its beautiful 
country, ornamented with elegant private mansions ; 
and more than twenty flourishing towns. The hills 
are finely cultivated, and rounded by the hand of na- 
ture with singular felicity. 

QuiNCT is 10 miles from Boston, in a southerly direc- 
tion. About half a mile northwest of the village is the 
mansion of the late John Adams, the second president 
of the U. States. His remains and those of his wife 
repose beneath the new church at Quincy, within 
which a handsome monument to their memory has been 
erected by the late President, John Quincy Adams, 
with a suitable inscription. 

The southwest part of the town is mostly composed 
of inexhaustible beds of granite, for the transportation 
of which a rail-way has been constructed from the 
beds to tide water, 3 miles long. For a great part of 
the distance it is on an inclination of one and a half 
inch to the rod, and the ordinary load drawn by a 
horse is between S and 9 tons. It will be found an ob- 
ject worthy the attention of strangers. 



364 DORCHESTER — CHaRLESTOWN. 

Dorchester, is an ancient town, about 4 1-2 miles 
south of Boston, having been settled in 1630. The 
roads are numerous and crooked, but mostly level and 
kept in good repair. Many fine country seats and sub- 
stantial farm houses are thickly arranged on their sides. 
They have a town house, three congregational churches, 
and one for methodists. The population is about 4000. 
The peninsula, called Dorchester Neck, borders on Bos- 
ton harbor, and a part of it is incorporated with the 
town of Boston. Sarin Hill, in this town, is a place of 
considerable resort, and the peninsula of Squantum is 
famous for its yearly feast of shells. 

Brighton, 5 miles west of Boston, was formerly a 
part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and 
Brookline. Here is held the famous Cattle Fair, which 
was commenced during the revolutionary war, and has 
been increasing in importance ever since. Most of the 
cattle for the supply of the Boston market are b'Vought 
in droves to this place'-; often from 2 to 8000 a week ; 
every Monday is the fair day, when the dealers resort 
thither to make their purchases. 

Watertown is on Charles river, 7 miles northwest 
from Boston, and is the seat of several extensive man- 
ufacturing establishments. The United States have an 
Arsenal established in this town. Fresh Ponds, one of 
the most enchanting retreats in the vicinity of the me- 
tropolis, lies partly in this town and partly in Cam- 
bridge. 

Cambridge, 2 miles west of Boston. {See p. 328.) 
Charlestown, is a place of singular shape, extend- 
ing in a northwesterly direction from Boston harbor, 



URSULIKE CONVENT. 365 

about 9 miles in length, and not averaging a breadth of 
one mile, and in some parts it is not a quarter of a mile 
wide. The compact part of the town is situated on a 
peninsula next to Boston and is laid out in regular 
streets. Charlestown contains a population of near 
7000. It has five houses of public worship, a spacious 
alms house, and a handsome market house. Besides 
Charles River and Prison Point bridges which connect 
this town with Boston, there is Chelsea bridge on the 
Salem turnpike, and Maiden bridge, both over the Mys- 
tick river. Breed's Hill and Bunker's Hill both lie 
within this peninsula ; the former is 62 feet in height, 
the latter 110 feet. The U. S. Navy Yard, in this town, 
consists of about 60 acres of land, on which are built a 
large brick ware house, several arsenals, magazines for 
various kinds of stores, and a large brick mansion 
house for the superintending officer. The State Prison 
is at the west end of the town, and is built of granite, 
200 feet by 44, of 5 stories. Extensive additions to the 
buildings were made in 1827. The Massachusetts In- 
sane Hospital is delightfully situated upon Pleasant 
Hill, on the west side of the town. 

The Ursuline Convent, is on Mount Benedict, 
about 2 1-2 miles from Boston', commanding one of the 
most rich and variegated prospects in the United States. 
The plan of education pursued here is very extensive, 
embracing all those attainments which are considered 
necessary, useful or ornamental in society. Adjoining 
the establishment, is a garden beautifully laid out, to 
which the young ladies always have access. Besides 
this, they are allowed, on days of recreation, to extend 
their walks over the whole farm, attended however by 
one or more of their instructors. 



366 breed's hill. 

Breed's Hill is situated one fourth of a mile north- 
east of Charlestown, and affords a pleasant prospect of 
Boston, (3 miles distant,) the harbor, Cambridge and 
its colleges, and of an extensive tract of highly culti- 
vated country. 

In the month of May, after the battle of Lexington, it 
was conjectured from the movements of the British 
army that Gen. Gage intended to penetrate into the 
country. It was accordingly decided by the provincial 
congress to attempt a defence of Dorchester Neck, and 
to occupy Bunker's Hill, just within the peninsula on 
which Charlestown stands. A detachment of 1000 
men, under Col. Prescot, proceeded to execute these 
orders, but by some mistake. Breed's Hill, situated on 
the farther part of the peninsula, was selected for the 
proposed entrenchments. 

The party under Col. Prescot proceeded in their 
work with so much diligence and secrecy, that by the 
dawn of day, they had thrown up a square redoubt of 
about 40 yards on each side. Day-light discovered 
this new work to the British, and a heavy cannonade 
was commenced upon it from the shipping in the river. 
The fire was borne with firmness by the Americans, 
and did not prevent them from soon constructing a 
breast work, which extended from the redoubt to the 
bottom of the hill. 

" As this eminence overlooked Boston, Gen. Gage 
thought it necessary to drive the provincials from it. 
To effect this object, he detached Major General Howe, 
and Brigadier General Pigot, at the head often compa- 
nies of grenadiers, and the same number of light in- 
fantry, with a proper proportion of field artillery. 



breed's hill. 367 

These troops landed at Moreton's Point, where they 
immediately formed ; but perceiving the Americans to 
wait for them with firmness, they remained on their 
ground until the success of the enterprize should be 
rendered secure by the arrival of a reinforcement 
from Boston, for which General Howe had applied. 
During this interval the Americans also were rein- 
^~^orced by a body of their countrymen led by Generals 
Warren and Pomeroy ; and they availed themselves of 
this delay, to increase their security by pulling up some 
adjoining post and rail fences, and arranging them in 
two parallel lines at a small distance from each other ; 
the space between which they filled up with hay, so as 
to form a complete cover from the musketry of the en- 
emy. • 

" On being joined by their second detachment, the 
British troops, who were formed in two lines, advanced 
slowly under cover of a very heavy discharge of cannon 
and howitzers, frequently halting in order to allow 
their artillery time to demolish the works. While they 
were advancing, orders were given to set fire to 
Charlestown, a handsome village containing about 500 
houses which flanked their line of march. The build- 
ings were chiefly of wood, and the flames were quick- 
ly communicated so extensively, that almost the whole 
town was in one great blaze. 

" It is not easy to conceive a more grand and a more 
awful spectacle than was now exhibited ; nor a mo- 
ment of more anxious expectation than that which was 
now presented. The scene of action was in full view 
of the heights of Boston and of its neighborhood, which 
were covered with spectators taking deep and opposite 

66 



368 breed's hjll. 

interests in the events passing before them. The sol- 
diers of the two hostile armies not on duty, the citizens 
of Boston, and the inhabitants of the adjacent country, 
all feeling emotions which set description at defiance, 
were witnesses of the majestic and tremendous scene. 

" The provincials permitted the enemy to approach 
unmolested within less than one hundred yards of their 
works, when they poured in upon them so deadly a fire 
of small arms that the British line was totally broken, 
and fell back with precipitation towards the landing 
place. By the very great exertions of their officers 
they were rallied, and brought up to the charge, but 
were again driven back in confusion by the heavy and 
incessant fire from the works. General Howe is said 
to have been left at one time almost alone, and it is 
certain that very few officers about bis person escaped 
unhurt. 

" The impression to be made by victory or defeat, 
in this early stage of the war, was deemed of the ut- 
most consequence ; and therefore very extraordinary 
exertions were made once more to rally the English. 
With great difficulty, they were a third time led up to 
the works. The redoubt was now attacked on three 
sides at once, while some pieces of artillery, which had 
been brought to bear on the breast work, raked it from 
end to end. The cross fire too, from the ships and 
floating batteries, not only annoyed the works on 
Breed's hill, but deterred any considerable reinforce- 
ments from passing into the peninsula, and coming to 
their assistance. The ammunition of the Americans 
was now so nearly exhausted, that they were no longer 
able to keep up the same incessant stream of fire, 



BUNKERHILL HILL MONUMENT. 369 

which had twice repulsed the enemy ; and on this third 
attempt, the redoubt, the walls of which the English 
mounted with ease, was carried at the point of the 
bayonet. Yet the Americans, many of whom were 
without bayonets, are said to have maintained the 
contest with clubbed muskets, until the redoubt was 
half filled with the king's troops. 

"The redoubt being lost, the breast work which had 
been defended with equal courage and obstinacy, was 
necessarily abandoned ; and the very hazardous opera- 
tion undertaken, of retreating, in the face of a victori- 
ous enemy, over Charlestown neck ; where they were 
exposed to the same cross fire from the Glasgow man 
of war and two floating batteries, which had deterred 
the reinforcements ordered to their aid from coming to 
their assistance, and had probably prevented their re- 
ceiving proper supplies of ammunition." 

The number of British troops engaged in this action 
was about 3000, and their loss in killed and wounded 
was 1050. The American force has been variously 
stated, from 1500 to 4000 ; and their loss, in killed, 
wounded and missing, amounted to 450. General 
Warren was among the number of the slain, and a 
handsome monument now marks the spot where he 
fell. The spot of ground on which this monument 
stands, was recently purchased by Dr. J. C. Warren, of 
Boston, a nephew of the lamented General, for the 
purpose, it is said, of preserving uninjured the few re- 
maining traces of the memorable battle of '75. 

The corner stone of the Bunker Hill Monument 
now erecting on Breed's Hill, was laid on the 15th of 
Juno, 1825 : on which occasion the Marquis La Fay- 



370 NAUANT. 

ette was present. The depth, however, proving insuf- 
ficient, the foundation was subsequently re-laid ; and 
though the work has progressed slowly, owing to a 
want of funds, it is believed the whole will be com- 
pleted within one or two years. The Quincy granite 
is used for its structure. Its base is 50 feet m diame- 
ter, and its height is to be 220 feet. 

Fort Independence, is situated on an island at the 
outlet of Boston harbor, 3 miles distant ; opposite to 
which is Governor's Island, containing a fort erected 
during the late war. These two forts command the 
entrance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight 
miles below the light house, at the north-east extrem- 
ity of the channel, where vessels enter the Atlantic. 

NAHANT, 

Is a peninsula running three or four miles into the 
sea, and is situated fifteen miles north-easterly from 
Boston. It is approached from the town of Lynn over 
a beautiful beach of a mile and a half in length. At 
the extremity of this beach, commences the peninsula, 
which is about two miles in length, and in some parts 
half a mile broad, although its shores are extremely ir- 
regular, and indented with small bays worn into the 
rocks by the unceasing action of the waves. 

The surface is uneven, rising in some places to the 
elevation of sixty or seventy feet above the level of 
the sea. The shore is very bold, and presents on all 
sides, a grand embankment of broken massy rocks. 
At several points these rocks are worn into fantastic 
shapes, and at the time of high tide, or a swell of the 
sea, the roar and foam of the waters among themj pre- 



NAHANT. 37 i 

aents a most interesting spectacle, which is contempla- 
ted by the quiet observer, seated on the summit a- 
bove, with awe and admiration. The whole expanse 
of the ocean spreads out towards the east, and after a 
storm, the rolling waves come pouring in their im- 
mense burden upon these rocks, with such a power, 
sublimity and uproar of contending elements, as can 
hardly be conceived by any one who has not witnessed 
the scene. And again when the sea is tranquil, it may 
be seen covered with shipping of all sizes, as far as the 
eye can extend, moving in different directions up and 
down the coast, and exhibiting an animating picture of 
the industry and activity of commerce. In short, for 
picturesque beauty and sublimity of scenery, as well as 
for the many advantages arising from its peculiar local 
situation, this place is not surpassed by any on the 
coast. 

Besides a view of the ocean, Nahant presents a 
great variety of other interesting prospects. On one 
side is seen the village of Lynn, Swanscut, Phillips' 
Beach, Marblehead, Egg Rock, Baker's Island, and 
the north shore as far as the highland of Cape Ann ; 
on the other, Charlestown, Boston the islands in Bos- 
ton harbor, part of Dorchester, Braintree, Nantucket 
and Sciiuate, with the light-houses of Boston, Scituate 
and Baker's Island, forming together a panorama hard- 
ly to be equalled in beauty or variety. 

The peninsula extends farther into the sea than any 

other head land in the bay. It is distant from the 

nearest island in Boston harbor, to the south, seven 

miles — from the nearest point of the south shore, about 

twelve miles — from the north shore between two and 

gg2 



SI 2 NAHANT. 

three miles. It is on this side connected wth the 
main land by a beach a few rods wide. Thus insulat- 
ed and surrounded by water, Nahant enjoys a cUmate 
and temperature very cool, and, comparatively, very 
equable — a circumstance of much importance to the 
invalid, and which will detemiine the choice of a great 
portion of those who annually leave the city for the 
purpose of health or amusement. 

Accommodations for visitors have lately been multi- 
plied and greatly improved. A spacious and elegant 
stone edifice has been erected as a Hotel, near the ex- 
tremity of the peninsula, in a very commanding and 
pleasant situation. This building contains 70 cham- 
bers, constructed on a plan of pecuUar convenience, 
both for famihes and single persons. The dining hall 
is sufficiently spacious to accommodate 150 persons at 
table, besides which there are drawing rooms and pri- 
vate parlors. Large and commodious stables are ap- 
pended to the Hotel ; and a bathing house for warm 
and cold baths, and floating baths for those who may 
prefer the bracing action of sea water, make a part of 
the establishment. The Hotel is surrounded by piaz- 
zas, which afford a most delightful prospect in every 
direction, and receive the cool and refreshing breezes 
every part of the day. In a small village, a quarter of a 
mile from the Hotel, are several private boarding hous- 
es, where every accommodation can be had for invalids 
and for those who seek retirement. Numerous cot- 
tages, too, have been erected by several individuals 
for the purpose of affording more extensive and ele- 
gant accommodations to those who may pass the sum- 
mer in this delightful place of residence. 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 373 

Nahant has many amusements. Angling with the 
rod may be enjoyed as a pleasant recreation, standing 
on the rocks ; and those who would try their skill in 
decoying larger prey, may go out in boats, which are 
always in readiness, and furnished with suitable appara- 
tus. Game, too, is abundant in the vicinity. But there 
are few amusements or pleasures superior to that of 
riding, at suitable hours of the day, on the beach. 

A beautiful building, in imitation of a Grecian temple, 
has been erected on an eminence, near the Hotel, in 
which are two elegant billiard rooms. There are also 
convenient covered bowling alleys, and such other 
means of amusement as are usually connected with the 
most extensive and elegant estabUshments at watering 
places. 

On the whole, the proximity of Nahant to Boston — 
its facility of access — the beauty and grandeur of its 
scenery — and above all, the singular local advantages 
it affords for invigorating the constitution, the salubrity 
and bracing tone of its atmosphere, and the excellent 
accommodations it offers to visitors — will undoubtedly 
make it a place of general resort during the summer 
months, from all parts of the United States. 

FORTS AROUND BOSTON, 

Erected during the revolution. 
The fortifications which were thrown up around Bos- 
ton, which held a British army besieged during eleven 
months of the revolution, and which finally compelled 
them to carry their arms and warfare into other lands, 
will always be regarded as objects of interest by every 
stranger visiting that section of .country. Many of 



374 PORTS AHOUND BOSTON. 

these works are still in fine preservation, while others 
have become defaced by the hand of time, or have beea 
removed to give place to modern improvements. The 
following description of those remaining is extracted 
from Silliman's Journal, and will prove a guide to stran- 
gers in determining their localities : 

Jit Breed's Hill, that blood-stained field, the redoubt 
thrown up by the Americans is nearly effaced ; scarce- 
ly the slightest trace of it remains ; but the entrench- 
ment, which extended from the redoubt to the marsh, is 
still marked by a slight elevation of the ground. The 
redoubt thrown up by the British on the summit of the 
hill, may be easily distinguished. 

Bunker Hill. The remains of the British fort are 
visible, the works must have been very strong, and oc- 
cupied a large extent of ground — they are on the sum- 
mit and slope of the hill looking towards the peninsula. 

Ploughed Hill. The works upon this hill were com- 
menced by the Americans on the night of August 26th, 
1775, and received more fire from the British than any 
of the other forts ; in a few days more than three hun- 
dred shells were fired at these fortifications. A small 
part of the rampart remains, but the whole loill is sur- 
rounded by the mounds and fosse of the ancient fort, 
which has been nearly obliterated. 

Cobble or BarreWs Hill was fortified, and occupied as 
a strong post, in the war of the revolution, by General 
Putnam, and, in consequence of its strength, was call- 
ed Putnam's impregnable fortress. It was commenced 
on the night of November 22d ; and the activity of its 
fire is well known to those who have studied the de- 
tails of the siege of Boston. This fort has been de-. 
stroyed ; but the position is easily identified. 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 375 

Lechmere Point Redoubt, one hundred yards from 
West Boston bridge, displays more science in its con- 
struction, and has a wider and deeper fosse than most 
of the other fortifications. It was commenced on Dec. 
11th, 1775, and it was several days before it was com- 
pleted, during which time it was much exposed to the 
fire of the Engligh in Boston, Two or three soldiers of 
the revolutionary army were killed at this redoubt, and 
the Prunus virginiana, with its red berries, marks the 
spot where they were probably interred. Upon one 
angle of the fort where the cannon were pointed with 
most destructive effect, a church is now erected. 

A causeway made across the marsh, the covered 
way which crosses the brow of the hill, and the lines 
which flanked Willis' Creek, are still perfect, and may 
be traced with great facility. 

Winter Hill Fort appears to have been the most ex- 
tensive, and the entrenchments more numerous, than 
any of the other positions of the American army. The 
fort on the hill is almost entirely destroyed; only a 
small part of the rampart still remains perfect. 

A redoubt situated upon Ten Hill Farm, which com- 
manded the navigation of the Mystic river, is complete, 
as are also some slight entrenchments near. 

A redoubt, situated between Winter and Prospect 
Hill, has been completely carried away, and a quarry 
has been opened on the spot. In the general orders, 
issued at Cambridge, guards were directed to be sta- 
tioned at White House Redoubt, and this it is beheved 
was the post intended. General Lee is said to have 
had his head quarters in a farm house immediately in 
the rear of this redoubt. 



376 FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

Prospect Hill has two eminences, both of which were 
strongly fortified, and connected by a rampart and 
fosse ; about two hundred yards are quite entire ; they 
are ornamented with the aster, sohdago, rosa, &c. ; and 
those who feel any curiosity about these lines, will be 
much gratified by the view here afforded. The forts 
on these hills were destroyed only a few years ago, but 
their size can be distinctly seen. On the southern em- 
inence a part of the fort is still entire, and the south- 
west face of the hill is divided into several platforms. 
There are also evident marks of the dwellings of the 
soldiers. The extensive view from this hill, the walk 
on the ancient ramparts, and the sight of the various 
stations occupied by the American army will render 
this spot, at a future period, a favorite resort. 

The Cambridge Lines, situated upon Butler's, Hill ap- 
pear to have consisted of six regular forts, connected 
by a strong entrenchment. The most northerly of 
these forts is perfect. With the exception of one of its 
angles destroyed by the road, it appears as if just quit- 
ted by the army of America ; its bastions are entire, the 
outline is perfect, and it seems a chef 5'oeuvre of the 
military art. 

A square fort may be seen near the southern extrem- 
ity of these lines, in fine preservation ; it is in a field 
within two hundred yards of the road to Cambridge. 
The eastern rampart is lower than the others, and the 
gateway with its bank of earth still remains. 

The second Line of Defence may be traced on the col- 
lege green at Cambridge, but its proximity to the pub- 
lic halls may have produced some inconvenience, and 
it has been carefully destroyed. 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 377 

^ semicircular battery, with three embrasures, on the 
northern shore of Charles river, near its entrance into 
the bay, is in a perfect state of preservation. It is rath- 
er above the level of the marsh, and those who would 
wish to see it, should pass on the road to Cambridge 
until they arrive at a cross road which leads to the 
bank of the river ; by following the course of the 
stream, they may arrive at this battery without cross- 
ing the marsh, which is its northern boundary and dif- 
ficult to pass. 

Brookline Fort, or, as it is called in the annals of the 
revolution, the fort on Sewall's Point, was very exten- 
sive, and would be still perfect, were it not for the road 
which divides it into two nearly equal parts. With this 
exception, the ramparts and an irregular bastion, which 
commanded the entrance of Charles river, are entire. 
The fort was nearly quadrangular, and the fortifications 
stronger than many of the other positions of the Ame- 
rican army. 

•^ Baiterxj, on the southern shore of Muddy river, 
with three embrasures, is only slightly injured. 

Forts at Roxbury. The lower fort at Roxbury ap- 
pears to have been the earliest erected, and by its ele- 
vation commanded the avenue to Boston over the pe- 
ninsula, and prevented the advance of the English 
troops in that direction. It is of the most irregular 
form, the interior occupies about two acres of ground, 
and as the hill is bare of soil, the places may still be 
seen whence the earth was taken to form the ramparts. 
This fortification has not been at all injured, and the 
embrasures may still be noticed where the cannon 
were placed which fired upon the advanced lines of the 
enemy. 



378 PORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

On a higher eminence of the same hill is situated a 
quadrangular fort, built on the summit of the rock, and 
being perhaps their first attempt at regular fortifica- 
tion, it was considered by the militia of unparalleled 
strength, and excited great confidence in that wing of 
the army stationed at Roxbury, 

The Roxbury lines, about three quarters of a mile in 
advance of the forts, and two hundred yards north of 
the town, are still to be seen on the eastern side of the 
peninsula, and may be distinguished by any person go- 
ing by the nearest road to Dorchester, over Lamb's dam. 

At this period it may be proper to mention the British 
fortifications. The lines situated upon the Neck may 
be seen to great advantage on the western side of the 
isthmus, about a quarter of a mile south of the green 
stores. There appear to have been two lines of en- 
trenchments carried quite across the peninsula, and 
the fosse, which was filled at high water, converted 
Boston into an island. The mounds, ramparts and 
wide ditches which remain, attest the strength of the 
original works. The small battery on the common, 
erected by the British, may perhaps remain for a long 
period of years, as a memorial of ancient times. 

The Dorchester Lines. Of these, some very slight 
traces may be distinguished. 

F(yrts on Dorchester Heights. We now hasten to the 
last forts, the erection of which terminated the contest 
in this portion of the eastern states of America. It is 
to be regretted that the entrenchments thrown up by 
the army of the revolution, on the heights of Dorches- 
ter, are almost entirely obliterated by the erection of 
two now forts in the late war. But some traces of the 



I 



PROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 379 

ancient works may be seen on both hills ; the old forts 
were constructed with more skill, and display more 
science than the recent works, the ramparts of which 
are even now falling down ; and we would gladly see 
them destroyed if from their ruins the ancient works 
could re-appear. 

A noble octagonal fort and two batteries, which 
may be seen in perfect preservation upon the prom- 
ontory, were erected after the departure of the Eng- 
lish from Boston. The fort is situated at the point ; one 
battery is in the rear of the House of Industry, whose 
inmates will probably soon destroy it, and the other 
upon a rising ground immediately below the heights of 
Dorchester. 

At J^ook Hill, near South Boston bridge, maybe seen 
the last breast- work which was thrown up by the for- 
ces of America during this arduous contest. Its ap- 
pearance on the morning of March 17, 1776, induced 
the departure of the British troops from Boston in a few 
hours, and thus placed the seal to the independence of 
the New-England states. But those who would wish to 
see this entrenchment must visit it soon. The enemy 
have attacked it on three sides, and are proceeding by 
sap and by mine ; part of the fosse is already destroyed, 
and the rampart nods to its fall. 

FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND, (Maine.) 
A stage leaves Boston daily at 8 A. M. (Sundays ex- 
cepted,) reaching Newbury port at 1 P. M. and Ports- 
mouth, N. H. at 5. Leaves Portsmouth the next morn- 
ing at 8, and reaches Portland at 5 P. M. Distance, 

HH 



S30 LYNN — SALEM. 

120 miles — fare %Q. The intervening distances arc as 
follows : 



Miles. 

Lynn,* 9 

Salem,* 5 

Newburyport, 24 

Portsmouth, 24 



Miles. 

York, 9 

Kennebunk, 24 

Saco, 10 

Portland, 15 



Lynn is a large township, with a population of be- 
tween 4 and 5000. It contains 6 churches, and many 
large manufacturing establishments for ladies' shoes, 
which are sent to the southern states and the West In- 
dies. The Lynn beach connects the peninsula of Na- 
hant with the main land. 

This is one of the oldest towns in New-England, and 
several records of its early history have been recently 
collected and published in Boston. The author has giv- 
en a mass of interesting facts and occurrences of "olden 
time," furnishing altogether a curious compendium, 
not only to antiquarians and the immediate descend- 
ants of the first settlers of that place, but to readers of 
every class and section of the country. All the quaint- 
ness and original simplicity of the original language 
has been preserved, and such remarks of the compiler 
introduced as are necessary to explain the meaning or 
increase the interest. 

Salem is considered the second town in New-Eng- 
land in commerce, w^ealth and population. It is located 
on a peninsula formed by two inlets of the sea, called 
North and South rivers. On the opposite side of North 



* These places are not on the direct route from Bos- 
ton to Newburyport ; but it is, nevertheless, recommend- 
ed to travellers to pass through them. 



NEWBURYPORT — PORTSMOUTH. 381 

river is the town of Beverly, to which a bridge leads, 
1500 feet in length. Marblehead is on the opposite 
side of South river, which forms the harbor, defended 
by two forts. Salem contains a court house, S banks, 
an atheneum, a museum, an orphan asylum and 17 
churches. The Square, near the centre of the town, is 
a beautiful tract of ground ; and is surrounded by nu- 
merous elegant private dwellings. 

Salem was settled as early as 1626. Its Indian name 
was Naumkeag. In 1692, and for some time after- 
wards, several of its inhabitants became a prey to the 
greatest credulity and bigotry. Its prison was crowd- 
ed with persons accused of witchcraft, many of whom 
paid their life as a forfeit for their supposed crimes. 
The present population of the town is from 12 to 15,000. 

Newburyport is handsomely situated on the south 
bank of the Merrimack river, three miles from its mouth, 
rising on a gradual acclivity from the water. The streets 
are wide, and intersect each other at right angles ; and 
many of the houses are elegant. The court-house, 
standing at the head of one of the principal streets lead- 
ing from the river, adds much to the beauty of the 
place. The village contains 2 banks, 7 churches and 
7,000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable trade ; 
though it suffered much during the restrictive system, 
previous to the last war. 

Portsmouth is the largest town and only seaport 
in New-Hampshire. It is located on the south side of 
the Piscataqua river, 2 miles from its mouth. The 
town contains 5 banks, an atheneum, an asylum for 
females, an alms-house, custom-house and 7 churches. 
A bridge, 2371 feet long, crosses the river at this place 



0»2 PORTLAND. 

to Kittery, Me. on the opposite side. On an island be- 
tween the two places is a navy yard. The town is 
handsome in its appearance, is a place of considerable 
trade, and contains a population of about 8000. 

In 1695, this place was assaulted by a party of In- 
dians, and 14 of its inhabitants killed, one scalped, who 
recovered, and four taken prisoners. After burning 
several houses, the Indians retreated through what is 
called the great sioamp. They were, however, overta- 
ken the next morning by a company of mihtia, dispers- 
ed, and the prisoners retaken. 

After leaving Portsmouth, the villages of York, Wel- 
les, Kennebunk and Saco, are successively passed, be- 
fore reaching Portland ; affording very little to interest, 
if we except an old fort about 3 miles and a half north 
east of Welles, and the falls at Saco, on the river of 
that name, which rises in the White Mountains of New- 
Hampshire. These falls are about 30 feet, and afford 
facilities for extensive manufacturing operations. 

Portland, the capital of Maine, and a port of entry, 
is a beautiful town, located on a peninsula projecting 
into Casco bay. This peninsula has two prominences ; 
on one of which stands several elegant dwelling houses, 
and on the other an observatory. The harbor is safe, 
well defended, and has a light-house at its entrance. 
Among the public buildings in the town are an elegant 
court-house, a jail, custom-house, 2 banks, an academy, 
atheneum and 10 churches. Population, upwards of 
9,000. From the observatory, an extensive prospect is 
had of the ocean and of the country at the north-west, 
terminated by the White Mountains, On Bang's and 
House Islands, at the entrance of the harbor, are Forts 



FROM PORTLAND TO ttUKBEC. 885 

Preble and Scammel. At the east, 82 miles distant, is 
seen the light-house at the mouth of the Kennebec riv- 
er, with a great variety of islands intervening. West 
of the observatory is Fort Sumner, on a hill, with seve- 
ral intrenchments made during the revolutionary war. 

Portland (then called Falmouth) was nearly laid in 
ruins in Oct. 1775. The inhabitants were required by 
Capt. Mowatt, of the British sloop of war Canceau, to 
surrender their arms ; and on a refusal, he commenced 
a bombardment of the town, which lasted 9 hours, re- 
sulting in a destruction of 130 houses, three fourths of 
the whole number. 

Stages leave Portland three times a week for the 
White Mountains in New- Hampshire, {seep. 341,) pass- 
ing through Westbrook, Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, 
Hiram, Brownsfield and Fryeburgh to Conway, which 
they reach at evening. Distance 62 miles — fare $3. 
From Conway, a stage leaves on Monday and Thurs- 
day mornings, passing through Bartlett, Hart's Loca- 
tion, over the Avalanches at the Notch of the White 
Mountains, through Nash and Swain's Location, Brit- 
ton woods and Bethlehem to Littleton on the Connec- 
ticut river. Distance 48 miles — fare $3. [Littleton is 
17 miles below Lancaster, 100 miles north of Con- 
cord, N. H. and is located at the mouth and falls of the 
Ammonoosuc river. See p. 334.] 

FROM PORTLAND TO QUEBEC— 258 miles. 

A new road is now forming from Portland to Quebec, 
principally over the route pursued by Gen. Arnold and 
his troops in 1775, previous to the assault of that place 
by Gen. Montgomery. The completion of this road 
will frequently induce strangers to take the state of 
hh2 



334 NOUTH YARMOUTH BRUNSWICK. 

Maine, as well as Montreal, in their route to or from 
Quebec. 

The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 
lows ; 



MUes. 

Bloomfield, 7 

Norridgework, 5 

Anson, 11 

Dead River, 20 

Forks of Kennebeck 15 

River, 15 

Moose River, 24 

Chaudiere River, .... 37 
Quebec, 60 



Miles. 
From Portland to North 

Yarmouth, , 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bowdointown, 13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta, 3 

Sidney, 12 

Waterville, 5 

Fairfield, 4 

North Yarmouth, 12 miles north of Portland, is lo- 
cated on Casco bay, about 35 miles from the ocean, 
and is a village of some magnitude, containing 4 
churches, an academy and about 4000 inhabitants. 
The bay affords fine anchorage for vessels, and the sur- 
rounding country is picturesque and interesting. 

Freeport, 6 miles farther, is at the head of Casco 
bay, and contains a population of about 2500 inhabi- 
tants. 

Brunswick, 9 miles. The village, which is peculiar- 
ly pleasant, is situated on the southwest bank of the 
Androscoggin river, at the falls, which furnish val- 
uable seats for mills and manufactories. Bmodoin col- 
lege, at this place, is located on an elevated and beauti- 
ful plain, enjoying a rich and diversified view of the 
river and surrounding country. The college originally 
received a donation of $10,000 from the late James D. 
Bowdoin, Esq. and five townships of land from the 
state. It also receives $3,000 annually from the latter. 



HALLOWELL — WATERVILLE. 3S5 

From 130 to 150 students are yearly educated at this 
institution. 

BowDOiNTOWN, 13 miles. 

Hallo WELL, 15 miles, is a very flourishing village, on 
the Kennebeck river, at the head of tide water. It con- 
tains an academy, a bank, three churches, between 2 
and 300 dwelUng houses, some of which are very ele- 
gant, and about 3000 inhabitants. Granite is here ob- 
tained, which is considered equal to any ever discov- 
ered in the Union. Vessels of 150 tons burthen ascend 
the river as far this place. 

Augusta, 3 miles, is the seat of government of the 
state, and is located on both sides of the Kennebeck 
river, over which is a substantial bridge. A part of the 
village is on a very elevated plain above the river, and 
a part of it on its banks. Many of the dwellings ex- 
hibit much taste and elegance in their structure, and 
the whole appearance of the place is peculiarly inviting 
and pleasant. 

The new State House, now erecting here, will be an 
ornament to the town and highly creditable to the mu- 
nificence of the state. 

Sidney, 12 miles farther, is a pleasant village on the 
Kennebeck river. 

Waterville, 5 miles, on the same river, is a place 
of considerable magnitude, containing a bank. At Te- 
conick Falls in this town, at the head of boat naviga- 
tion, there are several manufactories, and a flourishing 
village is springing up. Watei'vUle college, under the 
direction of the Baptist denomination, is located in this 
town. It was commenced in iSlS, and educates be- 
ween 50 and 60 students annually for the ministry. 



386 



PROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT. 



Bloomfield, U mileg. A pleasant village, contain- 
ing a respectable academy. 

NoRRiDGEWORK, 5 milcs, is situated on both banks 
of the Kennebeck river. It is the capital of Somerset 
county, and contains a court house and jail. The vil- 
lage is centrally located for the trade of a fertile back 
country, and is a flourishing place, containing a pop- 
ulation of about 2000 inhabitants. 

The route to Quebec continues through a less pop- 
ulous country for about 50 miles ; when, for the re- 
maining distance, it passes through extensive forests, 
with an occasional settlement only. These forests, 
however, are giving way to the arts of husbandry, and 
in a few years will doubtless be succeeded by a succes- 
sion of settlements and cultivated farms. 

FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT— 287 miles. 
The following are the intermediate distances : 



Miles. 

North Yarmouth, 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bath, 7 

Wiscasset, 15 

Newcastle, 11 

Waldoboro', 12 

Warren, 8 

Thomastown, ....... 5 

Camden, 11 

Lincolnville, 7 

Belfast, 11 

Buckstown, 18 

Penobscot, 13 



MUes. 

Castine, 4 

Blue Hill, 10 

Surry, 8 

Trenton, 12 

Sullivan, 9 

Steuben, 14 

Harrison, S 

Columbia, 12 

Jonesboro', 9 

Machias, 9 

E. Falls of Machias, . . 6 

Denneysville, 23 

Eastport Ferry, 14 

Eastport, , 4 



The route is near the coast, and embraces an extent 
of highly interesting and romantic country. North- 



BATH — THOMASTOWN. 387 

Yarmouth, Freeport and Brunswick have already been 
noticed. 

Bath, 34 miles northeast of Portland, is a port of en- 
try, on the west side of the Kennebeck river, 1 5 miles 
from its mouth. The river is here a mile wide, and the 
town is built on an acclivity for a mile and a half in ex- 
tent, and assumes a very handsome appearance from 
the water. It is a place of extensive business, and 
contains two banks, an academy, three churches, and 
a population of nearly 4000 inhabitants. 

WiscAssET, 15 miles, is a port of entry, located on 
the west side of Sheepscot river, with an excellant 
harbor. The place contains a court house, jail, bank, 
insurance office, and some other public buildings, and 
a population of about 2500. 

Newcastle, 11 miles, is located on the west side of 
Sheepscot river. 

Waldoboro', 12 miles, is a port of entry and a place 
of considerable trade, containing a population of about 
3000 inhabitants. 

Warren, 8 miles, is located on St. George's river, 
which is navigable to this place for sloops. 

Thomastown, Smiles, is a place of extensive busi- 
ness, situated on the west side of Penobscot bay and on 
St. George's river, 12 miles from its mouth. The state 
prison of Maine is at this place, and is in a lot of 10 
acres, enclosed by a solid wall, within which is an ex- 
tensive quarry of limestone. There are also in the vi- 
cinity of the town inexhaustible quarries of lime and 
marble, of which large quantities are annually exported. 
The village contains a bank and a population of about 



388 CAMDEN — CASTIWE. 

3000 inhabitants. About a mile from the village is the 
ancient residence of the late Gen. Knox, now in a state 
of decay. 

Camden, 11 miles, and Lincolnville, 7 miles far- 
ther, are both situated on the west side of the Penob- 
scot bay. 

Belfast, U miles from Linconville, is on the same 
side of the bay, and is a flourishing village. 

BucKSTOwN, 18 miles, is on the east side of the Penob- 
scot, the largest river in the state. It is navigable for 
large vessels to Bangor, 50 miles from its entrance in- 
to the bay. 

Penobscot, 13 miles, on the east side of the bay of 
that name. 

Castine, 4 miles, is situated on a promontory, near 
the head of the east side of Penobscot bay, with a beau- 
tiful harbor stretching out before the town. Castine 
can be easily defended from assault ; as the narrow- 
ness of the isthmus which connects it with the main 
land could be insulated with comparatively a small 
expense ; added to which, strong batteries would en- 
able it to resist any force which would probably be 
brought against it. This would be the more important 
in time of war, as an enemy in possession of the place, 
would have command of the intermediate country from 
Penobscot to St. Croix. The place was taken during 
the last war, and the British entrenchments on a hill 
above the town are still visible. 

Blue Hill, Surry, Trenton, Sullivan (in which there is 
a bridge across Hog bay 1400 feet long) Steuben, Har- 
rison, Columbia and Jonesborough arc successively 
passed in travelling from Castine to 



MACHIAS — ROBBINSTOWN. 389 

Machias, a port of entry and capital of Washington 
county, Me. The town contains two village^ ; one sit- 
uated at the falls of the east branch of the Machias 
river, and the other at the falls of the west branch of the 
same stream. Between the two villages a bridge is 
erected across Middle river, which, with the causeway, 
is 1900 feet long. Machias contains a court house, 
jail, 2 churches, a very flourishing academy, and is 
a thriving place. 

Eastport, is a port of entry on Moose island in Pas- 
samaquoddy bay. The island is 4 miles long, with a 
bold shore, the tide ordinarily rising here 25 feet. The 
town is principally built on the southern part of the isl- 
and and contains a bank, 3 churches and about 2000 
inhabitants. There are also fortifications in the vicini- 
ty, which were constructed during the last war. The 
view from the heights on the island is very extensive 
and romantic, taking in the bay with its numerous isl- 
ands and the adjacent coast. Between Eastport and 
the town of Perry on the main land, a bridge has been 
constructed, rising of }200 feet long. A line of steam 
boats is established bsjtween this place and Boston, 
touching at Portland, so that travellers can take either 
a water or land route to tliat city. 

RoBBiNSTOwN, 13 miles north-west of Eastport, lo- 
cated at the mouth of the St. Croix river at its entrance 
into the Passamaquoddy bay, is on the boundary line 
between the U. States and the British Province of 
New-Brunswick, and is opposite St. Andrews. 



S90 FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. 

STAGES FROM BOSTON TO NEW- YORK, 

via Hartford and J^eio-Haven^ Conn. 

A stage leaves Boston, daily, at 1 P. M. ; arrives in 
Hartford next morning at 6, in New-Haven at 2 P. M., 
and in New- York at 6, second morning — distance 210 
miles, fare $11. This line meets a steam boat every 
day at New-Haven, except Sunday — fare through by 
stage and steam boat, $10,50. A stage also leaves 
Boston on Sunday and Wednesday, at 3 A. M. reaches 
New-London, Conn, at evening, where a steam boat is 
taken, which reaches New- York the next morning. 
Another stage leaves Boston and New-Haven daily, 
passing through Hartford, and reaching the two first 
mentioned places at evening of the second day — dis- 
tance 136 milfes, fare $7,50. 

Either of the foregoing routes can be taken by trav- 
ellers wishing to proceed directly to New- York; but 
where leisure will permit, an excursion by the way of 
Providence is recommended, on the route hereafter de- 
signated. It is more circuitous, but much more inter- 
esting; and will amply compensate the tourist for the 
additional time employed for the purpose. 

FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. 

40 miles. 
A stage leaves Boston every morning at 3 o'clock, 
and connects with the steam boat line at Providence 
daily, except Sundays ; and with the steam boat line 
at New-London, Conn, on Wednesday and Sunday. 
Stages also leave Boston daily at 7 and 10 A. M., and 
at noon for Providence. Fare $1. The intermediate 
distances follow : 



DEDHAM — PAWTUCKET. 391 



Miles. 

Roxbury, 2 

Dedham, 8 

Walpole, 10 



Miles. 

Wrentham, 7 

Pawtucket, 9 

Providence, 4 



In proceeding to Roxbury, the stage passes over what 
is called the Neck, a narrow strip of land, contain- 
ing intrenchments noticed at p. 377. On Dorchester 
Heights, {see p. 364 and^J. 378,) which are seen at the 
east, many of the works erected for commanding Bos- 
ton and its harbor, are in tolerable preservation. 

Passing the Blue Hills, 7 miles from Boston, which 
lafibrd a pleasant retreat in the summer months, and a 
charming prospect of the surrounding country, the vil- 
lage of 

Dedham is reached in going three miles farther. It 
is a large and beautiful town, containing a court house, 
jail, bank, 6 churches, and between 2 and 3000 inhabi- 
tants. Charles and Neponset rivers run through the 
place, and afford numerous seats for mills and manu- 
facturing establishments. 

Walpole 10, and Wrentham 17 miles from Dedham, 
are small villages. 

Pawtucket, 9 miles from Wrentham, is located at 
the falls of the Pawtucket river ; and is one of the most 
extensive manufacturing places in the union. It con- 
tains 10 or 12 cotton factories, several shops for making 
machinery, and a number of factories for other purpo- 
ses. Four miles farther, over a most delightful road, 
is the handsome and flomishing town of 
I 1 



^92 PROVIDENCE. 

PROVIDENCE. 

The settlement of this place was commenced as ear- 
ly as 1636, by Roger Williams. He was a puritan min- 
ister, and had been settled at Salem ; but holding 
tenets contrary to the faith of many of his people, he 
was banished the jurisdiction of Massachusetts. He 
came to what was called by the Indians JMooshausick ; 
but which, in gratitude for the providential safety he 
had experienced, he called Providence. It is located 
on the river of the same name, just above the mouth of 
the Seekhonk or Pawtucket, 35 miles from the ocean, 
and is a port of entry. The town is built on both sides 
of the river, across which is an elegant bridge ; and is 
one of the most wealthy and enterprizing places in the 
union. Besides a great variety of extensive manufac- 
turing establishments, it contains a court house, town 
house,* market, hospital, 7 banks, a college, 3 acade- 
mies, and several churches; and its population is not 
far from 17,000. 

Brown University, at this place, over which the 
Rev. Francis Watland, jun. presides, was incorporat- 
ed in 1769. It soon rose to a respectable rank among 
the literary institutions of the country ; but afterwards 
declined. Under its present able and judicious Presi- 
dent, however, it has attained a handsome elevation, 
and promises to become one of the best seats of learn- 
ing in the union. The library has lately been much in- 
creased by donations from England j and the philo- 
sophical apparatus, which is extensi^p* is constantly 
improving. The college edifices, of which there are 
two, are located on a lofty eminence, with streets 



BLACKSTONE CANAL. 393 

leading thereto, richly decorated with fine mansions 
and elegant gardens. About a mile still farther east or 
north-east, stands a large building, called the Quaker 
College. It was built by the Friends, and is occupied 
as a boarding school of that persuasion, and is in excel- 
lent order. Near this, of corresponding dimensions and 
appearance, stands the new Alms House. A legacy of 
60,000 dollars, has enabled the town to erect this no- 
ble structure. »* 

The town abounds with the most delightful private 
residences. The new town, on the west side of the 
river, has more the appearance of a flourishing com- 
mercial city than the old. It also contains many spa- 
cious dwellings which impart to it an air of prosperity. 
The Hill, or East Providence, as it is called, is occupi- 
ed by gentlemen's private mansions, or country seats, 
all advantageously located, with fine court yards in 
front, thickly planted with shrubbery, while highly 
cultivated and beautiful gardens adorn the rear, and 
add immeasurably to their comforts. The charming 
residences of Messrs. Brown, Ives, and Governor 
Fenner are entitled to particular notice. It was on 
the present domains of Governor Fenner, that Roger 
Williams fii"st planted himself, and it has so happened, 
that from that day to this, that situation has belonged 
to a governor of Rhode Island. 

The Blackstone Canal tern"»inates at this place. 
It commences in the Blackstone river at Worcester, 45 
miles distant, and pursues the valley of the river to 
Woonsokett falls near the Massachusetts Une ; from 
whence there is an excavation to Providence. 

Steam Boats leave Providence six times a week for 
J^ew- York— fare ^6. 



394 



FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 



Stages, also, leave Providence three times a week 
for Norwich and Middletown, and daily (except Sun- 
days) for Hartford, Conn, arriving at those places at 
evening. Fare to Norwich, 45 miles, $3 — to Middle- 
town $4— to Hartford, 74 miles, $4. A stage also 
leaves Providence twice a week for New-London, 
Conn, distant 59 miles, connected with a steam boat 
line for New- York. 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 

Stages leave Providence daily, except Sundays, at 9 
A. M. reaching Bristol at 11, and Newport at 4 P. M. 
Fare from Providence to Bristol, 15 miles, $1 — from 
Providence to Newport, 30 miles, $2,33. 

Bristol is a pleasant town, with a population of 
about 1500 inhabitants. The village is located on the 
east shore of^the Narraganset bay, affording an excel- 
lent harbor for vessels of the largest dimensions. 
About 2 miles from the feriy in this town an exten- 
sive mine of anthracite coal was opened a few years 
since, from which very considerable quantities are an- 
nually taken. 

Newport is a large town, with an extensive harbor 
which is defended by Forts Adams and Dumplings at 
its entrance, and by Fort Woolcott on Goat Island, op- 
posite the town. There is also a small battery about 
a mile above the town, called Fort Green. The village 
is about a mile in length, and rises in a gentle acclivity 
from the harbor, giving to it a fine appearance, when 
approached from the water. It contains a state-house, 
theatre, five banks, 11 churches, several manufactories, 
and a population of about 8,000, 



NEWPORT. 395 

Newport was possessed by the British for a consider- 
able time during the revolutionary war. In 1778, un- 
der an expectation of aid from the French fleet, which 
had sailed into the harbor, an American force, of about 
10,000 strong, commanded by Gen. Sullivan, and aided 
by Gen. La Fayette, made preparations for attacking 
the place. On the approach of the Americans, the 
British abandoned their outposts and retreated to their 
works within the town. These posts were immediate- 
ly possessed by the Americans ; and the most flatter- 
ing prospects existed, that the allied forces would be 
enabled to capture the entire British army. But the 
French admiral, who had been a military officer, and 
who, by a previous arrangement, was to superintend a 
part of the land as well as naval operations, took of- 
fence at some of the movements of Gen. Sullivan, and 
refused a co-operation. While an attempt at reconcil- 
iation was going forward, a British fleet suddenly ap- 
peared off" Newport, which induced the French admiral, 
as a precautionary measure, to sail out of the harbor. 
A severe storm coming on, prevented a naval engage- 
ment ; and both fleets, being left in a shattered condi- 
tion, at the close of the tempest, retired — the British to 
New- York, and the French to Newport. During this 
lime, Gen. Sullivan had laid siege to the town ; and 
though interrupted by the storm, in which his army 
suffered considerably, he had succeeded in annoying the 
enemy, and keeping him within the lines of the village. 
On the return of the French fleet, another effort was 
made to induce the admiral to co-operate with the 
Americans. But his ships had received so much injury 

in the gale, that he considered it necessary to repair to 
ii2 



396 NEWPORT. 

Boston, pursuant to previous instructions from his gov- 
ernment. Under these circumstances, SulUvan de- 
termined on raising the siege. A retreat was effected 
in the night. But on its being discovered the next 
morning, the Americans were pursued by the British 
to Quaker Hill, where a sharp contest eusued, which 
resulted in the loss of between 2 and 300 of each army. 
Sullivan afterwards retreated to Massachusetts, with 
little or no interruption ; and his retreat was consider- 
ed fortunate, as a B ritish re-inforcement, which arrived 
at Newport the day after, would have been enabled ef- 
fectually to cut him off from the main land. 

During the possession of Newport by the British, a 
bold party of men under Col. Barton, landed from a 
boat in the night, proceeded to the enemy's head quar- 
ters, captured Gen Prescott, and conveyed him away 
before they could be prevented by the land or naval 
forces then in the harbor. 

From its elegant and healthy situation, its proximity 
to the ocean, and the salubrity of its climate, Newport, 
for several years, has been a place of considerable re- 
sort in the summer months. Were there a direct com- 
munication from this place, by stage, or steam-boat, to 
New-London, Hartford or New-Haven, Conn, it would 
add much to the convenience of tourists. But, unfor- 
tunately, for this purpose, the steam-boats which leave 
Providence and Newport five or six times a week for 
New- York, do not touch at any of the Connecticut 
ports ; and, in order to reach New-London by stage, 
it is necessary to return to Providence. Those who 
have travelled down by land, generally return by water. 



KING PHILir. S97 

Passing Fort Green, a prospect is soon obtained of 
Mount Hope, a few miles to the northwest. It was the 
former residence of 

Kitig Philip, of the Narraganset tribe of Indians, 
and was also the place of his death. The well 
known energy and enterprise of his character made 
him an object of great jealousy and apprehension, 
and he was accused of always cherishing a secret 
and implacable hostility towards the English. A ren- 
egado Indian subject had heightened this jealousy, by 
reveahng to the whites the pretended hostile projects 
of Philip. This informer was shortly afterwards found 
murdered in a pond, having fallen a victim to the ven- 
geance of his tribe. Three Indians, one of whom was a 
friend and counsellor of Philip, were seized by the whites 
tried, and on rather slight testimony executed. This out- 
raged the pride and exasperated the passions of Philip, 
and a long and bloody war was the consequence. The 
whites, possessing more military skill, were generally 
victorious, and Philip was driven from his paternal do- 
mains and compelled to take refuge in the depths of for- 
ests or the glooms and thickets of swamps. At one time 
he was driven, with a band of followers, into the great 
swamp of Pocasset Neck, where the English forces did 
not dare to pursue him, fearing to venture into these 
dark and frightful recesses. They therefore invested 
the entrance into the neck, and began to build a fort, 
with the intention of starving out the foe ; but Philip 
and his companions, leaving their women and children 
behind, wafted themselves on a raft over an arm of the 
sea, in the dead of night, and escaped away to the 
westward, kindling the flames of war among the tribes 



398 KING PHILIP. 

of Massachusetts and the Nipmuck country, and threat- 
ening the colony of Connecticut. 

One of the most faithful friends that Philip had in the 
time of his adversity, was Canonchet, chief sachem oi' 
all the Narragansets. Though he had forborne to 
take an active part in this hopeless war, yet he receiv- 
ed Philip and his shattered forces with open arms, and 
gave him the most generous countenance and support. 
This at once drew on Canonchet the hostility of the Eng- 
lish ; and it was determined to strike a single blow that 
should involve both the sachems in a common ruin. A 
great force was therefore gathered together from Mas- 
sachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut, and sent into 
the Narraganset country, in the depth of winter, when 
the swamps, being frozen and leafless, no longer af- 
forded impenetrable fortresses to the Indians. Appre- 
hensive of attack, Canonchet had sheltered the greatei: 
part of his stores, together with the old, the infirm, the 
women and children of his tribe, in a strong fortress, 
where he and Philip had likewise drawn up the flower 
of their forces. This fortress, deemed by the Indians 
impregnable, was situated upon a rising mound, or 
kind of island, of five or six acres, in the middle of a 
swamp, constructed with a judgment and skill vastly 
superior to the usual fortifications of the Indians ; and 
indicative of the martial genius of these two chieftains. 

Guided by a renegado Indian, the Enghsh penetrated, 
through December snows, to this strong hold, and 
came upon the garrison by surprise. The fight was 
fierce and tumultuous. The assailants were repulsed 
in their first attack ; and several of their bravest offi- 
cers were shot down in the act of storming the fortress, 



KING PHILIP. 399 

sword in hand. The assault was renewed with greater 
success ; a lodgement was effected ; the Indians were 
driven from one hold to another ; they disputed their 
ground inch by inch, fighting with the fury of despair ; 
most of their veterans were cut to pieces, and after a 
long and bloody battle, Philip and Canonchet, with a 
handful of surviving warriors, retreated from the fort 
and plunged into the depths of the surrounding forest. 
The victors set fire to the wigwams and the fort ; 
the whole was soon in a blaze ; and many of the old 
men, the women and the children perished in the 
flames. This last inhuman outrage overcame the sto- 
icism of the savage. The neighboring woods resounded 
with the yells of rage and despair, uttered by the fugi- 
tive warriors, as they beheld with anguish of heart, the 
desolation of their dwellings, and heard the agonizing 
cries of their wives and offspring. " The burning of the 
wigwams," says a contemporary writer, " the shrieks 
and cries of the women and children, and the yelling of 
the warriors, exhibited a most horrible and affecting 
scene, so that it greatly moved some of the soldiers." 

The defeat of the Narraganset fortress, and the 
death of Canonchet, were fatal blows to the fortunes of 
King Philip. He made an ineffectual attempt to raise 
a head of war, by stirring up the Mohawks to take up 
arms ; but though possessed of the native talents of a 
statesman, his arts were counteracted by the superior 
arts of his enlightened enemies, and the terror of their 
warlike skill began to subdue the resolution of the 
neighboring tribes. 

With a scanty band of followers, who still remained 
true to Ms desperate fortunes, the unhappy Philip wan- 



400 FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON. 

dered back to the vicinity of Mount Hope, the ancient 
dwelling of his fathers. Here he lurked about like a 
spectre, among the desolated scenes of former pow- 
er and prosperity, now bereft of home and friends. Ev- 
en in this last refuge of desperation and despair, a 
sullen grandeur seems to gather round his memory. 
Defeated, but not dismayed — crushed to the earth, but 
not humiliated, he seemed to grow more haughty be- 
neath disaster, and to receive a fierce satisfaction in 
draining the last dregs of bitterness. The very idea of 
submission awakened the fury of Philip, and he even 
smote to death one of his followers who proposed an 
expedient of peace. The brother of the victim made 
his escape, and, in revenge, betrayed the retreat of his 
chieftain. A body of white men and Indians were im- 
mediately despatched to the swamp where Philip lay 
crouched, glaring with fury and despair. Before he 
was aware of their approach, they had began to sur- 
round him. In a little while he saw five of his trustiest 
followers laid dead at his feet ; a resistance was vain ; 
he rushed forth from his covert, and made a headlong 
attempt at escape, but was shot through the heart by a 
renegade Indian of his own nation. 

After leaving Fort Green, the steam-boat succes- 
sively passes Prudence, Patience, Hope and Despair 
islands, and Providence is reached in going 20 miles 
from the northern extremity of the latter. 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON. 

56 miles. 

A stage leaves Providence twice a week in the morn- 
ing, passing through Centreville, West Greenwich, 
Hopkinton, Stonington and Mystic, and reaches NeW" 
Jyondon at evening. 



STONINGTON. 401 

Centreville, 11 miles from Providence, is a man- 
ufacturing village, containing two cotton factories, sev- 
eral vi^eaving shops, and a number of small houses. 

West Greenwich, 2 miles. 

HoPKiNTON, 15 miles. 

Stonington, 11 miles. The village is incorporated ; 
contains a U. S. arsenal, several factories, a bank, an 
academy, two churches, and a population of more than 
3000. It has a good harbor, and is a place of consid- 
erable trade. 

The settlement of the place commenced as early as 
1649. It had previously been a part of the territory of 
the Pequots, a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians. 
The early English settlers, in different parts of Connec- 
ticut, had been frequently annoyed by this tribe ; and, 
in 1637, it became necessary to take efficient steps for 
their expulsion. An expedition was entrusted to Capt. 
Mason ; who, with about 300 colonists raised in Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts, and 200 Mohegan and 
Narraganset Indians, encamped on the night of the 
26th of May at a place called Porter's rocks, a short 
distance from the present village of Stonington, and 
about three miles from one of the principal forts of the 
Pequots, which was situated on the summit of a hill. 
Two hours before day, the little army was in motion ; 
and on approaching the fort, it was found that the en- 
emy, about 700 strong, were in a profound sleep, with- 
out their usual watch, having spent the previous night 
in revelry and drunkenness. On a close approximation 
of Mason's men, a dog within the fort commenced 
barking, which awakened one of the Pequots ; who 
perceiving the approach of the assailants, aroused his 



i02 NEW-LONDON. 

comrades from their slumbers. Mason immediately 
advanced, and through the apertures of the pallisades 
poured in a fire, and then rushed in through a part of 
the fort slightly barricaded. Notwithstanding their 
confusion, the Pequots defended themselves with bra- 
very; but having but few other weapons than baws 
and arrows, they were unable to withstand the assail- 
ants, who cut them down without mercy with their 
swords and bayonets. To render the victory complete, 
Mason ordered their wigwams to be fired. The blaze 
soon spread in all directions, compelling the besieged 
to ascend the pallisades ; from whence more than one 
hundred were shot down by the assailants who had 
then surrounded the fort. Others attempting to break 
through the lines of the troops, were either shot or cut 
down ; and several perished in the flames. The scene 
continued about an hour ; when it was found that sev- 
enty wigwams had been destroyed, and that the ground 
was strewed with the bodies of between five and six 
hundred of the slain. Mason's loss was only two men 
killed and sixteen wounded. 

In August, 1814, a bombardment of Stonington took 
place from a British 74, a frigate, a sloop of war and 
an armed brig; but with the aid of two 18 pounders 
and a 4 pounder, the inhabitants defended the place j 
prevented the landing of troops from barges ; and final- 
ly compelled the enemy to haul off, with his brig con- 
siderably shattered. 

NEW-LONDON 
Is a city and port of entry. It has the best harbor in 
Connecticut, and is defended by Forts Trumbull and 
Griswold. The city is on the west bank of the Thames, 



NEW-LONDON. 408 

Within 3 miles of its mouth, and csontains a eourt house, 
2 banks, 5 churches, and a population of between 3 
and 4000. Many of the houses on the heights, back of 
the town, and a few in the city, are handsome ; but 
the general appearance of the place is uninteresting. 

New-London, like Stonington, was once within the 
territory of the Pequot Indians, and was settled at the 
same time. About 4 miles east of the city, on what is 
called Fort Hill, this nation had their strongest fortress. 
But slight remains of it, however, are now to be seen. 

In September, 1781, after the treason of Arnold, an 
expedition was entrusted to his care against New-Lon- 
don. A strong detachment landed on both sides of the 
harbor at the mouth of the river. Arnold, who com- 
manded in person the troops which landed on the west 
side, immediately advanced against Fort Trumbull, an 
adjoining redoubt, and New-London. These posts be- 
ing untenable, were abandoned on his approach. Col. 
Eyere, who commanded the detachment which landed 
on the eastern side, proceeded to stonn Fort Griswold, 
situate on Groton Hill. It was occupied by a garrison 
of 160 men, commanded by Col. Ledyard, a part of 
whom had just evacuated the works on the opposite 
side of the river. Ledyard defended the fort, until the 
British succeeded in entering the embrasures with 
charged bayonets. Further resistance being useless, 
Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British colonel ; 
who, in defiance of every rule of civilized warfare, 
plunged it into the bosom of the conquered officer, and 
continued the carnage until the greater part of the gar- 
rison was destroyed. Eyere, however, lost his own 
life in the affair, and 200 of his men were either killed 

KK 



404 FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH. 

or wounded. New-London was, at the same time, set 
on fire by the direction of Arnold, and most of its build- 
ings and all the public stores deposited in the place, 
consumed in the conflagration. 

Forts Griswold and Trumbull are still in tolerable 
preservation ; and were garrisoned by the government 
during the late war with Great Britain. 

A steam-boat leaves New-London every Monday 
and Friday on the arrival of the Boston stage, which is 
generally at 7 P. M. and reaches New- York early the 
next morning. Leaves New- York for New-London 
every Wednesday and Saturday at 3 P. M. 5 and con- 
tinues on her trip from New-London, every Monday 
and Friday at 4 P. M. up the Thames river to Norwich, 
14 miles distant. 

Stages also leave New-London on Tuesday, Thurs- 
day and Saturday, at 8 A. M. and arrive at Hartford, at 
6 P. M. passing through Waterford, Montville, Salem, 
Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury and 
East Hartford. Distance 47 miles — fare $3. This is 
the most direct route ; but the traveller will find it in- 
teresting to take a trip up the Thames to Norwich ; 
from whence a conveyance may be had to Hartford 
three times a week, as noticed hereafter. 

FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH, 

by Steam- Boat, 

Previous to the settlement of New-London, in 1648, 
the Thames was. called the Pequot river; but at that 
period it received its present name. It rises in the 
Mashapaug pond in Union, 3 miles N. E. of Hartford, 
passes into Massachusetts, re-enters Connecticut, and 



NORWICH. 405 

pursues a southerly course till it falls into Long Island 
Sound. It is navigable for large vessels no farther than 
Norwich. During the late war, while New-London 
was blockaded, the U. S. ships Macedonian, United 
States and Hornet, were moored in a cove above MaS' 
sapeaug Point ; and a small battery erected for their 
protection. 

MoHEGAN is on the west bank of the Thames, 4 miles 
south of Norwich, and is the residence of about 300 
Mohegan Indians, the only remnant of that once pow- 
erful tribe, who formerly owned this section of country. 
On Hoi'ton^s Hill, not far from this place, the lines of an 
old Indian fort can still be traced. 

Trading Cove, about 1 mile farther, is a bay extend- 
ing a short distance into what was once the Indian 
country, and derived its name from the traffic which 
was here carried on between the colonists and the Mo- 
hegans. The residence of Uncas, their sachem, and 
early friend of the whites, was near this cove, now the 
centre of the Indian reservation. 

NORWICH 
Is an incorporated city. It contains three compact 
settlements ; of which Chelsea Landing, situate at the 
point of land between the Shetucket and Yantic rivers, 
is the principal. Its location is peculiarly romantic ; 
and it is a place of much enterprise and business. 
What is called the Town is 2 miles northwest of Chel- 
sea, containing the court house and some other public 
buildings ; and the third settlement is Bean Hill, in the 
western part of Norwich. The city contains a bank, 4 
or 5 churches, and several manufacturing establish- 



406 NORWICH. 

ments. The Yantic falls, 1 mile from Chelsea, arc- 
handsome, and afford facilities for mills and manufac- 
tories. From a rock 70 or 80 feet in height, which 
overhangs the stream, tradition says a number of Nar- 
ragansets once precipitated themselves when pursued 
by the Mohegans. 

Settlements were commenced at Norwich as early as 
16G0. A part of the town was first conveyed to Thom- 
as Leffingwell, a colonial militia officer, by the sachem 
Uncas, in consideration of services rendered him in a 
war with a neighboring tribe. A fort belonging to Un- 
cas, on the Pequot river, was closely besieged by the 
Narragansets ; and the provisions being nearly expend- 
ed, it was reduced to the last extremity. In this situa- 
tion, Uncas contrived to notify the English at Saybrook 
fort of his distressed condition. Leffingwell, who com- 
manded that fort, immediately conveyed to the besieg- 
ed a supply of pi'ovisions ; which being soon known to 
the assailants, they were induced to raise the siege. 
For this generous conduct of Leffingwell, Uncas con- 
veyed to him the land about the fort, and afterwards 
gave him a formal deed of a township, embracing most 
of the present town of Norwich. 

On an elevated bank north of what is called the Cove, 
and near the Yantic falls, is the burying ground of the 
royal family of the Mohegans, commonly called " the- 
burying ground of the Uncasses." Many of their 
graves are still designated by coarse stones ; on some 
of which are English inscriptions. Uncas was buried 
here, and many of his decendants ; but his family is 
now nearly extinct. There are one or two living who 
claim a kindred ; but who have very little of the mag-». 
naaimity or valor for which he was so conspicuous^ 



FROM NORWICH TO HARTFOR]). 407 

The Plabi near the burying ground, was the summer 
residence of the Mohegans, and is a most delightful 
spot. 

FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. 

Stages leave Norwich on Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday at 8 A. M., and arrive at Hartford at 8 P. M. 
Distance 39 miles — fare $2,50. The intermediate dis- 
tances and places are as follows : 



Miles. 

Bozrah, 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry, 12 



Miles. 

Bolton, 4 

East Hartford, 13 

Hartford, 1 



East Hartford is located on the east bank of the 
Connecticut river, directly opposite Hartford, with 
which it is connected by an elegant bridge, which, in- 
cluding the cause-way, is nearly a mile long. The vil- 
lage contains 4 churches, several manufacturing estab- 
lishments, and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. 

HARTFORD. 

A settlement was commenced by the English at this 
place in 1634. The Dutch, from New-Netherlands, 
had previously established a trading house and port at 
the place, for the purpose of carrying on a commerce 
with the Indians, and were disposed to prevent the 
Enghsh from participating in the traffic. But finding 
that this could not be effected, without a bloody con- 
test, they abandoned the design. 

The charter which was originally granted to the col- 
onists of Connecticut, having been demanded by the 
English monarch in 1686, through the medium of an 
agent, it was reluctantly surrendered by the colonial 

kk2 



40S HARTFORCf. 

legielalure. Tliis took place in an evening ; and ^vhifc 
it remained on a table in a room where an agent arid 
several British officers had assembled, the windows be- 
ing open, on a preconcerted signal, the candles were 
extinguished by persons in the street, and the charter 
seized by a citizen in the roorn, and conveyed to a tree; 
in the cavity of which it remained for several years. 
This tree is still standing ; and is known by the name 
of the Charter Oak. It is located in the lower part of 
the town in the street running east from the south 
church, and is dircctVy in front of the ancient mansion 
of the Wyllis family. The charter is still preserved in 
the office of the secretary of state. 

Hartford is now the largest city in the state. It is 
located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, at 
the head of sloop navigation, and 50 miles from its 
mouth. The city is handsomely laid out, and contains 
a number of elegant buildings and private residences. 
Among its public buildings, are a state house, arsenal, 
3 banks, a museum, an academy, a college, an asylum 
for the deaf and dumb, an asylum for the insane, and 7 
or S churches. Population, between 8 and 9000. The 
principal public houses are Bennet's, Morgan's and 
Ripley's. 

Washington College is in Main-street, in the south 
part of the city. It was opened in 1324, and consists 
of two edifices; one of which is 150 feet long and 4 
stories high, and contains the rooms of the students. In 
the other is the chapel, recitation rooms and library. 

The Deaf mid Dumb Jisylum is on Tower Hill, one 
mile west of the city ; and was the first institution of 
the kind established in the United States. It is under 



the dirpction oi'Mr. Gallautlct, a gentleman eminently 
(juallfied for the station. He is assisted by Mr. Le 
Clcrck, who is deaf and dumb, but a man of distin- 
guished talents. The permanent fund of the institu- 
tion, including a donation of land by Congress, amounts 
to .$215,539 ; of which sum {^80,000 are available. The 
number of pupils is generally about 70 ; many of whom 
are supported by public and private charities. 

A visit to the institution is unusually interesting. 
The utmost order and decorum prevail ; and the stran- 
ger will be delighted with the means here employed for 
enlightening and cultivating the minds of an unfortu- 
neite class of the community ; and with the rapid im- 
provement they make, not only in writing, but in a 
study of many of the sciences. Every thing is commu- 
nicated by means of signs. After being taught the 
mode of conveying the most necessary ideas, they pro- 
ceed to study the alphabet employed at the institution ; 
then the names of visible objects, and the order of the 
letters used in designating them ; and finally a knowl- 
edge of absent objects and abstract ideas, by means of 
ingenious devices and definitions. Many soon attain 
a knowledge of writing correctly ; and some are ena- 
bled to communicate their ideas in chaste and even ele- 
gant language. 

The nexo Exchange Buildings, on the corner of Main 
and State streets, are deserving of notice, as a speci- 
men of good taste, and is ornamental to the city. 

The J^ew City Hall is an elegant structure, creditable 
to the taste and munificence of the inhabitants. 

The new Episcopal Church, and the High School in 
Washington-street, occupy a prominent place. The 



410 HARTFORD. 

latter is delightfully situated on a commanding emi- 
nence, and ranks in spaciousness and beauty with the 
most favored establishments of the kind in other cities . 
The Episcopal Church is a monument of liberal public 
spirit guided by good taste, and is surpassed in design 
and execution by few, if any similar buildings in our 
country. 

The Hospital for the Insane, is a stone building, 150 
feet long and 50 wide, 4 stories high, with wings of 3 
stories. It is located a lUtle south of the city. 

Hartford has undergohe a surprising change within 
a few years. Its streets have been greatly improved ; 
many of its old buildings have given place to new and 
elegant dwellings, and the whole appearance of the 
city exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and pros- 
perity. 

STEAM BOATS. 

A steam boat leaves Hartford for New- York on Mon- 
day, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 11 A. M. 
reaching New- York the next morning; and leaves 
New- York on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Fri- 
day at 4 P. M. reaching Hartford the next day at noon. 

STAGES. 

To J^ew-Haven and J^Tew-York. — A stage leaves Hart- 
ford every morning, (Sundays excepted) which reaches 
New-Haven at noon, and New- York the next morning. 
Fare to New-Haven, 40 miles, $2 ; to New- York, 123 
miles, v$5,50. 

To Boston. — A stage leaves daily (Sundays excepted) 
at 6 A. M. and reaches Boston at 12 at night. Dis- 
tanccj 136 miles — fare $5,50. 



FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN. 411 

To Litchfield, Ct. — A stage leaves Hartford on Mon- 
day, Wednesday and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives at 
Litchfield at 3 P. M.— Distance 30 miles, fare $2. 

To Hanover, JV*. H. {up Connecticut river.) — A stage 
leaves Hartford daily, (except Sundays) arrives at 
Brattleborough, Vt. the first day, and Hanover, N. H. 
the second — passing through Windsor, Ct. Springfield, 
Northampton, Deerfield, and Greenfield, Mass. Brat- 
tleborough and Westminster, Vt. Walpole and Charles- 
town, N. H., Windsor and Hartford, Vt. to Hanover. 
[This line intersects the daily stage for Boston at 
Northampton, and the daily stage for Saratoga Springs 
at Charlestown.] Distance from Hartford to Hanover, 
152 miles — fare $7,25. 

To J^ew-London. — h. stage leaves Hartford on Sun- 
day, Wednesday and Friday at 8 A. M. and reaches 
New-London at 5 P. M. — Distance 47 miles — fare $3. 

To Albany. — A stage leaves Hartford and Albany ev- 
ery morning (Sunday excepted) at 2, and arrives at 
each place at 7 P. M. — Distance 96 miles — fare $5. 

FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN.— 40 miles. 
The intermediate places and distances are as follows : 



Miles. 

Wethersfield, 4 

Rocky Hill, 3 

Middletown, 8 



Miles, 

Durham, 7 

Northford, 8 

New-Haven, 10 



Wethersfield is located on the west bank of the 
Connecticut river, 4 miles below Hartford. The soil, 
which is of tlie finest order, is principally devoted to the 
culture of onions ; of which large quantities are export- 
ed annually. The labor is principally performed by 
women and children. The new penitentiary of tho 
state is erected at this place. 



412 MIDDLETOWN. 

Rocky Hill, S miles ; a parish in the town of Weth- 
ersfield, containing a lofty eminence, from which a rich 
and variegated prospect of the surrounding country is 
enjoyed. Six miles farther is a village, called Middle- 
town Upper Houses ; from which to the city of Middle- 
town is 2 miles. 

MIDDLETOWN, 

A port of entry, is handsomely located on the west 
bank of the Connecticut river, 31 miles from its mouth. 
Among its public buildings are a court house, jail, 
alms-house, bank, 10 churches, and a military academy. 
There are also several extensive manufactories of rifles, 
swords, buttons, ivory combs, woollen and cotton 
goods, &c. The population of the city is about 3500. 
Francis', Swathel's, and Boardman's are among the 
best public houses. 

Capt, Palndge's Military Academy is pleasantly situat- 
ed a short distance from the city. The two principal 
buildings are each 150 feet long, 50 broad and 4 stories 
high. There is also a chapel, with recitation rooms 
above, and a dining hall. The latter is 120 feet long, 
and faces the parade. The whole assumes a very hand- 
some and imposing appearance ; and from the top of 
the chapel may be had an extensive view of the sur- 
rounding country. The course of instruction is similar 
to that pursued at the military academy at West Point. 
The scholars wear the uniform of cadets ; and, besides 
other sciences, are taught the use of arms, and are sub- 
ject to a strict military discipline. 

On the eastern bank of the Connecticut, opposite to 
Middletown, are several quarries of free stone, used for 



MIDDLETOWN* 4lS 

building. Immediately below the city, the river turns 
abruptly to the west ; and passes between two lofty 
hills, forming what are called the Narrows. Within 
these Narrows, on the south bank of the river, is a lead 
mine, which was used during the revolutionary war. 
It can be approached only in boats or by means of a 
foot path.* 

In proceeding on the stage route to New-Haven, the 
only object witnessed worthy of remark, is a natural 
ice house in the parish of Northford, IS miles from Mid- 
dletown, and 7 from New-Haven. It is on the declivi- 
ty of a trap ridge near the road ; and contains ice 
throughout the year. 

A natural ice house, of still greater extent, is in the 
town of Meriden, on another route from Hartford to 
New-Haven, and nearly equa-distant from those pla- 
ces. The Journal of Science remarks, that it is in a 
country composing " a part of the secondary trap re- 
gion of Connecticut, and is marked by numerous distinct 
ridges of green stone, which present lofty mural preci- 
pices, and from their number, contiguity and parallel- 



* Continuing a course down the river, the steam boat 
successively passes Middle Haddam, Haddam, East 
Haddam, Essex or Pettipaug, and Saybrook, where the 
river enters Long Island Sound. The shores are gen- 
erally bold and rocky, and present but few objects of 
interest. Saybrook was the first town settled on the 
river; at which time (1635) a small fort was erected at 
the place. The town was originally granted to Lord 
Say and Seal, Lord Brook and others ; and derived its 
name from these proprietors. Yale College was locat- 
ed here for a time, and afterwards removed to New- 
Haven. 



414 MIDDLETOWN. 

ism, they often form narrow precipitous defiles, filled 
more or less with fragments of rocks of various sizes, 
from that of a hand stone to that of a cottage. These 
firagments are the detritus or debris of these moun- 
^tains, and every one in the least acquainted with such 
countries, knows how much they always abound with 
similar ruins. 

In such a defile the natural ice house in question is 
situated. On the south-western side, there is a trap 
ridge of naked perpendicular rock, which, with the slo- 
ping ruins at the base, appears to be 400 feet high ; 
the parallel ridge which forms the other side of the de- 
file is probably not over 40 feet high, but it rises ab- 
ruptly on the eastern side, and is covered by other 
wood, which occupies the narrow valley also. This 
valley is, moreover, choked in an astonishing degree 
with the ruins of the contiguous mountain ridge, and 
exhibits many fragments of rock which would fill a 
large room. As the defiile is very narrow, these frag- 
ments have, in their fall, been arrested here, by the 
low parallel ridge, and are piled on one another in vast 
confusion, forming a series of cavities which are situa- 
ted among and under these rocks. Many of them 
have reposed there for ages, as appears from the fact 
that small trees, (the largest that the scanty soil, accu- 
mulated by revolving centuries can support) are now 
growing on some of these fragments of rock. Leaves 
also and other vegetable ruins have accumulated 
among the rocks and trees, and choked the mouths of 
many of the cavities among the ruins. This defile, thus 
narrow and thus occupied by forest, and^by rocky ruins, 
runs nearly N. and S. and is completely impervious to 



NEW -HAVEN. 415 

the sun's rays, except when he is near the meridian. 
Then, indeed, for an hour, he looks into this secluded 
valley, but the trees and the rocks and the thick beds 
of leaves scarcely permit his beams to make the slight- 
est impression. 

It is in the cavities beneath the masses of rocks al- 
ready described, that the ice is formed. The ground 
descends a little to the south, and a small brook ap- 
pears to have formed a channel among the rocks. The 
ice is thick and well consolidated, and its gradual melt- 
ing, in the warm season, causes a stream of ice cold 
water to issue from this defile. This fact has been 
known to the people of the vicinity for several genera- 
tions, and the youth have, since the middle of the last 
century, been accustomed to resort to this place, in 
parties, for recreation, and to drink the waters of the 
cold-flowing brook," 

NEW-HAVEN, 

Is usually pronounced by travellers, to be one of the 
handsomest towns in the Union. It is located around 
a harbor which sets up about 4 miles from Long Island 
Sound ; and is the semi-capital .of the state. The city 
is built on a large plain, encircled on all sides, except 
those occupied by the water, by hills and lofty moun- 
tains. It is divided into two parts, called the old and 
new townships ; in each of which is an open square. 
The houses are generally neat, and some are very ele- 
gant. To each dwelling, there is generally attached a 
garden, and frequently a beautiful yard in front. Ad- 
ded to which, several of the streets are adorned with 
lofty trees, giving to the whole a rural and most de- 



416 NEW-HAVEN. 

lightful appearance. Among the public buildings are 
a state house, the college edifices, 5 churches, a court 
house, jail, 2 banks, a custom house and 3 or 4 acade- 
mies. The population is between 11 and 12,000. 

The Public Square or Green, near the centre of the 
city, is an elegant spot, containing several acres, and is 
surrounded by stately elms. In the centre are three 
churches and the state house ; on the west side, the col- 
lege buildings; and on the east side^ fronting the state 
house, the Tontine Coffee House. The space immedi- 
ately in the rear of the churches, called the Upper 
Green, was formerly used as a burying ground ; but in 
1821 the monuments were removed to the new bury- 
ing ground, in the northwestern part of the city. The 
ancient monument ofDixwell, {seep. 352,) is still to be 
seen, and it is believed by many that the other regi- 
cides, Goffe and Whalley, were also interred here ; but 
this opinion is unsupported by evidence, Goffe died 
at Hadley, and was probably buried there ; and of 
Whalley no certain information was ever obtained af- 
ter he left Hadlev. 

Yale College was foundgd in 1701, and was named af- 
ter its early benefactor, Elihu Yale, governor of the 
East India Company. It was originally located at Kil- 
lingworth ; afterwards removed to Saybro<^, (see "jo. 
413) ; and from thence, in 1717, to New-Haven. The 
faculty is composed of a president, 10 professors, a li- 
brarian and S tutors. The library consists of about 
10,000 volumes; and the literary societies among the 
students have libraries amounting, collectively, to 5000 
more. The cabinet of minerals is very extensive, and 
by far the most valuable of any in the Union. The col- 
lege buildings consist of four spacious edifices, each 



NEW-HAVEN. 417 

4 stories high, 104 feet long and 40 wide, and each con- 
taining 32 rooms for students ; two chapels, one con- 
taining a philosophical chamber ; a Lyceum, containing 
the hbrary and recitation rooms — all of brick ; and a 
handsome dining hall in the rear of the other buildings, 
built of stone. Seven of these buildings stand in a line 
fronting the green, the Lyceum occupying a central 
position ; and "the whole, with the charming scenery 
around, form a most enchanting and elegant landscape. 
The medical institution fronting College street, is con- 
nected with the college, and has a valuable anatom- 
ical museum. The number of students at Yale is gen- 
erally from 450 to 500. The alumni of the institution 
amounted, in 1826, to upwards of 4000 ; of whom more 
than 2200 were then living. 

The Jfeio Burying Ground, containing several acres, 
is divided into parallelograms, which are subdivided for 
families. The ground is planted with trees, mostly 
willows; and the white monuments, several of which 
are obelisks, seen through the foliage, with the taste 
and uniformity every where discovered, give to the 
whole a most impressive and solemn appearance. 

The Tontine Coffee House, kept by Mr. Andrews, is 
one of the best establishments of the kind in the U. S. 
It is located directly in front of the state house and 
college edifices, the public square intervening, com- 
manding from its upper or fourth story, a beautiful and 
extensive view of the city and the surrounding country. 
The Tontine, which is built of brick, is 80 feet long, 
with a wing extending back 100 feet. It contains a 
spacious dining hall, cotillion room, 8 private and pub- 
lic parlours, and a sufficient number of lodging cham- 
bers to accommodate from 80 to 100 guests. It is kept 



4t8 FARMIJVGTON CANAL. 

in the best style, and is entitled to the most liberal pat- 
ronage. 

West Rock is 2 miles north-west of New-Haven. It 

is the southern extremity of the east ridge of the Green 
Mountains, and is a perpendicular bluff fronting the 
south^ 400 feet in height. The village of Hotchkisstown 
is at its foot. The cave in which the regicide judges, 
Whalley and Goffe, secreted themselv^ for three or 
four years, {see p. 352,) is on the summit of the rock, 
about a mile north of the bluff The cave is formed by 
the crevices between several large rocks, apparently 
thrown together by some convulsion, and is entirely 
above ground. Near the top of one of the rocks is this 
inscription : " Opposition to tyrants is obedience to 
God." During the continuance of the regicides at this 
place, they were furnished daily with food by a family 
who resided near the foot of the mountain. 

East Rock is 2 miles north east of New-Haven, and is 
the southern termination of the Mount Tom range of 
mountains. It is 370 feet high ; and from its top a fine 
view is had of New-Haven, its harbor, the Sound and 
Long Island. It was for some years the residence of a 
hormit, who was found dead in his habitation a few 
years since. 

The Farmington Canal, which was originally commen- 
ced at the north line of the state, terminates at New- 
Haven — distance 58 miles, lockage 218 feet. This ca- 
nal has since been extended to Northampton, Mass. 
between 20 and 30 miles farther; and a branch has 
been constiiicted from Farmington up the Farmington 
river, to New-Hartford, 15 miles. 

The towns bordering on the Sound, near New-Ha- 
ven, are visited in the summer months by numerous 



FROM NEW-HAVEN TO NEW YORK. 419 

invalids for the benefit of the sea breeze and a salubri- 
ous climate. Among these towns, Guilford, 15 miles 
east of New-Haven, is generally preferred. It has two 
harbors, is a place of considerable trade, and is con- 
stantly supplied with the best of oysters, lobsters and 
fish, taken in and near the harbors. 

Steam Boats ply between New-Haven and New- York 
daily, leaving the former place at 8 P. M. and the latter 
at 7 A. M. The passage is generally performed in 8 or 
9 hours. Fare $2. 

Stages leave Nej(\^Haven daily, for Hartford, Boston, 
Albany, and New- York. Distance to Hartford 40 miles, 
fare, ,$2; to Boston, 136 miles, fare $7,50 ; to Albany, 
1 10 miles, fare §7 ; to New- York, 86 miles, fare $4.* 



* This route is usually performed in 12 or 14 hours, 
and the intervening" places and distances are as follows : 



Miles. 

wStratford, 13 

Bridgeport, 3 

Fairfield, 5 

Norwalk, 10* 



Miles. 

Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harlaem, 30 

New- York, 8 



Bridgeport is handsomely situated on both banks 
of the Pughquonnuck river. The village contains a 
bank and two churches. 

Fairfield is a port of entry on Lon^* Island Sound, 
containing a court house, academy, several churches, 
and a population of about 2000. It was on a low level 
piece of ground, which is seen on the left side of the 
road about a mile and a half after leaving the village, 
that the remnant of the Pequot tribe of Indians, after 
the destruction of their fort by Capt. Mason at Mystic, 
(see p. 401,) were either killed or captured. The bat- 
tle was severe and bloody, and some reliques of arms 
used in the contest are at this day occasionally found 
by the inhabitants, ll2 



420 FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 

FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 

A stage leaves New-Haven daily for Litchfield, pass- 
ing through Watcrbury and Watertown — distance 38 
miles. 

Passing West Rock, (see p. 418,) and proceeding 
from thence for a considerable distance in a northerly 
direction, through a beautiful valley, having on its right 
a lofty rocky barrier, with rude perpendicular precipi- 
ces, Beacon Mountaiii is reached in travelling 14 miles 
from New-Haven. This mountain is a ridge of almost 
naked rock stretching to the south-west. " The road, 
which is formed in the natural gap of the mountain* 
here winds through a bold gulf or defile, so narrow, 
that at one place only a gingle carriage can pass at 
once. On both sides, the clifts are lofty, particularly 
on the left ; and on the right, a little distance from the 
road, they overhang in a frightful manner." Beyond 
this gap, the road turns more to the left, running along 
a rivulet ; and after three or four miles, on rising an 
eminence, the Naugatuck, a branch of the Housatonic 



NoRWALK is on the Sound, and is a pleasant village, 
containing an academy and 3 churches. 

West Chester County, which is entered in a few 
miles after leaving Greenwich, and which was " neu- 
tral ground" during the revolutionary war, was selected 
by Mr. Cooper, the novelist, as the principal sctne of 
his " Spy." 

At HoRSENECK, 33 miles from N. York, the traveller 
is shown the steep down which Gen. Putnam descend- 
ed on horse-back during the revolution. 

At Harlaem, S miles fiom New- York, the road pass- 
es near the East river, afibrding the traveller a view of 
Hurl Gate. (See/>. 106.) 



LITCHFIELD. 421 

river, is discovered. It runs through a deep and nar- 
row gulf, which is seen from the road. 

Watertown, 26 miles from New-Haven, is on a 
commanding hill, and is a beautiful little village, con- 
taining two churches. 

Litchfield is on a handsome eminence, and is con- 
sidered one of the most pleasant villages in the state. 
The principal street extends more than a mile in 
length, and contains a collection of neat houses, adorn- 
ed with gardens and court yards. Among the public 
buildings are a court house, jail, bank, and 2 churches. 
There is also at this place a young ladies' school, which 
has obtained much celebrity ; and a distinguished law 
school, established in 1784 by the late Tapping Reeve, 
and now under the charge of the Hon. James Gould. 
The number of students educated at this institution 
since its establishment is between 6 and 700. 

Mount Tom, near the south-west corner of this town, 
is 700 feet above the river at its base, and affords from 
its top an extensive prospect. 

The Great Pond, in Litchfield, comprises an area of 
about 900 acres, is the largest in the state, and is a 
beautiful sheet of water, affording at its outlet a num- 
ber of valuable mill seats. 

A Chalybeate Spring has been discovered within a 
few years, on the east side of Mount Prospect, four 
miles west of the village of Litchfield. It issues from 
an extensive bed of sulphuret of iron, and is copious 
and perennial, exhibiting in its course much oxide of 
iron, ochre, and a white deposit. 

Mount Prospect, is a rocky, wood clad, elevated ridge, 
of two miles extent. From its summit an interesting 



422 FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 

and diversified view is presented of villages and lakes, 
and of a well cultivated, healthy country. 

From Litchfield, a stage may be taken daily, passing 
through East Goshen, Norfolk, Canaan, Shefiiield, 
Great Barrington, West Stockbridge, Chatham, Nas- 
sau, Schodack and Greenbush to Albany, and reaching 
the latter place in about 24 hours. Distance 72 miles 
— fare $4. This is the most direct route, also, from 
Litchfield to Saratoga Springs ; but, to make the tour 
of New-England more complete, it is recommended Jo 
proceed from Litchfield to Hartford, and from thence 
up the beautiful valley of the Connecticut river, which is 
variegated with villages and country seats, and pre- 
sents some of the finest scenery on the continent. 

FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 

A stage may be taken at Litchfield on Tuesday, 
Thursday and Saturday at 8 A. M, passing through 
Harwinton, Burlington and Farmington, and reaching 
Hartford at 3 P. M. Distance 30 miles — fare $2. 

Harwinton is a small village, 7 miles from Litch- 
field, on the Naugatuck river. 

Burlington, 7 miles. 

Farmington, 6 miles. This is a pleasant village, lo- 
cated on the Farmington river, which, after leaving the 
Anllage, takes a northerly course for 1 5 miles, where it 
is joined by the Salmon river. It then turns to the 
south-east, passing between lofty mountains and de- 
scends a cataract of 150 feet ; after which it is called 
the Windsor riVer, and joins the Connecticut 4 miles 
above Hartford. Farmington contams 3 churches and 
a population of between 2 and 3000. [For a notico of 



ROUTE UP THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 423 

the Farmington canal, which passes through this place, 
see page 418.] 

Hartford, 10 miles. (See p. 407.) 

ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF CONNECTICUT 
RIVER. 

Stages run daily between Hartford, Conn, and Han- 
over, N. H. up the Connecticut river, as noticed at 
page 411. Passing through East Hartford, {see p^ 
40^^,) the first village reached is 

Windsor, 7 miles from Hartford, located on the west 
bank of the river. Settlements were commenced at 
this place, as well as at Hartford, in 1633. 

Enfield, 9 miles. A canal has been recently con- 
structed around the falls at this place, of sufficient di- 
mensions to receive steam-boats ; and they now pass 
as far up as Springfield without difficulty, and, except 
in very low water, for a considerable distance above 
Windsor, Vt. This canal commences at the head of 
the Falls, by a wing dam 700 feet long, which reaches 
to the middle of the river. From the lower end of the 
wing dam a pier extends down 200 feet parallel to and 
100 feet from the west bank, and is raised above the 
river so as to form a basin and safe entrance to the 
Grand Lock. At right angles to this pier, a breast wall 
of solid masonry, strengthened by butresses, extends 
70 feet towards the bank, and is there united to the 
grand lock. This and the breast wall are 16 feet 
higher than the surface of the water in the canal, pre- 
senting a firm defence against the highest floods. The 
breat wall covers twelve sluices, with sliding gates," for 
the free admission of water for hydrauUc purposes. 
The river banks are generally high and rocky, for about 



424 SUFFIELD. 

three miles below the grand lock, and the canal is 
formed by an embankment of earth raised in the bed of 
the river, and protected on the outside by a stone wall. 
Two miles below the guard lock, Mill brook crosses 
the line of the canal, and is passed by an aqueduct of 
90 feet long and 60 feet wide, having six piers and 
abutments of substantial masonry. The height of the 
artificial embankment increases gradually, as it passes 
down the river, until it rises to a perpendicular eleva- 
tion of 25 feet, when the high river bank retires to the 
west, and the canal is carried about two miles over land 
to its termination below the falls. Here are three locks 
of masonry of ten feet lift each. The locks are sepa- 
rated by pools 50 feet wide, in Avhich ascending and 
descending boats may pass each other, and avoid the 
detention which is unavoidable where several locks are 
combined in a connected line. The dimensions of the 
locks are 90 feet by 20 in the clear, and they are cal- 
culated to have four feet depth of" water. The depth 
of the canal varies from four to twenty feet. The aver- 
age width, at the surface of the water, is about seventy 
feet, and the total length five and a half miles. 

SuFFiELD, 1 mile from Enfield, on the west bank of 
the river, is a beautiful town. The village, which is on 
an eminence about a mile west of the river road, is 
composed principally of one street, half a mile in ex- 
tent. The houses, with their handsome gardens and 
yards, present a picturesque and elegant appearance. 
A sulphur spring, a mile or two southwest of the vil- 
lage, is a place of some resort by invalids. 

West Springfield, 9 miles, is located on the west 
bank of the Connecticut river, and contains several 



SPRINGFIELD. 425 

handsome private dwellings. A bridge here crosses 
the river, connecting the place with 

Springfield, on the opposite side ; which is a large 
and handsome village. The houses are principally lo- 
cated at the foot of a hill ; on the west side of which 
are several elegant residences, and on the summit a 
U. S. arsenal. The village contains a court house, jail, 
two churches, and several manufactories. 

The huildings composing the arsenal on the heights, 
occupy a large square, and are surrounded by a high 
wall. They are mostly built of brick and present a 
magnificent appearance. About 13,000 "muskets are 
manufactured here annually. The water works em- 
ployed for the purpose are on Mill river, a mile south 
of the arsenal. 

Springfield became the theatre of savage barbarity 
during Philip's war in 1675. The towns still further up 
the river had, for some time previous, suffered severely 
from repeated Indian incursions. But the Springfield 
tribe had thus far remained quiet ; and it was not till 
the month of October of this year, that Philip could 
succeed by his artifices, to enlist them in his favor. On 
the night of the 4th, it was ascertained by means of a 
friendly Indian, that 300 of the tribe had suddenly and 
secretly assembled at a fort on Long Hill, about a mile 
below the village. Thi§ intelligence produced much 
consternation among the inhabitants ; and they im- 
mediately repaired to their fortified houses. No dis- 
turbance, however, occuring in the night, hopes were 
entertained that hostilities were not intended on the 
part of the Indians. Lieut. Cooper, the commandant 
of the place, and another, accordingly resolved on re- 
pairing to the fort, for the purpose of dissipating the 



456 SOUTH HADLEY FALLS. 

fears that still existed among the inhabitants. Having 
reached the small stream at the lower part of the vil" 
lage, Cooper and his companion were shot by Indians 
who were concealed in the woods. This seemed to be 
a signal for attack; as the whole body immediately 
rushed into the town with a horrid yell, and set fire to 
the unfortified dwellings, and barns. The whole wer§ 
soon enveloped in flames and consumed. During this 
period, a fire was kept up from the fortified houses up- 
on the Indians, and several killed ; but it was not till 
they had destroyed 32 dwellings and nearly as many 
barns, and plundered every thing within their reach, 
that they withdrew. A brick house standing at the 
time of this catastrophe, is still in tolerable preservation. 

During the rebellion of Shays, in 1786, the armoury 
at this place was attacked by him. But he M'as repuls- 
ed, with the loss of a few men ; and his followers sub- 
sequently dispersed. 

Pursuing the course of the river on the west side, 
over a beautiful country, 

South Hadlet Falls are reached in going 12 miles 
from Springfield. The river here descends in the dis- 
tance of two and a half miles, 52 feet ; and on the east 
side, commencing at South Hadley village, a canal has 
been constructed, corresponding in extent with these 
falls, through which lumber and the largest boats pass. 

Previous to reaching Northampton, the river, (in 
which there is an abrupt turn,) passes between Mount 
Tom on the south, and Mount Holyoke {see p. 348) on 
the north. North of the latter mountain, a most charm- 
ing and extensive plain is presented, embracing many 
elegant villages and country seats. 



MUDDY BROOK. 427 

Northampton, 5 miles from Soutli Hadlcy. (See p, 
S47.) 
Hadlet, 2 miles east of Northampton. {Seep, 351.) 

Hatfield, 5 miles north of Northampton, on the 
west side of the river, is a neat and venerable town, 
having been settled as early as 1658. In October, 1675, 
after the burning of Springfield, (see p. 425,) the Indi- 
ans under Philip, flushed with their repeated successes, 
made an attack on Hatfield ; which was then defended 
by two companies, aided by a third, which came to 
their relief during the conflict. The Indians were about 
700 strong, and made a furious assault upon the town 
in various directions, pillaging and burning several of 
the houses. But they were defeated, and compelled to 
seek safety in a precipitate flight. 

On the 30th of May of the following year, another 
attack was made upon Hatfield by 600 Indians. Twelve 
unfortified buildings were immediately burnt ; but the 
others, which were pallisaded, were defended by a few 
inhabitants. Part of the Indians then repaired to the 
fields, and attacked the men at their labor ; but 25 
young men crossed the river from Hadley, and rushing 
upon the Indians, killed several, and finally, with the 
aid of the inhabitants, dispersed them. 

Muddy Brook, 9 miles from Hatfield, is a small vil- 
lage, deriving its name from a stream which passes 
through the place, bordered by a narrow morass. The 
place in 1675, and for some time subsequent, was call- 
ed Bloody Brook, in consequence of a battle which was 
fought with the Indians on the 18th of September of 
that year. Capt. Lothrop, who had been despatched 

MM 



42b MUDDY BROOK. 

with 80 men and several teams, to secure a quantity of 
wheat in Deerfield, two or three miles further nortli, 
was surprised on his return through this place, by a 
party of 700 Indians, wlio had secretly watched his 
movements, and who lay in ambush awaiting his ar- 
rival. He had no sooner crossed the small stream 
above mentioned, than they rushed upon him, pouring 
in such a deadly fire as to produce complete discomfit- 
ure. Lothrop and his men fied ; but being pursued 
and overtaken at all points, they resolved to sell their 
lives in a vigorous struggle. They accordingly posted 
themselves behind the neighboring trees ; when the 
oenflict became a trial of skill in sharp shooting. At 
length the struggle terminated in the annihilation of 
nearly the whole of the English. Lothrop was killed in 
the early part of the action ; and his loss, including 
teamsters, amounted to ninety. The troops at Deer- 
fieldj under Captain Mosely, hearing the musketry, 
hastened to the scene of combat, and arrived soon af- 
ter its close. They found the Indians stripping the 
slain. Mosely improving the favorable opportunity, 
rushed upon them, cutting them down in all directions, 
and driving the remainder into the adjacent swamps. 
The next morning, it was found that a few Indians had 
returned to the field of battle for the purpose of plun- 
der ; but they were soon dispersed. 

Though the loss of the enemy on the previous day 
was estimated at about 100, the engagement was, nev- 
ertheless, more disastrous in its consequences to the 
Enghsh. The destruction of 90 valuable men, the 
flower of a thinly scattered population, was calculated 
to produce much despondency, and occasion the most 



DEERFIELD. 429 

serious apprehensions for the safety of the remaining 
colonists. 

The place where this battle \^fe fought, is near the 
centre of the village, about 30 rods south of the church. 
The bridge over the stream is located at the place 
where Lothrop crossed. Some remains of a coarse 
monument once erected here are still visible. 

Deerfield, 3 miles from Muddy Brook, and 17 
miles north of Northampton, is a handsome village on 
the west bank of the Connecticut river. It is in the 
midst of a very fertile and beautiful country, presenting 
a succession of rich and highly cultivated farms. The 
town was among the early settlements on the river ; 
and, more than any other place, was the theatre of In- 
dian warfare. In September, 1675, an attack was made 
on the place, one man killed and several houses redu- 
ced to ashes. For about 20 years subsequent to this, 
owing to repeated incursions of the savages, the inhab- 
itants were often compelled to abandon their dwellings 
and seek a temporary asylum in the neighboring towns. 
During the French wars under William and Anne, how- 
ever, they maintained their ground until 1704 ; made 
many improvements and enclosed the centre of the vil- 
lage by an extensive but imperfect pallisaded work. 
This fortification was attacked by about 350 French 
and Indians in the month of February of that year. 
They had secretly taken a position two miles north of 
the village on the evening of the 9th ; from whence 
they cautiously proceeded to the fort the next morning 
lefore day. There being no sentinels posted, the for- 
fication was easily entered, and the work of destruc- 

n commenced ere the inhabitants had aroused from 

!ir slumbers. A feeble resistance, only, could be 



430 GREENFIELD. 

made. All the houses, except one, \\'ithin the palli- 
sades, were burnt ; between 40 and 50 of the inhabi- 
tants were killed, andfl[12, including women and chil- 
dren made prisoners. In the drear of winter, with a 
scanty supply of provisions, and with little clothing, 
the unfortunate captives were compelled to take up 
their line of march for Canada. Mr. Williams, the cler- 
gyman of the place, and his family, were of the number. 
His wife* was murdered in two or three days after 
commencing the excursion ; and sixteen others either 
died or were massacred before reaching the Province. 
Most of those who survived, after remaining in captivi- 
ty for some time, were redeemed. A daughter of Mr. 
WiUiams, however, who had married an Indian chief, 
refused to return. She assumed the habiliment of a 
savage, and died in Canada some years afterwards. 
Several of her descendants are still living there. 

The house which survived the conflagration at Deer- 
field is still standing, and is owned by Col. Elihu Hoyt. 
It is in a tolerable state of preservation, and exhibits to 
this day the perforation made in the door by toma- 
hawks, as well as the marks of balls in the interior. 
One of these marks is shown, as having been made by 
a ball which killed a female in the house ; and in one 
of the timbers a bullet is seen, which has never been 
extracted. 

Greenfield, 4 miles frqm Deerfield, is a large and 
pleasant village, on the west side of the river ; from 
which it is distant 2 miles. It contains a court house, 



* She was afterwards, with h'^r hu?band, interred in 
the church-yard at Deerfield j and marble slabs placed 
over their graves. 



turner's falls. 431 

jail, bank and 3 churches. It is a central position for 
the trade of the surrounding country ; and is a place of 
wealth and enterprise. A young Ladies^ Seminary at 
this place is beautifully located and under excellent 
regulations. 

Turner's Falls, on the Connecticut river, are 3 
miles from Greenfield, in a north-easterly direction. 
The road taken in visiting them is east of the ordinary 
stage route ; and it is customary, therefore, after an ex- 
cursion to the falls, to return to Greenfield. The route 
is principally over the gi'ound taken by Capt. Turner, 
in his attack on the Indians in 1676. Thfe fall is be- 
tween forty and fifty feet ; but by the erection of a dam 
for the accommodation of a canal, the cataract has 
lost much of its original wildness. 

The Indians, amounting to several hundreds, having 
taken a position on elevated ground, on the west bank 
of the river at the head of the fall, it was deemed im- 
portant to dislodge them. This service was undertak- 
en by Capt. Turner, at the head of about 160 mounted 
troops. He left Hatfield on the 17th of May, 1676, 
and reached within half a mile of the Indian encamp- 
ment before day the next morning, without discovery. 
Here his men left their horses, and by a rapid march, 
reached the camp before the Indians awoke from their 
slumbers. A deadly and destructive fire was immedi- 
ately commenced. Believing it to proceed from their 
ancient and powerful enemy the Mohawks, many of 
the Indians fled to the river, and leaped into their ca- 
noes ; but in attempting to cross, they were mostly 
shot or precipitated over the cataract. Others fled to 
the rocks of the river bank, where they were cut down, 
without resistance ; and few escaped the victorious 



432 

arm of the assailants. One hundred were left dead on 
the field ; one hundred and forty were seen to descend 
the cataract ; and their whole loss was afterwards as- 
certained to have been 300. Turner lost but one man. 
In his retreat, he was less fortunate. He was at- 
tacked by other parties of Indians on the route — his 
men divided — himself killed ; and the loss of his party, 
before they reached Hatfield, amounted to between 30 
and 40. Capt. T. is supposed to have fallen in what 
is called Greenfield Meadow, at the mouth of a small 
stream on which a mill now stands ; as his body was 
afterwards found at that place by a scouting party of 
the English. 

Bernardstown, 5 miles north of Greenfield. 

Vernon, 6 miles : the first town reached in entering 
the state of Vermont. Fort Dummer, built to protect 
the inhabitants against the Indians, was located at this 
place. 

Guilford, 5 miles. Here are two slate quarries and 
several mills and manufactories. 

Brattleborough, 6 miles, a flourishing village, is 
located on the west bank of the Connecticut river ; 
over which there is a permanent bridge. White stone 
creek also passes through the place, affording a num- 
ber of good mill sites. The village contains a bank, 
the most extensive printing establishment in the state, 
and several manufactories. Stages pass daily between 
this place and Boston, Hartford, Albany and Hanover. 

DuMMERSTON, 5 milcs. 

Putney, 6 miles. 

Westminster, 5 miles. The first newspaper printed in 
Vermont was issued from a press at this place ; though 



CHARLESTOWN. 433 

k was discontinued several years since for want of pat- 
ronage. The village is located on a beautiful plain on 
the west bank of the Connecticut ; but it has not im- 
proved much within the last twenty years. 

Walpole, N. H. to which a bridge leads, is on the 
opposite side of the river, and is noticed at page 325. 

Bellows Falls, on the Vermont side, 4 miles from 
Walpole. (See p. 324:.) Proceeding up the river over 
a beautiful plain, 

Charlestown, N. H. is reached in travelling 8 miles 
from Bellows Falls. It is handsomely located on the 
east side of the river, and is a neat village, containing a 
court house, jail and bank. 

A fort was built for the defence of this place in 1743, 
on rising ground south of the church, over which the 
present street passes. In March, 1747, while the fort 
was occupied by Capt. Stevens and thirty men, a furi- 
ous assault was made upon it by a large body of French 
and Indians, under the command of M. Debeline. The 
fort being composed of materials which were combusti- 
ble, the enemy attempted its destruction, by setting a 
log house and the fences to the windward on fire. To 
guard against a conflagration, the besieged through 
great exertions, succeeded in making several subterra- 
nean passages under the parapet, with an opening at 
the top of each. From these passages, which were 
deep enough to protect the men fi-om the enemy's shot, 
water, taken from a well within the fort, was thrown 
upon the parapet, and the plan of the enemy frustrated. 
A sort of mantelet, loaded with dry faggots, set on fire, 
was then forced towards the fort, accompanied with 
flaming arrows ; but all to no purpose. Stevens main- 
tained his position, continued a fire upon the enemy 



434 HANOVER. 

whenever he presented himself, and refused all proposi*^ 
tions of a surrender. After an assault of three days, 
and suffering severely in the loss of his men, Debeline 
withdrew from the siege. None of Stevens' men were 
killed, and but two wounded. 

For this brave defence, Sir Charles Knowles, com- 
mandant of a naval force then in Boston harbor, sent 
Capt. Stevens an elegant sword. The town was sub- 
sequently named in honor of Sir Charles. 

From Charlestown, a stage may be taken daily for 
Saratoga Springs, passing through Chester, Manches- 
ter, &c. ; or for Boston, passing through Walpole, 
Keene, &c. ( See p. 323 to 32S.) 

Springfield, Vt. on the west side of the river, 5 
miles from Charlestown. 

Weathersfield, 6 miles ; a fine agricultural town- 
ship. Jarvis' farm, at what is termed Weathersfield 
Bow (a turn in the river) is considered one of the best 
in Vermont. 

Windsor, 7 miles. (iSee^j. 332.) 

Hartland, 7 miles. 

Hartford, 7 miles. There are two handsome vil- 
lages in this town ; one near the junction of the White 
river, and the other near the junction of the Queechy 
river with the Connecticut. In both there are several 
mills and manufactories. From Hartford, the river is 
crossed to 

Hanover, (noticed at p. 333,) from which a stage 
may be taken three times a week for Burlington, Vt. or 
Boston. 

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